How to start up a new turbo setup???
08-29-2010, 05:14 PM
#1
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How to start up a new turbo setup???
Hey guys,
Tomorrow I'm FINALLY getting my downpipe finished and starting to mock everything up. I'm not going to get her running for a while but I need to know how I should initially start the car.
1) I have a vafcii installed w/ a lc1 but also have emanage blue sitting at home. Is it safe for low boost to use the vafcii?
2) I'm not looking for that much power (at least at first), what boost level should I start at? Like 5-7psi???
3) Should I somehow prime the turbo with oil before startup?
4) I have an HX35, can someone help me with oil lines? I'm kind of confused on how much pressure is required and I believe stock pressure is too high for the turbo's seals. I think streetz reduced the pressure using inline no2 jets. What kind of restrictor, if any, is required?
Thanks all!
~DF
Tomorrow I'm FINALLY getting my downpipe finished and starting to mock everything up. I'm not going to get her running for a while but I need to know how I should initially start the car.
1) I have a vafcii installed w/ a lc1 but also have emanage blue sitting at home. Is it safe for low boost to use the vafcii?
2) I'm not looking for that much power (at least at first), what boost level should I start at? Like 5-7psi???
3) Should I somehow prime the turbo with oil before startup?
4) I have an HX35, can someone help me with oil lines? I'm kind of confused on how much pressure is required and I believe stock pressure is too high for the turbo's seals. I think streetz reduced the pressure using inline no2 jets. What kind of restrictor, if any, is required?
Thanks all!
~DF
08-29-2010, 05:40 PM
#2
1) I would just install the emanage because you may want some timing control later.
2) Everybody says low boost at first
. As far as boost pressure, can't really say, make sure your wideband is not reading lean under boost.
3) You can put some oil in the turbo before you crank it, I pulled my fuel pump fuse prior to install and cranked it a few time to get the oil in there.
4)You need a restrictor if it smokes under boost or you notice it blowing oil past the seals. Stealthmode performance.com sells a restrictor, someother places too.
2) Everybody says low boost at first
. As far as boost pressure, can't really say, make sure your wideband is not reading lean under boost.3) You can put some oil in the turbo before you crank it, I pulled my fuel pump fuse prior to install and cranked it a few time to get the oil in there.
4)You need a restrictor if it smokes under boost or you notice it blowing oil past the seals. Stealthmode performance.com sells a restrictor, someother places too.
08-29-2010, 08:08 PM
#3
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YESSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
8D Thanks a ton!
Ohh and one more quick question....I have 440's that I got used years ago and I wasn't planning on installing these right away. <-- I hope that's safe. I should get these flow tested right? Deacshworks (sp?) is what I've seen some members use, are there better alternatives?
Guess that's two questions, but yeah. I'll be posting pics as soon as this gets started. All I should have to get now are the oil lines (once everything's welded that is)!!
8D Thanks a ton!
Ohh and one more quick question....I have 440's that I got used years ago and I wasn't planning on installing these right away. <-- I hope that's safe. I should get these flow tested right? Deacshworks (sp?) is what I've seen some members use, are there better alternatives?
Guess that's two questions, but yeah. I'll be posting pics as soon as this gets started. All I should have to get now are the oil lines (once everything's welded that is)!!
08-29-2010, 08:27 PM
#4
Whats up. You should get the oil from the filter location, such as using a sandwhich plate. I used a 4an line, you can start with a .053 restrictor and work your way down if you have smoke. You can put a few drops of oil into the inlet and spin the turbo by hand. Or do what was suggested above. I recommend installing the Emanage now, your going to end up installing it anyway once you up the boost, AND YOU WILL lol.
08-29-2010, 10:00 PM
#5
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Wow guys thanks for the great advice!!
I have the sandwich plate so I'm straight with that. Where should I have the drain go? Is there an easier place to put it than tapping the oil pan?
Hmm was looking at stuff tonight and I guess I have to lose my fog lights. This saddens me deeply.
Lawlz I think I got this emanage from you streetz like a year or so ago.
I have the sandwich plate so I'm straight with that. Where should I have the drain go? Is there an easier place to put it than tapping the oil pan?
Hmm was looking at stuff tonight and I guess I have to lose my fog lights. This saddens me deeply.
Lawlz I think I got this emanage from you streetz like a year or so ago.
08-29-2010, 10:13 PM
#6
really? lol, i forgot about that. That means it shouldnt be to hard to get it up and runing, setting wise. as for drain, its always best to drop the oil right above the oil level. Some have done it to the lower oil pan, which I dont like.
