K well its been about a week since my motors been out of the car. we were able to pull the motor out in a day and a half but the DEK didnt arrive until a few days later. Just got the motor in tonight by myself which was a PITA. Still have the usuals to bolt up and I have to figure out the vaccum lines. Anyone who done this have any insight??? Main concern right now is the EVAP/Map Boro solenoids.

 

The reason I went with the swap.
OLD MOTOR: mulitple oil leaks (main seal), coolant leak and finally the all mighty broken CPS bolt.

 

Been waiting to do this.... NICE GARAGE! Justin you are the man sorry i wasn't there to help you tonight.

 

Very nice. Ill be doing this in about a week or two. Still waiting for my clutch and alternator. How many miles are on your DE-K ??

-matt

 

55k, I'm in UT so theres no one here I can get a motor for cheap, the motor was $300 and $225 for shipping from RI. There was a local one with 20k but they want around 1k for it.

 

what yard in RI?

 

did you pull the motor and tranny out at the same time and was it from the bottom or top? im starting mine also this week

 

We pulled the motor and tranny out together from the top... We have ran into a few more unexpected things and have had to backtrack a lot but it feels good to finally have it back in, Justins old motor had over 100K when he got it, maxed it out n/a w/ 7200 redline, then sprayed 125 shot of nitrous later on, then it was turbo'd at 11PSI for 4 months, yeah i'd say it was time for a new motor

 

if you look in the FSM there are guides that will tell you what goes to what for the evap, map boro, and stuff like that and the egr solenoid. If you really need help let me know i did the swap about a month ago

 

the factory emissions set up is retarded. i re did all mine and its so simple. the original vacuum gallery is just an unneeded tangle of spaghetti. im not familiar with the dek stuff, but i assume its worse.

 

I removed the 4th gen gallies cuz it was confusing, 5th gen gallies didnt line up. I found out where the two of the 3 nipple is suppose to go for all three soleniods(EVAP/MAP/EGR) but the third one "air duct" in FSM terms, I guess goes between the TB and MAF? Jsutter said that this is true for the MAP soleniod but I wanna know if its also for the other two.

Jsutter- I will paypal came get one locally, my friend may also have an extra too. I will let you know.

 

General Auto. They were cheap and gave me the bare minimum of the motor (no coilpacks, sensors) compared to when I order a DE a few years ago which came with everything. I just hope it runs good.

 

Did you ever get your VQ30 Dyno'ed with the GT35R on it? Also make sure to get it dyno'ed with the DE-K boosted. I really want to see how it performs, cause that's the same setup that I'm gonna be doing once I get my 4th Gen.

 

I did dyno but I was having multiple problems, (faulty cam sensor, vi not activating) and on top of that it was a brand new shop and dyno (of which I've never heard of the dyno: Dynomite?). It was free but the numbers were way off, I put down 243hp with vi stuck open and 207hp with in close. The dyno graph didnt even look right, however a zo6 dynoed at 260hp the next day so I was like only 17hp from him.. I plan on getting to a dynojet or a mustang dyno after the swap is done but it will be a little before I can get to it.

 

ill have to look at my car and make a pic. i made one for 95 fed spec, so ill just modify that pic.

 

You guys pull that motor and tranny from top remember to remove the oil filter, fans, radiator, condensor and tranny mount. Condensor is a must if you have ABS lines.

 

i gotta pull it from the top because i cant clear the kit if i drop it out the bottom. and i dont want to risk f@cking up the body some more trying to tow it somewhere i can use a lift

 

on top of that, you may have to play with the angle of the engine a bit, It wont clear the frame if you just lift it straight up. Its easier with a helper to guide the motor around.

Update- currently waiting on the feedpipe to get some rewelding, after that I can bolt on the front and rear motor mounts. Hook up the coolant and oil lines to the turbo and reinstall the rad. I'm having trouble with the driver side axle right now also, it seems like it just doesnt want to lock, I have about an inch to an inch and a half of the axle sticking out of the trans. I'm hoping that its because of my motor not mounted completely and not gving me a good angle to push it in. Other than that everything else is just awaiting game.

 

yes apparently when they refer to the air duct they are saying about the small pipe on the intake. I dropped the transmission and then pulled the motor with out removing the subframe the tranny is actually quite easy so its not a big deal

 

my 97 had vaccum chart on the inside of the hood. I had 3 little sensors for vaccum. You need vaccum off the intake manifold for 1 nipple,. vaccum off the intake, the little nipple off intake. Then the 3rd goes to EGR,EVAP, and manfiold pressure sensors. Each one is different tho, as in they all don't have the same nipples for the same lines. i was so happy when i saw that little chart. Green was egr, black was evap, brown was manifold pressure. i just got vuccum line and a brought a 60 piece plastic t set for 10 bucks. I have no codes in my 97, no EGR tho. I used the 5th gen ivac, works great.