Hey whats up? I have a turbo max for all that don't know (maybe due to my name missing from the 5gen turbo listing? lol! don't know why that is? or 300whp+ club?) Anyways just got the fidanza flywheel and still waiting for when I get my ACT nm1-xtss clutch kit and my 3rd and 4th gear from par to do the install, probably next week or within 10 days for sure.

-I'm curious how much power I'm going to make with the flywheel weight change?

It usually makes a difference in 1st 2nd and sometimes 3rd gears in most NA applications in getting to red line faster but for me it should make a big difference, at least i hope so, due to my turbo spooling even faster and shifting speed increase!

Most of all i just want my 3rd and 4th after market par gears in, we all know that 5spd is problematic especially 3rd gear and shredding it to pieces with our VQ torque.

I also heard lots of good comments on redline mt-90 gear oil, my friend has a 240 sr20 and the sec he changed his gear oil to mt-90 it started shifting like butter and smooth it does run! Anyone have a better gear oil GL4 rated in mind?

 

Redline should be good or amsoil cause it doesn't seem like alot of gl4 selection out there. About the flywheel I hope you don't throw a code after the swap, something about the crank postion sensor not being able to read that flywheel.

 

hope your wrong about the code? the car is turbo and still no cods except p0420 and my o2 simulator got rid of that!

there are other people who have the flywheel in and have no cods though?

 

I have a Fidanza without a problem. The Crank Position gear mounts to the Fidanza exactly like stock

-matt

 

cool i figured as much yet without certainty all modifications have a chance that they will cause problems or be defective, even stock for stock changes have problems sometimes!

I'm just exited and nervous building up my trans changing 3rd and 4th and having a good clutch and light flywheel!!

I'm a booooooooooooooooooostaholic


BOOST
800857

lol

 

so whats the story i want some input on gear oils, i see a few i like;
-royal purple,(works really well in my engine, wonder what its like in my gears?)
it may be to thin? bad for the syncros maybe. gl4 rated
-neo, gl4 rated, used frequently in many types of racing
-red line, gl4 rated, probably mt-90 I've heard lots of stories of gear problems disappearing with the use of mt-90?
-amsoil, good feedback i think on this oil as far as i can read but no real proof that it makes the difference.
-other brands are out there, I've seen them but these are the four most popular and supposed best for its application to our weak gears.

Some claim gl5 oils are still good with our syncros but i believe that anything that could cause increased risk to them is a big no-no-, so i didn't even bother to look at them.

What about the gear ratio difference with these gtir gears? stock is 1.206(~91mph) for 3rd and 0.954(~115mph) for 4th the new ones are 1.25(~88mph)and 0.935(~118mph), there is a loss of 3mph in third and a gain of 3 in fourth, thus a 6mph difference from stock shifting?http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ons.htm#Maxima


hate to change the subject but question can i run 235/45/17 on my max right now i have 225/50/17

 

flywheels don't make any horsepower, that's not how they work - it's just like lightening your wheels. less mass for your engine to accelerate and the effect is most pronounced in 1st gear, less so in 2nd, less so in 3rd, and unnoticeable in 4th and 5th because that's how the physics of intertia work. it doesn't matter whether you are FI or NA. The only time they "allow your car to rev faster" is in neutral - I don't know where people come up with this myth that you "get to redline faster" with a lighter flywheel. it's just less mass to accelerate when you are in gear, and makes for quicker rev matching in between gears. if you think about it

what about the gear ratio difference? I don't understand if this is a question or a statement. there's nothing you can do about it at this point and the difference is so slight that you are probably not going to notice any difference.

I've used royal purple, it was fine. I'm more a fan of MT-90. when you get down to the molecular level, the dye molecules in colored oils actually take up space that could be occupied by the lubricating molecules themselves. how much difference this makes is unknown to me, but I'll stick with MT-90. It's more proven. I've heard good things about Neo but I have never looked into getting it. GL5 is something you do not want in your maxima.

235-45-17 tires are used by probably half of this message board, they work fine.

