First Sc Max..Questions on Setup
04-13-2008, 09:24 AM
#1
First Sc Max..Questions on Setup
Ok, so i'll be Sc-ing the max VERY soon, and im buying up parts right now. I have a few questions.
Now, i already read everything there is to read regarding using an EU, Fuel and fuel Pumps, reclocking the blower, etc.. The questions i have are such.
I plan on being at about 9 PSI on the blower, coupled with a few other goodies i wanna put myself in the 300 Hp club( If not, oh well.. ), but that's not my question. Im an Auto, and my tranny shifts perfectly fine with no issues at all any day of the week right now. Since i sometimes like to have my girl drive, i want to keep the car auto. The car may only see the track MAYBE 3 times a year.
So .. I want to install a Hayden tranny cooler, and Oil cooler for my car, and only run at 9 PSI. My Daily driver habits dont go over 4500 RPM, So i wont see full boost much. Of course i'll have those spirited days. But anyways, I just want input on what the best setup would be ..i was thinking
Wallbro 255 fuel pump
Vortech FMU
Emange Ultimate
Vortech V1 S-trim at 9PSI
Matty's Plate Kit
Lexus Idler pulley ( I have read that there IS a difference in Lexus idler pulleys, In later models it changed, so i'll get the pulley accordingly )
Hayden Tranny Cooler
Oil Cooler
VB Mod
Manumatic Mod
I also read the threads on Fuel management and Sc-ing. I know about the Wallbro 1/8 tank issue, and i'll swap out what i need to from the stock pump so i dont end up with no gas at one point either :-).
One more thing, and i know this is always an Arguing issue when going Sc. So, keeping in mind that my setup is going to be mild ( Sc wise anyways ), and my car will be daily driven alot, i wanted to add the extra insurance of a FMIC, i dont mind loosing 1-2 PSI of boost, i just want the most reliable boost setup. Please, no " GO 5 SPEED OR YOUR GONNA BLOW " comments..i've already been down that arguement path enough ..lol..
Just for some more background, the only other " Performance " mod i have is my cattman catback, but i'll be getting Cattman headers very soon hopefully.
Also, has anyone had to relocate the battery running a FMIC, or even the stock stillen piping setup? If so where did you relocate it in your bay.
Also, some Engine bay pics would be GREAT, if it turns out the the FMIC setup wont return on the investment, im just gonna get a 1 Piece charge made up for me. Also, for those in Jersey, anyone know of a great shop to go get a tune after everything is all setup?
Now, i already read everything there is to read regarding using an EU, Fuel and fuel Pumps, reclocking the blower, etc.. The questions i have are such.
I plan on being at about 9 PSI on the blower, coupled with a few other goodies i wanna put myself in the 300 Hp club( If not, oh well.. ), but that's not my question. Im an Auto, and my tranny shifts perfectly fine with no issues at all any day of the week right now. Since i sometimes like to have my girl drive, i want to keep the car auto. The car may only see the track MAYBE 3 times a year.
So .. I want to install a Hayden tranny cooler, and Oil cooler for my car, and only run at 9 PSI. My Daily driver habits dont go over 4500 RPM, So i wont see full boost much. Of course i'll have those spirited days. But anyways, I just want input on what the best setup would be ..i was thinking
Wallbro 255 fuel pump
Vortech FMU
Emange Ultimate
Vortech V1 S-trim at 9PSI
Matty's Plate Kit
Lexus Idler pulley ( I have read that there IS a difference in Lexus idler pulleys, In later models it changed, so i'll get the pulley accordingly )
Hayden Tranny Cooler
Oil Cooler
VB Mod
Manumatic Mod
I also read the threads on Fuel management and Sc-ing. I know about the Wallbro 1/8 tank issue, and i'll swap out what i need to from the stock pump so i dont end up with no gas at one point either :-).
One more thing, and i know this is always an Arguing issue when going Sc. So, keeping in mind that my setup is going to be mild ( Sc wise anyways ), and my car will be daily driven alot, i wanted to add the extra insurance of a FMIC, i dont mind loosing 1-2 PSI of boost, i just want the most reliable boost setup. Please, no " GO 5 SPEED OR YOUR GONNA BLOW " comments..i've already been down that arguement path enough ..lol..
Just for some more background, the only other " Performance " mod i have is my cattman catback, but i'll be getting Cattman headers very soon hopefully.
Also, has anyone had to relocate the battery running a FMIC, or even the stock stillen piping setup? If so where did you relocate it in your bay.
Also, some Engine bay pics would be GREAT, if it turns out the the FMIC setup wont return on the investment, im just gonna get a 1 Piece charge made up for me. Also, for those in Jersey, anyone know of a great shop to go get a tune after everything is all setup?
Last edited by Scooobay; 04-13-2008 at 12:01 PM.
04-13-2008, 11:55 AM
#2
The tranny cooler will help, but you should also look into getting a VB mod. The #1 killer of auto transmissions is heat. Everytime your transmission shifts, it creates heat. The tranny cooler will help to disapate that, but everytime you shift under a load (ie- boost) it generates a tremendous amount of heat very, VERY quickly. The only way to reduce that is to somehow complete the shift faster, ergo the VB mod.
04-13-2008, 12:00 PM
#3
The tranny cooler will help, but you should also look into getting a VB mod. The #1 killer of auto transmissions is heat. Everytime your transmission shifts, it creates heat. The tranny cooler will help to disapate that, but everytime you shift under a load (ie- boost) it generates a tremendous amount of heat very, VERY quickly. The only way to reduce that is to somehow complete the shift faster, ergo the VB mod.
