my car did it again, it felt like i hit a brick wall once i hit 3k rpm, and the check engine light came on.. it said it was p0340 cam position sensor circuit malfunction. the first time the car did it, it wouldn't rev past 4k rpm. and it felt like hitting a brick wall or something.. (almost like an electronic fuel cut). and then yesterday it did it and the maximum rpm kept dropping, soon i was unable to rev over 1.6k. i'm sure it's not the maf.. but i have no clue what else it can be asides from the emanage.

i know alex was experiencing similar problems but was anyone else experiencing the same problem

much help is greatly appreciated.

-daniel

 

Do you have the cam line hooked up or are you just using the tach signal? I would not even hook up the cam now. It's not needed.

Check wiring.. any bad connection or shorts that could cause the cam signal to go bad?

 

Start with a new/clean *.em2 file and re-teach your TPS. That's what I did and I haven't had it happen again.

I believe it has something to do with TPS, but not sure.

What wires are you intercepting besides the maf, ignition, and injectors?

 

Also, try powering the EU, then starting the Support Tool. When it asks you to download from the EU, say yes. Try comparing the file you think you're running to what's in the EU to make sure they match.

My weird issue of my injectors going static was cured by this re-sync, so I figure I had a bad/corrupt download in the EU.

 

thanks man =D..

it's weird, because it drives fine most of the time and then it just bugged out twice.. i'll try resyncing it today. i dont' have the emanage support tool installed on my new laptop but i'll give it a shot. i intercepted the speed wire, maf, ignition and injectors and everything else it said in the manual. i don't think my cam wire is hooked up right now. i'm reading off the tach right now.

thanks for the replies.

who here daily drives with the emanage plugged in? mine has been daily driven since i first put it in.

 

Mine's running all the time....

I'd use the ignition inputs vs. the tach.

 

I had this before after installing the Unorthodox underdrive pulley... exact same symptoms. The car would buck like it hit fuel cut at around 3800 RPM for me.

Checked all the wires and even replaced the cam shaft sensor, but never found the issue. The problem went away all by itself and never came back (pre-SC and pre-turbo). I think it lasted a good month... maybe more.

 

That's interesting that you guys have had these issues... I never did, and my car was driven daily for months too. Maybe just a coincidence that you're both 5th gen and I'm 4th... I never even thought about a sync issue since it's always worked flawlessly for me.

Alex you prefer the ignition inputs now over the tach? IIRC weren't you thinking the opposite before?

 

I've always run the ignition inputs....I tried the tach to trouble shoot other hicups, but the ignition inputs "seems" to work smoother/log smoother.

 

Oh ok somehow I thought you'd been using the tach. Musta mixed up something I read in a post/thread of yours.

 

yah, you were the first one i thought of when i found out the ses was for the cam sensor, but then you didn't have any engine manage units when you first had the problem.

well the car bucks at low rpms now but for the most part drives fine.. but i noticed, once i push the clutch in and throw it in neutral to slow down, the revs drop to about 1.7k rpm and then oscilates a bit and then goes down to 700 rpm.. real weird.. i'll try to change the setup on my eu tomorrow...
alex, what size injectors is our cars? iforgot.. i think i put down 270cc.. so i could have messed up the injector size. i'm running stock injectors for now.

thanks everyone.

 

Leave the injector fields both zero, however if you have 270 before and 270 after it doesn't change anything.

Our injectors are 290cc mingo.

 

iirc i couldn't get the car to start until i put down the values for the injectors but i could be wrong, i'll have to find out later tonight.. thanks =D.

 

That surprises me... I never had any issues like that.

But yeah I agree... if you have stock injectors there's no need to scale, just use the maps to trim/add and leave the scaling boxes blank.

 

i guess you guys are right. i dont' have to put anything down for the injectors if i didn't change them. the car still runs a bit funny but it feels more responsive and solid than before. i cleared the ses light using a obd2 reader and i hope all goes well. i'll be putting over 2k miles on the car this weekend.

 

What do you mean funny? Describe please...

The only times my car didn't start with the EU was when I was trying different vehicles to see if the crank would work and I chose a 4cylinder so only 4 channels were pre-configured on the I/J tab. Plus, when I'd forget to plug the ignition harness back in after I download.

 

I'd try bypassing the ignition channels, then reconnect, and bypass the injector channels to see if either gets rid of "funny".

You might also try bypassing the speed signal, if you are intercepting it vs. just tapping.

 

what do you mean by bypassing it??

funny as in, the rpms kind of stay at around 1.6k rpm and then slow down to about 1.1k rpm and then drop back down to 700rpm. it doesn't drop down like it usually would once the clutch is pushed in.

the car bucks alot at around 1.5k rpm. feels like i tapped on the brakes and then released it real quick. and sometimes it sounds like i'm detonating when i accelerate. i dont' have my wideband hooked up yet because the manufacture for the turbo pipes is still lagging on me, i didn't want to weld on a 02 bung on my y-pipe because i didnt' want to waste the money.

anyways what would be a target AF on a wideband? as in what is ideal? 14.7? or 14.2?

 

hey alex, can you please email me your emanage setup file? i think there's something seriously wrong with my car. it was shuttering when i went to get gas tonight during acceleration.

how do i set up the knock input on the emanage? is ours resonant or non resonant?

thanks in advance
-daniel

 

Take a small flat head screw driver and pop the EU connector back off and then from the front of the connector release the input/output wire for each channel/signal. I use a piece of wire into each metal end on each wire with some electrical tape. However, if you used Greddys' bullet connectors, you just P-N-P, but I didn't use them.