XTSS is a pretty good clutch choice for someone in the mid 300whp range who doesn't plan on drag racing with slicks. it's not enough clutch for launches on slicks though most likely.

 

the flywheel will increase your hp by speeding up the time it takes the engine to get to redline on those lower gears thus it makes more power, by decreasing the inertia i think it will make it a little slower on the highway maybe?

I agree with you on the redline mt-90 and the fact that royal purple is purple does make me question how important the color really is. I think you may have reason that the die takes up space!

 

At the most basic level, flywheels do not make the engine create more horsepower. they decrease the rotational mass of the stuff the engine has to spin, which means that the engine has an easier time accelerating and decelerating. it is the exact same principle as having lighter or heavier wheels - your car will get slightly faster with lighter wheels, or slightly slower with heavier wheels. lighter things are easier to accelerate - that's just physics.

So in a sense they will allow more hp to make it to the ground, yes, but the engine itself isn't producing any more power because of it. you can discuss this with any number of drivetrain engineers or physicists, or heck, even people who have taken a basic college level physics course and remember how to do moment of inertia calculations. I've done the MoI calculations in the past, years ago. The effect is just less and less pronounced because torque multiplication drops in each gear so as to be unnoticeable in the higher gears.

here is a perfect explanation of what I'm talking about, with numbers and calculations.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywhee...heel_works.htm

It will make a car feel faster because it is doing less work to accelerate. just like if you put lightweight wheels on. everyone knows though that saying "I put light wheels on my car and now my car makes way more horsepower" is ridiculous, because it's not true.

 

Also, might be a n00b statement. But since there will be slightly less load, wont that have an affect on boost? less load = less boost = retune boost controller? dont know how significant it would be though, might not even be noticeable. Nealoc correct me if im wrong.

 

I am no longer paying $9.00 a quart for gear oil. I buy regular NAPA GL4 and some lucas oil to lube those synchros and get the same effects that you get from Redline/Royal purple or AMSOIL.

 

First of all I know everything your saying Nealoc187 is true and i already new all of it but as you were saying you put the power to the ground better thus the whp will increase and dyno results will show changes and I'm very curious to those changes!!

But thanks for the time you took to give me input!

 

I've decided to use redline mt-90 for my gears, hope its good and works well to protect my syncros!

 

These are pics of my Par gears from AU they still have oil/wax on them to protect them till install!

 

very nice - take some comparison pics with the stock gears once you get the trans apart. how much did they run you - the weakening US dollar surely isn't helping things (assuming you are in the states).

I actually just drove my car today for the first time in months - I'd forgotten about that 3rd/4th gear whine with my straight cut PPGs.

 

I will take lots of comparison pics with the stock gears once they are off sometime next week!!

I live in can and it set me back with shipping and taxes... a total of ~1900$ it wasn't cheap i bought a hole bran new 5spd last summer for 1650can$ from Nissan at 25%off cause i know the owner.

Hopefully when i get into my tranny after less than a year of use my gears, bearings, shafts, syncros and vlsd are still in great shape!

How long did it take or would it take to do the gear change?

I assumed it would take my guy 3-4hours once the tran is off already!!

Did you change your clutch and flywheel at the same time?Nealoc187?

 

Well thats the best ways. Seeing that you usually resurface the flywheel when you do a clutch. I replaced mine with a fidanza. I am getting ready to do another one this week but i am going to just get the inserts.

 

Ya I'll be ripping it all summer so I wanted to reinforce my tran and at the same time new clutch and flywheel made sense!

 

I always used Amsoil untill recently. I bought a tranmission from Meximax and used Redline in it due to me not finding the Amsoil locally. It definately felt different. Not as smooth as the Amsoil and on cold mornings it was a bit worse. Went back to Amsoil last weekend. nice and smooth once again.

 

still want to try redline in my tranny for now but after a few months maybe i'll end up switching for something else!

