Sup guys, well I have an interesting idea as usual lol. Considering I getting into the higher power range (550-600), when speaking with gray99max I thought of an idea.

gray99max cuts nitrous between shifts to help the auto survive through the crazy nitrous torque. So based on this same idea, I thought of a way of doing it but on a turbo automatic! here it is:

to start please save all your "swap a 5sp" comments please, we all know auto's are better

I have a Turbo XS RFL blow off valve, the valve I think its called a push style, basically the turbos pressure pushes on the valve from inside the charge pipe, but also there is a hose (coming from manifold) pushing ontop of the BOV along with the internal spring it has fighting agaisnt the pipes pressure to keep it closed. when you let off the throttle the engine goes into vacum, the line pulls the bov open.

Now my idea is to have a solenoid on the vac line that hooks up to the BOV, throught he emanage i set the solenoid to close that line at 6k RPM, this will force the pipes pressure to open the valve since the valve is not getting opposite force from the hose, making a huge boost leak, then once the tranny shifts, the solenoid will open back up and boost will be back instantly (since turbo never stoppes spinning).

This will significantly prolong the life of the clutches within the tranny since the auto will be shift at almost N/A power, it might actually shift even faster since there wont be any slip at all.

Opinions/Ideas?

Possible issues: the ONLY issue I can think of is for the turbo to overspin, but I think this is not likely because this will happen very quick, also my wastegate reference is at the turbos outlet which is like 12feet of piping away from the manifold pressure, so the time it takes to respond to the sudden leak the turbo wont have a chance to overspin.

 

Sounds like a good idea! Is your bov before or after the maf?

 

Before, which is perfect for this little experiment.

 

That should work great then. If it was after, I would be worried about it running really rich and/or backfiring when it shifts.

 

Really like this idea, guess it would work with a supercharger as well too. My only question is if they have pass through selenouds like that. I'm sort of new to manifold pressure aspects of FI setups. The idea sounds like the solenoid would just have to be wired as always on and off during the shift window.

 

You'll have to use a specific kind of solenoid that doesn't just close the connection between the manifold and the bov. It would also have to let the bov's vacuum line see atmospheric pressure or maybe even vacuum from a vacuum canister when the solenoid is activated. If the solenoid just closes the connection between the manifold and bov, the boost pressure will get trapped in the bov's vacuum line and it won't open. If you don't have a solenoid that accomplishes this, then you could use two regular solenoids.

 

Actually yea this would also work on a SC setup, which is more common than Turbo + auto.

I have a GM Solenoids, regular one nothing special. when closed it allows flow between two openings, when it activates completely (100% duty cycle), it alters the flow and goes out/in to a third opening.

So say your at 15psi of boost, in the middle of 3rd gear. The solenoid will be not powered, your using the barbs that have flow passing through them. So basically at 6200rpm when you power the solenoid, it will redirect the flow and vent the manifold pressure outside of the hose instead of going into the top of the BOV. Since now no pressure is on top of the BOV the boost from inside the chargepipe will then force it open. It makes perfect sense to me and I cant possibly see a way that it wouldnt work, just gotta try it out.

Now something i thoguth about, well since all the pressure from pipe and also the top of the BOV is gone, how would it close back up when u get into the next gear.... well i answered it myself when i thought about it, and thats the spring inside the BOV, it will close it shut.

If this works man, this is going to be golden!!! even faster shifting, longer life for the auto, etc...

 

That solenoid should work just fine.

 

Good idea. It reminds me of the trd ebc for the 1mz s/c. Once the trans shifts all of a sudden you will have full boost dropkick the trans in the face. It might be beneficial to have a "progressive boost controller" otherwise traction might be an issue as well.

 

Well this is for track use, since on the street there is no traction at all unless I do high MPH roll-races which I dont nor do I recommend it. At track I have slicks ofcourse.

 

since when are you in the 550-600whp area? or do you mean you plan to be in that range?

btw, swap in a built 5spd

 

Soon to be, I just havent had the time to put in the bigger turbo.

