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Old 10-12-2007, 01:17 PM   #1
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How do you tell if an AXLE is bad?

My mechanic says I have two bad axles. I got under the car and I cannot tell a good axle from a bad one. Any ideas?
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Old 10-12-2007, 01:33 PM   #2
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i hear this again and again on posts. people steering wheels are vibrating or pulling or their alignment isnt consistent and they go to a local midas and are told that they need to drop 500 plus dollars to replace an axle. ive even been told about a month ago that i had a bad axle on my 96 GLE when it was in fact a tire balancing issue. seems like mechanics are quick to declare that the cause of all kinds of problems. i guess because its a relatively easy but lengthy job and therefore costs you a lot.

i would take it to two or three other mechanics and see what they say. dont mention that one of them said it was an axle issue.
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Old 10-12-2007, 03:36 PM   #3
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u take it and jerk it back and forth... (lol yea i dont know any way of saying it differently) to tell if there is a lot of movement...

second if you hear clicking noises while u drive and make turns.. is another thing to look at.. also if the boot is torn.. just consider it bad..
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:22 PM   #4
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F550 said it, listen for clicking sounds while turning. Torn CV boots allow dirt and debri to get into the CV jointand thus destroy the CV joints on your axles.
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Old 10-12-2007, 05:43 PM   #5
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As they said. Check your boots. Turn your wheel all the way left, then right checking for torn boot. You may have to reach in and feel for an opening in the boot. The axle can be bad even if the boot isn't torn. Go to an open parking lot, turn wheel all the way one direction and accelerate, again in the opposite direction. A bad axle will CLACK, CLACK, CLACK.
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Old 10-12-2007, 07:04 PM   #6
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If im turning left and it makes that clicking noise, thats my driver's axle, correct?

Im pretty sure it is because of all that greasy purple gunk i have all over my drivers side, but it doesnt hurt to make sure.
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Old 10-12-2007, 07:17 PM   #7
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not to hijack ya thread or anything b/c this will probably help you also, im having the same problem with the drivers side axle im assuming. had it replaced a few months ago and its still warranted. i take it back to the place wanting my warranty filled and they look and say the axles fine, which could be a total lie. but what my question is, is there any sort of other situation that can cause a clicking and vibration like an axle would? maybe this could help both of our situations.
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Old 10-12-2007, 08:46 PM   #8
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Loose lug nuts, try check that.
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Old 10-12-2007, 09:31 PM   #9
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not to hijack ya thread or anything b/c this will probably help you also, im having the same problem with the drivers side axle im assuming. had it replaced a few months ago and its still warranted. i take it back to the place wanting my warranty filled and they look and say the axles fine, which could be a total lie. but what my question is, is there any sort of other situation that can cause a clicking and vibration like an axle would? maybe this could help both of our situations.
a lowered car that's what ate my axles i was too low
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Old 10-12-2007, 09:40 PM   #10
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I have a bad axle on my passenger. where can i buy a new one from? autozone etc.? and what specific axle? because i see different list from the axle.
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Old 10-12-2007, 10:00 PM   #11
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Old 10-12-2007, 10:37 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 67whitegoat View Post
As they said. Check your boots. Turn your wheel all the way left, then right checking for torn boot. You may have to reach in and feel for an opening in the boot. The axle can be bad even if the boot isn't torn. Go to an open parking lot, turn wheel all the way one direction and accelerate, again in the opposite direction. A bad axle will CLACK, CLACK, CLACK.
I made a thread simliar to this and posted 2 video clips about the actual clicking. I was told to drive in an empty lot and turn either way to hear it. I have found out that it was my cv joints and the boots are fine no tear in them I am sure that I will have to do the driver's side axle. I have most shop say you do one side you have to do the other side.
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:30 PM   #13
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well mines lowered so thats prolly what happened but the warranty dont say nothing about lowered cars haha
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Old 10-13-2007, 06:35 PM   #14
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If your going to replace one side you might as well spend the time and do both at once. No sense in getting dirty twice. As for the question concering other sounds coming from the axle region, try tightening your Sway-bar end links. I replaced mine only to find out I didnt tighten them all the way and boy did they make a racket. I am refering to the end that attaches to the LCA.
You can purchase axles at any local parts store, just be sure you check to see if you have ABS or not. Dont want to get the wrong axles. Also, if you go to Advanced, Pep Boys or Autozone, you are probably going to pay a core charge, get it back on return.

Good luck
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Old 10-14-2007, 09:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vqmaxman View Post
I will have to do the driver's side axle. I have most shop say you do one side you have to do the other side.
You don't "have to" do anything. That shop is just trying to make money. If only one side is bad, you need only replace that one side. One does not affect the other and there is no labor to be saved. I would however, inspect the other side for boot cracks or tears, and re-test the car (parking lot) to be sure all of the clacking noise is gone.
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Old 10-22-2007, 03:06 PM   #16
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Sorry about hijacking. I just took the max into Nissan, and they recommended replacing the font axles (only outer boots are busted). The car has 120k on it and from reading some of the posts, I think 120k is a good time to replace the axles instead of just putting on new boots.

So my question is: Raxles : $119 + $149 + $35 shipping
Nissan : $120 x 2
Are the Raxles much better than OEM to justify the extra $60-$70
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Old 10-22-2007, 06:48 PM   #17
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my passenger axle is shott...... so if anyone wants a video of wata bad axle sounds like lemme know )

going wednesday to replace it i cant take the vibrations anymore and boaty feel on turns, feels like my wheel is gonan come off.
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Old 10-22-2007, 06:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellfyre View Post
Sorry about hijacking. I just took the max into Nissan, and they recommended replacing the font axles (only outer boots are busted). The car has 120k on it and from reading some of the posts, I think 120k is a good time to replace the axles instead of just putting on new boots.

