bigmike249

so I pose I question to my 4th gen comrades . do I or do I not scrap my 4th gen . shes got 188,xxx miles. powersteering pump is shot out leaks like crazy . all the bushing are bad . one strut is bent but all are probably need to be replaced . changed all the spark plugs accept on one due to I believe the previous owner cross threaded the plug . of course in the toughest plug tube to get at . and the wheel bearing is going out agin ........ so my friends . do I bother trying to breath life into this old girl or should I start over with a new 4th gen

PH98I30

Under 200K is low miles, but that is a lot of work to do on it. How is the rust situation? I am at 155K now with no problems at all, but I am getting old and don't like doing the hard work anymore. Cross threading a plug sounds like bad news.

JoshG

Depends the overall condition of the car, is the body in good shape? interior? to be honest 188k is still fairly not high but not low. Could fix the problems u have or find a cleaner 4th gen?

Dave H.

iTrader: (5)

Do you have the money/time/interest/knowledge in fixing those yourself? Are you able to go out and buy a newer car tomorrow without putting yourself in debt?

There are plenty of other cars out there, but they may have similar problems. You know what is wrong and that is helpful.

Good luck.

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

If the body is great condition drop new motor if not, Scrap that piece of junk. And remove good parts ecu,coils, evap parts. And transfer parts to new 4th gen.

JoshG

^ word. Remember any car u have.. its gonna cost something to have it..If u go buy another one, ur buying someone elses history. If you know urs well.. I say keep yours. Or if u go new, expect to be in debt the second u buy it, and you won't get whatever back when you bought it . The amount shown wont go away until paid in full. If your car is paid off.. all u got to worry about is repairs. Which is alot cheaper, from my experience. But you have to really put money away specifically for future repairs, so when the time comes. You have it there. You can't use that money for anything else but car repairs. Everyone's situation is different, just my recommendation.

bigmike249

As far as rust there isn't much this a florida car not near the water . body has a couple small dents nothing to serious but the paint is not great . as far as money I don't have a lot of spare change . any repairs that would be done to the car would be done over time . as far as knowledge I have a fare amount but still learning . I find that youtube and the good old form is my friend lol

bigmike249

yea I'm starting to lean towards scrapping her and getting another 4th gen . preferably 99 manual instead of this auto lol

bigmike249

ill post some pics for you guys tonite when
i get off work

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

99 cali spec cars are garbage. Now the 99 fed spec is the way to go.

JoshG

99 have their NATS issue, get a 98 so u dont have worry about that part.

bigmike249

does the 98 have the same bodystyle ? I had the NATS issue already about a year ago . computer wiped the key

LJay

I have a 99 Cali spec & haven't had to deal with NATS, never was in a situation with the car to trigger it either

bigmike249

count your blessing when the nats goes its a expensive pita . my car was stuck at my job for 2 days till I could get some one out there .

bigmike249

sorry I forgot to post pics last night . ill post tonite . I cant make up my mind as to weather to scrap her or not lol

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

97-99 are identical on the outside.

On the inside, 97 still had analog gages and the older climate control system. 98 and 99 are almost twins with digital odo, newer automatic climate control etc. Almost twins. NATS is the only obvious difference between the 98 and 99.

There are other little things, of course, like swirl valves on the 99. You would notice that the lower intake manifold is different on the 99.

bigmike249

JoshG

the body is in great shape, I wouldn't get rid of it yet. just fix the issues and clean those headlights! makes a difference.

bigmike249

unfortunitly the pics are deceiving both the bumpers the clear is flaking . theres a couple dents and paint fade . I wouldn't mind fixing it up but its just weather to throw cash I don't have at this or save up and get a shiney new one that's a five speed

pixelporsche

iTrader: (1)

My Maxima is almost identical :O I do empathize with the love hate relationship... I've got a Durango that i've sometimes repaired things every weekend, while still DD'ing it 50 miles a day. It hasn't been the most reliable, but I can't part with it. Nobody appreciates it like I do. Despite its growing list of issues, acquiring another might mean even worse issues... unless I spend way too much money on a fantastic specimen. However the transfer case is about to go out, rear main started leaking and that might be the deciding factor.

