removing the engine & tranny...
#1
removing the engine & tranny...
I'm about to remove the engine & auto tranny off of my 2k1, before I start with my questions let say this is my life dream come thrue, I'm going to entirely rebuilt this car and I give myself 18 months for the build up.
Basically the car will be supercharged once the engine & tranny are rebuilded, many parts will be chromed, powder coated or painted. I dont want to detailed everything but instead give you the big picture, ( I will post pics from time to time during the project ) in the mean time I need some help.
Almost everything that is hooked up to the engine has been removed or disconnected the rest will be done over the course of this week.
It's the first time I'll be removing an engine from a Japanese car, I've remove many engine from american car but not the Maxima specificaly.
I have decided to do most of the job myself and so far so good.
Where do I attached the chain on the block in order to pull the engine ?
Should I remove the tranny attached to the engine ?
Any good advise is welcome here, I mean I can try to figure it out myself and maybe take twice the time to do the job so if I can avoid that it would be perfect. Dont get me wrong here the car is almost dismentel and everything went fine exept few jammed bolts & screw.
So any write up or anything that can save me time is welcome.
Thank you all for your help.
AA
Basically the car will be supercharged once the engine & tranny are rebuilded, many parts will be chromed, powder coated or painted. I dont want to detailed everything but instead give you the big picture, ( I will post pics from time to time during the project ) in the mean time I need some help.
Almost everything that is hooked up to the engine has been removed or disconnected the rest will be done over the course of this week.
It's the first time I'll be removing an engine from a Japanese car, I've remove many engine from american car but not the Maxima specificaly.
I have decided to do most of the job myself and so far so good.
Where do I attached the chain on the block in order to pull the engine ?
Should I remove the tranny attached to the engine ?
Any good advise is welcome here, I mean I can try to figure it out myself and maybe take twice the time to do the job so if I can avoid that it would be perfect. Dont get me wrong here the car is almost dismentel and everything went fine exept few jammed bolts & screw.
So any write up or anything that can save me time is welcome.
Thank you all for your help.
AA
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Great post for the general forum. All motor is for advance questions.
Rebuild the car?? Thats equivalent to restoring it. Why do you want to restore a 5-6year old car? did you trash it?
Any way when I pulled my engine I used the AC brackets and bolted it to the chain and exhaust manifolds.
And removing import or domestic engines is the same. Wires and connectors only go one place and cant be hooked up wrong unless you force them...Ive pulled plenty of engines and wiring and such is the easiest part.
~Alex
Rebuild the car?? Thats equivalent to restoring it. Why do you want to restore a 5-6year old car? did you trash it?
Any way when I pulled my engine I used the AC brackets and bolted it to the chain and exhaust manifolds.
And removing import or domestic engines is the same. Wires and connectors only go one place and cant be hooked up wrong unless you force them...Ive pulled plenty of engines and wiring and such is the easiest part.
~Alex
#3
Yes I'm rebuilding the car I'm going to put 30K+in rebuilding the engine and tranny, puttin a SC, lots of chrome, custom paint job, I'll be making it a show car. If you not ready to help others you should simply not answer, I'm 45 year olds & when I first start rebuilding cars you where not even born and I'm not being a a$$ about it, so I help others when I can without negatice comments.
#4
Originally Posted by doublea
Yes I'm rebuilding the car I'm going to put 30K+in rebuilding the engine and tranny, puttin a SC, lots of chrome, custom paint job, I'll be making it a show car. If you not ready to help others you should simply not answer, I'm 45 year olds & when I first start rebuilding cars you where not even born and I'm not being a a$$ about it, so when I can I help others without negatice comments.
Your post-count shows you've been around here longer than most, so you gotta know what you are getting into. I wish I was good enough to make my car look good inside and underneath, but I have to settle for fast.
.
.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by doublea
Yes I'm rebuilding the car I'm going to put 30K+in rebuilding the engine and tranny, puttin a SC, lots of chrome, custom paint job, I'll be making it a show car. If you not ready to help others you should simply not answer, I'm 45 year olds & when I first start rebuilding cars you where not even born and I'm not being a a$$ about it, so when I can I help others without negatice comments.
My post wasn't really trying to be negative just suggestive. No offense, I cant wait to see the outcome actually. My point was theres a difference between restoring and rebuilding. I just go for the details tho. GL with the rebuild.
BTW 6 speed swap FTMFW!!!
