Yesterday I tried to order the I/C from Treadstone, for a number of reason I could not order successfully from their website no matter wich browser I would use, so I call them and they asked me to send them an e-mail with my coordinate, an hour later I received an e-mail with instruction on how to pay by wire transfert or Western union or send my check before... I was like WTF, I mean I live in Canada not Zimbabwe or Abidjan...

I sent the guys an e-mail saying that even though I like their quality product , their company policies is too rigid for my taste, it leave me without any protection because if I send the money and they decide to cash it and call it a day, there would be nothing I can do beside driving 1500 miles and go kick the guys a$$...

He said they dont take Paypal or CC from foreign country, I simply replied that Canada is just north of USA in the same continent not some bogus country 10 000 miles away.

Anyway I ordered the pipping from Max Red Line and everything when smooth and no problem at all. I guess I'm going to try to find the equivalent I/C from e-bay.

Grrr.....

 

Jason from Treadstone, has replied to my e-mail and forward his explanation, saying he would accept Paypal if I'm a verified member, wich I am. To bad it was to late as I already ordered a Mishimoto Universal Intercooler M Line found here: http://www.krazykustomzonline.com/mi...e-p-34715.html

Jason asked me wich I/C I have ordered, I was kind enough to send him the link and he reply back once more saying this I/C was crap & such, but I didn't respond back nor I will.

I have to admit that even though Treadstone I/C seem to be made of very good quality, I have decided that I can live with an equivalent product even if it's not the same quality.

There is people who need to wake up out there, the world is getting into recession, and I dont think it's a good thing to have an attitude during these tough time.

 

What exactly is "crap" about the new IC you ordered????

 

I think he said they are tube & fin type wich is crap.

Dont get me wrong Treadstone has a good line of I/C product and the quality is there no doubt about that. The other biz where I ordered the I/C called me back to say they dont have it in stock so I cancel the order. I guess I was more pi$$ed about all the lost time than anything, anyway tomorrow is another day.

I might give Jason a call tomorrow and order that biatch, in his last e-mail he said he would take Paypal.

I will probably be in a better mood tomorrow...

 

Both websites claim to be bar and plate designs so I dont really see how one is better then the other in the aspect. However the Mishmoto claims to flow 1250cfm while the Treadstone flows 1000cfm.

 

That is what I tough first, but what do I know in I/C ? I think Mishimoto is also not that bad for the price. I'll take the evening to think about this, hopefully my mind will be clear in the morning and then I'll figure something.

 

IDK, I paid 100 bux for mine and it seems to be working well for me so far.
I couldnt see myself paying big money for one unless I was doing an after cooler like Wizards or I was actually running a nice turbo and actually making some big boost numbers..

 

Ok thanks for your input. With the V2 T trim and a lower compression build engine I should be making good number.

 

Im sure the engine will yeild nice numbers, but I was refrenceing to boost when I mentioned big numbers.

 

I knew what you mean. Basically any properly sized intercooler would work, I dont think the difference in efficiency would make such a difference on 350-400 hp engine, maybe on a 1000 hp engine you can yield like 50-80 HP more but on my car I couldn't care less. I only want to buy a good quality product that will fit nicely.

Thanks for your input.

 

I finally bought the I/C from Treadstone, let just say that the word pleasant was not part of the whole deal here but the I/C worth the money.

 

What diameter piping did you go with?
I have dealt with Treadstone and loved their service.
I went with 2.5 intercooler piping matched with the TR10 intercooler

 

I bought the TRD 10 with a 26" core, the I/O is 3"

 

Just got the piping from Max redline, I can only say that I'm happy with my choice, the pipping is ticker than all the other I've seen ( 2 mm ). It is also all polished and mandrel bent. I'll post some pics later tonight.

Thanks all for your input, I now just need to get the I/C.


I'll post the pics tonight.

Regards

AA

 

I just got the I/C and that thing is huge, I see it's going to be a heck of a challenge to install. Yesterday evening I kind of play with it to see how am I going to fit, well I now think that It's going to sit where the rad support is, I might cut a 3.5" whole into the front frame on both side and have the piping routed that way otherwise I dont see it can fit.

Hey spooledvq35, do you happend to have some pics of your installation, I'd like to see how you installed your I/C. If anyone care to post pics of their I/C set-up, I'd be curious to see how others did with a similar I/C.

Thanks for helping

 

yes the intercooler is huge. It requires removing the crush bar that goes along the front. I do not have any pics of mine installed at this moment but the lower part is bolted to the lower radiator support.

 

What is the width of the IC?
On my 4th gen, Mine is 3" and I had to cut some of the bumper cover to fit it behind it.
And yes, the front bumper support had to be removed in order fit an IC greater then 6" in height.
I also had to notch out a section in the frame under the blower and cut a hole on the opposite side just like a CAI would require.


Here is my old IC with a 6" height


and my newer 12" IC

Completed

 

whats the point of a intercooler that big if your bumper covers more then half of it?
and how much of a psi drop does that thing have?

 

I just went to take my morning coffee in the garage, I've installed the front beam, the bumper and bracket, I think I finally got it squared out... I would say there is 2-3 ways of installing it.

1-) Installation similar to Flava_24/7, but I have a 2k1 so there is an aluminum beam that support the front bumper. I think I will only have to cut an inche into the beam, otherwise if I completely remove the beam, I'll need to figure out a way to attached the bumper to the car, seem like a nice headache to figure this out. I did not mention that this way the fog have to go because the Fog housing have to be cut in order to clear the 3" piping. Another way would be to cut the lower part of the front frame, that would create room between the frame and the fog housing, this way the fog would be saved.

