Car shakes when at a stop
06-08-2005, 03:07 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 94
Car shakes when at a stop
hey everyone, im having a problem with my car and i dont know what it is. whenever i come to a complete stop (at a red light or in traffic) my car starts to shake and it is concurrent with my RPM's. when my car shakes, my RPM needle shakes as well. Now when i put my car in nuetral, the skaing completely goes away. does anyone have any idea what this could be? i thought maybe my battery was going bad so i went and bought an optima yellow top battery and it is still doing this. someone please help me because this is really annoying. by the way, if i am in reverse and stopped it also does it, but not in park.
06-08-2005, 05:01 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 218
my car was doing something similar earlier today. at a stop it was idling low and rough, and when i shifted it would stall. two days ago, i cleaned my k&n filter, and when i put it back in the rubber gasket between the airbox and the maf wasnt in right. as i was driving down the highway, the bumps caused the gasket to slip out from under the hose clamp , leaving a gap between the airbox and the maf. took me 5 mins to loosen the hose clamp and re-assemble it. check your intake before doing anything.
damn those little things
damn those little things
06-08-2005, 10:11 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 95
I have had the same problem for the last six months, still can't get to the bottom of it. I have changed all 6 coils(1 was bad anyway),new fuel filter,plugs, cleaned iacv,adjusted idle up, always run premium, no codes from ecu. THIS IS DRIVING ME INSANE!! Car was fine then one day while stopped at a light rpms dropped, car vibrates and has been this way since. If you figure it out, PLEASE follow up with this post. I'm pretty sick of shiftin into neutral at every light.
06-09-2005, 01:14 AM
#10
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Melville, NY
Posts: 57
That has been happening to me also so I took it to my dad's shop and his mechanic checked for codes and something about an evap solenoid came up. So, tomorrow I am going to finally try and fix that problem. If it works then I will post what I did.
06-09-2005, 08:26 AM
#11
The same thing happened to me. It started a couple weeks ago. I have done all the maint. on it and have cleaned the iac 2 times in the last 1.5 years now. (I only put on 6000 miles a year) I don't get any codes or pending codes. I have a dyno-scan program for my palm so i can monitor all the sensors. My idle is shaky in gear (like its missing) and kind of goes away after warmed up, but then in gear at a stop it shakes and the idle varies from 625-700 and constantly changes. I know what your thinking but i already changed my tps sensor 6 months ago. Man this is the most touchy problematic car i have ever owned. So far i have had the transmission overhauled (due to the crappy nissan solenoids, replaced the knock sensor, tps sensor changed all non cheap factory spark plugs, fuel filter, Good thing i love to do this kind of thing or i would be pissed. But the good thing about the trans overhaul i got a good shift kit out of the deal. Then needed to install the trans cooler up front. Man that thing make a difference in temps. Well enough about my rambling, Anyone have an idea of whats going on here?? If the coils are going bad won't they have a code or pending code??
06-09-2005, 09:37 AM
#14
Geez you had your car since it was brand new hugh?? If not how do you know it has the original?? Yeah knowing of all the problems are cars have and especially the a/t, I find it really hard to believe. I suppose you have the original k/s and coils to??
06-09-2005, 09:40 AM
#15
Nope, if i had the original KS I would have stated as well as the coils. On my 2nd KS and changed one coil.
My tranny is slipping more than a crack fein on a new job .. but that's given.
My tranny is slipping more than a crack fein on a new job .. but that's given.
06-09-2005, 03:18 PM
#17
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 41
Im also having the same problem. Whenever I come to a stop.. my whole car starts to shake like crazy.. this has been happening for the past year and I still cannot find what is wrong with it. If anyone ever finds a solution, please post it because im getting sick of the vibrations.
06-11-2005, 11:56 PM
#19
do the shakes go away when more load is applied to the engine? ie: AC turned on?
if they go away - your base idle speed is to low and needs to be adjusted by disconnecting MAF sensor and turning Idle adjustment screw which is located on TB
don't forget to re-connect the MAF after you are done !!!
