Clearsky

My OEM Turanza on the '03 GLE (215/55/17) is due preety soon. I have not gotten a change to push the Max to its limits during wet or snow conditions. And I am wondering if any of the GLE owners had bad experience with the Turanza. Since the Falken 512 (225/50/17 on OEM GLE Rims) could be a hit or miss for most of the GLE owners with few exceptions of SE, are Turanza as bad as the Potenza? I am debating if I should stick with another set of Turanza when it is due. Any comments on the Turanza?

Garfield

Can you tell me what did Sears do to your tires since I also have the same problem? Also how much did you pay for that? Thanks.

MAXIMARK

Hey PhxMaxx, clue me in on the "the color dots on the tires and dots on OEM rim" thing. I kind of understand where you're going with this but it's the first time I have heard of lining up the tire and rim - kind of like the old drive shaft technique, aye? And you mentioned the tech lined up the wrong dots the first go around. I am mounting the tires myself and then having the local Big10 do balance and alignment. I understand with the 4th generation Max we only need to adjust the toe and make sure the camber is equal on both sides, nothing to do for the rear. $69.00 for a 4 wheel alignment verses $49.00 for the front alone. Off to search the Falken website - 4 brand new 512s sitting in the garage ready to replace the Crapenzas tomorrow. Be Safe, Mark V.

Norm Peterson

The yellow dot is the lightest spot on the tire, and should be mounted above the valve stem (in the absence of other criteria).

The red dot indicates the high point of the tire, and is normally mounted above a dot on the wheel (that presumably identifies the wheel low point).

I have a bmp file that shows the above, and I think I can locate other info (actually, it may be in the Falken tire sticky thread).

The intent is to provide optimum balance with a minimum of balance weights and to reduce the chance of not having the balance zero out on the first attempt.

I matched the red dots to the wheel dots when I mounted and balanced mine, and they balanced to zeroes on the first try with equal or smaller weights than the OE RE92's had needed.

Norm

02GLEMax

I will not buy another set of 512 just mainly due to the problems i am having. The shake is gone but tires isn't that smooth but it does handle good. I am not sure what they did except for a rebalance but as of about 2 months now no shakes at all.I am now having a problem with a wroooo sound when you first start the car up only last about 2 secs and doesn't affect the car any other time. The dealer told me it is a oil filter problem which is a bunch of bull anyone else here thie wrooo lol sound kinda hard to spell it any other way.

nirvana4all

iTrader: (3)

I have had no shakes or anything up to 100mph, dont do that too often, but with the shaking and shimmying you are describing, not sure I would at all. I love these tires, but sounds a little hit or miss out there.

Otis_Speeding

lol...and to think I was the only one with the "shaking" problem.

I'm running the 512's myself on 17 in rims. they're currently running at 30 psi, and they feel kinda weak...so I'm thinking about upping the pressure. What confuses me is, it says 50 lbs max on the side wall, and that just sounds rediculous to me. I know of bike tires that ask for that much, but never an auto tire. Kick back some suggestions guys. The tire says 50.....what do you guys think?

Norm Peterson

That pressure number molded into the sidewall is the maximum pressure that the tire is rated for (it should say MAX somewhere). It has nothing to do with any recommended-for-operation inflation pressure (whether that recommendation comes from Nissan or any individual).

I think you could run a few more psi than 30, particularly up front. I'm running 36/37 front and "32-ish" rear vs 32 recommended (for an '01). That should be OK for a '99. From my own observations, the Brockton area is not exactly a mecca of open-road driving, so there isn't much need to run pressures any closer to autocross levels.

Norm

Norm Peterson

Different tires, if needed. But adding weight to the rear of a FWD car for snow duty is just wrong (it's an old trick for helping out nose-heavy REAR wheel drive vehicles).

Norm

Otis_Speeding

I upped the pressure to 39 front/35 rear. Seems to have fixed the vibration problem. Took it for a long ride today just to make sure. Seems alright. I still feel a slight vibration, but nothing like it was before, a vast improvement. Rides and handles alot better also.