Greymax's Coil Booster with pics
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 35,755
From: Lake Orion, MI
Greymax's Coil Booster with pics
http://www.powerstream.com/dcdc.htm
PST-P90W power supply is the one we need.
Here are the mini instructions from grey
That is the wire you want to tap.
Now I was skeptical since the wires are so small and since the part is so cheap. So as I was changing my plugs today I decided to see if the booster really works.
Here it is
This is it set at 15v
And at 16v
I am going to keep it at 16v and my gap on the plugs is around .033/.034
I am sure I can run this safely now w/o blow out.
PST-P90W power supply is the one we need.
Here are the mini instructions from grey
Yup - I did this - maybe 2 years ago - to get enough spark for my sprayed 3.0. It's pretty simple to install - there is one common feed wire for all the coils going through one of the connectors up by the battery. It's listed in the FSM.
The power supply has some connectors for IN and OUT - cut off the connectors to get to bare wires. There is one pair for IN and one pair for OUT. Connect the ground wires together and connect to the battery (-) terminal. Once you locate the red wire going into the connector for coil power, snip it and connect the power supply IN (+) wire to the harness side and connect the OUT (+) wire to the connector. Set the slide switch to 15 volts initially, and your car will start right up, if you get it right.
Be sure and protect the power supply from rain water. I mounted mine in front of the battery, where it's easy to change.
Need more spark? Set the output to 16 volts. This power supply will go much higher, but your coils might not like 22 volts.
The power supply has some connectors for IN and OUT - cut off the connectors to get to bare wires. There is one pair for IN and one pair for OUT. Connect the ground wires together and connect to the battery (-) terminal. Once you locate the red wire going into the connector for coil power, snip it and connect the power supply IN (+) wire to the harness side and connect the OUT (+) wire to the connector. Set the slide switch to 15 volts initially, and your car will start right up, if you get it right.
Be sure and protect the power supply from rain water. I mounted mine in front of the battery, where it's easy to change.
Need more spark? Set the output to 16 volts. This power supply will go much higher, but your coils might not like 22 volts.
That is the wire you want to tap.
Now I was skeptical since the wires are so small and since the part is so cheap. So as I was changing my plugs today I decided to see if the booster really works.
Here it is
This is it set at 15v
And at 16v
I am going to keep it at 16v and my gap on the plugs is around .033/.034
I am sure I can run this safely now w/o blow out.
Do you think this would be effective for use on the fuel pump? I've noticed some disparity in output pressure based on voltage differences (Part of it might be my alternator starting to go out it would seem).
This way, the pump is controlled in the same way that the stock pump is managed, but the Walbro gets a very stable voltage. I set mine to 15 volts and ran the power through a couple of 10-amp rectifier diodes, which drop about .75 volts each, which gives the pump 13.5 volts until the battery drops to 11 volts. I put a 1000mfd capacitor across the pump to soak up the voltage spikes from the pump, and all is good. For a later project, I'll raise the pump voltage to 15 volts when racing. You gotta love these switchable power supplies.
.
Last edited by grey99max; Aug 12, 2010 at 06:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 35,755
From: Lake Orion, MI
Good thinking - I have a Walbro 255lph HP in the tank, and noticed large voltage changes while using two sets of nitrous solenoids, so I got the 120-watt version of the Boosta power supply, hooked a 40-amp relay in place of the original fuel pump wiring, then ran the big power supply from my #10 12 volt buss wire from the battery through the relay.
This way, the pump is controlled in the same way that the stock pump is managed, but the Walbro gets a very stable voltage. I set mine to 15 volts and ran the power through a couple of 10-amp rectifier diodes, which drop about .75 volts each, which gives the pump 13.5 volts until the battery drops to 11 volts. I put a 1000mfd capacitor across the pump to soak up the voltage spikes from the pump, and all is good. For a later project, I'll raise the pump voltage to 15 volts when racing. You gotta love these switchable power supplies.
.
This way, the pump is controlled in the same way that the stock pump is managed, but the Walbro gets a very stable voltage. I set mine to 15 volts and ran the power through a couple of 10-amp rectifier diodes, which drop about .75 volts each, which gives the pump 13.5 volts until the battery drops to 11 volts. I put a 1000mfd capacitor across the pump to soak up the voltage spikes from the pump, and all is good. For a later project, I'll raise the pump voltage to 15 volts when racing. You gotta love these switchable power supplies.
.
