Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

Low Boost...HELP NEEDED!!

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Old 05-17-2005, 03:27 PM
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Low Boost...HELP NEEDED!!

Please help me!! I have the 3.25'' pulley my SC'er, which is supposed to put out 9-10psi right? Well today I went to get my SAFC hooked up and dyno tuned, and I the results were nowhere close to where I thought they should be. So, I asked the guy what kind of boost he saw while doing the dyno and he said around .3 bars, which to my knowledge is lower than the STOCK(3.6) pulley is supposed to produce. I prolly should have noticed before this but I have been taking it easy for awhile and not ever trying to reach full boost. Then I explained how much boost I am supposed to be putting out and knew we had a problem. I asked the mechanic to check for leaks, but he found none. However, he thinks there is something wrong with the supercharger itself because of a wierd rattle and you can feel it when you touch it while the car is idling. He tried contacting techs at Stillen but the guy was "out to lunch" and I havent heard back yet. Can ANYONE give me some input, because I am bumming bigtime. Thanks...
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Old 05-17-2005, 04:15 PM
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Sounds like
1. Loose belt
2. Boost leak

for 1, tighten belt 3/4 turn. go drive and see how it boosts. repeat steps until you see boost.

for 2, put some compressed air in and see if you hear a squeal anywhere. if you don't have a compressor, just use some brake cleaner and spray it around the couplings. if idle drops, then you have a leak

do yourself a favor and get some t-bolts.
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Old 05-17-2005, 04:43 PM
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Also another thing to consider is spraying the S/C housing down with soap water while the car is running. Look to places the soap appears to be sucked in...or rev the motor a few times and look for excessive bubbling. If S/C is leaking, you can usually send the S/C in to Vortech for rebuilding...which is fairly inexpensive from what I remember.

S
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Old 05-17-2005, 08:21 PM
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this is the response to you pm dude. i thought i would put it in public view if others have the same problem.

Originally Posted by dadiesel
I have a few more questions for you if you don't mind. I no almost nothing about my actual supercharger , so which bolt is it that I 3/4 turn? When I do turn it, and test it out, how many times do I continue to repeat the step if i don't see more boost? Next...do I spray the brake cleaner on the coupling that is hooked to the SC?...and what do you mean by if "idle drops"? Is that meaning that I have the car running at idle, then spray the brake cleaner on, and if I hear any drop than I have a leak? I ask because my idle is very low anyway. Sorry for the 20 questions...but I appreciate your help!

Zack
**** dude, im sorry. I should have explained more the first time, but i was at work and in a hurry. the bolt that i was talking about was the tensioner pulley. It is either a 12 or 14 mm deep socket. Its the gold bolt that is to the left of the supercharger. get extensions and a u joint extension to make it easier.

a loose belt is when you see boost start to build and then it goes down low, like to 3psi.

for the brake cleaner solution, you're right, you need to have the car running. if it starts to idle funny, thats what i mean by idle drops. my idle is usually around 600-620rpms and will drop to 560-580 when you spray brake cleaner on.

another way to tell a boost leak is when you hear a "screaming" noise at wot. you actually hear a whistle of the air leaking.

i hope that helps more than my original explanation.

i would also check where the intake air temperature sensor goes into the pipe. thats where mine leaked from. i used some hi-temp rtv on it. it has to cure for 24 hours though.
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Old 05-17-2005, 08:21 PM
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A rebuild from Vortech or Stillen normally runs about $600-700 from what I remember. Not cheap but I have seen worse. You can also get the SC upgraded to another trim or something.

But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
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Old 05-17-2005, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by h2kSPiG
A rebuild from Vortech or Stillen normally runs about $600-700 from what I remember. Not cheap but I have seen worse. You can also get the SC upgraded to another trim or something.

But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
Vortech is the ONLY place to get the blower rebuilt. DONT send it to Stillen, they will lauph.