04-13-2008, 12:03 PM
#4
I would also consider a B&M transmission cooler. The haydens are nice, but here is no way to control the temperature, and there is such thing as too cold when it comes to oil. B&M has transmission coolers that have a built in thermostat, so it only starts working once your transmission is up to proper temp. Just my opinion.
04-13-2008, 12:40 PM
#5
+1 on the B&M.
Installed mine a couple of weeks ago.
I'm also going S/C on an Auto (Hopefully next weekend)
As far as the VB mod, if you're not interested in getting transmission work right now, do a search for the DR Mod for WOT ONLY
This will keep WOT shifts quicker, while the non-WOT shifts shouldn't be too bad for heat as long as you keep an eye on it.
Installed mine a couple of weeks ago.
I'm also going S/C on an Auto (Hopefully next weekend)
As far as the VB mod, if you're not interested in getting transmission work right now, do a search for the DR Mod for WOT ONLY
This will keep WOT shifts quicker, while the non-WOT shifts shouldn't be too bad for heat as long as you keep an eye on it.
04-13-2008, 01:07 PM
#6
It looks like you've done your homework and even read the stickies... 
Your list looks solid except for a few things.
1. EU on a car that will hardly see boost and will maybe see the track 3 times a year? That's overkill IMO. Save your money, skip the extremely time consuming hassle of install (or additional $ for someone to do it) and go with a AFC. If you plan to tune yourself, add a wideband to your list.
2. Manumatic mod? Do you have one? If not, then the odds of getting one are slim and none. Only 5 or 6 were ever made if we're talking about the same thing. Contact Ptatohed, maybe he'll sell you his, as we recently yanked it from his car.
3. FMIC is overkill too for the same reasons as stated in #1. At 9 psi, you don't really need the "added insurance" you speak of.
4. If you do go for a FMIC and EU, do them AFTER you have the SC installed and up and running perfectly for a month. This will cut down on troubleshooting if problems arise.
Your list looks solid except for a few things.
1. EU on a car that will hardly see boost and will maybe see the track 3 times a year? That's overkill IMO. Save your money, skip the extremely time consuming hassle of install (or additional $ for someone to do it) and go with a AFC. If you plan to tune yourself, add a wideband to your list.
2. Manumatic mod? Do you have one? If not, then the odds of getting one are slim and none. Only 5 or 6 were ever made if we're talking about the same thing. Contact Ptatohed, maybe he'll sell you his, as we recently yanked it from his car.
3. FMIC is overkill too for the same reasons as stated in #1. At 9 psi, you don't really need the "added insurance" you speak of.
4. If you do go for a FMIC and EU, do them AFTER you have the SC installed and up and running perfectly for a month. This will cut down on troubleshooting if problems arise.
04-13-2008, 10:53 PM
#8
It looks like you've done your homework and even read the stickies...
Your list looks solid except for a few things.
1. EU on a car that will hardly see boost and will maybe see the track 3 times a year? That's overkill IMO. Save your money, skip the extremely time consuming hassle of install (or additional $ for someone to do it) and go with a AFC. If you plan to tune yourself, add a wideband to your list.
2. Manumatic mod? Do you have one? If not, then the odds of getting one are slim and none. Only 5 or 6 were ever made if we're talking about the same thing. Contact Ptatohed, maybe he'll sell you his, as we recently yanked it from his car.
3. FMIC is overkill too for the same reasons as stated in #1. At 9 psi, you don't really need the "added insurance" you speak of.
4. If you do go for a FMIC and EU, do them AFTER you have the SC installed and up and running perfectly for a month. This will cut down on troubleshooting if problems arise.
Your list looks solid except for a few things.
1. EU on a car that will hardly see boost and will maybe see the track 3 times a year? That's overkill IMO. Save your money, skip the extremely time consuming hassle of install (or additional $ for someone to do it) and go with a AFC. If you plan to tune yourself, add a wideband to your list.
2. Manumatic mod? Do you have one? If not, then the odds of getting one are slim and none. Only 5 or 6 were ever made if we're talking about the same thing. Contact Ptatohed, maybe he'll sell you his, as we recently yanked it from his car.
3. FMIC is overkill too for the same reasons as stated in #1. At 9 psi, you don't really need the "added insurance" you speak of.
4. If you do go for a FMIC and EU, do them AFTER you have the SC installed and up and running perfectly for a month. This will cut down on troubleshooting if problems arise.
How much does the B&M Cooler cost, where can i get it?
04-14-2008, 02:19 AM
#9
Here's where I got mine:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&N=700+400004
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&N=700+400004
04-14-2008, 07:30 AM
#10
Scoob is the Lexus idler pulley a must with Mattys kit. I have Mattys kit and i read somewhere that the Lexus idler pulley is not really needed. I will have to see if I can find the post with that info. Great thread BTW.
04-14-2008, 08:12 AM
#11
I got mine from Summit racing http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
04-14-2008, 09:07 AM
#12
I got mine from Summit racing http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch
See post #9
04-14-2008, 10:41 PM
#13
Scooby Doo, where are you?
Never answered/addressed my manumatic question...
Is this what you're talking about?
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=80
Never answered/addressed my manumatic question...
Is this what you're talking about?
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=80
04-15-2008, 01:40 PM
#14
Scooby Doo, where are you?
Never answered/addressed my manumatic question...
Is this what you're talking about?
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=80
Never answered/addressed my manumatic question...
Is this what you're talking about?
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=80
I've been trying to convince him to go 5spd.
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