Nick.
if they go away - your base idle speed is to low and needs to be adjusted by disconnecting MAF sensor and turning Idle adjustment screw which is located on TB
don't forget to re-connect the MAF after you are done !!!
Nick.
06-12-2005, 01:31 AM
#20
MY CAR ALSO!.my mechanic told me it was a problem with my spark plugs didnt get the job done yet. i also have the solenoid thingy problem that is why my check engine light is on. my knock sensor is bad also. and i recently got into an accident just body damage but maybe mechanical.. anyone ever solve tis problem?
06-12-2005, 11:05 AM
#21
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 95
Changing the plugs never helped out my cause, please guys keep this one going until someone figures this thing out, the Nissan dealership here did'nt even have a good answer, they checked all codes, came up blank, they claim the "exhaust system is mounted too tight", pretty lame answer seeing as how the problem started 2 months after exhaust was installed. Nothing seems to help the vibes, when a/c is turned on idle does go up, but not as much as it used to, car feels like it is struggling to keep idle up, put in N however it all goes away.
06-12-2005, 08:32 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 41
Originally Posted by tweeter007
I agree, when the car is first started there is really no vibration in D, as soon as it reaches normal temp, vibration begins
then after a while, every time i come to a red or a stop sign, it starts shaking violently and sporatically. it gets so dam ANNOYING.
06-12-2005, 10:32 PM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 29
Hey guys, just thought i'd throw my experience in here. I have the same problem, ive checked the coils, spark plugs as well as changed the fuel filter and cleaned the k & n air filter and the throttle body. I had a bad knock sensor replaced that but it turns out that wasnt cause of this problem. Still got no idea what it is, so im gunna be takin it in to the STEALership the day after tomorrow and see if they can deal with it. I'll let you know what they find and if they fix it,mabey it will help u out too.
06-13-2005, 12:00 AM
#28
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 41
Originally Posted by StrikerHA
Hey guys, just thought i'd throw my experience in here. I have the same problem, ive checked the coils, spark plugs as well as changed the fuel filter and cleaned the k & n air filter and the throttle body. I had a bad knock sensor replaced that but it turns out that wasnt cause of this problem. Still got no idea what it is, so im gunna be takin it in to the STEALership the day after tomorrow and see if they can deal with it. I'll let you know what they find and if they fix it,mabey it will help u out too.
06-13-2005, 12:16 AM
#29
Originally Posted by Sizzam
hey everyone, im having a problem with my car and i dont know what it is. whenever i come to a complete stop (at a red light or in traffic) my car starts to shake and it is concurrent with my RPM's. when my car shakes, my RPM needle shakes as well. Now when i put my car in nuetral, the skaing completely goes away. does anyone have any idea what this could be? i thought maybe my battery was going bad so i went and bought an optima yellow top battery and it is still doing this. someone please help me because this is really annoying. by the way, if i am in reverse and stopped it also does it, but not in park.
Battery? I couldn't imagine what why the battery would cause it. Same with the torque converter, if it shakes when the car is in gear, I think it's because putting it in gear causes the engine to run at a lower rpm. That's all I have, this hasn't happened to me yet.
06-13-2005, 03:40 AM
#30
I had that problem with my wife's Max (my old 95 GXE) it turned out to be one of the injectors.
You can check by leaving it in D and pulling the e-brake on and pulling the connector off of each injector one at a time and see if it changes the idle. If it makes it worse of course the injector is ok but if it makes no difference you could have a plugged injector. I just happened to have a few spare so I just changed it and all was ok.
It was one of the front 3, but if its on the back 3 not sure if you can unplug the connector while the intake is on.
PS Make sure the a/c is off because it sometimes makes the idle rougher.
