athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

I called the mechanics and asked them about fuel pum pand vacuum lines being a factor. They said no. If it was a problem with the vacuum lines or the fuel pump the car's performance would have been affected. My car runs like a champ. I did notice tonight that my gauge lights dim when the car bumps or tugs.

fickendichdu

Seems like a common problem. I also am experiencing the rattling also when I hit about 45-52mph the engine sounds really loud or whenever I am accelerating on the highway to pass someone. If leave it at same rpm to maintain speed I do not hear the engine or rattling.

HallKemar

Damn them to hell..would switching to an aftermarket intake make it any better?

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Well. Just got through with finals. I'm tired of putting the car in neutral when I'm at a light to mask the problem when I have other people in the car. Tomorrow, I'm heading to autozone or whatever place sells a good coil pack with a good warranty and swap out the ones I think are bad. I'll start with the rear ones first since I noticed some oil on the boot when changing my spark plugs (I had the valve cover gasket with the spark plug seals replaced). Should I just get one for the rear and one for the front to start off with?

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

It's the coil packs. I changed all six of mine out today. It made a world of difference! I knew my car was fast before, but this is insane! The tugs ands bumps at stoplights are gone. The car always feels ready to peel out and is very responsive. It's like I bought a new mod that made very noticeable gains! Keep in mind; I didn't have any codes from the ECU. I even tried unplugging them one by one with the engine on before and got no hints of a faulty coil pack with that test. The difference brought a huge smile to my face

1blkmaxxx

Ok, my husband ask me to post this for him while he is at work...so bare with me. We have a 1996 Max SE 5spd. We have not had the car long, nor have we ever owned a Nissan. Here is the problem...like everyone else here when he is at a stop his car idles way too rough. Like it shakes really hard. At first it idled at 650ish he thought that was too low and maybe that was the problem so he adjusted the throttle body screw?? (does that sound right?) and set it like 1200 and it was ok but it didn't stay. So now its back down to were it was at first. He used the diagnostic thing and got the code PO130 which is O2 sensor malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1. Is that what is causing this, or could it be something else. We had a 1995 Honda Accord Auto and it idled around around 1000-1500. Why is there such a diff?

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

I would definitely start off by changing the O2 sensor. It's a major contributing factor to that problem. The first two O2 sensor can affect performance if they go bad. The third one behind the cat converter would just set off a light but not cause problems. Different cars idle differently. Someone can correct me if I wrong, but the idle is specific to the engine, not universal.

1blkmaxxx

Do you have to buy that from Nissan? I checked with them they said it cost like $130. Is that a fair price? IS their other places to get them?

VIP Maxima

i am willing to bet i know whats causing this !!

how many of you that are experiencing this problem have an FSTB installed on ur car?

MrDicks95SE

iTrader: (23)

lol mike....

VIP Maxima

u guys should check ur EVAP purge cut valve and make sure the tube is not broken. i had the same problem, my engine torqued and the FSTB broke it !

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

That's a bit high. You can get them at oxygensensors.com or http://www.automedicsupply.com Tell them you heard about them on maxima.org. You might still be able to get a discount. Their cost was about $60. Make sure you get the OEM one and not the universal one. Rarely, you can find it on ebay for a cheaper price, but oxygensensors.com gives you a good warranty on the sensors.

1blkmaxxx

Could you put that in chick terms?!!?!? Sorry, what is that and where is it at?

VIP Maxima

eturnl

Wow this is thread is shocking, I don't understand. I have 165k miles and never had any major problem in my max. The biggest problem i ever had was a bad camshaft position sensor. Thats the only sensor i ever replaced. I dunno, i guess i'm lucky...
I seriously cant believe i dont have any problems after reading this entire thread! Do you guys not do your scheduled maintenance? I've purchased 93octane fuel ever since i had the car (105k miles) I never mix fuels. I used chevron for about 10months, then shell for about 10 months and now im using exxonmobil 12months so far. I also use chevron w/techron fuel system cleaner every 6-9k miles. I don't mean to make anyone feel bad. I just want to know what could be causing so many maximas to have this idle problem.

Good luck guys.

DaGGer

my parents concorde did this until i gave it a tune up. I did the plugs, wires, fuel filter, and all the rest of the stuff. Made it go away.

Starsnstripes

bro take it into the service center and have them check it out.Is your engine light on.

blkhawk500

iTrader: (3)

Same thing happend to me. But the broken tube triggerred the check engine light for me.

I realized that the engine was moving too much so I changed my front and rear engine mounts. Now the engine doesn't move as much and the idle vibration has reduced a lot in Drive. In P or N there is no noticable vibration.

willard00

iTrader: (1)

EXACTLY what happened when my coils were bad...

