Nope not really,just the fact that VQ was such a complex motor to remove,time consumming,that why people opt to buy a junk yard motor and call it a day.LOL!

 

I do it at full temp after driving on the highway for a while, kill the car by pulling the fuel pump fuse at idle, crank till it stops peaking, do them all in the same order, same proccess every time, I then do it again to verify. They are usually consistant for me. The decline has been gradual over the past few years.

 

yeah I agree thats the same way I do it too. They seem to be really close to me. Just turn it over intill it stops peaking. witch is about 7 revolutions

 

I agree, and you had a lot of good points Neal. I'd like to comment as well with my story:

1st Turbo Setup: 300-500hp. much experimentation. occasional motor mishaps.
When I first fit a turbo to my car, I added a FMU and set boost to 6 or 7psi and all was well. While not making the most possible horsepower, it ran safely. I continued on into 12,13psi etc and it was simply too much fuel pressure for the injectors and pump, and resulted in the loss of motors on higher boost 13,14+psi usually. So, my answer to that was running lower boost and wet nitrous because it supplies fuel for itself without taxing the injectors. When that got old, I would allow boost to creep when I sprayed the car to a level that it would normally run lean, but I overjetted the nitrous to help compensate. It was not ideal, and yes I lost headgaskets etc from time to time because of it, but it gave a good amount of life and enjoyment for the occasional 200$ new motor and 4-6 hours it took to throw it in the car.

I also experimented with running silly amounts of nitrous - 100, 150, 175+ shot - and quickly found the limits of single fogger dispersement in addition to mevi's not liking big bottle.

2nd Turbo Setup: 500+, engine rather reliable
When I went back for round 2 wanting more power with a new turbo setup, I decided it was time to add fuel, 6 370s and 2 750s; although still not ideal it fit the budget and there were fewer alternatives then. With a wideband and emanage, the tune was dialed in to a safe AF without knock. On that setup w/ bottle, it made over 500whp at medium boost (I can't recall now.. 12, 14psi?) and stayed with me for quite some time making passes at the track and MANY street "pulls."

In the months following the dyno I continued upping boost, tuning it on higher octane gas at 16, 18, and a few ~20psi pulls before I backed it down because...

At that point, the engine was giving me no problems - but rather the transmission was my new frustration. 3rd gear was the time bomb we all know it to be, and also having no LSD made more power work against me all the more. From a roll on the street with good rubber, it was a blast and a hard car to beat (which I often miss)


If I were to do it all over, there are plenty of things I would change and have learned from; the two largest being:
1. Management. After installing and tuning a standalone on my lexus, I would standalone the VQ car as well and ensure safe AFR and dyno tune ignition. There are cheaper alternatives, but having one unit that directly controls fuel and timing properly ends up not being that much more.
2. Transmission. Finding a way to keep 3rd gear alive...


I would still love to see what a VQ30 can do; I don't think 500,600,++ is out of the question at all for a VQ to produce reliably but harnessing that power in a FWD with a good transmission and traction I see being headaches.

 

Thinking more about it... I could probably be convinced rather easily to pay for the C16 or VP Import ($25+/gallon), dyno time, and take care of replacing the motor if someone has a healthy VQ with a turbo setup that is capable of and efficient at 600-800hp. I'd love to just keep increasing power with a proper tune to see when it lets go (if the tranny doesn't say holler first). I think most everyone would be surprised, myself included.

Really, even headgaskets and head studs would be great for the stock motor, but if you are going to that trouble I'd question why not drop pistons/rods in as well.

 

I'm a brick when it comes to FI.

But couldn't we just get a boost controller and adjust it by individual gear? For easy launches, 1-2 psi in 1st gear, 5-6 in 2nd, 10+ in 3rd and so on. So all gears would basically end up having the same acceleration, being just on the verge of breaking loose depending on your tires.

 

Yeah... that's why I'm doing it RWD.. The 350Z trans will hold the power for sure.

Travis

 

We hope :crossfingers:
Do you know what the max power put through the stock 350Z tranny is? My roommate did 600ish on around 19psi without problems... we're hoping for the best when we go back here shortly at 35-40+psi


JClaw, you can. My boost controller would ramp up to 100% at user-defined speed. While I played with that, I usually just stayed away from bottle until 3rd gear and higher

 

Talk to Neal, I am sure he would take you up on that offer. Next spring he plans on putting a new motor in with a DE-K Variable Intake Manifold. He is going to address the fuel issues with 6 650 DeatschWerks Injectors and Methanol Injection. I bet you can make some great numbers with that setup.

 

Greddy makes a stearing wheel switch so you can switch between low and high boost as you run. Ive seen it in a race civic and thats exactly what he does. In a heads up drag race he will launch on low boost then if needed switch into high boost. On my Profec E01 I can switch into an "Overtake" boost mode for a preset amount of time. I have toyed with launching and then switching to "insane boost" in 3rd.

 

My boost controller is the old AVC-D that Hal mentioned, it has a speed setting that you can set to be the max boost speed, so you can set it to say 60mph, and it would ramp the boost up linearly til 60mph when it would then remain at max boost above 60mph. I haven't messed with it at all sine I got the car though.