Yea, this is why I wanted to check with my voltmeter, since the power supply had such thin wires I wanted to make sure it was doing it's job.
BTW, any car updates?
My car doesn't have the fuel pump drop resistor, so hard wiring won't affect the voltage the pump sees (at least from my observed voltages - if anything I would only hard wire it to ensure it stays at a high amperage).
Would there be any cause for concern running the pump at a constant, say 14v? My voltage varies from 12.5 (again alternator on its way out or a short somewhere) at a stop light to 14.5v at WOT at 3-4k rpm then trails off down to 13.7ish at red line. I have noticed upwards of a 10psi difference (while N/A) due to the ~2V difference.
Good thinking - I have a Walbro 255lph HP in the tank, and noticed large voltage changes while using two sets of nitrous solenoids, so I got the 120-watt version of the Boosta power supply, hooked a 40-amp relay in place of the original fuel pump wiring, then ran the big power supply from my #10 12 volt buss wire from the battery through the relay.
This way, the pump is controlled in the same way that the stock pump is managed, but the Walbro gets a very stable voltage. I set mine to 15 volts and ran the power through a couple of 10-amp rectifier diodes, which drop about .75 volts each, which gives the pump 13.5 volts until the battery drops to 11 volts. I put a 1000mfd capacitor across the pump to soak up the voltage spikes from the pump, and all is good. For a later project, I'll raise the pump voltage to 15 volts when racing. You gotta love these switchable power supplies.
This way, the pump is controlled in the same way that the stock pump is managed, but the Walbro gets a very stable voltage. I set mine to 15 volts and ran the power through a couple of 10-amp rectifier diodes, which drop about .75 volts each, which gives the pump 13.5 volts until the battery drops to 11 volts. I put a 1000mfd capacitor across the pump to soak up the voltage spikes from the pump, and all is good. For a later project, I'll raise the pump voltage to 15 volts when racing. You gotta love these switchable power supplies.
Last edited by Mad-MAX_SE; Aug 12, 2010 at 06:45 PM. Reason: typo
The car? After I replaced what the vandals stole off the trailer - again - over the 4th of July weekend, I had to rebuild the battery and winch mounts so I could take everything off and on easily, then repair all the wiring they cut off the trailer... I had a "friend" track down the turkey responsible. He ain't coming back....The engine is sitting on a wheeled pallet with straps, and the car is prepped for a short trip to my mechanic. The long heat wave here ( 100+ , heat index = 115+ ) is what I'm waiting on now. Soon...
Last edited by grey99max; Aug 12, 2010 at 07:20 PM.
My car doesn't have the fuel pump drop resistor, so hard wiring won't affect the voltage the pump sees (at least from my observed voltages - if anything I would only hard wire it to ensure it stays at a high amperage).
Would there be any cause for concern running the pump at a constant, say 14v? My voltage varies from 12.5 (again alternator on its way out or a short somewhere) at a stop light to 14.5v at WOT at 3-4k rpm then trails off down to 13.7ish at red line. I have noticed upwards of a 10psi difference (while N/A) due to the ~2V difference.
Would there be any cause for concern running the pump at a constant, say 14v? My voltage varies from 12.5 (again alternator on its way out or a short somewhere) at a stop light to 14.5v at WOT at 3-4k rpm then trails off down to 13.7ish at red line. I have noticed upwards of a 10psi difference (while N/A) due to the ~2V difference.
Which pump are you using? If it's not at least a 255lph Walbro, don't bother juicing it up - but I've seen a chart somewhere of the output/pressure with different voltages, and I'm almost sure the chart had voltages higher than 12.5 volts. If it lives at 14.5 volts from the battery, the power supply will go up to 22 volts.
Thing is, not to go off track too much, but I think I would benefit more from larger injectors (though the 3.5 is going to be in here very shortly which likely lower my fuel pressure needs). My fuel pressure is already getting kind of high (~70ish psi - depending on voltage), so hopefully I can keep it a bit lower with the slightly larger injectors on the 3.5.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 35,755
From: Lake Orion, MI
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2000.5_Maxima/ec.pdf
EC-587 Red wire coming out of the ECM Relay Pin7
EC-587 Red wire coming out of the ECM Relay Pin7
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 35,755
From: Lake Orion, MI
ok, i believe i found it...... its a relay inside one of the black boxes under the hood that says engine control, would that be the relay in question? it is located righ in fron of the battery, havent pulled it out yet to see if it contains a red wire or not but am i at least on the right path?
ok, i believe i found it...... its a relay inside one of the black boxes under the hood that says engine control, would that be the relay in question? it is located righ in fron of the battery, havent pulled it out yet to see if it contains a red wire or not but am i at least on the right path?
