max-nutcase

Gonna be doing both cv's on my 98 gle, would like to hear from orgers on which ones you have had good luck with, im undecided on whether to buy new ones from autozone or remans with the lifetime warrantee.(or if other parts store brands r better)..i know none of them are great but i figure if i get the lifetime warantee even if i gotta do it every 2 yrs so what... of course im gonna be checking all the ball joints n chit while im at it..... opinions would be appreciated!

CS_AR

I've bought 5 from AdvanceAuto over the past 4 years -- all with a lifetime guarantee. I had one that I thought was bad so I returned it for replacement -- no questions asked. The issue turned out to be from a wheel bearing.

It looks like you can get a set of AA ToughOne brand for $98.69 + tax and specify pickup at your local store or free shipping using the TRT30 online coupon code. That's less than $50 each..

I always replace the inner seals with new CV axles after the first time I replaced one and the old seal leaked.

max-nutcase

Ya , was thinkin about whether or not to replace seals also....is that an oem or bust , as far as generic brand seals go? and they just push in right? easy peasy?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I installed an APWI from Rockauto on my passenger (right) side on 03/29/13. I drive 250 miles a week and have had no problems with it at all. They are brand new, but made in China, YMMV, literally .

Left $42.79, Right $48.79, and $35.62 shipping to (Farmington) CT= $127.20. Online coupon code for 5% off knocks it down to $120.84.

CS_AR

I've never used OEM seals. On my first job I thought I could get by without replacing the seal. When it started leaking I picked up a National seal from AA because they had it in stock and it was late one evening. It worked and I never looked back or tried any other brand. I can tell you that I can press in a new seal on the driver side with my fingers. You've got to be careful not to push the seal in too far.

On the passenger side, the location makes it difficult to reach the seal. I took the new seal to Lowe's and found a piece of PVC coupling and pipe that were the right size to make a seal installation tool. I had enough pipe to extend it through the side where I was able to gently tap the seal into place.

Do you live in an area where rust is an issue?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I used Nissan seals on my 97 and 2000, mainly because they were cheaper than the local auto parts store.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

225,000 on original CV's. Rebooted 2x.

max-nutcase

yes, rust issues....why do u ask?

CS_AR

There are two ways to remove the US passenger side axle. One is to remove the carrier bracket from the side of the engine, the other is to remove/release the axle from the carrier bracket. On my first axle job, it was on my 95 Maxima that was an Ohio car with a reasonable about of rust. On that car I had to soak the area in PBlaster and use a chisel to separate the axel from the carrier bracket. Let me see if I have some pictures so you size up the effort associated with the passenger side.

Here's a slideshow from my first replacement job on the 95 model where I removed the axle from the carrier bracket.

I've done the axle job both ways.. I guess it depends on the car as the way I would approach it if I need to do it again. You might use the slide show to decide which approach is best for you.

You may want to reboot your CV joints instead of buying new axles. Sometimes I don't have a lot of time to try new things -- so that determines the approach I might take for a given repair.

http://s286.photobucket.com/user/Rid...e_Shaft?sort=9

Something else to consider is your location and conditions on whether to reboot or replace with a new shaft. I've noticed different results come from aftermarket parts depending on the use location. I'm in an area where road salt is used sparingly if at all.. Temperatures are moderate and the roads are generally in good condition. I know my replacement part choices might be different if I lived in Duluth MN.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

In OP's other post he states they are already clicking. Unfortunately its too late for a reboot.

dmaxima708

My cv on my driver side Is clicking when I turn either way and ive checked both of them and the drive side one has a lot of play but the passenger side doesn't. but could it just be my torn boot causing the clicking noise? or do I need a new one??

asand1

iTrader: (1)

The joint is hosed because the boot let the grease out and water/dirt in. Replace the shaft and then check boots periodically.

dmaxima708

so how long do I have to drive on it before having to replace it?

CS_AR

I think they will tell you when its time.

Sent from my Z998 using Maxima