TonyJr

Does this look right? I'm missing catch can. Not 100% sure how to install catch can.
https://i.imgur.com/wSxsW2T.jpg

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

were is the maf

TonyJr

Afm
Air flow meter is the purple color

I meant to say maf

TurboA32

iTrader: (36)

That looks like the way I have mine setup but my AFM and BOV are swapped in your drawing and my wideband is in my exhaust underneath my shifter so you look like you have the right idea

TurboA32

iTrader: (36)

Looks like you have a ssqv and I have one too but I have my vacuum source in the middle of the intake manifold as an individual source

TonyJr

I changed my mind about the bov. I'm swapping it with the afm.

I heard 3ft from turbo is the closes you can install your wideband foe accurate reading.

TurboA32

iTrader: (36)

I have a innovate wideband and I called the company and they told me to stick it into the exhaust at the end of the downpipe before the cat. What ever wideband you use just call the manufacturer and ask their recommendation

TonyJr

Yea i order the Lc1 of eBay. Lol

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

My LC-1 is installed in front of my flex section about a foot in front of the cat.

You can see both my wideband bung and my normal 02 bung in this picture. Ideally, you want your wideband bung to be welded at the top of the downpipe so that it's never subject to moisture/condensation. I have mine dead-on at 12 o'clock. If you need to, you can weld it in about as low as 9/3 o'clock but I woudn't go lower than that. LC-1's are somewhat finicky and you don't want to install them too close to the turbo and burn them up or get moisture/contamination issues with them.

You can see both my normal O2 bung and my wideband bung here

TonyJr

Do you think $850 for a stainless steel turbo manifold and downpipe is pricey?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

You keep calling it a "turbo manifold".

You mean reverse y-pipe, right?

What I would be concerned with is the routing and how much it's "tucked". It's not easy to do that stuff and have it not affect ground clearance. It takes some effort and time to totally tuck both a 3" downpipe and y-pipe above the crossmember level.

But generally speaking, $850 for a full SS mandrel bend downpipe and reverse y-pipe setup is actually probably a decent or even good price considering it's not uncommon for people pay near that price for just SS cat-back exhausts.

Having said that, would I pay $850 for somebody to build a downpipe and reverse y-pipe? I wouldn't. But then again I hate having to pay anybody to do anything at all on any of my cars. Doing it all yourself is part of the fun/pride in it.

TurboA32

iTrader: (36)

I wouldn't go with stainless steel I would just use mild steel and use exhaust paint and heat wrap

TonyJr

I just did i have to take rust out then spray it with htx

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

What is HTX?