secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

Well, my 3.0 isn't as healthy as it once was. It still hauls *** but after street tuning it and having tons of fun all summer its time to get into my yearly winter build. I want to build a beefed up 3.0 to handle boost and some spray maybe. I will probably not stick with the supercharger if my budget allows me, and if I do stick with the supercharger then N2o will be a must. Reason being is that the supercharger power is too peaky. Its fun for highway runs but not so much a 1/4 mile car especially with the 3.0, anyone with a supercharger knows what I am talking about.

I was thinking of doing a 3.5 swap and boosting it with the supercharger but I think a 3.0 turbo would be more reliable and fun.

My intended list is below, if you think I am making a mistake on something feel free to voice your opinion.

Low mileage 2001 DEK (38k, auto)
pathfinder cams
cometic or cosworth head gasket.....(which one should I use?)
ARP Headbolts
VQ35HR springs and rev up retainers
3.5 oil pump

That pretty much sums it up since I dont have alot of $$ to put into this build. I would like to turbo it @ 13-15 psi (too much?)

The turbo setup, I am still researching. I think a gt35r would be too big for the 3.0 but I will take some advice from my other thread and have a turbo specd for my application.

If you guys have any parts for sale that I can use please let me know.

Im not really focused on the turbo setup right now, much more focused into getting the motor put together.

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

whats the best option as far as head gasket?

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

the gt3576 is perfect for our 3.0, not too big at all.

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

^What he said^

If you want to save some money. You can go with a T series turbo with the same specs as the gt35r. I think the T3/60-1 with the TO4S cold side is close to the GT35R. I know it uses the same size housing.. You can pick up A T3/60-1 journal bearing for $650 to $700. And a ball bearing version for $1000. Where the GT35R can run you $1300 to $1400 give or take a few dollars...

GT35R
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT

T3/60-1

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=TBN

Ball bearing T3/60-1

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GTB

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

I honestly recommend that he go with the 62-1 over the 60-1. That's my personal choice and what i plan to run next year.

timmay5835

iTrader: (14)

what are you going to tune it with? If you happen to need a 300zx TT MAF, PM me I have one for sale.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

ARP headbolt I would say no

its cheaper to get HR head bolts ($4 a bolt IIRC) and they are just as good

and Pathfinder cams? why not s1s or knockoff s1s? not too aggressive but just right

or do you like the 3.5 pathfinder cams cause of the less overlap (which is good for supercharging)

as for head gasket go for the Toga Performance ones (importperformancepars.net), I just bought the whole gasket set from them

and if your gonna go turbo and want to push boost, do some VH45 piston rings ($100 IIRC) and a good investment. Which means I would also replace the nut/bolt combo for the connecting rods with new OEM ones.

and if your gonna have the engine tore down, then throw in a 3.5 oil pump for piece of mind as well (I got mine for $15 on ebay)....

maxine'sMan

iTrader: (6)

is there a difference between the cams in a pathfinder vs. other 3.5s?

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

the arp bolts, I am getting a good deal on from a buddy of mine if he sells them I will deff. do the HR ones

I rather do the pathfinder cams cause they don't need cam adaptors and I was told that they are good for boost

I will look into the toga head gasket.....you don't like the cometic?

Piston rings, it would deff be worth it to do at this point.....but would I have to change anything else? Where can I buy the ones you mentioned? But then its like opening a can of worms since I would want to do rod bolts and studs.....would it be worth it?

glad you mentioned the vq35 oil pump, I fergot to put it on my list....


thanks for the feedback, this info helped me out

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

FYI, if those ARP bolts are used, I wouldn't use them....IMO headbolts are only good once. since they really are cheap enough anyways (16 x 4 = 64)

cometic are replica OEMs, togas are performance ones. In the past OEM replica's are never really any good.