A Complete rebuild (Bearings + Seals) is $328 if I remember. The price is nowhere near 6 or 700

-matt
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:35 PM
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Slimer----so where all should I spray the brake cleaner? When you say yours drops to 560-580 when you spray the cleaner on "it", do you mean the SC coupling, or all couplings throughout the SC piping. Also, tonight I got on it to about 100mph and when i got to the next stop sign my engine was making a wierd squeak almost like a bad belt, but it sounded like it was coming from the blower when I popped the hood. Guess I have some problem solving to do tomorrow . How long does the SC take to get rebuilt and come back from Vortech?
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Old 05-18-2005, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dadiesel
Slimer----so where all should I spray the brake cleaner? When you say yours drops to 560-580 when you spray the cleaner on "it", do you mean the SC coupling, or all couplings throughout the SC piping. Also, tonight I got on it to about 100mph and when i got to the next stop sign my engine was making a wierd squeak almost like a bad belt, but it sounded like it was coming from the blower when I popped the hood. Guess I have some problem solving to do tomorrow . How long does the SC take to get rebuilt and come back from Vortech?
you can spray it on all of the couplings/BOV. You can also use propane, if you have a little camping grill you can use the propane from that, and spray the gas around all of the couplings and BOV, if you have a leak the gas will be sucked into the intake trac, and it will cause the engine to race up very quickly. I don't know the answer to your question on the rebuild.
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by dadiesel
Slimer----so where all should I spray the brake cleaner? When you say yours drops to 560-580 when you spray the cleaner on "it", do you mean the SC coupling, or all couplings throughout the SC piping. Also, tonight I got on it to about 100mph and when i got to the next stop sign my engine was making a wierd squeak almost like a bad belt, but it sounded like it was coming from the blower when I popped the hood. Guess I have some problem solving to do tomorrow . How long does the SC take to get rebuilt and come back from Vortech?
what carson said. are you sure its from the blower or could it be from the belt?

if it is from the belt, tighten the tensioner and you're good to go.
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Old 05-18-2005, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by h2kSPiG
A rebuild from Vortech or Stillen normally runs about $600-700 from what I remember. Not cheap but I have seen worse. You can also get the SC upgraded to another trim or something.

But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
A rebuild to another Trim IE(T-trim) will cost upwards of $900 depending on what kind of hook up you have. Vortech does not offer discounts to shops on rebuilds like they do on the units themselves. Mine was $920ish IIRC and that was only a $30 markup. I believe the shop cost was $890 when I sent mine off for rebuild bc the owner of the shop showed me his cost sheets dealing with Vortech bc they are an authorized dealer. Just to rebuild and S-trim is approx $300 IIRC.
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Old 05-18-2005, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
A rebuild to another Trim IE(T-trim) will cost upwards of $900 depending on what kind of hook up you have. Vortech does not offer discounts to shops on rebuilds like they do on the units themselves. Mine was $920ish IIRC and that was only a $30 markup. I believe the shop cost was $890 when I sent mine off for rebuild bc the owner of the shop showed me his cost sheets dealing with Vortech bc they are an authorized dealer. Just to rebuild and S-trim is approx $300 IIRC.
This S-Trim is the one that comes with the Stillen kit right? How long does it take for them to rebuild and send it back to me, because this is my daily driver?
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Old 05-18-2005, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by slimer
what carson said. are you sure its from the blower or could it be from the belt?

if it is from the belt, tighten the tensioner and you're good to go.
I thought that if it were the belt, I would see a sudden drop in boost when I was increasing speed? I just don't see the full amount of boost that I am supposed to be putting out at with the 3.25" pulley at WOT, which is 9-10lbs (correct?). Also, when I put my ear up close to the blower I hear a low rattle-like hum sound. I dont remember my SC ever sounding like this before. My last question= I was reading on Vortechs website today and saw something that says we are supposed to "remove, inspect, and clean the oil inlet fitting to the supercharger every 3,000 miles". Does anyone do this, because this is the first time I've heard anything like that?
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by dadiesel
This S-Trim is the one that comes with the Stillen kit right? How long does it take for them to rebuild and send it back to me, because this is my daily driver?
can't ever tell with Vortech, it could be 2 weeks or it could be 2 months. You can drive the car without the blower without problems however.
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:10 AM
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I think your having the same problem i was having back when i had my 3.125. I was only reaching like 5 psi. The cause of my problem was a couple of leaks on the high pressure pipping and i had a oil leak from the oil drain back plate which caused oil to drip on the drive pulley and belt causing it to slip
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Old 05-19-2005, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by chris'smax
I think your having the same problem i was having back when i had my 3.125. I was only reaching like 5 psi. The cause of my problem was a couple of leaks on the high pressure pipping and i had a oil leak from the oil drain back plate which caused oil to drip on the drive pulley and belt causing it to slip
What is the high pressure piping? and how did you go about fixing this problem?
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Old 05-19-2005, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dadiesel
What is the high pressure piping? and how did you go about fixing this problem?

