A/C compressor bypass belt
06-21-2011, 03:04 AM
#41
i recently just by passed my ac compressor with a new shorter belt and its running well so far. i got the part from advanced auto parts and the part id is 370k6 6pk0940.I also unplugged the electrical plug on the compressor. how long can i drive my car with the ac comp unplugged?
06-21-2011, 06:26 AM
#44
Has anyone that bypassed their A/C compressor had any bad experiences / problems afterward? I've done this twice, with two 4th gen maximas, and had problems. First time, shortly after installing the shorter belt, I burned up my original alternator (@~130k miles). It happened instantly after a round of spirited acceleration. I'm starting to think that maybe the alternator pulley was overstressed by the increase in contact area with the belt and also the new angle that the shaft of the alternator was now pulled towards may have caused the coils inside to short out somehow. This is all just a guess, but it's my best guess. The second time I bypassed the A/C compressor I let the noise go on and on, and one day starting my maxima, I heard a loud thump and checked outside, my outer ring of the crankshaft pulley along with the belt was shot off the car. If anyone else has had issues with this bypass, I'd really like to know. Thanks in advance.
My crank pulley went after about 4 months with the shorter belt but I was convinced that it was a result of 12 harsh winters that the car had been though as the rubber insulator had disintegrated away. The alternator went out about 6-7 months after swapping to the smaller belt (or about 2 months later) but I justified it as non-related because it was the original alternator (and at 160K miles) I figured it had exercised its useful life.
Interesting to know though. I wonder if running a S/C like I am now, creates less force on the pulleys because the belt is longer.
06-25-2011, 06:06 AM
#46
06-25-2011, 10:32 AM
#47
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06-26-2011, 10:01 AM
#49
The compressor is as critical to the operation of the engine as a sunvisor, or one of the wiper blades; it doesn't make a difference if you have it or not.
06-27-2011, 01:15 PM
#51
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08-29-2011, 04:27 PM
#54
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bypass a/c compressor in 99 maxima
Also, if the 25-060355 is a good fit, where can I find that?
Thanks
09-13-2011, 05:46 PM
#55
You can pick up the 25-060355 in any NAPA parts store. Here's a link right to the part on the napa site: https://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal...355_0006343647
I just did this today and thought I'd share a few pictures for any other newbies (like me) that come along looking for some help.
First, take of the wheel. May not be necessary, but makes life easier.
Next, you'll probably have a fun shroud in the way.
Take that off and you'll have a clear view of what you're doing.
Now, just follow the first half of this video to get the current belt out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJzpTHIky18 (Check out his other videos too. They're all useful.)
Then do the reverse with the new belt, skipping the A/C compressor pulley. Note that you may need to loosen the tensioner pulley even more to get your fresh 26" belt on. The end result should look like this.
If you're looking for the plug mentioned by shortdogg and others above, it's right on top of the compressor (you'll need to remove or bend back another shroud on the front of the car to get to this):
There's a clip on top on the driver side that you'll need to undo. Here's a picture of the top of the plug, which you won't be able to see clearly while you're unplugging it. Pretty standard stuff.
It maybe the placebo effect, but I noticed a much smoother idle. No more terrible bearing noises either.
Sorry for the mess of pictures, but I hope this can help someone in the future.
-xustu
I just did this today and thought I'd share a few pictures for any other newbies (like me) that come along looking for some help.
First, take of the wheel. May not be necessary, but makes life easier.
Next, you'll probably have a fun shroud in the way.
Take that off and you'll have a clear view of what you're doing.
Now, just follow the first half of this video to get the current belt out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJzpTHIky18 (Check out his other videos too. They're all useful.)
Then do the reverse with the new belt, skipping the A/C compressor pulley. Note that you may need to loosen the tensioner pulley even more to get your fresh 26" belt on. The end result should look like this.
If you're looking for the plug mentioned by shortdogg and others above, it's right on top of the compressor (you'll need to remove or bend back another shroud on the front of the car to get to this):
There's a clip on top on the driver side that you'll need to undo. Here's a picture of the top of the plug, which you won't be able to see clearly while you're unplugging it. Pretty standard stuff.
It maybe the placebo effect, but I noticed a much smoother idle. No more terrible bearing noises either.
Sorry for the mess of pictures, but I hope this can help someone in the future.
-xustu
10-10-2011, 10:15 AM
#58
You need to loosen the lock nut on the front of the tensioner pulley before messing around with the adjustment rod. Also, even if you are doing it correctly it may still be rather difficult to do, in which case the adjustment bolt is likely to shear off due to corrosion.
