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Title says it, but only the ring with the ridges. Thought it was the ac compressor at first (don't know why) so bought a bypass belt (shorter belt) but discovered that was wrong lol. So now what can I do besides buying an entirely new crankshaft right now? Is there a way I can still use the shorter belt and bypass the crankshaft pulley?
Time for a new crankshaft pulley. Many of us on here have had that experience. Usually the outer ring will slide inward causing the main belt to rub against the power steering belt that causes it make noise.
Most likely there are some members with recent purchase suggestions. I got lucky and found one on eBay a few years ago. I'm sure you need to get this fixed ASAP?
Here's a picture of a separated pulley. You'll want to replace the front main seal also. I've been using National (by Federal Mogul) seals for years without issue.
Where are you located and what parts stores do you have in your area?
Time for a new crankshaft pulley. Many of us on here have had that experience. Usually the outer ring will slide inward causing the main belt to rub against the power steering belt that causes it make noise.
Most likely there are some members with recent purchase suggestions. I got lucky and found one on eBay a few years ago. I'm sure you need to get this fixed ASAP?
Here's a picture of a separated pulley. You'll want to replace the front main seal also. I've been using National (by Federal Mogul) seals for years without issue.
Where are you located and what parts stores do you have in your area?
Less than a year ago, you could get a Dorman 594-188 delivered for under $50 on eBay. Looks like that has gone up to around $78 or so. Most places charge up to twice that, so shop for the best price. And yes, the Dorman crank pulley/harmonic balancer is a quality part!
That would be my first choice.
And while you have it off, replace both belts and the front engine seal. There are videos on YT to show how.
rock auto had it for 35.00 when mine went bad last summer. got an oem seal and new belts oem. i believe the seal is metal/ rubber, so i'd stick with oem on that. about a little over an hour, make sure you check the belts 2 weeks later for slack, tighten if necessary.
Less than a year ago, you could get a Dorman 594-188 delivered for under $50 on eBay. Looks like that has gone up to around $78 or so. Most places charge up to twice that, so shop for the best price. And yes, the Dorman crank pulley/harmonic balancer is a quality part!
That would be my first choice.
And while you have it off, replace both belts and the front engine seal. There are videos on YT to show how.
I got mine for around $50, but that's with my Napa discount. Definitely recommend changing the belts, as they can get chewed up when pulleys stop working or slide out of place. Just so you know, there's not a whole lot of room there, and changing the power steering belt will be a pain in the a$$.
I got mine for around $50, but that's with my Napa discount. Definitely recommend changing the belts, as they can get chewed up when pulleys stop working or slide out of place. Just so you know, there's not a whole lot of room there, and changing the power steering belt will be a pain in the a$$.
Okay so guys how do I actually replace the pulley and seal for it?
1) Remove the outer serpentine accessory belt. The belt tensioner requires the pulley nut to be loosened before you can loosen the belt tensioner adjustment.
2) Remove the PowerSteering belt. I usually loosen the pump and use the tension adjuster to bring slack so the belt can be removed. There is a "walk it off" method where screwdrivers can be used to force a belt out of the pulley groove. Usually my belts are new and tight so go ahead and just loosen the PS pump to remove the belt.
3) Disconnect the fuel pump fuse and start engine to burn out any fuel that may cause the engine to fire up during the crankshaft pulley operation.
4) I use a breaker bar with an IMPACT socket and the starter method to free up the crankshaft pulley bolt. Here's a video below. Note that I leave approximately 1 inch of free travel between the breaker bar end and the wooden block or concrete floor (when using a breaker bar with a rubber handle-grip). Since the gas has been removed and the car will not start, I tap the starter a couple of times until the bolt comes loose. I've used this method about 5 times over the past 5 years to remove crankshaft pulleys.
I just bought a new pulley entirely. I'm about to post this then go out to work on changing it. Only thing I have a question about is putting the pulley on. Do I need to press it on?
I just bought a new pulley entirely. I'm about to post this then go out to work on changing it. Only thing I have a question about is putting the pulley on. Do I need to press it on?
did you buy an oem replacement seal?? and, there's a bolt that holds it in place, you have to re-tighten after replacing the seal and you should replace belts unless you already did that.
did you buy an oem replacement seal?? and, there's a bolt that holds it in place, you have to re-tighten after replacing the seal and you should replace belts unless you already did that.
So the actual process was WAY easier than I thought it might be (first time). Changed the pulley, both belts, and oil while I was at it. Used the starter method to take the bolt off and wedged a flat screwdriver through the pulley and between the block and body to tighten it. Literally, the only challenge I had was finding the torque speck for that bolt.
WHERE THE HECK CAN YOU FIND A TORQUE SPEC FOR THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT ON A VQ30DE?!?!?!?!?!?
I never did find the spec, so I just torqued the mess out of it... I may have over-torqued it by a lot, and I do know the ramifications of that, but I only plan on keeping this engine in her until I do the ever-so-popular 3.5 swap (unless there's a chance of me fitting a DET in there. Send me to another thread if there is one).