Sizzam

my car stopped the shaking and that was after i got all new coils and had my intake system cleaned at max tuning. jeff always does a sick job.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

Did anyone ever figure out what is causing the idle problems?
I changed injectors and coils and even the fuel filter from what I read on the org, and I still have the problem.

Sorry for kicking up a 3 year old thread, but I dont think a solution was ever found in the thread (I read all the 5 pages). Can someone throw some light on this?

CosmoKramer00

If you haven't changed all 6 spark plugs, do so. Had a similar issue on mine for 3 years (which I continued to ignore) but once I changed the spark plugs at 130k miles (which were never changed).... and walllla!

g'd luck

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

Did that. Infact, I have new spark plugs (4 weeks), 2 new injectors (2 weeks) and a new fuel filter (2 weeks) and a new ignition coil (last week) and still no luck

praxeo

I think it is a vacuum leak at this point. I was getting codes for MAF, KS, Temp Sensor, and Cylinder 1 misfire. I checked this using screw on side of ecu. Didn't reset the ECU correctly and IAC valve was clicking and like a dumb*** I replaced the IAC valve only to realize that the reason it was clicking was that it was in diagnostic mode. Replaced spark plugs next. No luck. Then I replaced the MAF and KS, codes went away, but still no luck. Replaced Temp Sensor, code went away, no luck. Cylinder 1 misfire was all that remained. Drove it to work day after replacing Temp Sensor, and when I got home it started throwing EGR valve too. Wouldn't start the next day. Replaced the coil pack for cylinder 1 and 3 and still won't start (after testing). I tried to check the rear fuel injectors using the connector trick and I'm getting a bad reading for injector 3 and 5. However, I also have black smoke on the front of my IM. So I'm think about taking the IM off, checking the rear injectors directly (replacing if bad), replacing IM gasket for lower and upper, cleaning IM, replacing rear valve cover gasket. and any thing else that might involve taking IM off so I never have to do it again. I am still really concerned about it being the wiring harness thing that is documented by Nissan. So maybe i will see if I can figure that out first.

I think the problem with finding a solution to the rough idle is that it is a symptom of so many different things. I've been working on it for months, and if I ever find the problem I will make sure people on Maxima.org know what it is. It has been such a grueling process so far.

Laoboi

Ignition coils are probably bad

lilbsdad

I have a 97 gle...its been giving me a headache...it stalls when stopping sometimes(have to pump gas a couple times and it'll stay running)...As im driving and giving alot of gas lights dim then when i slow down RPMs drop and it stalls...I replaced the MAF, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and cleaned TB...The killer part about it is it doesnt do it all the time but i dont trust it enough to drive...SOMEBODY HELP! O yeah i checked alternator and it puts out a ave. of 13.5-14.2...please help

HarborGravel

280k mi on my 95. Most reliable car I've ever seen. Never had a problem till recently when the rear hubs finally went. Anyhoo mine was doing the same thing at a light unless it was in neutral. Check your MAP sensor solenoid valve or EGR control solenoid depending on what manual you are using. It will go bad without throwing a code and will cause all sorts of issues including the one you are having. Mind did...now it don't. After an $80 part of course.

My sister once drove this car for 3 months with....wait for it.... 8 1/2 qts of oil in it and it still runs damn near perfect. And yes..it was a 2 gal bucket and it overfilled or flowed..idk.

Huma

I have same problem & i bought this my first car 10 days back...dont know about cars also,
After reading all posts in this thread I marked ignition coil, spark plugs & injector.
Then I went for local mechanic who checked by putting car lever in 2...and puttin something in front of front of tyres.
It was jerking...so he said bring two new coils...one front and one back...coz he was not sure which one it is.
He said pay money to him only when jerk will go away.

I have FSM and now I want to see some picture of this coil...
or possibly if someone can tell me how to check which coil have fault.
Coz then I may buy used one...Is it possible if I remove one & check jerks...then I remove second & check jerks.
Need your opinion for that

2brosgixxer

I will try to help. First of all, is your check engine light on? Have you checked for any codes? Check that FIRST and report back before you do much else. You can check the codes yourself...look at this link for the how to http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

This link will also help you with some things since you seem to be new to the Maxima.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...on-maxima.html

Second of all, I think you may not be sure where the coils are so see the pic below. You will have to remove the cover on the front of the motor that says "Nissan 3000 V6" on it and you will see this.



The back 3 will not have a cover and will look the same as this.
Here is what the coils look like when removed.