 

I this. Redline was notchy as hell when cold, and ALMOST as smooth as Amsoil once warmed up... Never used Redline after that. Amsoil FTW

 

Well I really hope not, but maybe I'll change to amsoil in the winter and just use redline for what I expect will be an extremely hot next few months!!

what does it cost to fill the 5spd with the vlsd? how many L

 

my fidanza flywheel 12lbs

 

hi res image of par gear

 

4.25 quarts to fill the VLSD, 4.5 to fill the open diff trans.

just fill it til it starts to dribble out of the fill plug.

 

Cool Thanks I though it was 4L but I guess its just a bit more, I'll do like you said and fill till it starts to dribble out of the fill plug!

 

^ ...with the car down on all four wheels..

 

What does that mean?

 

Do you mean fill it with the car on the ground?

 

Just meant that the car needs to be level, so yes.

 

yes that's what he means. if the car isn't level then you won't get exactly the specified amount of fluid in it if you fill it til it dribbles out.


nealoc187 posting on buddy's computer

 

ACT XT
ACT SS

 

Have fun with the clutch disk......... Should have got a 6 puck or something.

 

Your crazy this full disk is much better than a six puck for me!! Better to drive every day, it will last two to three times longer, less chance of it braking. Easy to engage, a lot less noise and jumping feel! everything about it is better for me, and my application or use!!
It holds 460+hp vs. 500+the 6 or 4 puck does and it doesn't need to hold more than 450! My freaking stock clutch still works with up to 330whp before it starts to slip!
And why do you think the SS(super street disk) cost more than a 6 or 4 puck its because there is more material and it lasts longer and is much more drivable!!

 

I have that clutch combo. It works great for driving on the street and holding the power. At the track on slicks with high rpm launches it gets hot very easily and makes for hard shifting. I am going to have to go with the 6 puck disk if I continue to take it to the track.

 

Honest why abuse? drive the car instead! you'd be surprised that you can still run good times and have fun with out extreme launches and power shifting! The materials that clutch is made of is meant to be abused but there is a limit to everything. The SS vs G4-R4 or G6-R6 is a big difference on the constant track for launches and quicker shifts but it doesn't make much of a difference maybe .1 on the quarter and its not worth the loss of regular drivability!! (Ya most will say more performance + more after market upgrades = less ease of driving) But its not perfectly true because some parts make driving almost the same with about the same increase in performance.

I don't know how often you drive on the streets with ur max but my max is an every day car, I'm even worried a little about the fidanza flywheel's decreased weight, it might make it a little more aggressive on deceleration, but like you and your 6 puck change you want to make, I would like to change it as well!! I feel like decreasing the rotational mass will decrease the chance of gear failure in our RS5F50V or RS5F50A weak trans!

Thank g-d I bought the Par 3rd and 4th, the ACT and Fidanza flywheel it might make this summer a little less at risk of failure! And as I can see from my apartment right now winter is almost over!

!!so exited for summer!!

Montreal

 

You dont lose that much driveablitiy with a puck as long as its sprung. But yea i have a puck clutch.

 

don't loose "that much" but still I'm not such a fan of puck on street cars!
still they are pretty cool just not recommended by anyone I now who's had one or still has one!

 

on slicks the metallic disks make for a very significant time difference - it makes the difference between being able to launch the car hard or having to baby it which can be on the order of .3-.4 seconds, perhaps more. for those of us interested in running the best track times we can on slicks - there is no other option. it's metallic clutch or clutch failure.

the driveability difference is slightly noticeable, but it is not so significant that one would say "oh my gosh I can't drive this clutch every day" - at least not in my opinion.

the fidanza flywheel in my experience has zero effect on the around-town manners of the car, I don't even notice it's there when I'm just tooling around.

 

Cool,
I just don't kill my takeoff ever, only when I'm on the track and even then I can spare .2-.4 or just kill it one time and then let it cool off for a bit!

----"the fidanza flywheel in my experience has zero effect on the around-town manners of the car, I don't even notice it's there when I'm just tooling around."----Nealoc187

Ya sounds good hope its the same for me! But I'm sure I'll notice the difference right away anyways!