The piping that goes from the outlet of the blower to the throttle body. I detected the leaks by hand just feeling along all the connections. As for the the oil leak i just fixed the leak and cleaned off the drive pulley and got a new belt.

Bro you should seriously study up some on your setup and learn how your setup works because it will help you alot in the long run. I'm not saying you need to become a expert overnight but just start reading the supercharger install directions written by potatohed and start looking through the past pages in this forum. One night i popped a adderall to study and i ended up reading through almost every page. Needless to say i didn't do great on my test
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Old 05-19-2005, 06:29 AM
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Does your supercharger make a rattling noise when it idles though? When my car idles, there is a rattle-like noise that doesn't sound right, sort of like something is in there. Where do I get Potatohed's directions?
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Old 05-19-2005, 06:37 AM
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A few more questions I wanted to ask. When feeling around the connections, do you need to rev the engine or anything? Also, do I need to do anything special to check my oil inlet or or drain back plate?
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Old 05-19-2005, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by dadiesel
A few more questions I wanted to ask. When feeling around the connections, do you need to rev the engine or anything? Also, do I need to do anything special to check my oil inlet or or drain back plate?
to check if you have a oil leak all you need is a light colored drive way . As for the checking the leaks you can do it at idle. You should also hear a high pitch sound when reving it if you have a decent size leak.

My blower doesn't make any ratling sounds, but if yours is it deff sounds like it is time for a rebuild. Go ahead and get it upgraded to a t-trim
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:06 AM
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A few more questions for ya... Is the rebuild to a T-Trim worth the extra ~$600? With a light driveway I just let my car run for a bit and see if there is any oil underneath, correct? Also, a question I posted previously was, on Vortechs website I saw something that says we are supposed to "remove, inspect, and clean the oil inlet fitting to the supercharger every 3,000 miles". Any comments about this, like if you do it or if I should inspect mine for this problem (I never have before). Sorry for so many questions, and thanks for all the help so far .
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Old 05-20-2005, 11:50 AM
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bump....and I talked to a person from Vortech and explained about the noise my supercharger makes, and they said it sounds like bad bearings. If they are bad, could that be the reason for the missing boost or would it have a different effect?
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Old 05-22-2005, 12:03 PM
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iansw had that problem for a long time. didnt he have to send it back to vortech like 3 times?

that does sound like bad bearings, but it may be a leak in the compressor too.
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Old 05-22-2005, 04:23 PM
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how can you tell if you have a leak in the compressor
 
Old 05-22-2005, 06:57 PM
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by spraying the housing with soapy water.
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:49 AM
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ok so if i spray sopay water on the hosuin what should it do if its alright and if its bad?
 
Old 05-23-2005, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Nissan Shift
ok so if i spray sopay water on the hosuin what should it do if its alright and if its bad?
if it is leaking it will make bubbles....if its not leaking then it will not make bubbles
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by slimer
iansw had that problem for a long time. didnt he have to send it back to vortech like 3 times?

that does sound like bad bearings, but it may be a leak in the compressor too.
Either way does it have to be sent in?
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Old 05-23-2005, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by slimer
check where the intake air temperature sensor goes into the pipe. thats where mine leaked from. i used some hi-temp rtv on it. it has to cure for 24 hours though.
you too? i had to do the same thing.
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