You can check by leaving it in D and pulling the e-brake on and pulling the connector off of each injector one at a time and see if it changes the idle. If it makes it worse of course the injector is ok but if it makes no difference you could have a plugged injector. I just happened to have a few spare so I just changed it and all was ok.
It was one of the front 3, but if its on the back 3 not sure if you can unplug the connector while the intake is on.
PS Make sure the a/c is off because it sometimes makes the idle rougher.
06-13-2005, 01:51 PM
#32
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 38
I had the exact same problem on my Max ('99 GLE). It shook at idle after the engine warms up, but only did it like half the time. I replaced 5 coil packs (left the old one in the cylinder that seemed hard to get to) and the car still shook. Then I said "darnit I gotta get that 6th one out, I already paid 300+ bucks for the new coil packs" and then figured out that I only had to take off 2 bolts to get to the 6th cylinder. I replaced the last coil pack and everything's been fine now for a couple hundred miles. I didn't test my old coilpacks, but I didn't replace or change anything else so I figure the coilpacks must have been the problem.
Moral of the story: change your coilpacks. I've read on here before that testing them isn't good enough, as sometimes they test out OK but they are still bad.
Moral of the story: change your coilpacks. I've read on here before that testing them isn't good enough, as sometimes they test out OK but they are still bad.
06-13-2005, 05:03 PM
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 87
HOLY FRICKIN CRAP Finally people who know what I'm talking about!!!!!!!
I can't believe everyone has this SAME thing. I have been posting on this site for like a month now about the SAME D#$# THING.
Mine does exactly the same thing, and it stops in neutral, and I have the same error codes as everyone too, KS (replaced), O2 Sensors (replaced), EVAP purge valve/selenoid valve (not replaced yet), and
Well I did all the same things everyone else has done:
all new NGK plugs
all new HANSHIN coils
new fuel filter
cleaned Trottle Body (gave me more acceleration but didn't fix the stutter)
bla bla bla
Well then yesterday the MAX started running really bad and threw some new codes.
This time I got a cylinder 5 misfire,(among other things) I checked the coil for spark today and it was fine then I tried the self diagnosis described on VB8maxima.com or whatever that site is. You can test the rear bank of injectors using the connector on the passenger side of the engine, the big U-shape harness, there is a connector there that allows you to test injector 1, 3, 5.
Well in turns out #5 injector is bad, so I will be spending the next couple of days taking apart the engine to replace that one and clean the others(while im in there)
SO if this fixes the dreaded " stop light shake" I will share it with everyone (and if it doesn't I will share anyway only no one will care because it still doen't solve a d*&n thing).
Anyway I'll let you know how it goes.
I can't believe everyone has this SAME thing. I have been posting on this site for like a month now about the SAME D#$# THING.
Mine does exactly the same thing, and it stops in neutral, and I have the same error codes as everyone too, KS (replaced), O2 Sensors (replaced), EVAP purge valve/selenoid valve (not replaced yet), and
Well I did all the same things everyone else has done:
all new NGK plugs
all new HANSHIN coils
new fuel filter
cleaned Trottle Body (gave me more acceleration but didn't fix the stutter)
bla bla bla
Well then yesterday the MAX started running really bad and threw some new codes.
This time I got a cylinder 5 misfire,(among other things) I checked the coil for spark today and it was fine then I tried the self diagnosis described on VB8maxima.com or whatever that site is. You can test the rear bank of injectors using the connector on the passenger side of the engine, the big U-shape harness, there is a connector there that allows you to test injector 1, 3, 5.
Well in turns out #5 injector is bad, so I will be spending the next couple of days taking apart the engine to replace that one and clean the others(while im in there)
SO if this fixes the dreaded " stop light shake" I will share it with everyone (and if it doesn't I will share anyway only no one will care because it still doen't solve a d*&n thing).
Anyway I'll let you know how it goes.
