Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.
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so i went to the dyno today...pleasantly surprised.

Old 12-17-2016, 03:41 PM
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so i went to the dyno today...pleasantly surprised.

did a few pulls amd fiddle with the boost a little bit to find a happy place. peak boost 9psi and held 7psi steady. i need an electronic controller for sure...but i digress.brute power 6-puck clutch, 260cc injectors, stock pressure regulator, stock 20 degrees base timing, stock '86 300zx ECM and '86 300zx garret T3 turbo. 230hp and 299 torque. thats a 96hp/129trq increase from my pre-turbo dyno. im pretty damn happy with that. gonna make some minor changes and shoot for 250hp next time with torque around 320-340...and then i think ill be done LOL and heres the video we all wanna see.....
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Old 12-17-2016, 04:24 PM
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Right where I would expect it to be get that cranked up to 12-14 with a controller and you will easily see 350hp and high 300s torque.
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Old 12-17-2016, 05:15 PM
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well, my 11.8 AFR tells me im at the end of what these 260cc injectors can give. i know ill need larger injectors and a tune. you really think this old T3 can move enough air to make that kind of power?
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:08 PM
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Went back and looked at some z31 alot them making 260 and mid 300s torque with t3. But ya 11.8 afr I wouldn't push it any more than already is.
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:31 PM
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No pics/videos of your car on the dyno? What shop is that?
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:41 AM
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Not to Be a wise guy but that turbo is never going to make 350whp on 12-13psi. Maxing out that turbo might get you there but I think your going to run out of fuel with those260cc awfully soon. I would get some bigger injectors and an adjustable reg, along with a controller and retune. That should allow you to atleast get to the 300whp mark. Looking to get anything above that reliably is gonna require more turbo. I made 310/360 hp/tq on a 100% stock VQ30DE, piggyback fuel tuned (adjustable regulator, cranked fuel pressure way up, then used piggyback to lean it back out to ideal AFR at various RPM rather than using piggyback to add fuel to the stock tune where it went lean under boost), crappy log manifold/homemade merge collector but with a nice 3076R Garrett and a 3" downpipe. After I upgraded to some 500cc injectors, an AEM pump, rerouted some lines and fabbed new turbo manifold from some $80 eBay headers I was able to make 345/390. This was on pump 93 with "Race Gas" concentrate added @ 4oz per gallon, making roughly 104-105 octane. If I was using a real EMS I could have run the same power safely on straight 93 pump, but with not being able to pull timing with boost I wanted the extra security of octane. I did experiment bringing base timing down overall to 17 but had issues with the ECU correcting the change after time and it really didn't make much of a difference anyway. Cold plugs gapped fairly tight, good fuel and a fat AFR will keep these things alive for a long time. Have fun with it!
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Old 12-26-2016, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by James92SE View Post
No pics/videos of your car on the dyno? What shop is that?
video is linked up top. ill put up what pics i have later. dyno is at gearheads autofab in pflugerville texas. also, side bar.....car is down for a little while. manual boost controller let my down the other day. car overboosted BAD. i have low compression in cylinders 2,4 and 6. havent had time to pull it apart and inspect, but am planning on either fixing the motor i currently have(depending on damage) or picking up a cheap VG33 and buiding that. car still runs of course, but not well. the lesson ive learned here is to get a damn electronic boost controller. i feel this was totally preventable and my fault. whatevs. we pay, we play, we pay some more. thats the game. anyway, im not gonna let the car stay down long.
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Old 12-26-2016, 08:22 AM
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Sorry to hear about the damage. What did the AFRs go to when it hit the over-boost condition? Also what RPM did it get taken to during that condition. If the car still runs, just not well and is down on compression you may have just stressed the head gasket or rings. Unless you went really high in the revs at an extreme lean condition due to the overboost it's unlikely that you cracked a piston or ring land, ate a rod or anything like that. Odds are it will probably be a simple, inexpensive fix if you can do the work yourself. If you do have to replace the engine, have you ever considered going VQ? You can get a full VQ30 swap for like $1500 with everything you need, and then you will have a platform that is stronger and more responsive to modifications as well as access to a wider variety of aftermarket. If you want to piece something together, go to a scrap yard and grab a VQ35DE block from a Maxima/Altima, Quest minivan etc, then the Vq30heads/ECU, tranny axles etc on the cheap with some 95-99 Maxima mounts and your good to go. Can build that engine setup for ~700$ and it will make around 240whp NA, and support up to 350 reliably boosted. I've done this in a couple A32 Maxima chassis with excellent results back when budget was my biggest concern. Just wanted to throw that out there as an option because even a straight stock VQ30 can make around 210-220whp NA and handle well over 300 on boost and they are dirt cheap these days. Even first gen VQ35 can be found fairly inexpensive, but the 6 speed tranny is much more costly than the A32 chassis 5 spd. If your auto the 4spd RE tranny is like $150 lol. They're fun on boost as well, given full line pressure and a aftermarket cooler they hold up OK to around 300HP and are dead concistent with the shifts and launches. Manual is still more fun to drive, though. Anyway, good luck with whatever direction you go. If your trying to do it on the cheap just pull the heads to see what's going on and change whatever you have to. My bet as I said above would be either head gasket or rings based on the situation. Good luck!
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Old 01-15-2017, 08:20 AM
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Gotta love that sound!
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Old 01-27-2017, 06:27 PM
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i believe the dyno pressure gauge was off, i had to have been more in the 12-13 psi range to make that amount of torque AND hit 11.8 afr with the 270s. anyway. motor is torn down with block still in car. front three injectors stuck open from over-duty/over-heat i think. fuel washed the front three cylinders and killed the rings. pistons were not broken but looked beat to crap. i ordered a bunch of parts to get it back in shape. new pistons, rings, rod bearings. while its apart im replacing a bunch of janky turbo couplers, my air filter and lots of little random bits. got a new set of 270 injectors and will run those at 5psi for a thousand miles or so to break everything in. i also got another maxima ECM and ZIF socket to install my 88 z31T rom into so i ca n run the car closed loop with fuel feedback and functioning idle controls...finally. long term, im getting a chip burner, 370 or 550 injectors, electronic boost control and a slightly larger turbo. i believe a T04E would meet my power goals while still being in the efficiency island. i honed amd oiled the cylinders today. tomorrow ill be installing oil pump, rod bearings and pistons. pics to come....
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Old 01-28-2017, 04:36 AM
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cant wait to empty out my dang work bench lol
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old pistons/rods out of the car
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new piston and ring set with wrist pins and clips. i bought stock replacement 9:1 cast pistons

