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Bad sputtering and hesitation.

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Old 04-23-2010, 01:34 AM   #1
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Bad sputtering and hesitation.(video included)

Problems:1. Car sputters and makes rumbling noise when given a fair amount of gas(around 1/4 throttle).
2. When at a stop and in gear jerking occurs and noise can be heard in the rear when in reverse...My guess is a bad motor mount but why does it jerk when in R or D but not N?

I checked my cel codes and i got Egr solenoid valve, Ks and Vss. I also Ran the A/T OBD and there is something wrong with my throttle sensor circuit which i couldnt find any info on.. Im goin to take care of the egr on Saturday and hopefully that will clear the Ks since its less than a yr old i think its fine. I cleaned my maf as instructed by the stickie and it helped a bit with the rough idle but not the great low end power loss and hesitation. Also the engine smooths out when it gets passed 3k.(Tach goes nutty quite often so not 100% +)

Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by JoeyMax96; 04-23-2010 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 04-23-2010, 04:02 AM   #2
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I think a problem with your VSS will cause all kinds of issues with your computer in closed loop mode (under 3k rpm). How does the car feel when you go WOT from a stand still?

And could you explain "tach goes nutty" a little more. I guess the needle jumps around? Does it happen at all engine speeds?
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Last edited by ajm8127; 04-23-2010 at 04:07 AM.
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Old 04-23-2010, 10:52 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by ajm8127 View Post
I think a problem with your VSS will cause all kinds of issues with your computer in closed loop mode (under 3k rpm). How does the car feel when you go WOT from a stand still?

And could you explain "tach goes nutty" a little more. I guess the needle jumps around? Does it happen at all engine speeds?
From a stand still WOT makes the engine feel like it is flooded and it also feels like im towing a elephant up until i get passed around 3-4k. The tach needle has a mind of its own. Sometimes it just goes all the way past redline and stays there or it would be super sensitive when i apply the throttle(needle revs alot higher than actual engine does). How can i check my VSS or go about replacing it?
This may sound stupid but try and think of your cars engine making 4 notes(1,2,3,4 1,2,3,4)Normal. Mine goes (1,2,1,2,1,2,1,2,)Up until 3-4k where it will sound normal again(1,2,3,4,1,2,3,4)
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Old 04-23-2010, 11:25 AM   #4
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OK. I know in the first post you said you had a bunch of codes, but you said EGR, VSS, KS. Could you re-read the codes, and post either the number of flashes or the P number if using an OBDII reader?
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:10 PM   #5
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OK. I know in the first post you said you had a bunch of codes, but you said EGR, VSS, KS. Could you re-read the codes, and post either the number of flashes or the P number if using an OBDII reader?
Im using the On board Diagnostic and received codes 1005,0304 and 0104 which goes away and comes back. I dont have the OBDII reader. The AT test showed me the 3rd flash being longer than the rest.
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Old 04-23-2010, 12:12 PM   #6
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Heres a video i just uploaded

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRZyuwdQnlg
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:03 PM   #7
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first offf....how the hell u REDLINE past 8000 rpms!!! U got an issue there too man

In the video, i hear sputtering. U gotta get rid off them codes. fixing KS will help with power loss. Sputtering is either Coils, infectors, spark plugs, PCM, ECU, or blocked exhaust lines. Check all and clear codes.

Lol @ no homo. Dont worry man im black and i wear flip flops in the summertime, no homo lol.
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Old 04-23-2010, 01:15 PM   #8
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first offf....how the hell u REDLINE past 8000 rpms!!! U got an issue there too man

In the video, i hear sputtering. U gotta get rid off them codes. fixing KS will help with power loss. Sputtering is either Coils, infectors, spark plugs, PCM, ECU, or blocked exhaust lines. Check all and clear codes.

Lol @ no homo. Dont worry man im black and i wear flip flops in the summertime, no homo lol.
I think its my VSS that makes the tach look like it revs that high but it doesnt. If i clear the codes and they dont come back does that mean the issue was resolved? Because i had 4 codes EGr solenoid valve,evap canister,Ks and VSS. I cleared the codes and the only one that didnt come back was the evap canister purge control valve. The ECU is less than a yr old and spark plugs were changed recently. Im gonna try and check out my coils and injectors today. Would my Egr valve being clogged up cause these issues?
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:37 PM   #9
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codes are saved until the computer is reset or pushed out by other codes. That's why most service done to the engine recommends disconnecting the negative battery terminal. As long as the codes are in the computer the car will try to compensate for them, which can cause other issues. Them being gone is great but it could be from a short too and if it is they will come back, so keep an eye on them.
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:49 PM   #10
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codes are saved until the computer is reset or pushed out by other codes. That's why most service done to the engine recommends disconnecting the negative battery terminal. As long as the codes are in the computer the car will try to compensate for them, which can cause other issues. Them being gone is great but it could be from a short too and if it is they will come back, so keep an eye on them.
So if i had my KS replaced recently and the code wasnt cleared the car would still act as if it was a bad KS?
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:58 PM   #11
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The EVAP code can take some time to come back.

I think it's obvious that you have an electrical issue. Lets look at your codes.

1005:
Code: P1400 | Description: EGRC Solenoid Valve
Click the image to open in full size.

0304:
Code: P0325 | Description: Knock Sensor
Click the image to open in full size.

0104:
Code: P0500 | Description: Vehicle Speed Sensor
Click the image to open in full size.

Notice that a possible cause of each problem is "harness or connector". What I recommend doing is checking the wiring under the hood. Looking at EL-290 of the 1996 FSM I see that all of these circuits run in the harness that goes across the front top of the engine, above the left bank of cylinders. I would start checking there. The harnes curls aroung the front of the engine, and goes through the firewall to the ECU.

I still can't quite wrap my head around the tach. It gets its signal directly from the ECU. But that's the least of your problems right now. Focusing on getting your VSS wokring is the first step. That should makes your car run a little more normal below 3000 rpm.
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:12 PM   #12
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Notice that a possible cause of each problem is "harness or connector". What I recommend doing is checking the wiring under the hood. Looking at EL-290 of the 1996 FSM I see that all of these circuits run in the harness that goes across the front top of the engine, above the left bank of cylinders. I would start checking there. The harnes curls aroung the front of the engine, and goes through the firewall to the ECU.

I still can't quite wrap my head around the tach. It gets its signal directly from the ECU. But that's the least of your problems right now. Focusing on getting your VSS wokring is the first step. That should makes your car run a little more normal below 3000 rpm.
I think the bad oil leak i had caused a short in the VSS because it is completely covered in oil gunk.
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Old 04-24-2010, 06:28 AM   #13
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Well at the very least, you can take the harness off of the ECU and test the resistance between the pins that go to those sensors and that solenoid. The spec resistance values are in the Engine Control section of the FSM.
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