06-13-2005, 05:14 PM
#34
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 41
Originally Posted by nethack4ever
I had the exact same problem on my Max ('99 GLE). It shook at idle after the engine warms up, but only did it like half the time. I replaced 5 coil packs (left the old one in the cylinder that seemed hard to get to) and the car still shook. Then I said "darnit I gotta get that 6th one out, I already paid 300+ bucks for the new coil packs" and then figured out that I only had to take off 2 bolts to get to the 6th cylinder. I replaced the last coil pack and everything's been fine now for a couple hundred miles. I didn't test my old coilpacks, but I didn't replace or change anything else so I figure the coilpacks must have been the problem.
Moral of the story: change your coilpacks. I've read on here before that testing them isn't good enough, as sometimes they test out OK but they are still bad.
Moral of the story: change your coilpacks. I've read on here before that testing them isn't good enough, as sometimes they test out OK but they are still bad.
06-14-2005, 09:27 AM
#37
Disco Biscuit
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,791
On my auto max its the torque converter. acts almost like my 5speed stopping without the cluch being engaged. Put it in neutral and it goes away since theres no longer a load. Personally I'd say it's your torque converter.
06-14-2005, 09:45 AM
#38
Believe it or not, bad gasoline will do that!
Assuming that you use something good like Chevron or BP, then I would put my money on a vacuum leak!
You've got vacuum lines running to a lot of critical parts throughout the engine, such as the IACV, the EGR, the PCV, etc..
PLUS, a vacuum leak will typically rear its ugly head ONLY when idling...so that is why I suspect that is your problem.
Assuming that you use something good like Chevron or BP, then I would put my money on a vacuum leak!
You've got vacuum lines running to a lot of critical parts throughout the engine, such as the IACV, the EGR, the PCV, etc..
PLUS, a vacuum leak will typically rear its ugly head ONLY when idling...so that is why I suspect that is your problem.
06-14-2005, 09:58 AM
#39
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 11
ughhh i got the same freakin problem. 1997 GXE 125k. For a while car would shut off only when i i shift it to R (or D sometimes). Now it just stoll's on me when ever, sometime even while driving which is dangerous. Went to my mechanic ..like on purpose it worked great there, shift to reverse no prob, drives perfectly, computer diagnostics says no poblems detected. As soon as i pull by my house it shuts off all over again, as i try to start it it starts but rpm jump up and down then drops to .3 and shut offimmideately. What could be there problem??
Also i decided to see whats going on with my spark plugs, i replaced them maybe only 4 months ago and put 6k on them NGK Vpower coopers, as i took them out the end that gives spark is all smoky with black 'sulfur'. I dont know if that part of my car shutting off problem but it didnt look too good.
I really dont know what to do ECU shows no code, while at Mechanic car ran perefectly so he said he cant help. Im really confused and have no idea what to do and what to look at. (gas filter, air filter, starter, rear o2 sensor all recently replaced)
went to a different mechanic yesterday after cheking it out for a while he said he is 99% sure that it has something to do with transmission and that i should take it to Nissan Dealer as its my only choice....Could it be the tranny???
Also i decided to see whats going on with my spark plugs, i replaced them maybe only 4 months ago and put 6k on them NGK Vpower coopers, as i took them out the end that gives spark is all smoky with black 'sulfur'. I dont know if that part of my car shutting off problem but it didnt look too good.
I really dont know what to do ECU shows no code, while at Mechanic car ran perefectly so he said he cant help. Im really confused and have no idea what to do and what to look at. (gas filter, air filter, starter, rear o2 sensor all recently replaced)
went to a different mechanic yesterday after cheking it out for a while he said he is 99% sure that it has something to do with transmission and that i should take it to Nissan Dealer as its my only choice....Could it be the tranny???
06-14-2005, 10:26 AM
#40
Same thing happened to me, now its gone. It didn't happen right away, after i cleaned my TB and IACV i noticed it went away slowly. Also check your air filter if its dirty and MAF and intake connections.