Mine does this too....I believe it's normal due to the EU intercepting signals. I'm hoping the crank input fixes this. Did you just tap the TPS or did you intercept it?

Now that you have a new laptop, go out an do some logging and send me the files. Try to start and stop right around when this happens on the logger.

Don't worry about closed-loop, ie stoich ~14.7:1. The stock ECU will take care of that with 02 sensor feedback. You should be tunning your WB02 for open loop, ie TPS >40% to WOT, driving. NA I think the consensus is around 13:1, but turbo'd around 11-11.5:1 is what most say.

 

I'll see if I can dig it up this weekend, PM me your address. I think I have it, but just incase I can't find it.

Don't use the knock input yet...it doesn't work supposedly.

 

i wired up everything according to the installation manual so as far as the tps goes i guess i only tapped it and dind't intercept it.

it's weird on the datalog file it doens't show the correct values for boost/vacuum nor does it display throttle percentage correctly..

my email is danweng@ucla.edu. i logged a file last night. can you please shoot me your email addy again? i dont' have it stored on this laptop.

 

Yeah, you need to get that TPS dead on. I was intercepting mine, since I had it running throught the Analog Output map for N20. However, the Analog map isn't 16x16, so my TPS voltage was real rough and causing driveability problems and a high idle(good if you have cams~!).

 

Depending on how much load, boost, and Hz (MAF signal), 11.5 AFR is probably too lean on 91 octane... go 11.0-11.2.

 

hrm... i'm getting smoke out of my tailpipes now.. i think it's unburnt fuel.. i only have a main cat and no precats.. if my motor blows, i'm swapping in a 3.5. the vq30dek is just too much trouble.

 

My guess withOUT seeing your logs is that you're running super rich. My car bucked and when I looked at the logs, the injectors were going static, ie 100% dutycycle at ~5100rpm IIRC. I also had smoke from running super rich.

My cats always smelled like they were burning(rotten egg smell) after Rev-limit cut runs due to excess fuel building up in the exhaust.

I'm not 100% sure how I fixed my injector going static issue, but I think my *em2 stored in the EU got corrupted. Once I sync'd, the problem went away.

Again, get some logs doing some cruising runs and at least one WOT run.

 

alright. i'll do a few logs for my drive tonight. i'm driving from los angeles to sacramento. i'm also guessing i'm running super rich. don't know what the cause of it is but we'll see soon.. i've always had the rotten egg smell, first i thought it was my main cat, i swapped that out. then it was still there. and then i swapped out the stock y for a fed spec y, and i still get that. so next time around i might just do no cats.

isn't there a clean foul plug feature on the eu? have you ever tried it? maybe i'm not getting clean sparks.

TIA
-daniel

 

this thing is a causing too much of a headache. i unplugged the eu halfway to sacramento from LA. the car was shuttering way too much. after i unplugged it and returned it to stock, the car ran smooth... i guess i'll just wait for the crank fix.. i don't want to try anything out here because towing almost 400 miles is going to cost alot.

 

did you try setting up a new em2 file with nothing programmed (ie stock inputs/outputs) and re-uploading it to the EU? (ie resetting/resyncing- whatever you want to call it)

 

yeah i tried doing that already..

what's wierd is that in the beginning, it was all running just fine. but then now it's starting to have problems.. shouldn't these things either work or not work? maybe i have a jumpersetting wrong.. we'll see..

 

mingo,

Disconnect the knock, crank, and cam wires and see if it makes any difference.

I think people should ONLY connect the MAF, then go for a test drive. Then the TPS and go for a test drive. Then the ignition wires, then go for a test drive. Then add the injector and go for a test drive. Basically, start with the minimal setup and start adding each feature one at a time. I didn't and I paid for it, ie TPS.

 

I'll bet you have the knock sensor connected and that's your problem mingo. I've heard from others that the EU tapping the knock can cause some cars to run bad.

 

Hmm, that's interesting. Did you hear this on Yahoo? (I haven't checked in there recently).

Once again though, I never seemed to have any issues with that on my car and my KS has been connected since day 1.

 

Yeah but on other cars...however who knows what the jumper settings were or if the wiring was correct.

Well if yours works...probably not it then.

 

What did you put in for your knock type/frequency? What did the logging show?

 

Also, did you leave JP13/JP14 "OPEN" yet have knock work?

I figured out why I moved them to "1-2" in your other thread, which caused the temp to the stock ECU to be low and the fans not to kick on. Because the manual says, "This jumper will configure pin 32 channel in the Connector C (14 pin connector).Set to “OPEN” for Normal type (when used for knock sensor), and “1-2” for pull-up Type(for temp sensor).".

 

it's gonna be a bit hard for me to disconect wires. i made made a harness using 3 15pin harness connectors, so if i remove it, i'll have to cut and solder.. i didn't know the knock sensors effected the eu, i thought it was only there for datalogging. now to think of it.. i'm not sure if i even have the ks hooked up or the intake temp.. i'll have to chase the wires down again to make sure.

something is telling me that there's a problem with either my stock ecu or my stock tps, because the car bucks alot around a certain rpm range..

 

Get me a datalog...I can already tell your TPS voltage is low from your *.em2 file. There are two TPS wires and I think you may have tapped a different one then mine.

Just pop the wire out of the back of the connector that plugs into the EU on any of your tapped wires to disable it. If it is an intercepted wire, you have to pop the input and output wires to the EU and connect them together.

 

Oh shoot. Brain cramp. You know what, I forgot I switched my KS over to the analog input to be able to connect both the intake air and water temps up. So disregard my comments about the KS then.

 

So you didn't have the knock sensor connected to either the intake or water temp inputs then?