http://69.57.150.24/showthread.php?t=404476

 

Ewwww...that is not good.

I got the same type of thing going on, the noise at least. Been doing it since before I was boosted though. I know exactly the type of noise your refering to. Car still shifts great though, no problem there. And I don't have a leak at the axel. I did back before I got my shims fixed though.

 

may not be boost related but with all those shavings and a grinding noise theres definitly a problem only a rebiuld will solve

 

I didn't know we had a magnetic tranny bolt...is that a 4th gen thing?

 

You can buy the magnet from a dealer.

I put it in my old Auto and moved it to the 5spd when I did the swap.

I guess my tranny is going - 339hp/285tq had to kill a used tranny with 110k on it already at some point I suppose.....

Question is - what's going?

The grinding noise is EXACTLY what you hear when you grind a shift - just only about half as loud.

 

Sounds like the infamous tranny whine...talk with Dave Burnette, he just replaced his tranny and he's stock because of this.

 

I have a tranny whine also, but the tranny seems to shift just fine. Does it just give out or is there other symtoms to look for when its ok its last leg?

 

theres another magnet inside the trans and it may look somthing like this



thats after the inputshaft bearing looks like this



and for referance its suposed to look like this

 

Again - I have no whine - only what it sounds like when you grind syncros lightly and no axle leaks.

 

The input shaft may be bent just a little to where the gears rake in 1st and 2nd gear. I drove for over a year with this problem until shavings got into the gear setg bearings. I had to have a whole new gear set installed that cost $1,300. You might have some time but get ready for the inevitable.

 

OK - drove it this morning - have more info:

1) The grinding doesn't happen when I first start the car - only after about 5mins of driving.

2) The noise is coming from the shifter it seems - not the tranny. But I don't know if the vibration that is causing that is being carried up from the tranny or what.

3) I noticed after about 15 mins of stop and go traffic, the Clutch grabs VERY softly. The pedal has to be at just about the top before any engagement.

When cold, the engagement is gradual throughout the pedal travel and when it does grab it grabs hard.

When warm it is not gradual at all until top then it barely feels like it grabs - just feels mushy....

?

 

Time for an AE VLSD... Don't bother rebuilding when its just over half the price for used ones with 20K on them.

 

i think that would depend on who was doing the rebiuld since the kit is under 200$ but labors the killer

 

when you shift from 1st to 2nd can you feel the gears rake?

 

 

thats ugly man.

 

The funny part is the rest of the tranny is immaculate inside!

 

so did the magnet catch everything?

 

big chunks - ya - I'm jsut saying the gearing and everythign else loks great.

Maybe I'll rebuild it then sell it to someone one day when I have time - dor now I need to buy a new tranny.

 

Where do I get an AE VLSD?

PM me.

 

sorry about your tranny man and not to hijack or railroad you thread or anything but do you have a part number on this thing?

 

Sorry - I don't.

 

I jsut did some re-checking - I think I misremembered - I think it came with the Auto Tranny.

 

I was amazed how clean the tranny looked inside despite having chunks of the input shaft bearing cage floating around.

S

 

ha gee what a quawincadance your pic has a striking resemblance of mine

the input shaft bearing is an EXTREMELY COMMON problem with 3rd gen 5spds i bet atleast 50% of the members with over 150k (lots) in the 3rdgen section have this problem they are always complaining about the noise some are worse than others. a week does not pass without a post about whats makeing a marbles in a can noise that goes away when i push the clutch in. I wonder if it will be common with 4th gens also once more of them get higher milage on them

you can get the I S bearing from http://www.drivetrain.com/ for 21$ or a rebiuld kit or go to the dealer

i also believe MATT93SE once mentioned (when his bearing failed) the I S bearing is only rated to 6k RPMS and that could be why it fails before everything else. proboly the reason for this was back when this trans was designed (1985) the max only had a VG engine which had a 6k readline but when they went to the VE and VQ which have much higher readlines they never changed the bearing

 

Hmmm...how hard is it to change this bearing out?

 

anyone ever done it?

 

do you have an FSM? because thats pretty much required and a press to remove install the nearing and thats pretty much it

 

300 below finally e,mailed me back and here what they said

Let’s answer your question, “what is the typical charge to freeze the internals of a manual transmission and also roughly what is the turnaround time on that?’

We charge $3.50/per pound for treating transmission gears, shafts, bearings, transmission cases, turbochargers, superchargers, and axles. Parts are normally treated disassembled. Please call before shipping so that we can review everything before parts are shipped to us. Try to have your parts delivered to us by noon Tuesday or noon Friday as we load processors on Tuesday afternoon and Friday afternoon.

Parts that are loaded into processors on Tuesday afternoon will have processing completed and will be shipped out on Friday.

Parts that are loaded into processors on Friday afternoon will have processing completed and will be shipped out on Tuesday.

Thanks again and I look forward to treating for you.


sounds like a pretty good price and good turnaround time so ill proboly go with them but ill still have to look around for a place that does shot peening

 

VLSD tranny installed - feels GREAT!!!



thanks to maximase86 and Nozama for helping me on this one......It's nice to drive her again....

IanS

 

where did you end up gettin the tranny? and how much did it cost ya?

 

car-part.com pointed me to Team Auto Parts in Winnepeg.

Cost was $1000 USD shipped with axle - the only cheaper place listed had actually already sold it to kenji, another Northwest guy.

They bench tested it and gave me a 90 day warranty.

The only problem was a CV Boot ripped during shipping - but we were able to replace that fairly easily.

 

not bad, you feel a hugh diff?

 

To be honest - no - not at all.

But I haven't really ripped on it yet either.

 

i c...well its probalby gonna make a nice diff on handling...either way congrats, ur car just gets better and better....

 

Ian, are you still using the clutchnet with the puck disc? Im about to order one so I was checking to see if you still approve. Why don't you like the lightened fly? Im putting one in. I drove my bros 5th gen with act and light fly wheel and didn't mind at all... thanks
Your messages are full!!!

 

Still using the clutchnet - except for some of the paint having rubbed off hte pressure plate in one spot, it looked brand new - so I jsut stayed with it after making sure it was good still.

Lightened Flywheel + 339whp = USELESS 1st gear!

 

Ahh, that makes sense. But 1st gear is usless with the power im pushing. 10psi untuned = ??? Im also riding on momo arrows that weigh 26lbs each! I looking forward to the light fly, trying to shed lbs any way I can. thanks for the quick response Ian.

 

It's less about total weight of the car then it is centrifugal force of the flywheel. Your RPMs will go up so fast you'll LOSE time in 1st gear just having to shift so early without gaining speed yet.

Or that's been my experience.

 

feather feather feather....