Now if you're bored of it... definitely, go get another one :>


Meanwhile, Maxima is getting timing serviced or an imported engine.. just waiting to hear from a local importer [oxy moron?]

97_GXE

I can't say what you should do, but "scrap" seems a harsh word. By scrap you don't mean sell it to a junk yard for $200 right? Regardless of what's wrong, remember the KBB value is probably around $2,500-$3,500. That's not sale price, that's the overall value. Meaning, you wouldn't gain money scraping versus keeping and fixing.

I would ask, what do you use the car for? Short trips around town? Or long 2,000 mile road trips? It's probably not road ready, but the small issues could be fixed. Struts sell buy 3 get 1 free. Or, just replace 2 and do the others later. Struts go bad all the time. Doesn't mean I bother fixing them lol. Power steering pump...a reman or new one. Bushings can be cleaned and re-greased. Maaco does bumper paint specials often.

Earlier this year, I was told by two mechanics that my rack and pinion was bad, power steering was leaking, and that I shouldn't drive my car anywhere. Over $1,200 of work. A friend recommended I sell it and I almost wanted to smack him. I didn't ****ing get a $1,600 paint job, new windshield, and buy $350 worth of tires just to sell it a year later. I opted to just re-balance the tires and get a couple alignments instead. Still floating on the highway no issues...though yes, the rack and Pinot could use changing. But doesn't mean the car won't operate without a new one.

My car was kinda ugly when I first bought it with some issues at 133,000 miles. I bet the previous owners would have never dreamed of it going to 300,000+ miles and being completely renovated with Infiniti leather seats

komik

I say keep it, but maybe I'm crazy. When I bought my '96 it had:

• 230,000 miles
• broken windshield
• dead battery
• CEL for misfire
• Dented hood / fender / bumper and missing corner lamp
• all radio wires cut off behind stock HU
• dead driver side window motor
• AC button wedged in with a piece of metal
• various dents on nearly every body panel
• stock spoiler missing

8.5 years later and I still can't bring myself to part with it.

JoshG

I mean look at it this way, If u repair the things it needs and it may last you another 30k miles before the next repair, maybe more? you get your moneys worth. I don't understand when people repair things on their car and say "gotta sell it NOW!" immediately after the repair. They get too scared to keep the car honestly, If u plan to keep the car, its cheaper to fix whats broken rather than selling whatever you have and dealing with someone else's issue. The KBB value has nothing to do with it, yes its cheap. But then that means you can pay off the car easily and all you have to worry about is repairs. Remember this is a good bulletproof car, this is no Chevy cavalier knock off crap.

BronxSleeperMax187

I had my 2K for almost 10 years now, always looking at new cars and dreaming maybe one day this engine will die and I can finally get A new car....then I read the problems here and on other car forums people have and realized why would I want payments and stress when this is the best freaking engine and car ever.....keep it IMO one day you won't be able to find these last made in Japan made ones at all.....quality is different.

bigmike249

so guys ill be starting up a build thread for the old girl . im taking all of you guys advice and im gonna rebuild her . keep an eye out for the new thread i should be posting it today or tomorrow with a parts list already on the way and future plans for the car . any suggestions or input is always welcome . thanks for all the support

CS_AR

Hey Big Mike. You've got a nice looking 4th gen my friend. I'm glad to see you decided to give her a midlife refresh. I think 188,000 miles is young. I just finished the engine and struts part of a midlife refresh for my latest 98 model (a.k.a Max IV). It has been a fun and very rewarding project.

As far as a cross-threaded plug, when I bought Max III some years ago, I found a cross threaded plug. It looked like someone, at a Buick/GMC dealer the previous owner liked, had installed plugs using an air ratchet. I was able to cure the cross-threading problem when I installed new NGK (copper) plugs. I think if you remove the UIM hardware that is in your way, you'll be able to get a better position on the old plug.

