A/C compressor bypass belt
#10
All my equipment is still there, just no belt running the compressor. I bypassed because my pulley bearing started to make some noise. I'm very particular about how my car sounds and didn't feel like rebuilding the compressor pulley. I'll end pulling all the parts off when I do my 3.5 swap.
#11
I don't mean to revive an old thread, but I just bought the 25-060355 (napa had to special order it) but the box says 920mm, not 890mm. The belt model is 6PK903. I'm thinking that this might still work, though, with a little more adjustment of the tensioner. I will try it either tomorrow or Friday and reply here.
#12
Ok, the 6PK903 belt worked perfectly. So, for the record, if anyone winds up having to do this, a 920mm 6-groove belt will also do the trick. Horrible a/c compressor bearing noise is gone, all is good (until the summer when I have to fix the a/c).
#15
im getting this same awful sound from my a/c compressor the outside pully spins freely but the inside seems like its engaged all the time trying to spin. it spins once then stops then struggales to spin again 2 secs later
#16
Has anyone that bypassed their A/C compressor had any bad experiences / problems afterward? I've done this twice, with two 4th gen maximas, and had problems. First time, shortly after installing the shorter belt, I burned up my original alternator (@~130k miles). It happened instantly after a round of spirited acceleration. I'm starting to think that maybe the alternator pulley was overstressed by the increase in contact area with the belt and also the new angle that the shaft of the alternator was now pulled towards may have caused the coils inside to short out somehow. This is all just a guess, but it's my best guess. The second time I bypassed the A/C compressor I let the noise go on and on, and one day starting my maxima, I heard a loud thump and checked outside, my outer ring of the crankshaft pulley along with the belt was shot off the car. If anyone else has had issues with this bypass, I'd really like to know. Thanks in advance.
#19
The link you need.
Alternatively, for the search impaired:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ator-belt.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...belt-size.html
#20
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Rezinflux - I doubt the issues you had with your car after by-passing the A/C were caused by that mod. Our Alty's our known to crap out, and they sometimes go instantly. The outer ring of the flywheel deterioates as time goes by. It's nothing more then a rubber insulator. There have been quite a few reports of this happening, my buddies I30 had completely dried out and split as well.
If you tightened up the belt a bit to much after the mod, then yes, this could have accellerated the failures, but not caused them.
If you tightened up the belt a bit to much after the mod, then yes, this could have accellerated the failures, but not caused them.
#22
Use the belt shown above then just don't put the PS belt on...
#24
Sorry to dredge up an old thread but this is exactly the information that I needed for the temp A/C compressor bypass belt. NAPA's part number 25-06355 is currently displayed as NBH 2506355 on their website and a cross reference number for an equivalent Gates belt for the same application is K060355 in the event you don't have a NAPA parts house in your area.
#25
a/c compressor bypass belt
Just did this past weekend. Auto Zone Duralast belt 360K6. How your read it is 360 at the beginning is 36.0 inches length, K6 is 6 ribs(grooves) which what you need to fit the grooves of the pulleys correctly. This is the perfect size, belt was ~$14. Great relief, i had a whining sound which went up and down with revs and at some point had me thinking could be timing chain, whew.
#28
Either way, the defroster worked fine, since I did it in the winter, and all the windows needed was heat, not the compressor. And I never unplugged my compressor either.
When WOT, even if the AC was on, there is a relay that will shut it off. It's only minimal drag.
#29
Why would you do this? Not worth it.
Either way, the defroster worked fine, since I did it in the winter, and all the windows needed was heat, not the compressor. And I never unplugged my compressor either.
When WOT, even if the AC was on, there is a relay that will shut it off. It's only minimal drag.
Either way, the defroster worked fine, since I did it in the winter, and all the windows needed was heat, not the compressor. And I never unplugged my compressor either.
When WOT, even if the AC was on, there is a relay that will shut it off. It's only minimal drag.
Thanks.
#33
thanks for the help. this is the one that worked on my 99 maxima SE:
25-060355 (35.5 inch).
the 37 inch was too loose, maybe my alt or idler pulley is a different diameter from someone who said it fit.
now that the ac is out of the loop, notice the crank pulley wobbling, wtf
this pos is killing me.
25-060355 (35.5 inch).
the 37 inch was too loose, maybe my alt or idler pulley is a different diameter from someone who said it fit.
now that the ac is out of the loop, notice the crank pulley wobbling, wtf
this pos is killing me.
#37
Has anyone that bypassed their A/C compressor had any bad experiences / problems afterward? I've done this twice, with two 4th gen maximas, and had problems. First time, shortly after installing the shorter belt, I burned up my original alternator (@~130k miles). It happened instantly after a round of spirited acceleration. I'm starting to think that maybe the alternator pulley was overstressed by the increase in contact area with the belt and also the new angle that the shaft of the alternator was now pulled towards may have caused the coils inside to short out somehow. This is all just a guess, but it's my best guess. The second time I bypassed the A/C compressor I let the noise go on and on, and one day starting my maxima, I heard a loud thump and checked outside, my outer ring of the crankshaft pulley along with the belt was shot off the car. If anyone else has had issues with this bypass, I'd really like to know. Thanks in advance.
Basically, each side of the belt (the coming and going sides, not ribbed vs smooth) can be considered as applying a force. For any included angle (the angle between the coming and going sides of the belt) the force will equal 2F*Cos(theta/2), where theta is the included angle. So, when the Alt is only connected to the crank pulley theta=0, and force=2F. When the Alt is connected to the crank at 0deg and AC compressor at 90deg, the force applied is equal to 2F(cos(45)) or about 1.414F. This shows a 41% increase (2/1.414) in force applied to each bearing with the AC compressor removed, so... reduce how tight it is(by about 30%)! It's not going to slip anyway, almost the entire pulley is covered in belt.
#40
i recently just by passed my ac compressor with a new shorter belt and its running well so far. i got the part from advanced auto parts and the part id is 370k6 6pk0940.I also unplugged the electrical plug on the compressor. how long can i drive my car with the ac comp unplugged?