2-) The total sleeper way would be to install the I/C on top of the rad support, since I'm getting rid of the A/C, the condenser gone it leave some nice room up there, but doing it this way involve cutting a 3.5" whole true the frame each side of the car in order for the piping to go the other side, I'm very tempted to go that way, but it is going to be a PITA to do if I cant rent a plasma cutter. I know there is quite a bit of cutting, bracing and welding but this would be the perfect sleeper look as no piping would be visible from the front and I would not loose the fog.

Thanks for sharing pics and toughs, if you guys have ideas please dont hesitate to share it
as I'm not 100% set on how I'm going to do it, but the sleeper look is definitely on the agenda so I'm willing to put some more hours to achieve this.



AA

 

When rolling plenty of air makes its way into the intercooler being that the majority of the intercooler is exposed to incoming air.
Stephen Max had a similiar setup,... well mine is pretty much identical to his and he noticed air temps rising only 10 deg F higher than air going into the blower. He measured this by using a two-channel temperature gauge, with a probe at the blower inlet and a probe at just before the throttle body.
He also stated
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...tercooler.html

Ive only noticed about a 1.5psi loss and thats only reving to 6500. Once I can get the rev limiter raised Im sure I can gain some of that .5 of boost back if not all.
I also havent played with the timing to really make use of the IC, still trying to get the emanage dialed in really good before doing that.

 

I think you mean blower outlet, not inlet. The inlet should be at/near ambient, no need to waste one of your two thermocouples on that. And the "10 degrees higher" is a number that needs more explanation. It would be like me telling you this amp over here is a 500 watt amp. You'd ask me if that was "RMS" or peak wattage. Well, is your 10 degrees at idle, at cruising or at WOT (not to be confused with 'watt' - o.k., bad joke). That 10 degrees is most likely at regular cruising. That's exactly what I see. With my dual intake temperature gauge, there is a 10 degree delta between my two probes (one before my water to air aftercooler and one after). But at full boost/WOT, I'll see a 40 degree degree delta. But even with a 40 degree drop, the temperature after the AC is still way above ambient - not just 10 degrees above. Boost is hot!

 

I didnt do the measuring or comparison, Stephen Max did. I was just using it as a refrence since I am running an IC setup similiar to his, and Im also running his SC setup. It was at cruising, the reason I brought it up was to back the statement of what I had stated earlier about the IC getting plenty of air rolling.

http://forums.maxima.org/3528809-post1.html

http://forums.maxima.org/3532180-post29.html

 

Hey guys, below is the link to my build thread. Yesterday my friend and I decided to see how we are going to fit the I/C, because I have a 5th gen the front beam cannot be remove since it would weaken the front end too much if a collision has to happend, so we manage to cut a part of the beam and still keep enough of it so the front end is still quite strong. We have decided to make our life easier an not install the I/C on top of the rad support, this way it leave enough room to install a tranny cooler and a oil cooler.

We also cut some nice whole in the fender so the piping can get true it, I also decided to have the air filter in the fender instead of in the engine bay. Today we only have to fabricate a bracket for the top portion of the I/C so the front latch is solidly fix as well as the I/C itself. The I/C lower tab are bolted true the rad support by underneath, I might decide to solder the top bolt on top of the rad support to make sure the I/C does not shake and rattle like ****.

That was pretty much the only thing left before I can finally start to prime and paint that engine bay.

If everything goes as planned, the engine bay paint will have a good 2 weeks to completely dry before we start putting back the engine wich is supposed to get back from the reciprocating shop in about 2 weeks.

Here is the link and some shots of our work done yesterday.

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...roject-12.html

 

Just to tease you here is some pics of the hood latch fix.

 

^ Nice work McGyver! Kudos.

 

I tough of sharing if anyone want to replicate. I only forgot to take a good front pics but I will take one later tonight, it will give a better view. We should be priming and painting the engine bay next week-end so hopefully we will start assembling the car back during the holidays. Thanks for the good words, it is always appreciated.

 

take a pic from a distance with the intercooler mounted...

 

The intercooler is still on the car, I'll take few pics before I remove it for the primer & paint.

 

I know. You already said it was Stephen Max who stated it. But, my correction still stands. I don't want people thinking that they'll have ambient+10 degrees going into their TBs with the use of an intercooler. Boost is HOT! You'll never be anywhere near ambient at the TB during full boost. The idea of an intercooler is to bring it from very hot to just hot.

FYI: I have a probe after the AC, before the AC (blower outlet) and I use my AMB button (:brag to get ambient temps. At cruising the blower outlet is usually ambient + 15-20^. The AC knocks off 10 or so^ and the temp ends up being ambient +10^, at cruising. This is what Stephen meant, I'm sure. At full boost, I'll see an upstream temp of 180^ and a downstream of 140^ (basically, regardless of ambient). So, even with an AfterCooler, I am still seeing 140^ intake temps - but that's 40^ less than it would be without the AC.

 

Here some few better pics.






Bought some used Cattman Gen III headers:

 

Good stuff doub. You really should start a new thread. This thread title and these pictures being on page two isn't doing your project justice!

 

Hey ptatohed, you are right, can we merge this thread with my long time thread since it is related.

Here: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...n-project.html

Otherwise if you can move it to a new thread that would be fine with me.

Thank you and have a good one.

AA

 

Are you asking me? Or a moderator? I would just start a new thread here in the FI forum.

 

I tough you were a moderator, Gee I have to stop drinking...Lol

 

just wondering if there are any updates?

 

I got the piping, SS clamp, I/C coupler, we have done eveything and it fit like a glove, foremost the I/C is completely hidden behind the stock bumper. The only draw back is I can no longer use the stock fog light, but I will try to find some smaller HID fog and see if I can fit in the original fog spot, otherwise I'll figure something. I had to remove everything in order to paint the engine bay 2 weeks ago, but I'm slowly starting to re-assemble the car back after work and during the week-end.