Low Boost...HELP NEEDED!!
#1
Low Boost...HELP NEEDED!!
Please help me!! I have the 3.25'' pulley my SC'er, which is supposed to put out 9-10psi right? Well today I went to get my SAFC hooked up and dyno tuned, and I the results were nowhere close to where I thought they should be. So, I asked the guy what kind of boost he saw while doing the dyno and he said around .3 bars, which to my knowledge is lower than the STOCK(3.6) pulley is supposed to produce. I prolly should have noticed before this but I have been taking it easy for awhile and not ever trying to reach full boost. Then I explained how much boost I am supposed to be putting out and knew we had a problem. I asked the mechanic to check for leaks, but he found none. However, he thinks there is something wrong with the supercharger itself because of a wierd rattle and you can feel it when you touch it while the car is idling. He tried contacting techs at Stillen but the guy was "out to lunch" and I havent heard back yet. Can ANYONE give me some input, because I am bumming bigtime. Thanks...
#2
Sounds like
1. Loose belt
2. Boost leak
for 1, tighten belt 3/4 turn. go drive and see how it boosts. repeat steps until you see boost.
for 2, put some compressed air in and see if you hear a squeal anywhere. if you don't have a compressor, just use some brake cleaner and spray it around the couplings. if idle drops, then you have a leak
do yourself a favor and get some t-bolts.
1. Loose belt
2. Boost leak
for 1, tighten belt 3/4 turn. go drive and see how it boosts. repeat steps until you see boost.
for 2, put some compressed air in and see if you hear a squeal anywhere. if you don't have a compressor, just use some brake cleaner and spray it around the couplings. if idle drops, then you have a leak
do yourself a favor and get some t-bolts.
#3
Also another thing to consider is spraying the S/C housing down with soap water while the car is running. Look to places the soap appears to be sucked in...or rev the motor a few times and look for excessive bubbling. If S/C is leaking, you can usually send the S/C in to Vortech for rebuilding...which is fairly inexpensive from what I remember.
S
S
#4
this is the response to you pm dude. i thought i would put it in public view if others have the same problem.
**** dude, im sorry. I should have explained more the first time, but i was at work and in a hurry. the bolt that i was talking about was the tensioner pulley. It is either a 12 or 14 mm deep socket. Its the gold bolt that is to the left of the supercharger. get extensions and a u joint extension to make it easier.
a loose belt is when you see boost start to build and then it goes down low, like to 3psi.
for the brake cleaner solution, you're right, you need to have the car running. if it starts to idle funny, thats what i mean by idle drops. my idle is usually around 600-620rpms and will drop to 560-580 when you spray brake cleaner on.
another way to tell a boost leak is when you hear a "screaming" noise at wot. you actually hear a whistle of the air leaking.
i hope that helps more than my original explanation.
i would also check where the intake air temperature sensor goes into the pipe. thats where mine leaked from. i used some hi-temp rtv on it. it has to cure for 24 hours though.
Originally Posted by dadiesel
I have a few more questions for you if you don't mind. I no almost nothing about my actual supercharger
, so which bolt is it that I 3/4 turn? When I do turn it, and test it out, how many times do I continue to repeat the step if i don't see more boost? Next...do I spray the brake cleaner on the coupling that is hooked to the SC?...and what do you mean by if "idle drops"? Is that meaning that I have the car running at idle, then spray the brake cleaner on, and if I hear any drop than I have a leak? I ask because my idle is very low anyway. Sorry for the 20 questions...but I appreciate your help!
Zack
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Zack
a loose belt is when you see boost start to build and then it goes down low, like to 3psi.
for the brake cleaner solution, you're right, you need to have the car running. if it starts to idle funny, thats what i mean by idle drops. my idle is usually around 600-620rpms and will drop to 560-580 when you spray brake cleaner on.
another way to tell a boost leak is when you hear a "screaming" noise at wot. you actually hear a whistle of the air leaking.
i hope that helps more than my original explanation.
i would also check where the intake air temperature sensor goes into the pipe. thats where mine leaked from. i used some hi-temp rtv on it. it has to cure for 24 hours though.
#5
A rebuild from Vortech or Stillen normally runs about $600-700 from what I remember. Not cheap but I have seen worse. You can also get the SC upgraded to another trim or something.
But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
#6
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Originally Posted by h2kSPiG
A rebuild from Vortech or Stillen normally runs about $600-700 from what I remember. Not cheap but I have seen worse. You can also get the SC upgraded to another trim or something.
But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
A Complete rebuild (Bearings + Seals) is $328 if I remember. The price is nowhere near 6 or 700
-matt
#7
Slimer----so where all should I spray the brake cleaner? When you say yours drops to 560-580 when you spray the cleaner on "it", do you mean the SC coupling, or all couplings throughout the SC piping. Also, tonight I got on it to about 100mph and when i got to the next stop sign my engine was making a wierd squeak almost like a bad belt, but it sounded like it was coming from the blower when I popped the hood. Guess I have some problem solving to do tomorrow
. How long does the SC take to get rebuilt and come back from Vortech?
