Good luck, were all waiting to see this slip when you hit the track. I say..... 11's............

 

I've been wanting to put the factory flywheel back in but I just don't have the energy. If the turbo piping wasnt there it would take an after noon, but now its too much dang work. I'll put up with the chatter.

 

I hope you're talking about street tires. Although it will probably take some getting use to with having all this new power. It probably won't be easy to launch on the street tires. He's definitely going to need to use slicks.

 

Subscribing to all the good info and good luck at the track....

 

Any updates? And, I really don't want to hear how you're trading your max for a 76 Gremlin...

I'm really curious to know if you've crushed the 11.5 yet.

 

Did you miss the part where he said he broke at the drag strip a week ago?

 

George isn't too bright....

 

Well I discovered that I mistakely put an extra shim in the main shaft assembly the last time I assembled the trans. So I am replacing the main shaft bearings.

Im also fixing little things, like replacing the nitrous solinoid on my purge line, had a small leak in the nitrous likewhere a hose end went bad, got some heat wrap for the intake pipe that crosses over the front of the car. I hope to be back at the track this Wednesday night. I will try slicks this time, and maybe a 50-75 shot of nitrous

 

Take it EASY on the first few runs to shake her down man...

 

Quiet, you!

 

that cars too beautiful to be blowin nitrous thru man. its so stinken' fast to begin with! why not just strap a jet to the roof because that would be the same end result and alot less stuff to break!

 

All the parts came in and the trans is back together. I replaced both main shaft bearings. The exta shim that was in their was a real problem. It was on the bell housing side, the FSM shows no shim their. When I put it back together last time it was tight as heck, I had to use a vice grips to turn the input shaft. What a dumb a$$ I was, I should opend it up and checked. This time its as I remember my stock trans felt, loose enough to turn by hand in all gears, but gets tougher each gear up. I wonder what kind of power that was sucking off the motor? perhaps thats why my dyno from a while back was so bad. hmmmmm the clutch fork spring might have been a blessing in disguise? Install is tomorrow.

 

Hey...he had street tires on, so you know he wasn't going for broke.

 

Woohoo. Track this weekend?

 

i cant wait!!!!!!!!

 

he tried that and it didn't work too well

 

Well before I put the trans in I took the pressure plate off just to check the clutch disk. Interestingly enough the clutch disk was welded to the pressure plate and fly wheel by the leading edges of the ceramic/metalic pucks. I had to pry it off. It lifted a little of the material off each of the leading edged of the pucks on both sides. It left material burned into the pressure plate and fly wheel surface. I guess when it broke, the clutch disk was real hot and since it stopped in one place and stayed in one place this is what happend. I spoke to Clutchnet and they said they had never heard of this? (another first for MardiGrasMax!!!) My thought was to chip the material off the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces and smooth them out with emory cloth. Clutch net said this should work, lets hope so. It cleaned up OK. I'll have to post pictures of my old fly wheel, pressure plate and clutch disk so you can see what punder normal use, it looks rough, but held great. Im hoping this will just wear in and not be an issue. I should have it buttoned up tomorrow. I will pass on the slicks for the first runs again, just to be sure the clutch is holding. Since I wont be going to New Orleans for labor day I can aim to race Saturday, Sunday and a full day test and tune on Monday! Im trying to be ready for the Imstar event at MIR on 9/11.

 

Wow that's weird. I hope what you did to fix it works for you.

 

Guess we know you must be making a decent amount of power

 

Enough to put a stock C6 Z06 to shame.

 

I wouldn't claim that yet. MT tested the C6 Z06 in the 11s at 125. Another mag I saw stated 127 mph traps. I bet some hot shot driver on slicks could get a C6 Z06 real close to 10s bone stock. I am looking forward to seeing Mardi's times.

 

Ditto. Mardigrasmax

 

She's back. Didnt make it to the track last night, Im sorta worn out from thinking about the situation in New Orleans. I have Sunday and Monday scheduled as full on track days!

 

Subscribing. I want to see how this pans out.

 

What kind of boost are you planning to run?

 

16.5 with as much as a 100 shot

 

Why not more boost and less/no juice?

Is the N20 mainly to get you spooled?

 

I would think that and to keep temps down.

 

I've heard of people doing that, however if the purpose is to prevent detonation by lower charge air temps, at some point the increased flame propagation due to N20 causes detonation, so I wonder how that evens out in the end.

 

Since he leaves the line at full boost, ie 6000+rpm, I doubt spool up is really an issue.

 

I think turbo efficiency starts coming into play much past that boost level. As well as the spark blowing out.

 

I think he's got the spark taken care of now with the BAS and IIRC N20 blows out spark more then boost.

I think you nailed it...turbo efficiency is his main concern, however unless he's measuring the intake charge temps and knows for a fact it's dramatically rising above 16.5psi, I'd bet that 60-1 has more in it.

 

BTW Mardi...I found a GT35R for $1K brand new supposedly, however it has the 0.63 A/R T3 flange turbine housing.

Unless....you could find a cheap turbine housing and switch???

 

Mostly because of turbo efficiency. But what it also does is act like im adding timing back. We know the JWT ECU is conservative on timing, when I juice I dont plan to retard timing unless the J&S goes crazy. The day I ran the 11.5 with the 30 shot I didnt pull any timing and al was well. A 100shot might be a different story, but thats why the J&S (AKA motor saver) rules all! I think at least 2 degrees will need to be pulled. I plan on putting C16 in her for the 9/11 IMSTAR track day also.

Blu... why dont you and Matt come up that weekend. My wife will be outa town so you guys can chill here?

 

Good point...

Are you still running alcohol/water injection?

That will bring down the charge temps for when you push the turbo even further, however the slight octane bump won't matter with the C16.

 

Until I can get full control over the timing with a increased rev limit the alch/water injection is pretty much usless with the JWT ECU. If the AEM EMS comes out for the Z I think I will be golden.

 

The water alch/water injection would still cool the charge temps 20 or so degrees, right? Or are you saying it's useless since the N20 cools the charge?

You seen the prices on one of those AEM units with all the necessary harnesses and crap? $2500+ at least, right?

Anyways, per the FSM at least the FWD VQ35s and RWD VQ35s have different crank signals. I'd be willing to bet Greddy will have the EU working for VQ30s crank signal before AEM will.

 

Which track are you going to?

 

Unless you can advance the timing the cooler temps dont help because that gain is offset by water in the combustion chamber. Every time I run it, I run sower than with out it.

AEM EMS should be ~$1500

EU still does not do the revlimit increase?

Will be at Maryland International Raceway in Buds Creek MD.

 

Good to know...thanks.

EU should be able to raise the rev-limit, but nobody has tried. I might try it this weekend, if everything goes right.

I'm more concerned about being able to advance the timing on the EU, then raise the limiter. Then again, I can always have TS just advance the whole timing curve, say 10-15degrees for race gas, and then I'll just pull what I can't use. Temp fix until Greddy gets around to us other VQs.