10-10-2011, 03:09 PM
#59
i recently just by passed my ac compressor with a new shorter belt and its running well so far. i got the part from advanced auto parts and the part id is 370k6 6pk0940.I also unplugged the electrical plug on the compressor. how long can i drive my car with the ac comp unplugged?
10-12-2011, 06:06 AM
#61
The bolt is turned counter clockwise to loosen and allow for adjusting the pully vertically from above. You do not remove the bolt or the pully at all. This is just to allow some slack on the belt.
10-12-2011, 08:22 AM
#62
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10-15-2011, 09:38 AM
#63
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One more thing, is there a tool that can unscrew stripped bolt but can fit in the tight spot where the tensioner pulley is located? Something like the serpentine belt tool but with the ability to work on stripped or rounded bolts
Last edited by tre2k4; 10-15-2011 at 10:11 AM.
10-15-2011, 10:31 AM
#64
Just in case anyone has this problem, my idler pulley fell off while driving as well as the belt so I had to buy a new belt. 850mm belt works for crank to alternator with idler bypass. Hope this helps someone out 
10-15-2011, 02:09 PM
#65
What bolt are you talking about, the tensioner bracket to timing cover bolts?
10-15-2011, 02:37 PM
#66
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Its the one in the top middle, I need something that can turn it since its stripped and something thats about 10" long or longer.
10-15-2011, 02:39 PM
#67
You mean the nut that locks down the pulley? Any of the suggestions above would work.
11-29-2011, 04:05 PM
#68
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problem using bypass belt on gen 5.5
The bypass belt works great on my 2002 max but you first have to cut or file off a part of the stud that projects beyond a nut in the form of a torq
This is located approximately near the center part of the belt that travels directly from the engine pulley to the generator and would rub against the belt
It seems that Nissan changed the construction after the gen 4
This is located approximately near the center part of the belt that travels directly from the engine pulley to the generator and would rub against the belt
It seems that Nissan changed the construction after the gen 4
12-02-2011, 01:55 PM
#70
It's much easier to loosen the belt tensioner pulley, put on the belt and then re-tighten the tensioner. There are no guarantees that you can "walk" the belt on. It all depends on how tight the tensioner pulley is adjusted.
12-07-2011, 06:53 AM
#71
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My options are limited since my I rounded out the nut on the tensioner pulley. I need a specific tool to allow me to succeed with loosening it with ease. Will a serpentine belt work or what? I just need to get it loose. 
12-07-2011, 06:59 AM
#72
Have you tried any of the tools listed above? It seems like you are determined to ask the question, but are unwilling to accept the answer.
12-07-2011, 07:10 AM
#73
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I didnt need a belt to loosen a bolt, I need a specific tool to get it loose in such a tight space. I know vice grips work but some dont completely fit or either slip off. I need something guaranteed to work.
12-07-2011, 07:46 AM
#74
...okay then.
How about you just TRY? No one here knows your technical skillset, available tools, or how you plan on getting the car up in the air (and how high).
I listed several options above. Nothing is guaranteed to get that nut off, even a wrench of the proper size (as you see now). Instead of wanting others to do your work for you, why have you not saved the time and actually tried to get it off yourself?
Why not just pull the bracket off and remove the nut off the car?
I listed several options above. Nothing is guaranteed to get that nut off, even a wrench of the proper size (as you see now). Instead of wanting others to do your work for you, why have you not saved the time and actually tried to get it off yourself?
Why not just pull the bracket off and remove the nut off the car?
12-12-2011, 08:12 AM
#78
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I finally got it off. WD40 doesnt work as much so I went ahead and got some PB Blaster to get it loose and it worked like clock work. Im surprised no one has mentioned this in this thread. I sprayed some initially but it didnt get it loose enough so I sprayed some more and left it sit over night. It was really loose by morning.
The only thing is its hard to get the belt over the cylinders. I loosen the the adjuster as much as possible.
The only thing is its hard to get the belt over the cylinders. I loosen the the adjuster as much as possible.
02-20-2012, 09:53 PM
#79
Just did this past weekend. Auto Zone Duralast belt 360K6. How your read it is 360 at the beginning is 36.0 inches length, K6 is 6 ribs(grooves) which what you need to fit the grooves of the pulleys correctly. This is the perfect size, belt was ~$14. Great relief, i had a whining sound which went up and down with revs and at some point had me thinking could be timing chain, whew.
Im guessing its the same setup as the 4th gen ?