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#8
Originally Posted by dadiesel
Slimer----so where all should I spray the brake cleaner? When you say yours drops to 560-580 when you spray the cleaner on "it", do you mean the SC coupling, or all couplings throughout the SC piping. Also, tonight I got on it to about 100mph and when i got to the next stop sign my engine was making a wierd squeak almost like a bad belt, but it sounded like it was coming from the blower when I popped the hood. Guess I have some problem solving to do tomorrow
. How long does the SC take to get rebuilt and come back from Vortech?
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#9
Originally Posted by dadiesel
Slimer----so where all should I spray the brake cleaner? When you say yours drops to 560-580 when you spray the cleaner on "it", do you mean the SC coupling, or all couplings throughout the SC piping. Also, tonight I got on it to about 100mph and when i got to the next stop sign my engine was making a wierd squeak almost like a bad belt, but it sounded like it was coming from the blower when I popped the hood. Guess I have some problem solving to do tomorrow
. How long does the SC take to get rebuilt and come back from Vortech?
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
if it is from the belt, tighten the tensioner and you're good to go.
#10
Originally Posted by h2kSPiG
A rebuild from Vortech or Stillen normally runs about $600-700 from what I remember. Not cheap but I have seen worse. You can also get the SC upgraded to another trim or something.
But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
But before we assume it is the blower try to see if there isn't a loose connection or vaccum line.
#11
Originally Posted by blubyu2k2
A rebuild to another Trim IE(T-trim) will cost upwards of $900 depending on what kind of hook up you have. Vortech does not offer discounts to shops on rebuilds like they do on the units themselves. Mine was $920ish IIRC and that was only a $30 markup. I believe the shop cost was $890 when I sent mine off for rebuild bc the owner of the shop showed me his cost sheets dealing with Vortech bc they are an authorized dealer. Just to rebuild and S-trim is approx $300 IIRC.
#12
Originally Posted by slimer
what carson said. are you sure its from the blower or could it be from the belt?
if it is from the belt, tighten the tensioner and you're good to go.
if it is from the belt, tighten the tensioner and you're good to go.
#13
Originally Posted by dadiesel
This S-Trim is the one that comes with the Stillen kit right? How long does it take for them to rebuild and send it back to me, because this is my daily driver?
#14
I think your having the same problem i was having back when i had my 3.125. I was only reaching like 5 psi. The cause of my problem was a couple of leaks on the high pressure pipping and i had a oil leak from the oil drain back plate which caused oil to drip on the drive pulley and belt causing it to slip
![bonk](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bonk.gif)
#15
Originally Posted by chris'smax
I think your having the same problem i was having back when i had my 3.125. I was only reaching like 5 psi. The cause of my problem was a couple of leaks on the high pressure pipping and i had a oil leak from the oil drain back plate which caused oil to drip on the drive pulley and belt causing it to slip ![bonk](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bonk.gif)
![bonk](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bonk.gif)
#16
Originally Posted by dadiesel
What is the high pressure piping? and how did you go about fixing this problem?
The piping that goes from the outlet of the blower to the throttle body. I detected the leaks by hand just feeling along all the connections. As for the the oil leak i just fixed the leak and cleaned off the drive pulley and got a new belt.
Bro you should seriously study up some on your setup and learn how your setup works because it will help you alot in the long run. I'm not saying you need to become a expert overnight but just start reading the supercharger install directions written by potatohed and start looking through the past pages in this forum. One night i popped a adderall to study and i ended up reading through almost every page. Needless to say i didn't do great on my test
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#17
Does your supercharger make a rattling noise when it idles though? When my car idles, there is a rattle-like noise that doesn't sound right, sort of like something is in there. Where do I get Potatohed's directions?
#18
A few more questions I wanted to ask. When feeling around the connections, do you need to rev the engine or anything? Also, do I need to do anything special to check my oil inlet or or drain back plate?
#19
Originally Posted by dadiesel
A few more questions I wanted to ask. When feeling around the connections, do you need to rev the engine or anything? Also, do I need to do anything special to check my oil inlet or or drain back plate?
![ThumbsUp](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
My blower doesn't make any ratling sounds, but if yours is it deff sounds like it is time for a rebuild. Go ahead and get it upgraded to a t-trim
![ThumbsUp](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#20
A few more questions for ya... Is the rebuild to a T-Trim worth the extra ~$600? With a light driveway I just let my car run for a bit and see if there is any oil underneath, correct? Also, a question I posted previously was, on Vortechs website I saw something that says we are supposed to "remove, inspect, and clean the oil inlet fitting to the supercharger every 3,000 miles". Any comments about this, like if you do it or if I should inspect mine for this problem (I never have before). Sorry for so many questions, and thanks for all the help so far
.
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#21
bump....and I talked to a person from Vortech and explained about the noise my supercharger makes, and they said it sounds like bad bearings. If they are bad, could that be the reason for the missing boost or would it have a different effect?
#26
Originally Posted by Nissan Shift
ok so if i spray sopay water on the hosuin what should it do if its alright and if its bad?
#27
Originally Posted by slimer
iansw had that problem for a long time. didnt he have to send it back to vortech like 3 times?
that does sound like bad bearings, but it may be a leak in the compressor too.
that does sound like bad bearings, but it may be a leak in the compressor too.
#28
Originally Posted by slimer
check where the intake air temperature sensor goes into the pipe. thats where mine leaked from. i used some hi-temp rtv on it. it has to cure for 24 hours though.
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