 

When do you think you'll be able to test this? Cause I'm going to be installing my supercharger here in the next couple weeks, and would like to know if this will work since I know I'm going to have a heavy right foot after it goes in

 

http://www.jimesmaxima.com/DR%20Mod.html

 

Keep up the good work. I think if it's executed correctly it will work. It will happen so fast but when the trans shifts with this mod and it's in the next gear already seeing full line pressure it will work. Just get the timing of the bov right. Amazing how these automatic transmissions work pretty well for the strip.

 

not sure yet, so far lately when i WOT i let off between shifts, and it goes into the next gear instantly but i gotta rebuild boost since BOV goes off, I havent had time to test out this idea yet. hopefully soon, if the tranny will let me lol, its hurting.

 

UPDATE:

I tested out this idea, but it did not work. The idea itself didnt fail, but the problem is that the solenoid's barbs are too small, so it does not flow enough vacumm to even open the BOV, so yea the turbo was surging as if no BOV existed.

So now I have to find a solenoid that flows more air.

 

Well I finally got a real quality solenoid (same one AEM uses), and did not work!!!

There was no sign of the BOV wanting to open at all, even through datalogging.

So two possible solutions:

Make the spring pressure alot weaker (by removing all the washers I have in there), this should really make it open, I dont see how it wont unless that spring is really that strong.

Or get a vacuum canister and hook it up to the 3rd port of the solenoid, so at 6k RPM not only does it stop pressure from going into the BOV's top but applies vacuum BOV and pulling it, that HAS to work.

Now that I think of it, I think the vacuum canister idea might be better, so I can keep a strong spring pressure in there and also it will close alot faster.

 

^ ahh gotcha, I got you on the canister...we'll try to link up sometime this week.

 

While that might help, you may want to look at building the transmission, and definitely add a massive cooler. It's still inevitably a matter of time.

 

Build is on it's way, and the cooler that covers 1/3 of the radiator and is almost an inch thick is already in place

 

Eddie Eddie Eddie, your selling the SuperSport and got yourself a Break My Wallet ?

Neways my boi owns Mwerks..but hes up this way in Copans if you need parts or what not/performance

 

did you get a chance to try it with a vacuum canister yet?

 

nah not yet, I should be getting a canister from my boy NiZMo1o1 soon, when we meet up. school has me by the ****

 

Like 95blkmax mentioned, I already have the biggest cooler AdvanceAuto carries, MAYBE id get a more efficient one (dont think it will make a diff). As for a tranny build, I am not going to build an auto as it will cost at least $4,000, even if it was $1,000 I will not build it. However, I do have a transgo shiftkit that will be installed on the next auto I will put in, that along with the cooler, increase line pressure, and synthetic fluid should give me another 4-5 years hopefully, specially if this idea works.

Autos are cheap ($250 bucks 70k miles) so I rather spend that much every few years than spend thousands.

I know I have not been putting this amount of power through the auto before, but I have been seriously abusing it for the last 5 years or more and considering it has 170k on it, i think thats pretty good that its still holding up.

 

yo yo! Thanks for the offer, I'll keep it in mind. But man you know me, I dont let anyone touch my car .


Streetz! This is officially the theme song for your transmission...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBR2G-iI3-I

(I love this smiley, sorry MDeezy LOL!)

 

Almost there. I can't wait to see how this works out.

 

if anything add a fan to the cooler , temps will be lower , trans should run nicer (esp in our summer)

anyways hit me up , canister got your name on it.

 

Hi All
I need info on preparing the FWD RE4FO4 V tranny for turbo type torque,
can any thing be done with the tranny computer?
any info will be appreciated

planning my build
FWD vq 3.5 in a Nissan Primera
thanks
spector

 

cool idea. Toyota have something similar as in when you have an auto with the twin turbo motor (1jz/2jz), the ecu retards the timing a little just before the trans shift into the next gear so the trans dont take a beating from the torque.