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at 122k i feel a new oil pump is just good dollars and cents.

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the bores had some very minor piston scuffing, nothing to catch a nail on. used an inside mic/bore gauge to check taper/out of round. max i found on any cylinder was 0.0005 out of round. totally within spec . went ahead and cleaned the head surface of the block and honed the bores. this was done last night after work. time has been limited to work on it as the car is at the shop right now. but anyway, heres the bores after honing and with a light coat of motor oil on them.

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ill update today after work, we'll see how much progress i make today.
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Old 01-28-2017, 06:23 PM
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pistons/rings, oil pump and rod bearings installed today.
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:51 PM
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new rod bearings in, plastigauged at 0.009 (on the tight end of spec). rod caps torqued and pan back on amd sealed. i put a little heat barrier on the bottom side where the down pipe goes to help keep from boiling my engine oil LOL.

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i went ahead and heat wrapped everything while it was apart. i forgot to take pictures, but my intake, upper plenum, throttle body and exhaust manifolds had already been port matched...so i port matched the head too while i had em off. no polish or anything big, just port matching. lapped all the valves and replaced all the valve seals.



finished my re-circ inlet tube, came out nice i think.


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and all put back together.
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Old 02-08-2017, 04:53 PM
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only running at 7psi till i can afford an electronic boost controller. running great so far. about 70miles into break in. planning to come back at it with a chip burner and bigger injectors once i have a new controller in.
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