4G-riken

from where do i atack this prob.. what do i remove i have my lower oil pan off and cant see from where to start!

plz help any info will get me on my way
im a good DIY'er and ill tackle any thing i just realy dont know where to start

Gamble

iTrader: (1)

Did you look at the FSM? (factory service manual)

4G-riken

umm no..but im on my way i bought the pump amd by looking at the new one and what i can see of the old one from the botom of the car with the oil pan off i need to remove all of the timing chain cover ...im on my way but im having trouble geting the pulley off i dont know if its a left or right tread..serching the fourms for my anser

Gamble

iTrader: (1)

Crank pulley? Standard thread, turn left and use a impact.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Is there a reason for replacing the oil pump? I haven't heard of this part dying at all on any 4th gen...

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I'm thinking you're replacing a part only to find out you really need the whole engine.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

bump!!

i did some searching on my oil light coming on then going off once i've got the oil in the engine. i'm trying to figure out how to change the oil pump. is there a how-to somewhere on this forum. figuring since the 4/5th gen pretty much share teh same engine, i can find a how to in teh 4th section and be alright.

adroitcaptor

For the Good of the order...

What??? Why would you have the engine on if there was no oil in it?
If your oil light is coming on when you start the vehicle and then turning off, you most likely either: are really low on oil, or the oil is too thin (wrong oil or broken down oil), or you are running synthetic on an older VQ (often results in low oil pressure).

As stated above - FSM. Or do you have specific questions?
Granted the FSM does not go into specific detail of each step.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

oil was in my engine, when i said 'when oil is finally in teh engine' i meant that once the oil started moving around the components the noise went away. i think the oil i use is synthetic..i use the valvoline max life 10w40 in my car and do my oil change every 3K miles. i lose a full qt every oil change and i do top it off when im low on the oil stick..i usually top it off at 1200 miles then by teh time the 3k rolls around its time for an oil change so i just drop the oil and refill it.

i'm wondering how extensive changing out the oil pump is, mainly are timing components having to be touched...from my other thread. its kinda been confirmed its in the location of the timing cover..

adroitcaptor

The oil pump is not likely your issue.

I would non-synthetic before I would change the oil pump.
Being you have to remove the timing chain, water pump, etc, I would DEF test your oil pressure before replacing the pump.
I would also check your pick up, filter feed, and general gallery flows before replacing a pump.
Lastly, figure out why your engine is consuming that much oil.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

the engine is 200k...oil/valve seals are likely the issue as it smokes under a load. thats a given. as far as switching back to non-synthetic, i dont have that much time. whatever it is, its getting worse. so i need to figure out the problem before i absolutely have to purchase a new engine. ill see if i can get my oil pressure tested though. thats a helluva lot of work. i'm not doing it though, i'm just going to pay my father in law to do it and pay what he charges. i'm having the oil pump and switch priced. but i will see if he can check the oil pressure....BUT

is it even reasonable to check the oil pressure when the noise is not being made? i'd only be able to check it when its not being made and for it to make the noise long enough for it to be made the car HAS to sit for at least 15-20 minutes.

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

I've been using Amsoil full synthetic and I have the oil light at start up. Blackstone labs always comments on how my wear metals are lower than average when I get my oil analyzed, so I think that proves that the oil light at start up does not cause the engine to wear any faster. If you are going to buy something, buy a leak down tester, not an oil pump. You can also try a thicker oil like 10w-30. But for god's sake, don't go changing your oil pump if you simply have the oil light come on at start up.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

if you've read i use 10w40...btw its not just the light, i also have noise...and when the light goes, so does the noise

adroitcaptor

The first question, IMO, should be - how long is this occurring after start up.


So testing the pressure is easy and should give you all the info you need.

Disconnect the oil pressure switch. (IIRC, it should be on the rear of the engine toward the trunk, on the pass. wheel side, and right above the oil pan seam.)
Connect your pressure gauge. (I made one up for a few bucks. You can also buy the Nissan adapter.)
[Here is where I would venture away from the FSM.]
Have someone else start the engine.
Watch the gauge in relation to the sound you hear. (Try and guestimate the length of time if more than nominal.)
If they coincide you have found your problem. (There will be a slight delay since the switch is the first to get oil and your valve train is last.)
If they do not, move to blockage assumption.
Start the engine, after having sat, with the oil cap off and view oil/sound correlation in the same manner as described above.
If sufficient oil is not seen I would test pressure on the top half. THAT is the only real 'issue' IMO. The prior are simply symptoms of high mileage/wear.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...lp-please.html