as for piston rings and doing the install, if you get the new bolt/nut combo ($50-$70 IIRC) and then the piston rings, once you break those nuts loose tho, the main crank bearings should be replace IMO ($60 for a performance set), you could do it all in an afternoon one cylinder at a time. I would do it IMO, less things to go wrong. DaveB will have the bolt/nut combo and the piston rings and the bearings can be found on importperformanceparts.net

thats all the bottom end work that I am doing on my 3.0, its all piece of mind, spend the $200-230 to upgrade the bottom ends bottlenecks and not really have to worry about anything else (since most of the other parts are pretty strong as is)

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

the ARPs are brand new, the ones im getting....

will look into the toga head gasket

I think you just convinced me to do the rings and rest of the bottom end.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

of course there is always the tools you need, that you forgot about at 1 am in the garage, like a ring compressor LOL.....or you break a torque wrench some how cause you were pissed something broke so you smash your windshield and punch a window in the garage and while you hold an oilly rag over your wound, you try to act tough in front of your friends as you turn pale and your gushing blood and you keep saying that it tis only a flesh wound....those tools are priceless IMO

true story

accordingtou

iTrader: (41)

I have a 3.5 oil pump (non Rev up / HR) lmk
Good luck with build

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I'd say skip the ARP head bolts even if you're buddy doesn't sell them and go for HR bolts as has already been said. For a couple of reasons..


And word has it that cosworth HG's are just repackaged cometic so either will do (didn't think cosworth had a 3.0 application though).

nismology

iTrader: (8)

ARP hardware can be reused. They are not designed to stretch like the stock hardware is.

Doubtful. Where'd you hear that?

JonBlz

iTrader: (11)

yo bish we was talking about all this before kid lolz

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

thanks for the offer but I have the pathfinder cams and the 3.5 oil pump already


do you mean go for the hr bolts cause they're cheaper? or some other reason?


^ yes sir....im trying to piece stuff together

Ghase

iTrader: (12)

Damn how much power are you looking to make here???

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

^ man after seeing how nice your setup is, I found new inspiration........besides driving with the pedal to the floor I figured I might as well beef it up a lil bit.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

Would you reuse headbolts, I wouldn't. For how cheap they are, even if they are ARP, I wouldn't reuse them. Besides HR is really the better route anyways. Just about every bolt that I undo on my engine is going to be replace with a new one. Just too much to risk later on down the road.


Cometic are advertised as OEM replacements unless I was looking at the wrong ones (which I probably was, since I was drinking alot)

EDIT: I was looking at teh wrong ones my bad. I do believe the Toga's have a copper head gasket option if you call them though

nismology

iTrader: (8)

ARP hardware can and has been reused in countless motors with success. That's a fact. Again, they are not designed to stretch like the stock bolts since they don't use the torque-to-yield/angle tightening method. And ARP uses studs to fasten the heads. But again, the HR bolts are superior for this application. We can agree on that.

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

^ why HR? Is it cause of the price? I don't mind the price of the ARP, I just want the motor to hold when I throw lots of boost at it.

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

Go with Arp. My boy dyno'd 410whp with his 3rd Gen. He blew his head gasket in the spring of this year. Replaced it with cometic head gasket and Arp bolts and up the boost. His phone is off right now but when I contact him I will try to get him to come out and you can chat with him.. And maybe look at the setup on his car that he did his self.

You have a few ways you can go about this build. Figure out how much you want to spend and how far you want to go with horse power. And remember, You are reaching the limit of your tranny. And to rebuild it with stronger internals. You will spend $4500 just for the parts from Par engineering...

Take a look at this:
http://forums.nycmaximas.org/showthr...tomicspeedware

I was going to build my motor from bottom up and you see how much it would of cost...