08-30-2010, 10:49 AM
#8
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I had mocked up the pipes and it didn't look like they'd be able to stay....
Hmm I'm a 5th gen and I have "straight-through" intercooler with a port on each end. This would mean the piping would run to where the windshield washer bottle is on one side and the same thing on the other end.
Can any 5th genners post pics if they kept their fogs? I really would like to keep these!! 8D
Thanks for all the great replies guys!
Hmm I'm a 5th gen and I have "straight-through" intercooler with a port on each end. This would mean the piping would run to where the windshield washer bottle is on one side and the same thing on the other end.
Can any 5th genners post pics if they kept their fogs? I really would like to keep these!! 8D
Thanks for all the great replies guys!
08-30-2010, 03:53 PM
#9
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...-mounts-2.html
See post #32, you could possibly do that.
See post #32, you could possibly do that.
08-30-2010, 05:09 PM
#10
Gotta tap the oil pan above the oil level for the drain, no easier way that's safe. I've seen return fittings that go into the drain plug for simplicity, but that's not the right way to do it.
Since you aren't sure about the quality of your injectors, i'd suggest doing your initial start-up on known good injectors, but i'd switch them out as soon as possible. No sense running into the limit of the stock injectors when you have bigger ones ready to go. Same with the e-manage, you have it, why not use it?
Since you aren't sure about the quality of your injectors, i'd suggest doing your initial start-up on known good injectors, but i'd switch them out as soon as possible. No sense running into the limit of the stock injectors when you have bigger ones ready to go. Same with the e-manage, you have it, why not use it?
08-31-2010, 05:24 PM
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http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...-mounts-2.html
See post #32, you could possibly do that.
See post #32, you could possibly do that.
08-31-2010, 05:33 PM
#12
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^^
Is this the pan (the aluminum one)that I'd have to tap? Seems a little scary to take off esp because my lower steel oil pan screws are RUSTED
This is of course assuming that I'd have to take it off...
Last edited by dfownz; 08-31-2010 at 05:37 PM.
08-31-2010, 06:34 PM
#15
You should get the lower oil pan bolts taken cared of, it would be easier since you wouldn't have to remove the upper oil pan, just remove the lower so the metal shavings can fall out.
08-31-2010, 06:49 PM
#16
you can cut a hole in the rad support and run the ic pipes there to aviod losing the foglights and I would just tap the lower pan. There is a local member who has been driving this way for a few years with no problems
I have been driving around with my lower pan taped since March with no drainage problems either
I have been driving around with my lower pan taped since March with no drainage problems either
08-31-2010, 07:07 PM
#17
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I have a turbo 5.5 gen and the intercooler piping is run in such a way that I was able to keep my fogs. It does require some cutting of the radiator support. I need to pull the bumper off the car this weekend and I can snap some pictures if you would like?
08-31-2010, 08:49 PM
#19
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Is this the way that you did it? I was assuming that I wouldn't have enough room to drill and tap a hole. Also I think I'll be able to get the bolts out with enough soaking, I'd just s#!t a brick if I snapped one of those bad boys. Would that mean drilling out or could one be overlooked?
09-02-2010, 05:26 AM
#20
I had mocked up the pipes and it didn't look like they'd be able to stay....
Hmm I'm a 5th gen and I have "straight-through" intercooler with a port on each end. This would mean the piping would run to where the windshield washer bottle is on one side and the same thing on the other end.
Can any 5th genners post pics if they kept their fogs? I really would like to keep these!! 8D
Thanks for all the great replies guys!
Hmm I'm a 5th gen and I have "straight-through" intercooler with a port on each end. This would mean the piping would run to where the windshield washer bottle is on one side and the same thing on the other end.
Can any 5th genners post pics if they kept their fogs? I really would like to keep these!! 8D
Thanks for all the great replies guys!
09-06-2010, 04:16 PM
#22
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Wow thanks man!!!
Hmm I'm starting to wonder if paying to have all of this done is worth it....maybe I should just buy a welder. What would I need to cut through the frame? A torch?
Hmm I'm starting to wonder if paying to have all of this done is worth it....maybe I should just buy a welder. What would I need to cut through the frame? A torch?
09-07-2010, 04:32 PM
#24
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Been doing some research on welders today and I found some really cheap ones. They're the shielded wire fed mig welders. Sears and harborfreight have them for like 100 bucks. When looking up reviews for these products one of the only concerns I have burn through. These cheaper welders only have a low and high setting and thus can easily burn through materials.