~Alex
#6
Hey Alex, ok I see your point. I didn't want to be rude or something but sometime I get those really stupid answer from kids that 2 years ago where still going to high school. I mean I have been in business for more than 20 years, I've rebuild many many car in my life and now I want to build my 2k1 20th ann. Before losing my time trying things I ask other who have the experience with what I want to do. I can remove a american muscle car engine with in few hours. I never did it before on a max so when I post a thread I expect to have answer from the experienced users.
At this time I'm not excluding anything but I want to keep the 3.0L because I want to SC it and I have almost everything to do it exept the Blower which I will finally buy brand new. I may also decide to keep the autotragic and have a bullet proof rebuild cuz no manual tranny can shift faster than auto tranny. I understand the drive train lost of a auto but I will compensate that by having more power to the engine but nothing is decided yet for that aspect. I have no idea if a 6 speed can be mate with the 3.0L so it's an aspect that I have to look at it.
Cheers
Andre
At this time I'm not excluding anything but I want to keep the 3.0L because I want to SC it and I have almost everything to do it exept the Blower which I will finally buy brand new. I may also decide to keep the autotragic and have a bullet proof rebuild cuz no manual tranny can shift faster than auto tranny. I understand the drive train lost of a auto but I will compensate that by having more power to the engine but nothing is decided yet for that aspect. I have no idea if a 6 speed can be mate with the 3.0L so it's an aspect that I have to look at it.
Cheers
Andre
#8
Thanks for the infos, I'll certainly contact tilley for the 6 speed, but the autotragic bullet proof rebuilt is going to be much less of a trouble, but let see first the pros and cons.
#9
Thanks for the infos, I'll certainly contact tilley for the 6 speed, but the autotragic bullet proof rebuilt is going to be much less of a trouble, but let see first the pros and cons.
#10
Man...Can some people be more a holes..especially when its coming from someone younger?!?!.someone comes and posts for some advice and then he gets slammed....then tells him what tranny to get?!?..
doublea- Do what you wanna do...a bullet proof auto is kool...as far as pulling everything out...its much easier taking the whole thing out. pretty much unbolt the A/C compressor from motor, so you don't lose any freon, pull out all things that might get in the way. radiator, manifold( for wire harness), Y pipe, and such...there are lots of things that needs to be prepped. If you have a buddy to help it would be great also.after taking most things outIve attach the chain to the exhaust manifold.Its kinda tight but patience and a little bit of skills will pull that out with no problem...Ive done motor swaps and 5 speed swaps left and right and its always cool to have a hand especially when you need to jack it up and have the other guide it out..you can teach them or vice versa. As for the general forum goes...its like why don't you use the Hayne's booklet or something...yeah ...go to the general forum .uhh... no I disagree. it doesn't answer questions that might come up...so you post it here for details...Ive S/C mah max so on and now on a 3.5 turbo project so let me know if you have any questions and i will be glad to answer them as best as possible.
good luck man...ohh...I start on american muscle as well...its always cool to have old skool meet the new.
doublea- Do what you wanna do...a bullet proof auto is kool...as far as pulling everything out...its much easier taking the whole thing out. pretty much unbolt the A/C compressor from motor, so you don't lose any freon, pull out all things that might get in the way. radiator, manifold( for wire harness), Y pipe, and such...there are lots of things that needs to be prepped. If you have a buddy to help it would be great also.after taking most things outIve attach the chain to the exhaust manifold.Its kinda tight but patience and a little bit of skills will pull that out with no problem...Ive done motor swaps and 5 speed swaps left and right and its always cool to have a hand especially when you need to jack it up and have the other guide it out..you can teach them or vice versa. As for the general forum goes...its like why don't you use the Hayne's booklet or something...yeah ...go to the general forum .uhh... no I disagree. it doesn't answer questions that might come up...so you post it here for details...Ive S/C mah max so on and now on a 3.5 turbo project so let me know if you have any questions and i will be glad to answer them as best as possible.
good luck man...ohh...I start on american muscle as well...its always cool to have old skool meet the new.
#11
Hey maxlinegtr, what a great post & answer. I thank you for that it will certainly help me a lot. I wish I had a best buddy like you, we would have a blast. Man you got one cool max out there, next time I travel to California I'llget in touch with you. I have nothing against young people I have 2 kids, my kids & their best friends like to hang with me in the garage once in a while. They like my works and I like to help them in anyway I can. It is sometime the egocentric attitude of some that really pi$$ me off. I mean it's not because you have installed a Y-pipe and FSTB that you are smarther. If those people would meet me face to face, trust me they would call me Mister and would be very polite but because they hide behind a nick name and a computer they think they own the world. I have compassion for them anyway because they dont even know that with this attitude all the door will close in front of them and confusion will be a daily meal for them as they grow up.