So my question is: Raxles : $119 + $149 + $35 shipping
Nissan : $120 x 2
Are the Raxles much better than OEM to justify the extra $60-$70

i dont think puttin new boots on such a hot idea....everything in the boot is exposed to dust and debree if u put a new boot on it over time the axle will start to clank
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:49 PM   #19
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I just got my replace last week. Bought the axle from Pepboys $60 + your old core. not bad. car ride better now. . woooo
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Old 10-23-2007, 05:04 AM   #20
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I have two torn boots... but it's riding smooth as hell, I'm gonna go take care of it this weekend.
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Old 10-23-2007, 12:58 PM   #21
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The front axle was replaced 2 monthe ago at the Lantz (the local shop) by $200. After that the wheels are aligned to get rid of vibraition, it still has vibration over the 60mph.
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Old 10-29-2007, 09:58 AM   #22
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Long story short: Clicking when turning, progressing to a harder knocking sound when you deviate from a straight line even on the freeway; worsening play when you alternate lifting and pressing the throttle slightly - it's your CV joints. I put in Raxles and was completely satisfied.

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Old 10-29-2007, 12:55 PM   #23
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I have Raxles, and they were a dramatic improvement over stock. Definitely recommended.
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:57 PM   #24
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They don't even have to make noise to be bad. My left outer CV joint exploded as I pulled into traffic Friday at lunch. Lucky for me it was a life time warranty raxles axle. Too bad he did not have 1 in stock, they had to pick up my axle today and rebuild it. One of those weekends when it's nice to have more than one car.
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Old 11-03-2007, 09:04 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxFanatik View Post
my passenger axle is shott...... so if anyone wants a video of wata bad axle sounds like lemme know )

going wednesday to replace it i cant take the vibrations anymore and boaty feel on turns, feels like my wheel is gonan come off.
you got a link to that video?

when i turn full lock to the left, i hear a clicking that sounds like it's coming from the passenger side, is that correct?

i haven't had a chance to look at the boots yet though, but i put in new axles a couple years ago when i did the 5spd conversion.
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Old 11-07-2007, 12:55 PM   #26
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i hear this again and again on posts. people steering wheels are vibrating or pulling or their alignment isnt consistent and they go to a local midas and are told that they need to drop 500 plus dollars to replace an axle. ive even been told about a month ago that i had a bad axle on my 96 GLE when it was in fact a tire balancing issue. seems like mechanics are quick to declare that the cause of all kinds of problems. i guess because its a relatively easy but lengthy job and therefore costs you a lot.

i would take it to two or three other mechanics and see what they say. dont mention that one of them said it was an axle issue.
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Hi everyone!! I am so glad I found this community! I am a new do-it-yourselfer! I figure between my fiance, myself and all you smarties on this site, we can fix all that needs to be done on my 4th gen. My biggest question/answer I haven't found here.....which is, how the heck do you guys work under your cars? We don't have a driveway and my parking spot is on gravel. I want to use the drive-up ramps, because I think the jack and supports would be a little scary on the gravel. I have plenty of things to look at, but most pressing are the axles, CV joints and to replace an alternator. Darn thing died on Saturday and I've been researching all over this site for some GREAT info!

So my question is, will the ramps do the trick for my situation or should I get a hydraulic jack (2.5 ton cap minimally of course)? Thanks so much in advance!
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Old 11-07-2007, 01:33 PM   #27
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To service the axle you need to remove the wheel so you need a hydraulic jack and jack stands to support the vehicle.

Also I am compelled to shatter a few myths in earlier posts:

- There is no set test for a bad axle. It is mostly deduction and experience. Fix the easy and obvious stuff before assuming you have a bad axle. Vibration is usually out of balance wheels. Noise can be anything and needs some experience to determine the source.

- Torn boots does not equal bad axle. A bad inner CV joint will cause vibration on acceleration but can have a solid boot. A bad outer joint will make a clacking noise in tight turns and the boot can be solid.

- If you find a torn or leaking CV boot early you are far better served by cleaning, repacking grease and replacing the boot. Nissan sells boot kits with grease, bands and boot for about $30. Yes, $60 rebuilt axles are available but you gotta also get lucky because many of them will be bad out of the box or will not last. Raxles and higher priced rebuilt axles are best if you decide to replace. The labor is the same. I’m sure you’d rather do the job once.

- There is no reason and no savings to replacing both axles at the same time.
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Old 11-07-2007, 05:46 PM   #28
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if your are goin to replace an axle change your ball joints at the same time. also the tie rod ends. i replaced my ds axle at 130,ooo only to be replacing a lower ball joint the next weekend. the allignment shop told me they were bad when i took it in after the axle change. they suggested to get the other stuff replaced also since i was under there i did. i wound up spending around 200 a side after all was said and done. but it was worth it
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Old 11-07-2007, 06:26 PM   #29
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if your are goin to replace an axle change your ball joints at the same time. also the tie rod ends. i replaced my ds axle at 130,ooo only to be replacing a lower ball joint the next weekend. the allignment shop told me they were bad when i took it in after the axle change. they suggested to get the other stuff replaced also since i was under there i did. i wound up spending around 200 a side after all was said and done. but it was worth it
riiight
nevermind that you dont have to touch the ball joint or tie rod end to do axels.


my .02 for the guy who was considering just doing boots, the labour is more intensive to just do a boot, and the price is 'APPROX' 50$ or less difference from buying an entirely new / rebuilt axel. Also, there is going to be dirt that got in there, its innevitable, regardless you can clean all you like, the damage will have been done, and you'll likely be putting joints/axels in it not too far down the road.

oh and for the newcoming DIYourselfer, pave the driveway
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