A freind of mine just bought a supercharged 97 auto about a week ago with a v2 kit installed, havent really had much time to mess around with the car but today he snapped a belt on it, since we didnt install it im not really sure whats involved in changing it, i'll be going tonight to help him out and get it home from the parking lot its siting in. What tools do i need to change it and how hard of a thing is it to change Thanks in advance for any help

--Dan

 

You need to goto the stickies and download the installation instructions. Way too many things to list if you have never done it before.

 

socket set (swivel socket would make things easier)
open ended wrench set
low profile 10mm wrench for that one PITA timing cover bolt behind supercharger pulley
socket extensions
allen wrench set (large ones, particularly metric 5, 6, 7, 8 and up) forgot which one it is
common sense
patience

remove charge pipe
remove intake filter
release belt tensioner
unscrew oil feed line
unbolt supercharger plate from side of engine
undo the hose clamp on the oil drain hose
pull supercharger w/ plate off engine
unbolt supercharger from plate
remove belt and lay new belt in place
installation is the reverse of everything (do not overtighen oil feed line or else it will crack and leak like a ****)

 

Tell him to upgrade to a V1 Supercharger Plate.
Absolutely NO More Belt issues.

Information Below on the Conversion Kit (V2 to V1)

-matt

 

Would there be a better belt to use other then the one listed in the installation instructions. The Gates K060710, or is that the only choice i have?

 

Gates or Goodyear Gatorback works.

-matt

 

For some reason, the big allen head bolts that bolt the SC to the plate seemed to be standard not metric. I figured it made sense since the bolts, vortech, etc assembly is american made, not overseas. So it wouldn't be metric. If you do not have the EXACT allen keys for these do not even ATTEMPT to turn the bolts, they will strip and you guys would be screwed.


The way I did it was:

1. Jack up car, support on jack stand, pull off wheel, remove the plastic liner that covers the belt area.

2. Pull off air filter and disconnect the charge pipe, get it out of the way.

3. Disconnect the SS oil feed line.

4. Remove those 2 17mm bolts through the motor mount (far left on the SC plate).

5. Get those 8mm bolts (or 10mm) that go through the plate and the timing chain case off. Even the ones right behind the pulley. Use a 10 or 8mm open end wrench to back them out.

6. Get under the car, use a 14mm wrench to get the nut off the tensioner pulley off, and pull off the tensioner pulley.

7. Remove the 3 bolts holding in the tensioner bracket.

8. Reach up and get a 12mm socket onto that bolt up by the fat radiator hose. (Some find it easier to remove the SC plate with this hose disconnected from the thermo housing completely) I agree, but I don't like to make unnecessary messes. Remove that 12mm bolt.

9. Next, come from the top or bottom, up to you (If the rad hose is removed, it is so much easier to get to). And use and angle wrench to get that 19mm bolt off the idler pulley. Once you get this off, there is an allen bolt underneath it that needs to come out as well.

10. There is one more bolt that goes through the standoff bolt, should be obvious. Disconnect Crank Position Sensor (it is the only wire harness running through/near the SC plate). Go underneath and loosen the hose clamp on the oil drainback J tube. When you finally pull the SC plate off grab that hose and yank it off the drainback tube.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Hard to explain this, but I used one of those 6 in one unversal screwdrivers and pulled the bit/insert out. So now you have an empty screwdriver sorta. I slipped the allen key in that and used it as a mini breaker bar for those allen bolts behind the SC plate. I think the sizes were standard 3/4 and 1/2. Don't quote me on it though.

 

Thanks alot for your help. Ill let you al know how it goes this weekand when we change it, it'll be our first time and unfortunetly its not going to be in the perfect area to do this....but we'll see...

 

also if it becomes and issue, just slap the stock belt on until you can really get at. also sometimes those bolts on the back become frozen or stripped just weld a nut on the head of the allen screw and air gun it off, obviously you wil have to get new bolts but thats the only way to get them off if you have to.

 

Well, we got the SC off and are planning on putting a smaller pulley on but we need to know if we need to grind down anything on the v2 bracket so doesnt it chew up belts even worse or its fine the way it is...if anyone knows thanks..

 

Well we succesfully removed the supercharger from my car...several times and got it working again. It actually performs alot better then before from switching the stock pulley to a smaller one for 9psi. I can easily say now that i know the supercharger installation like the back of my hand now. Thanks for the all the help.

 

Congrats man. Glad it all worked out.

 

Ugh, so is it normal for a v2 to grind the belt down 2 ribs in 2 days...or is it something i did wrong in the installation? Im going to have to save up a bit for the V1 Convertion kit matty sells on here...how long would it be ok to run the car on the oem belt? and how bad is it to run the car on the oem belt with all the sc parts still in it...

 

No that isn't normal, your pulleys probably aren't perfectly lined up. And no, you don't have to shell out that much for another plate, just get a lexus metal tensioner pulley or aftermarket replacement pulley for the tensioner and/or idler pulley. That stock tensioner pulley is a big problem, the belt almost always gets shredded up by the sidewall of that pulley. Look into a better tensioner pulley. Something wider and without sidewalls. I have the v2 blower on a v2 plate going on a year now driving the car hard, and my belt never shredded or even jumped a rib in the time i've had it. I've gone through the 3.25, and the 2.87.

 

That sounds like a much better idea to me, ive been looking around but not postive where to pick up the pullys from, it seems like i may have to call asp racing for the pully. If you guys know any other place to pick up a new Blower pully (3.33), Tensioner pully and idler pully [non plastic] please let me know and thanks for the help.

 

I think those are in the stickies. Call Jeff at Maximum Tuning for the part number for the Lexus Metal pulley he uses. 516 676 8470. He will tell you the part number or description and you can go to your local Toyota/Lexus dealership and pick it up for like $80 I believe.

 

Sorry to post in here but i can make my own posts yet i guess...I had put the stock belt on my car a short while back and havent been driving much at all just when needed and i noticed it just sucks my gas down i was wondering if there was any sort of way i could fix this easily, i had dropped the fuel pressure down to 40 im not sure if it should be lower or maybe there something else i can do till i get the pulleys i need.

 

Turn off your boost inline pump (if you have that) and disconnect the FMU and plug the vacuum line.

 

I got 25mpg when I was temporary N/A with the FMU and pump hooked up. Those two don't do anything unless they see boost from the vacuum line.

 

Your right.... long day I wasn't thinking.

 

So i guess i need to just suck it up till i can change my pulleys and put the belts on? Should i lower my fuel pressure at all...its at 45psi right now, i was calling around to see what the stock setup should be but i havent been able to figure it out yet..

 

That is pretty high. Stock base fuel pressure is 34 psi.