But just for reference, where is that torque spec? I couldn't find it in the FSM for the life of me!
So the actual process was WAY easier than I thought it might be (first time). Changed the pulley, both belts, and oil while I was at it. Used the starter method to take the bolt off and wedged a flat screwdriver through the pulley and between the block and body to tighten it. Literally, the only challenge I had was finding the torque speck for that bolt.
WHERE THE HECK CAN YOU FIND A TORQUE SPEC FOR THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT ON A VQ30DE?!?!?!?!?!?
I never did find the spec, so I just torqued the mess out of it... I may have over-torqued it by a lot, and I do know the ramifications of that, but I only plan on keeping this engine in her until I do the ever-so-popular 3.5 swap (unless there's a chance of me fitting a DET in there. Send me to another thread if there is one).
But just for reference, where is that torque spec? I couldn't find it in the FSM for the life of me!
Same question, getting it off is one thing, but how in the hell am I supposed to get that bolt back on when I used the starter bump technique to take it off? Don't have an impact wrench only the sockets.
Same question, getting it off is one thing, but how in the hell am I supposed to get that bolt back on when I used the starter bump technique to take it off? Don't have an impact wrench only the sockets.
If you can give me about an hour and a half, I can take a couple pics to show you what I did without an impact. Not the best, but it worked pretty good.
If you can give me about an hour and a half, I can take a couple pics to show you what I did without an impact. Not the best, but it worked pretty good.
Alright cool thanks, also, what size is the bolt again?
Here's how I tightened the crankshaft pulley bolt. There's a tiny, conveniently placed lump on the engine block right behind the pulley, barely enough to wedge something under it
So I put the head of a heavy, flat tip screwdriver (beater) under that with the handle catching on the body (yellow circle in the pic below) when the pulley turns.
Just be cautious. Obviously, the head of the driver may slip if you don't watch it. It haldled as much torque as I could put on it at that angle, though
Here's how I tightened the crankshaft pulley bolt. There's a tiny, conveniently placed lump on the engine block right behind the pulley, barely enough to wedge something under it
So I put the head of a heavy, flat tip screwdriver (beater) under that with the handle catching on the body (yellow circle in the pic below) when the pulley turns.
Just be cautious. Obviously, the head of the driver may slip if you don't watch it. It haldled as much torque as I could put on it at that angle, though
Thanks a lot man, you tightened it by hand with the wrench and socket?
Np man! Yeah, I just used a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 19mm socket, but I would rather rent a torque wrench from AutoZone and find that spec.
Okayy my last post, so total tools needed are: 19mm impact socket, torque wrench, breaker bar, speed handle ratchet, 10mm socket to remove cover/splash guard, anything else? Working on it tomorrow finally (been a long month lol) and want to get the tools ready
Okayy my last post, so total tools needed are: 19mm impact socket, torque wrench, breaker bar, speed handle ratchet, 10mm socket to remove cover/splash guard, anything else? Working on it tomorrow finally (been a long month lol) and want to get the tools ready
Okayy my last post, so total tools needed are: 19mm impact socket, torque wrench, breaker bar, speed handle ratchet, 10mm socket to remove cover/splash guard, anything else? Working on it tomorrow finally (been a long month lol) and want to get the tools ready
My bad, dude!
Ok, in order of use:
10mm socket for cover
14mm deep socket and at least 9" of extension (tensioner pulley, may need to unscrew the pulley itself [14mm wrench] to get it to slide)
19mm x 1/2" socket, pipe, and either a breaker bar or torque wrench (depending on wether you know the torque spec for the crankshaft pulley bolt)
Then a means of holding the pulley in place when you torque the bolt down.
It's a simple job, really. Much easier than I anticipated. Have fun with it and let us know how it works out!
10mm socket for cover
14mm deep socket and at least 9" of extension (tensioner pulley, may need to unscrew the pulley itself [14mm wrench] to get it to slide)
19mm x 1/2" socket, pipe, and either a breaker bar or torque wrench (depending on wether you know the torque spec for the crankshaft pulley bolt)
Then a means of holding the pulley in place when you torque the bolt down.
It's a simple job, really. Much easier than I anticipated. Have fun with it and let us know how it works out!
Summary: lol well taking it off was a real pita.... because my battery was mostly dead lol so waited a day and had autozone charge it. put it back in, hit the key a few times and viola! Everything was great and easy until putting it back on lol but just had my dad push down on a long leverage bar that was hooked into one of the spokes and I hit it with the torque wrench on the specifications that dorman provided until the infamous click that it was torqued up. Put the belt on and I got my baby back, thanks so much for the help here!
Summary: lol well taking it off was a real pita.... because my battery was mostly dead lol so waited a day and had autozone charge it. put it back in, hit the key a few times and viola! Everything was great and easy until putting it back on lol but just had my dad push down on a long leverage bar that was hooked into one of the spokes and I hit it with the torque wrench on the specifications that dorman provided until the infamous click that it was torqued up. Put the belt on and I got my baby back, thanks so much for the help here!
11-25-2015, 06:48 AM
