Originally Posted by grey99max (Post 6330850)

Yup - I did this - maybe 2 years ago - to get enough spark for my sprayed 3.0. It's pretty simple to install - there is one common feed wire for all the coils going through one of the connectors up by the battery. It's listed in the FSM.

The power supply has some connectors for IN and OUT - cut off the connectors to get to bare wires. There is one pair for IN and one pair for OUT. Connect the ground wires together and connect to the battery (-) terminal. Once you locate the red wire going into the connector for coil power, snip it and connect the power supply IN (+) wire to the harness side and connect the OUT (+) wire to the connector. Set the slide switch to 15 volts initially, and your car will start right up, if you get it right.

Be sure and protect the power supply from rain water. I mounted mine in front of the battery, where it's easy to change.

Need more spark? Set the output to 16 volts. This power supply will go much higher, but your coils might not like 22 volts.:D

Originally Posted by Mad-MAX_SE (Post 7688268)

Do you think this would be effective for use on the fuel pump? I've noticed some disparity in output pressure based on voltage differences (Part of it might be my alternator starting to go out it would seem).

Originally Posted by Mad-MAX_SE (Post 7688268)

Do you think this would be effective for use on the fuel pump? I've noticed some disparity in output pressure based on voltage differences (Part of it might be my alternator starting to go out it would seem).

Originally Posted by grey99max (Post 7688490)

Good thinking - I have a Walbro 255lph HP in the tank, and noticed large voltage changes while using two sets of nitrous solenoids, so I got the 120-watt version of the Boosta power supply, hooked a 40-amp relay in place of the original fuel pump wiring, then ran the big power supply from my #10 12 volt buss wire from the battery through the relay.

This way, the pump is controlled in the same way that the stock pump is managed, but the Walbro gets a very stable voltage. I set mine to 15 volts and ran the power through a couple of 10-amp rectifier diodes, which drop about .75 volts each, which gives the pump 13.5 volts until the battery drops to 11 volts. I put a 1000mfd capacitor across the pump to soak up the voltage spikes from the pump, and all is good. For a later project, I'll raise the pump voltage to 15 volts when racing. You gotta love these switchable power supplies.

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Originally Posted by t6378tp (Post 7688402)

just hard wire it

Originally Posted by grey99max (Post 7688490)

Good thinking - I have a Walbro 255lph HP in the tank, and noticed large voltage changes while using two sets of nitrous solenoids, so I got the 120-watt version of the Boosta power supply, hooked a 40-amp relay in place of the original fuel pump wiring, then ran the big power supply from my #10 12 volt buss wire from the battery through the relay.

This way, the pump is controlled in the same way that the stock pump is managed, but the Walbro gets a very stable voltage. I set mine to 15 volts and ran the power through a couple of 10-amp rectifier diodes, which drop about .75 volts each, which gives the pump 13.5 volts until the battery drops to 11 volts. I put a 1000mfd capacitor across the pump to soak up the voltage spikes from the pump, and all is good. For a later project, I'll raise the pump voltage to 15 volts when racing. You gotta love these switchable power supplies.

Originally Posted by Kevlo911 (Post 7688509)

Impressive stuff on the fuel pump stuff


Yea, this is why I wanted to check with my voltmeter, since the power supply had such thin wires I wanted to make sure it was doing it's job.

BTW, any car updates?

Originally Posted by Mad-MAX_SE (Post 7688569)

My car doesn't have the fuel pump drop resistor, so hard wiring won't affect the voltage the pump sees (at least from my observed voltages - if anything I would only hard wire it to ensure it stays at a high amperage).



Would there be any cause for concern running the pump at a constant, say 14v? My voltage varies from 12.5 (again alternator on its way out or a short somewhere) at a stop light to 14.5v at WOT at 3-4k rpm then trails off down to 13.7ish at red line. I have noticed upwards of a 10psi difference (while N/A) due to the ~2V difference.

Originally Posted by grey99max (Post 7688615)

Which pump are you using? If it's not at least a 255lph Walbro, don't bother juicing it up - but I've seen a chart somewhere of the output/pressure with different voltages, and I'm almost sure the chart had voltages higher than 12.5 volts. If it lives at 14.5 volts from the battery, the power supply will go up to 22 volts. :eek:

Originally Posted by doublea (Post 7702080)

Thanks for this info, I'm not that good at reading electrical plan, but I'll give it a try later today.

Originally Posted by panda_1 (Post 7702291)

ok, i believe i found it...... its a relay inside one of the black boxes under the hood that says engine control, would that be the relay in question? it is located righ in fron of the battery, havent pulled it out yet to see if it contains a red wire or not but am i at least on the right path?

Originally Posted by doublea (Post 7702499)

Sorry to break in, but this is directly related to your question.

Check my thread, I just posted some useful informations,pics & links, but I also need confirmation:: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....28#post7702428

Thanks greymax, you & Kevlo have helped me a lot and I appreciate it very much.

Originally Posted by panda_1 (Post 7701850)

ok, the harnesses are not the same for a 5th gen, diff color wires and i do not have a thick red wire as shown in the pic. any help?

Originally Posted by panda_1 (Post 7702866)

ok, success on a 5th gen, couple tips to make it quicker..... as said negatives together tapped to battery, then your positive input (car charger end) attaches to relay and the output end to the wire coming out of the relay and voila as stated car fired right up.

Originally Posted by MoncefA33 (Post 7706446)

Panda, do you have any impressions of boosting coilpack voltage on an N/A car so far?

Originally Posted by OC_Nooby (Post 7720424)

Key question right there...

Whats the idea behind this? Is to get a bigger stronger spark to prevent blow outs? quicker starts? better response?

I'm trying to understand the pro's behind this, seeing as many of the hot shots are doing it :cool:

I do notice that in my car if I was to downshift and still be in boost my meth kit will activate and for a sec I would have a blowout as it spikes with richness. Will this help prevent this? or its my tune, prolly my tune >_<.

Just trying to understand

Thanks

Originally Posted by OC_Nooby (Post 7720616)

So you will get a bigger strong spark, no need to gap as much, prevents spark blowout. Now one can just gap it and not have spark blowout. What would one gain to go for more voltage to the coils vs just gapping the sparkplugs.

Again, trying to understand. I searched this topic, many mixed feelings.

Originally Posted by OC_Nooby (Post 7720833)

I shall try it and go from there. Will re gap to something bigger then my 0.026 :(

Originally Posted by Flava_24/7 (Post 7721090)

Wow, thats tiny. I thought my gap was small. Im running a gap of .028
Anything above that and I was experiencing blowout.
Im also using this laptop adapter to increase spark,..... however I cant remember if its set to 14 or 16v. Will be checking that today. If it is at 14 I will be increasing the voltage, and I too will be bumping up my gap.

Originally Posted by t6378tp (Post 7721178)

wow thats tight .026 and .028, hows your gas mileage

Originally Posted by panda_1 (Post 7906392)

sorry i havent answered back since i put it in.... but, how can you tell if this thing is failing? just put a multimeter to it and see whether or not its dishing out the 16v?