Thanks again I will keep that post for when I ready to remove the engine & tranny in a week or so.
AA
Thanks again I will keep that post for when I ready to remove the engine & tranny in a week or so.
AA
#12
I almost have everything that connect to the engine unplug or removed. Now how do I deal with the a/c line ? cuz it look obvious that with the addition of the S/C, the a/c line as to move some where ! I think I found a route to re directe the line but to do so it need to be cut , how do I have to deal with the freon ? Any suggestion on, where to relocate the power steering fluid reservoir ? I shoud be ready to pull the engine maybe this week end.
I'll post some pics over the week-end.
I'll post some pics over the week-end.
#13
the A/C compressor has 4 bolts remove it from the engine...what ever you do ...do not disconnect the A/C line unless you plan on filling it up in the future.I usually let it hang by the radiator slot where the radiator sits.....for the Power steering fluid....take off the bolt and put the resovoir asside...and thats pretty much it...not hard there and tak out any thing that might get in the way of pulling out the motor and trans...
Originally Posted by doublea
I almost have everything that connect to the engine unplug or removed. Now how do I deal with the a/c line ? cuz it look obvious that with the addition of the S/C, the a/c line as to move some where ! I think I found a route to re directe the line but to do so it need to be cut , how do I have to deal with the freon ? Any suggestion on, where to relocate the power steering fluid reservoir ? I shoud be ready to pull the engine maybe this week end.
I'll post some pics over the week-end.
I'll post some pics over the week-end.
#16
Hey JClaw, would you be available to help me remove the engine & tranny when I'm ready ? I'm willing to pay you for your time + free beer, pizza and extras that I cant disclose on this forum. You can call me at the office during the day 514-284-3004
#17
With the power I'd like to put down, it's obvious that I would need new injectors, do I have to replace the fuel rail as well or can I keep it ?
The reason I'm asking is because I'm having all the brackets, fitting, bolts and nuts to be chromed plated in the next few days and I dont want to pay for nothing.
Thanks again for all your support.
AA
The reason I'm asking is because I'm having all the brackets, fitting, bolts and nuts to be chromed plated in the next few days and I dont want to pay for nothing.
Thanks again for all your support.
AA
#18
yup pulling out a FWD motor/ trans is more harder then RWD set up. JClaw is one of those guys that are innovators...he is a true enthusiast for he knowledge he knows...he is a great help when it comes to it all.
#19
I'm still juggling with the idea of building a stronger DEK + S/C versus swapping the for a 3.5 & 6 speed + S/C. Cost wise the VQ35 make sense, but the cost is not my main concern here. There is some aspect that I'm not shure I'll be able to handle versus building the VQ30DEK. If I find some one like JC LAW then that would be another story but since I'm pretty much alone then the VQ sound more appealing to me. This project is probably going to take 18 to 24 months to accomplish if not more, basically I will be stripping the car inside out and redo it. It is something I've wanted to do for a long time.
Here is some pics of the work in progress:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0419.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0022.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0023.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0024.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0025.jpg
A shot a the goodies:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0018.jpg
Good night every one .
Peace.
AA
Here is some pics of the work in progress:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0419.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0022.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0023.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0024.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0025.jpg
A shot a the goodies:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89...a/IMG_0018.jpg
Good night every one .
Peace.
AA
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Wow thats a dirty engine bay! Have you owned the car since new or not?
Id definitely do the 3.5+SC as theres alot of power to be made. Of course you should tune it as well.
It also has pistons and rods and a lot of cams available because its the same as the 350z/G35 VQ35, while the 3L will need custom pistons and rods I believe. The aftermarket of the 3L just isn't there compared to the 3.5L. Thats why my 3L is just staying stock with some cams.
~Alex
Id definitely do the 3.5+SC as theres alot of power to be made. Of course you should tune it as well.
It also has pistons and rods and a lot of cams available because its the same as the 350z/G35 VQ35, while the 3L will need custom pistons and rods I believe. The aftermarket of the 3L just isn't there compared to the 3.5L. Thats why my 3L is just staying stock with some cams.