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

I see what ur saying nwell2k3.......the supercharger puts less stress on the tranny since it comes on late on the poweband and is less torquey than turbo........really want to see 500 whp before I put this maxima to sleep and step into a different platform, however I should slap myself into reality and just look for the 425 hp range.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

HR bolts > standard ARP. The consistent clamping force that OEM-style torque-to-yield bolts offer is VERY advantageous. Besides, the standard ARP's can only be torqued to 65 lb-ft. That's not very much. They're not as strong as most people think. There's a Z on my350z that's making > 600WHP with HR head bolts and head gaskets. More expensive does not always mean better.


Another random fact: "Head lift" is not always caused by insufficient clamping force like many are led to believe.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Do you know why exactly his head gasket blew?



Stock VQ30 head bolts are good for 410 WHP easily. HR bolts are considerably stronger. Again, simply throwing money at a motor is not the way to go.

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

ok, I see what you're saying nismology.......HR = better for boost + cheaper



gotta say thanks to all that replied, very grateful for you help and knowledge

secondtonone317

iTrader: (12)

edit....just realiazed this post wasn't directed to me.........lol

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

Last year he dyno'd 410 to the wheel. He lost a race and up the boost and the head gasket went. He fixed the head gasket ran the car and totaled it. Last month he swaped everything over to another 3rd gen and his is running stronger with arp and cometic...


But I will look into Hr..

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

Like I said $4 a bolt from DaveB IIRC

nismology

iTrader: (8)

MSRP on them is $3.63 so they'll be closer to $3/each from DaveB.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

AN even better reason

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

What's the clamping force of the Hr bolts?

Regardless of the cost, the Arp bolts have been used on some of the fastest
cars. They offer different tensile strengths. Their L19 have been used on Vq35de with over 700hp.

http://www.injectedperformance.com/e...t.aspx?ID=4436

I understand what your saying, as far as Hr being cost effective. But, all my friends use Arp head, rod, wheel, clutch bolts and studs. With no issues. So thats why I am going with them. I am not doughting you at all. I'm just saying that they are a proven product, machine shops in my area, use exclusively. And I am talking about 400 to 1000 hp imports and domestics.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

I know all about what L19's are capable of...ditto the 11" and even 12" studs. I'm not even bringing cost into the equation though. I truly believe that HR bolts are better than standard ARP studs, lower cost aside. There are very real advantages to using torque-to-yield bolts. ARP's aren't necessary unless it's EXTREME duty and no maxima has come close to this. If the extra clamping force of L19's or greater isn't absolutely necessary, torque-to-yield > * since it offers way more consistent clamping force around the cylinder.


And like I said before, the "head lift" phenomenon is not always caused by weak head fasteners. More clamping force to fix "head lift" is simply band-aid'ing the situation.


But don't take my word for it. Do some research on TTY fasteners and find out the advantages for yourself.

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

Nismology, I will pm you...I don't want to take over this thread...

nwell2k3

iTrader: (1)

I was also looking at the 62-1 and T3/TO4R( which is the turbo Tilley was going to install on my car, back in the day...lol).

Kzoosho, have you contacted any of the turbo manufacturers about using that turbo on our cars?

bkmaxima

Hey Nimology.. I have been reading alot about the use of the HR gaskets and stups.. I have been seeing some guys on MY350z making some good power on them .. The only thing that i havent seem is updates whats the longevity /reliability .. Are these cars beat on or are the just weekend warriors ... I mean the Hr studs and gaskets can hols upwards of 600whp but for how long ..

Reason im asking is cuz its a rout that i was thinking about taking instead of L19's being that i beat on my car alot , I don't baby it so im looking for something that is going to give me that peace of mind if i was to make upwards 500 hp ..

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

No i haven't but i am going with either a 62-1/T3 or a 62-1/T4. one of the two will be on my car soon.

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

Im pretty sure that the g35 that made 900+hp had stock HG and its supposedly down in the 600hp range and still runs today.

DonSupreme

iTrader: (1)

GT35R too big for your 3.0l v6, hmmmmm I run one on my 1.8L ahha........

[/QUOTE]

So a beefy boosted motor and no piston work?