Check my thread, I just posted some useful informations,pics & links, but I also need confirmation:: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....28#post7702428
Thanks greymax, you & Kevlo have helped me a lot and I appreciate it very much.
Sorry to break in, but this is directly related to your question.
Check my thread, I just posted some useful informations,pics & links, but I also need confirmation:: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....28#post7702428
Thanks greymax, you & Kevlo have helped me a lot and I appreciate it very much.
Check my thread, I just posted some useful informations,pics & links, but I also need confirmation:: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....28#post7702428
Thanks greymax, you & Kevlo have helped me a lot and I appreciate it very much.
You could always check for continuity between the common power wire to the coils and each wire on the black connector (ignition off, of course). That'll tell you which it is.
ok, success on a 5th gen, couple tips to make it quicker..... as said negatives together tapped to battery, then your positive input (car charger end) attaches to relay and the output end to the wire coming out of the relay and voila as stated car fired right up.
Yo sorry i didnt answer bro, but good to know u got it done.
Whats the idea behind this? Is to get a bigger stronger spark to prevent blow outs? quicker starts? better response?
I'm trying to understand the pro's behind this, seeing as many of the hot shots are doing it
I do notice that in my car if I was to downshift and still be in boost my meth kit will activate and for a sec I would have a blowout as it spikes with richness. Will this help prevent this? or its my tune, prolly my tune >_<.
Just trying to understand
Thanks
Key question right there...
Whats the idea behind this? Is to get a bigger stronger spark to prevent blow outs? quicker starts? better response?
I'm trying to understand the pro's behind this, seeing as many of the hot shots are doing it
I do notice that in my car if I was to downshift and still be in boost my meth kit will activate and for a sec I would have a blowout as it spikes with richness. Will this help prevent this? or its my tune, prolly my tune >_<.
Just trying to understand
Thanks
Whats the idea behind this? Is to get a bigger stronger spark to prevent blow outs? quicker starts? better response?
I'm trying to understand the pro's behind this, seeing as many of the hot shots are doing it
I do notice that in my car if I was to downshift and still be in boost my meth kit will activate and for a sec I would have a blowout as it spikes with richness. Will this help prevent this? or its my tune, prolly my tune >_<.
Just trying to understand
Thanks
I have been trying it today on my newly installed built engine - it seems to still work OK.
So you will get a bigger strong spark, no need to gap as much, prevents spark blowout. Now one can just gap it and not have spark blowout. What would one gain to go for more voltage to the coils vs just gapping the sparkplugs.
Again, trying to understand. I searched this topic, many mixed feelings.
Again, trying to understand. I searched this topic, many mixed feelings.
So you will get a bigger strong spark, no need to gap as much, prevents spark blowout. Now one can just gap it and not have spark blowout. What would one gain to go for more voltage to the coils vs just gapping the sparkplugs.
Again, trying to understand. I searched this topic, many mixed feelings.
Again, trying to understand. I searched this topic, many mixed feelings.
??
Anything above that and I was experiencing blowout.
Im also using this laptop adapter to increase spark,..... however I cant remember if its set to 14 or 16v. Will be checking that today. If it is at 14 I will be increasing the voltage, and I too will be bumping up my gap.
Last edited by Flava_24/7; Sep 4, 2010 at 07:45 AM.
Wow, thats tiny. I thought my gap was small. Im running a gap of .028
Anything above that and I was experiencing blowout.
Im also using this laptop adapter to increase spark,..... however I cant remember if its set to 14 or 16v. Will be checking that today. If it is at 14 I will be increasing the voltage, and I too will be bumping up my gap.
Anything above that and I was experiencing blowout.
Im also using this laptop adapter to increase spark,..... however I cant remember if its set to 14 or 16v. Will be checking that today. If it is at 14 I will be increasing the voltage, and I too will be bumping up my gap.
sorry i havent answered back since i put it in.... but, how can you tell if this thing is failing? just put a multimeter to it and see whether or not its dishing out the 16v?
Make sure you using a digital meter, i had a cheap analog one which didnt pick up the difference between 12v and 16v, and because of it I bought a 2nd one, to then find out the 1st one is still good lol.
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