~Alex
#23
If you do SC your 3.5, you may want to convert your MAFS tune into MAPS tuning with a EU simply because if and when you're making more than 300whp's, your MAF may not have the voltage span to read all of the air that's coming into the engine. EU can correct this by sending in a masked voltage to the ECU, and still use MAPS to precisely tune the SC setup. I'm also speculating a need to use larger injectors as minimal as 370cc's. My opinions, needs criticism to be approved here.
-Peter-
-Peter-
#24
There is a whole lot to do with the 3.5 swap. I'm really not done yet but building the 3.0L was my first option. I bought that car brand new, yup it's dirty as it can be, that what happend when you live in winter land and not to say but the car didn't see the last 2 winters so Imagine 10 years like this, and the car would be good for the scrap yard. It all depend on both option cost, rebuilding the 3.0L with lower compression is not that expensive. As for the 3.5 with 6 speed & ecu I've call couple of place and some are asking up to 4000$ so for that amount I can build a much better engine with the 3.0L but that is my 2 cents.
#25
The 3.0L build up option is inching over the swap. I may just have found a set of Arias pistons for a reasonable price. Now I need to know if I should replace the 3.0L rods or not ? I want to reach the 350-400HP to the wheel.
Any though or suggestions ?
Any though or suggestions ?
#26
Originally Posted by doublea
The 3.0L build up option is inching over the swap. I may just have found a set of Arias pistons for a reasonable price. Now I need to know if I should replace the 3.0L rods or not ? I want to reach the 350-400HP to the wheel.
Any though or suggestions ?
Any though or suggestions ?
#29
I just bought a set of Arias pistons from 5psi an org member, I couldn't get a better deal so thanks to him. I should get the pistons in a week or so. I'll post some pics once I have those.
#30
I forgot to ask, I'm looking to buy head gasket & bolts as well as other gaskets so does anyone know a good place to buy better than original ? or should I just stick with original product and get it from a Nissan dealer.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#31
Finally the engine & tranny are going to be pulled out today if everything goes smoothly. Unfortunately I'll be alone to pull the engine but that doesn't bother me at all since I'm used to work alone most of the time.
I'll post some pics tommorow.
I'll post some pics tommorow.
#32
Thing went pretty smooth, took me about 1:30 to take the engine & tranny off, detached the tranny from the engine and removing the housing.
BTW I was alone to do the job. Here is some shots:
BTW I was alone to do the job. Here is some shots:
#35
You know what, it aint that bad. Earlier tonight I sprayed some parts cleaner on a few area and I was amazed at how clean the paint was, really.
I have pretty much removed everything from the engine bay, I just have few brakets, brake lines, and cables and that will be a done deal as for the undress.
I have pretty much removed everything from the engine bay, I just have few brakets, brake lines, and cables and that will be a done deal as for the undress.
#37
It was easy to unbolt the Y-Pipe, but on the front I had to un-bolt the pre-cats since it was more accessible that the bolts on the Y-pipe.
I'm going to have a lot of stuff for sale soon: Cattman Y-Pipe, AE headlamp, stock spring, stock Y-pipe, stock brake caliper etc.
I'm going to have a lot of stuff for sale soon: Cattman Y-Pipe, AE headlamp, stock spring, stock Y-pipe, stock brake caliper etc.
#38
I'm trying to remove the timing gear cover and this biatch wont come off, I've removed every bolt and the crank pulley with the crank seal, so do I have to force it off or is there something I'm not getting.
Thanks for sharing ideas.
AA
Thanks for sharing ideas.
AA
#39
I found that in order to remove the timing cover we have to remove the crank case first, what the story doesn't say is I cracked the crank case but I'm not shure how it happend, maybe when I pulled the engine, anyway I'm going to buy a second engine so I'll have spare parts laying around if I screw up something. I finished removed everything from the engine bay
yesterday at midnight, the only thing that remain there is the brake booster & brake oil container. I started to clean the engine with some strong part cleaner and I'm amazed at how clean the paint is, but any how I want to paint the engine bay the same color as the car " Sterling mist " I think it's going to be really hot with all the chrome and stuff. I'll keep you posted with pics soon...
Cheers
AA
yesterday at midnight, the only thing that remain there is the brake booster & brake oil container. I started to clean the engine with some strong part cleaner and I'm amazed at how clean the paint is, but any how I want to paint the engine bay the same color as the car " Sterling mist " I think it's going to be really hot with all the chrome and stuff. I'll keep you posted with pics soon...
Cheers
AA
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