Here's a trick that I use to install plugs into deep plug wells and hard to reach areas that has worked well for me over the years. I use a scrap piece of fuel line that place over the end of the plug with enough reach to go into plug well and allow me to start the thread. This piece of line provides a more direct feel on how the plug is lining up with the threads than I can get with my plug socket and extension. Once I can feel the plug is treading correctly and there is no danger of cross threading, then I just pull out the hose and use my regular plug socket with extension.

Here's a picture of me using a fuel hose to start the threading on a new NGK plug for my VH45DE (V8 Nissan).



This is a very old spark plug trick that goes back to the 1951 Chrysler Corp. hemi engines. I see others have adopted this trick over the years.



As for rebuilt power steering pumps, I've had good luck with the Cardone brand that I purchase at AdvanceAuto. I order the part online using the TRT41 discount code for $40 off and specify in store pickup at a local store. I take the old pump with me to compare to the new one and to get immediate $50 core credit at pickup. The pumps have a lifetime warranty. The part number is Part No. 21-5933.

Here's a better deal on that pump at RockAuto if you can wait for shipping and want to hassle with returning the old pump for the core charge credit.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....356780&jsn=348

Roughly six years ago I replaced the Nissan pump with one of the rebuilt Cardone pumps on my Q45. Then three years later I replaced another pump on my 99 Maxima SE.

If you get into replacing the power steering pump, be sure to pick up a couple of Nissan copper PS pump "banjo bolt" crush washers before you start.

pixelporsche

iTrader: (1)

Good stuff. Are you going new engine, or remove the head to repair the spark plug thread? I was reading along, thinking 'oh that's not horrible, but can be discouraging to repair all at once...' and then you mentioned the cross threading :/

I'd definitely follow progress. Also, mine is the exact same color... what is the name of this paint color?

SmoothMax

iTrader: (2)

Do this ^^ You won't regret it! I was at a similiar crossroad back when I had a 96 Pebble Beige Metallic auto. Shopped around, found a 96 Artic White Pearl 5spd and never looked back.

Icemule

No! Scrapping a car thats fixable is a crime. Find a u pick place, make a list then go get as many of the parts you need on one of the many 1/2 price days they have during the year. I bought my 97 se at auction for $500.00 bucks. It was a mess. The interior was trashed and I replaced all the seats and panels for less than 120.00 . (still needs driver seat, can't find a good one) New water pump, free nissan alternator when Nissan replaced the water pump, "recall" (only job a mechanic has done and you guys know why) iact, ignition switch, starter, pass axle, multiple speedo's, tie rod ends, inner tie rod, radiator, thermostat, all hoses, cleaned egr passage (thxs pmohr video) getting ready to do the driver axle and dreaded knock sensor and sub harness and the list goes on.

Never would have been able to do this without the org, I feel like I belong to something and no matter what problem I have with this car I KNOW people here will stay at it with me to find a solution to the problem. Can't say that about my 2001 kia that sits broken with 89k on it and there help site.

Do I ever want to throw in the towel? YES! Just the other day with my latest cooling issue, but Dennismik talked me off the ledge. With every thing I have bought including the water pump work and buying the car I say I'm in it for $1900.00 tops all jy parts except starter, axle and iact, water pump. Alternator free from Nissan from that old recall even though I just replaced the alternator a month earlier and that one was not Nissan either. Some shenanigans going on there I believe.

Who says the next car doesn't have bigger issues that crop up. I'll keep the problem I do know vs the problem I know nothing about. Sorry for the loooong message, guess I have more feelings for our cars than I thought.

JvG

The cross threaded spark plug hole should be repairable.
I cross threaded a plug in the head of my Nissan hardbody 4 cyl.

A tap and some grease took care of the problem.


Your other repair needs sound normal for a car at that mileage. Provided that you do your own labor and shop for good yet inexpensive parts, the repair costs are manageable.

Josh G is correct about the concept that of the car can be driven several more years, you will be money ahead.

Once the car is fixed, it will drive and act like a much newer one.

vqmaxman

So lux97max can get some parts in. So the beloved mo county cops can back him up.