Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

turbo setup diagram help

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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 05:00 PM
  #1  
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turbo setup diagram help

Does this look right? I'm missing catch can. Not 100% sure how to install catch can.
https://i.imgur.com/wSxsW2T.jpg
Old Feb 13, 2015 | 05:44 PM
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Turbo 3.5
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were is the maf
Old Feb 13, 2015 | 06:16 PM
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Afm
Air flow meter is the purple color

I meant to say maf
Old Feb 14, 2015 | 10:35 AM
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That looks like the way I have mine setup but my AFM and BOV are swapped in your drawing and my wideband is in my exhaust underneath my shifter so you look like you have the right idea
Old Feb 14, 2015 | 10:38 AM
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Looks like you have a ssqv and I have one too but I have my vacuum source in the middle of the intake manifold as an individual source
Old Feb 14, 2015 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboA32
That looks like the way I have mine setup but my AFM and BOV are swapped in your drawing and my wideband is in my exhaust underneath my shifter so you look like you have the right idea
I changed my mind about the bov. I'm swapping it with the afm.

I heard 3ft from turbo is the closes you can install your wideband foe accurate reading.
Old Feb 14, 2015 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyJr
I changed my mind about the bov. I'm swapping it with the afm.

I heard 3ft from turbo is the closes you can install your wideband foe accurate reading.
I have a innovate wideband and I called the company and they told me to stick it into the exhaust at the end of the downpipe before the cat. What ever wideband you use just call the manufacturer and ask their recommendation
Old Feb 15, 2015 | 06:51 AM
  #8  
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Yea i order the Lc1 of eBay. Lol
Old Feb 15, 2015 | 03:40 PM
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My LC-1 is installed in front of my flex section about a foot in front of the cat.

You can see both my wideband bung and my normal 02 bung in this picture. Ideally, you want your wideband bung to be welded at the top of the downpipe so that it's never subject to moisture/condensation. I have mine dead-on at 12 o'clock. If you need to, you can weld it in about as low as 9/3 o'clock but I woudn't go lower than that. LC-1's are somewhat finicky and you don't want to install them too close to the turbo and burn them up or get moisture/contamination issues with them.

You can see both my normal O2 bung and my wideband bung here

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Old Feb 16, 2015 | 07:47 AM
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Do you think $850 for a stainless steel turbo manifold and downpipe is pricey?
Old Feb 16, 2015 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyJr
Do you think $850 for a stainless steel turbo manifold and downpipe is pricey?
You keep calling it a "turbo manifold".

You mean reverse y-pipe, right?

What I would be concerned with is the routing and how much it's "tucked". It's not easy to do that stuff and have it not affect ground clearance. It takes some effort and time to totally tuck both a 3" downpipe and y-pipe above the crossmember level.

But generally speaking, $850 for a full SS mandrel bend downpipe and reverse y-pipe setup is actually probably a decent or even good price considering it's not uncommon for people pay near that price for just SS cat-back exhausts.

Having said that, would I pay $850 for somebody to build a downpipe and reverse y-pipe? I wouldn't. But then again I hate having to pay anybody to do anything at all on any of my cars. Doing it all yourself is part of the fun/pride in it.
Old Mar 2, 2015 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyJr
Do you think $850 for a stainless steel turbo manifold and downpipe is pricey?
I wouldn't go with stainless steel I would just use mild steel and use exhaust paint and heat wrap
Old Mar 3, 2015 | 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboA32

I wouldn't go with stainless steel I would just use mild steel and use exhaust paint and heat wrap
I just did i have to take rust out then spray it with htx
Old Mar 3, 2015 | 06:04 AM
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What is HTX?
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