Have any of you guys used these welders for exhaust work? I won't be using super thin ss and will just have reg steel mandrel bends to weld together. Also, think I'll be able to weld in a flex joint? Generally they're not too thin but not the thickest either.
Have any of you guys used these welders for exhaust work? I won't be using super thin ss and will just have reg steel mandrel bends to weld together. Also, think I'll be able to weld in a flex joint? Generally they're not too thin but not the thickest either.
09-08-2010, 08:50 AM
#25
Been doing some research on welders today and I found some really cheap ones. They're the shielded wire fed mig welders. Sears and harborfreight have them for like 100 bucks. When looking up reviews for these products one of the only concerns I have burn through. These cheaper welders only have a low and high setting and thus can easily burn through materials.
Have any of you guys used these welders for exhaust work? I won't be using super thin ss and will just have reg steel mandrel bends to weld together. Also, think I'll be able to weld in a flex joint? Generally they're not too thin but not the thickest either.
Have any of you guys used these welders for exhaust work? I won't be using super thin ss and will just have reg steel mandrel bends to weld together. Also, think I'll be able to weld in a flex joint? Generally they're not too thin but not the thickest either.
As for welding with Flux, IT SUCKS. I know its easy to just tell someone to upgrade to gas instead but if you can, do it! Or skip it and find a gas MIG welder that you can use/borrow.
Other than flux being difficult to weld with, it looks like absolute garbage too...be prepared to do alot of grinding lol...
09-12-2010, 07:15 AM
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Damn now my alternators gone! Well I'll have to wait then to get something decent. I was looking at some arc welders (lincoln) that are selling for super cheap, tho I think stick welding would be hard for exhaust work.
No need to rush lol I've been trying to get into forced induction for like 5 years now...
No need to rush lol I've been trying to get into forced induction for like 5 years now...
09-13-2010, 05:30 AM
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Damn now my alternators gone! Well I'll have to wait then to get something decent. I was looking at some arc welders (lincoln) that are selling for super cheap, tho I think stick welding would be hard for exhaust work.
No need to rush lol I've been trying to get into forced induction for like 5 years now...
No need to rush lol I've been trying to get into forced induction for like 5 years now...
09-13-2010, 06:38 PM
#30
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Yeah it is in the trunk. I hope its the alternator lol because there was a whine that had developed two days before failure....better be that and nothing else!!
Interesting tho, I'll have to check the fuses. My car was acting super strange: whine started -> cd player flickered on and off mad times super fast -> 5 min -> headlights go out while driving!! -> 10 sec -> car dies while driving
Also, once dead I parked and could still beat music and have headlights on. Not enough to turn over the engine though. Got jumped and turned on but it was quickly losing voltage.
Interesting tho, I'll have to check the fuses. My car was acting super strange: whine started -> cd player flickered on and off mad times super fast -> 5 min -> headlights go out while driving!! -> 10 sec -> car dies while driving
Also, once dead I parked and could still beat music and have headlights on. Not enough to turn over the engine though. Got jumped and turned on but it was quickly losing voltage.
Last edited by dfownz; 09-13-2010 at 06:42 PM.
09-13-2010, 06:46 PM
#31
Hey.. long time no talk. I got a track day meet going on on October 6th. Check out the North East threads and you'll see my track day thread. You HAVE to be there, racing or not, i wanna see your serious setup!
09-14-2010, 06:12 AM
#32
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Yeah it is in the trunk. I hope its the alternator lol because there was a whine that had developed two days before failure....better be that and nothing else!!
Interesting tho, I'll have to check the fuses. My car was acting super strange: whine started -> cd player flickered on and off mad times super fast -> 5 min -> headlights go out while driving!! -> 10 sec -> car dies while driving
Also, once dead I parked and could still beat music and have headlights on. Not enough to turn over the engine though. Got jumped and turned on but it was quickly losing voltage.
Interesting tho, I'll have to check the fuses. My car was acting super strange: whine started -> cd player flickered on and off mad times super fast -> 5 min -> headlights go out while driving!! -> 10 sec -> car dies while driving
Also, once dead I parked and could still beat music and have headlights on. Not enough to turn over the engine though. Got jumped and turned on but it was quickly losing voltage.
09-17-2010, 07:39 PM
#36
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O wow man thanks a lot for the tip. I've been very busy with school so I haven't even looked at it yet Anyways, do you recall which fuse it was so I can start looking there?
Anyways, do you recall which fuse it was so I can start looking there?
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