OK, so to test them

1. Start the car
2. Unplug ONE COIL AT A TIME by unplugging the electrical connector that attaches to the coil, you do not need to remove the entire coil to test. See my pic above with all the red on it.
3. If the car runs/idles worse when you unplug a certain coil, then THAT COIL IS GOOD.
4. If you unplug a coil and there is no difference in how the car idles, that is your bad coil.
5. If you buy coils, ONLY BUY OEM ones (like from a Junk Yard car but make sure they are factory ones), do not buy from Autozone, Advance Auto etc

Huma

Thanks bro for the useful info...i printed it...
Actually I am not getting any engine code...if u mean that engine fault light in dashboard.
I am thinking to reset that ECU today...but as its old car maybe its ECU is damaged or not functional or made direct.
Two things recently happened before jerk started...one is that I washed my car two time but didnt opened bonut during that.
Second thing is that car was leaking little black oil thru pipe which is going from engine to aircleaner...i replaced that pipe but it made few things black.
Last thing is that how I will find out difference between genuine cable & other one...& mayb the seller wil give damaged one again.

2brosgixxer

Hopefully someone else will chime in with how to tell and oem from aftermarket...I can only speculate that there will be different markings on them. I'd just take your old one with you if you need to get another and make sure the brand etc are the same. You could test the coils with a volt meter but I'm ot sure how to do it. Sucks that you don't have a check engine light cause it would actually help a lot. As far as I know, clearing the ECU will not help your situation. But anyway, before we play "what it's" check those coils like I suggested and post back your findings.

Huma

I didnt removed the cover...i removed left connector without cover
and started engine...it was jerking same...reconnected it back,
removed middle connector....started engine...no jerks...I felt this is the wrong one
reconnected it back and checked third one at right...stil jerks

Then I thought to remove screw of coils and exchange them...to see maybe plugs have problem,
Removed the left one...pulled out...but I was shocked that it was full of engine oil inside that hole...after watching that I forgot everythin else...coz I felt very bad n upset...someone cheated me so easily....My first car & turning out to be huge problem.
Middle coil came out without any oil...but its rubber nipple was missing,
Third one at right came out properly with nipple.

After that I opened ECU and its sticker was intact...like noone ever used it.
Then closed everythin & didnt find courage to open other three inside cover.

Whats your advise...nipple can be problem? & What about this oil in left hole,
Maybe its same in remaining three...what should i do

2brosgixxer

Well, not sure how you disconnected the coils without removing that cover...unless you just did the back ones??

Anyway, you have some problems as far as that oil goes. This may be helpful for the oil in the spark plug chamber http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...plug-hole.html

As for the "missing" rubber nipple, It's probably just stuck on the plug still...very common and happened to me on the same coil. Just take the coil back out, put some electrical tape on the end of the coil where the nipple would normally go, then put the coil down into the hole which will grab that nipple that's still stuck on the plug. The electrical tape will make it fatter and will keep that nipple on it. Pull it out and remove the tape. Basically, you just need to find a way to get that nipple out of the hole and if you can get it out without damaging it, you might be able to reuse it but it will do the same thing if you ever pull that coil out again. But yes, if that nipple was not tight or is ripped thus making an electrical arc, that may be part of your idle problem.

As far as your test of the coils, I am not sure why unplugging one would make it run better (at least that's what I think you said). I have never heard of something like that...normally if you unplug a good coil, the car will idle rough but if you unplug a bad coil the engine idle will not change so I don't know what's going on with yours. Hopefully someone else will chime in to assist.

Andrenissanmaxima1996

Engine mounts maybe or egr or need new engine lol

Huma

2brosgixr
Yes I did the back ones...coz they were easier,
soon wil try the ones inside cover,
Second thing I didnt kept my head on smoothness of car...instead i was focussin on RPM bump which was main problem,
About the nipple...I have exchanged coil from middle to third one,
So that the one with nipple is in middle and its not causing problem.
Anyways now I want to buy good toolset for doing maintenance & plug change.
But my primary objectiv is to stop the oil and then put new stuf.

2brosgixxer

Stange that it is running smooth just by switching coils around. Also, did you get that nipple out of the hole or did you pull it off the one you put in there? So, if you find that when you try to change the plugs and can't get the socket into the hole to grab the plug, youll find that that nipple is stuck on he plug. Anyway, good luck. Also, you may want to use the search function. A of this stuff has been covered somewhere. but, make sure to use the 4th gen how to section.

Huma

Thanks man...problem solved only coz of you,
that RPM bumps while standing at red signal gone now,
I replaced that coil today.
Hickups started happening while I was drivin at high speed.

Now my next target is to change rear valve seals.
Corner coil of cylinder 1 of rear valve is half dipped in oil,
I wrote that I need ... o ring seals, cover seal, plennum seal.
or is there some other seal I should replace.

One other question is that when I press accelerator full while drivin at 80kmph,
my RPM jerks high and then come back to normal.
Whenever I accelerate at any speed...engine changes gear with jerk which I feel.
Is it somethin wrong with transmission or I need to clean somethin.

Just for side note...all these problems of coils n jerks n all started happenin when I replaced leakin pipe goin to EGR from the engine....oil was very dirty & til now connectors around it hav oil.