Just picked up a v2 kit. thats mostly complete, started ordering everything and making sure i have all i need before i start the install. I've removed and installed this v2 kit a few times on my friends car so i've got a pretty good idea of what i need to do to install it. also ordered matty's v1 conversion plate and 3.33" pulley today.

my only questions remain in the fuel set up and monitoring. I've been reading .org threads for the last 4 days or so and still really havent figured out what to buy. I'll be running the 3.33" pulley, stock charge pipe and vortech bov for now, stock injectors, walboro 255 and the vortech fmu that comes with the v2 with the 8:1 disk.

So my problem is that i want to make sure im not running lean under heavy boost. from what i've read, just buying an a/f gauge with a NB o2 is useless. i'd love to get a wide band but i also need a new y pipe to put it in since mine is garbage. that brings it to over $500 which really isnt in the budget right now since im also doing tien coilovers along with this. I could do an electric fuel preasure gauge but is that really going to help at all? or should i just monitor boost and wait till i have money for a wide band? or is this not even somthing i should be worried about with my set up? im trying to go simple and reliable. Any advice would be great Thanks

- Dan

 

Glad to hear you'll be joining the boosted community! And kudos to you for actually doing some research before posting.

With a 3.33 pulley, you'll be just fine and won't have to worry about going lean. This of course, is all based on a properly installed Walbro and a perfectly functioning Walbro. IMO (and I know some will disagree), if you want a trouble free, simple, safe, and reliable setup, ditch the Walbro and go with a T-rex auxiliary fuel pump.

Since you're on a budget, all you need for now is a boost gauge to make sure your hitting the correct psi. FP and wideband can come later when funds become available.

Also, if you bought a V2 kit, why did you buy the V1 conversion plate if I may ask? That money right there could have bought you a wideband and FP gauge, or other items....

 

Because he is smart and wants to do it right

-matt

 

this particular v2 kit from my friends car use to shred belts all the time, thats why i've had to remove and install it like 9 times. The SC pulley had small bends in the ribs and the tenioner pulley was cracked but still dont want to take chances. Last thing I want is to have to do that again on my own car lol having to put on alternator belts on the side of the road... Would the t-rex really be more reliable then the walboro pump? I still have the t-rex pump we pulled from his car so using that wouldnt really be a problem.

im dying for boost now after ordering the parts, every drive to work is one drive closer to boost.......


- Dan

 

Your fuel set up should provide plenty and you should not be running rich. If you do not want to invest in a WB now then I would think about getting a few pulls done on a dyno with a WB just be be sure the AFR's check out. Shouldn't cost you more than $100 for a couple pulls without any tuning. Then you at least know your safe and have some dyno numbers

 

How did I know you were going to say that? Saw that one coming a mile away


So you buy a V1 plate knowing you had problems with the SC pulley and tensioner pulley. IMO, you didn't even give the V2 plate a fair shot. It's not the V2 plates fault (directly). Shredded belts were changed 9 times knowing you have two problems. Did you think you were going to get lucky on the 3rd, 4th, 5th, ......9th time around? The V1 plate only indirectly fixes your tensioner pulley problem because it allows you to go back to the stock tensioner assembly, hence making the install just a little bit easier and "dummy proof" if you will; meaning you don't have to have all the correct tensioner assembly parts, and all those correct parts in the correct assembling order. With SC kits trading hands so often, I bet the original V2 tensioner assembly parts are no longer intact and/or in the wrong assembling order upon transfer.

Yes, the T-rex pump is more reliable. Walbro's don't like it when you go below a 1/8 tank; this leads to premature failure. Walbro's will also bump your base FP from 34 to 43ish. Don't forget to install the associated parts that go with the T-rex though, if you decide to go that route.

 

well maybe not 9 times, little exaggerated. This kits only been on his car though, i knew the guy that had it b4 my freind bought the car. The original owner got really screwed on the entire thing. He spent over 6k for the kit and install on top of the headers, MEVI and valve body mod in the trany. He ended up selling the car for 4k to my freind which is when the belt shreding issues started. We did change pulleys on the blower and on the last attempt found the tensioner pulley was cracked, changed it and then after another belt shred he got sick of it and wanted it off the car.

Im doing the v1 conversion just as added security, if theres anything I can do to prevent belt shreding then i have no problem doing it, also having a new thermostat housing saves me the time of swaping from his car to mine.

Thanks for the advice though, im going to look through the write up and make sure i have everything to make the trex pump work and try that. I may still look into the wideband, makes sense to do it correct the first time. I've already out stepped my budget by alot so whats another few hundred. Thanks for all the info so far

- Dan

 

i am in your shoes trying to finish up my kit as well. i plan to start with a nice boost/vaccum gauage for now to monitor that and later on will add additional gauges if everything works out as planned and smoothly. trust me i know that those gauges are a pretty penny to add to the parts list. i just spent $70 for a damn oil feed line ! if you are going the triple pod way. i suggest you get the autometer 5776 boost/vaccum for now and later on add the desired gauages. its the best gauge for a s/c max IMO since it shows boost from 0-15 in half digit intervals.


p.s, for your belt shredding issues, based on the homework i have done searching the .org some people say that the stock pulley melts or brakes. some people have used metal pulleys. but for the V1 they are hard to find. i believe TJ_Max discovered a lexus pulley that is metal with no side walls that allows the belt to shift left and right eliminating jumping the pulley wall. im currently in the process of obtaining that part # from him !

happy boosting man, vroooooooom PSTTTTTTTT FTW !

 

i went a little cheaper then that one, i went with the ultra lite ones for cost and they fit my car the best i think. So far I did boost, oil preasure and volt meter to take up space. I also got a scangauge which is pretty awesome if you havent seen one. It tells me air intake temp, exact water temp, engine load, timeing, open or closed loop, and tracks my gas mileage lol in a few months i'll probably replace the y pipe and get a wide band.

only thing that sucks it that the only place i could find triple pods doesnt have them and has to wait for them to be "Speacial ordered" so i have no idea when that'll get here. so i'll probably have no gauges for a while.

be interesting to see which one of us is boosted first, i gotta wait at least a week for my charge pipe to get here from intakehoses.com

 

thats cool. may i ask the part# for the gauges u got. ultralite are pretty nice, my initial choice is phantom series. boost/vac, fuel and oil pressure.

for the triple pod, visit http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/index...PROD&ProdID=94 or
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_acce.asp?...=Nissan_Maxima

i am not in a rush to boost. i have had the kit for over 2 months and im paitiently piecing it together. my mission is to have a headache-free, trouble-free, parts hunt-free install when the sleeves are rolled up. from the looks of it, ill probably be boosting early august. i already have the 3" charge with BOV assembled

 

wow i wish i saw the 2nd place first, i ordered it from glowshiftdirect and planned on painting it to match the interior, hmm maybe i'll try to cancel my order. be much easier to buy one thats already tan

oil preasure - 4327
boost - 4301
volt - 4391

I agree with a trouble free install, im hoping for the same. what BOV did you end up going with?

 

greddy type RS. you should get a fuel pressure too

 

DanIAm,
You have pm.