CS_AR

One important maintenance item that I have always found to be sorely neglected on every used vehicle that I've purchased is the fuel filter. Considering the accessibility of the fuel filter on our 4th gens, I try to change mine every 30,000 miles or at the same maintenance interval when I change the air filter. This maintenance interval is a personal preference on my part. Your mileage may vary based on climate and usage patterns.

Fuel filters are cheap insurance to keep the fuel delivery system healthy. So I want to share some pictures of what can happen when the fuel filter is neglected.

For changing your fuel filter, refer to the Field Service Manual - MA section in this link: http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/

Max IV's Fuel Filter Story

1) Purchased a used 1998 Maxima with over 230,000 miles. Based on the external condition it appeared to be way over due for a filter change.

Can you guess how long the old filter had been the car before I changed it? I can't.



2) Opened Filter

After removing the old filter, I wanted to pop open the plastic top to see the condition of the old filter material. The plastic top stayed intact. Unfortunately a large amount of dirty fuel poured out once I used a hammer and popped off the top.

Just look at the condition of this filter. Would you call this a mess?



3) Dirty Injector Screens

All that dirty fuel has to go somewhere. It goes right to your injector screens. You can see the dirty screens in this picture.



4) New Nissan OEM Filter

Here's a new Nissan OEM filter and fuel line compared to the old Fram filter. I was able to clean up and move the old line insulator from the original hose to the new Nissan HIPREX line.



Keeping your fuel filter maintained helps reduce fuel pump stress. Also, I've noticed that Nissan Fuel pumps last longer when the fuel level isn't allowed to go below 1/4 of a tank. Sometimes I can hear a Nissan fuel pump make a humming noise if the fuel level starts getting close to empty. On some Nissan pumps, that extra stress from a low tank can result in the pump and related control components taking on unnecessary heat that results in a shortened run life.

I ordered an assortment of hose clamps for intake plenum refresh and fuel line replacement from Concept Z Performance. Mainly because I like the site organization and the site has good pictures of whatever parts that I'm looking to purchase. Also, I've found CZP's staff to be very helpful when you call with questions. If you're familiar with the Z32 community and approach used for maintenance, you'll recognize some some carry over into my A32 and G50 projects. We all know how picky Z32 owners are about their cars. It's a good practice to follow. So treat your A32 like its a Z32 and you will be rewarded with many years of excellent service.

Note I've seen some ORG members use the larger Z32 fuel filters on their A32s. Right Wiz?

For fuel line hose, I will only use Nissan HIPREX replacement hose. Nissan HIPREX will last well over 15 years. Considering the outstanding quality of HIPREX compared to some upper top shelf aftermarket hose, the price is reasonable. HIPREX is available by the foot or in a 7 foot roll. Check with your favorite Nissan/Infiniti parts source for bulk hose prices because they vary greatly by seller.

Here's a link to the Fuel System | Hoses & Lines section at CZP.

https://conceptzperformance.com/item...c=NIS300&p=190

JvG

I agree that changing the fuel filter is a small expense that has good benefits. Such as insuring that more expensive and critical parts such as the injectors an fuel filter can last as long as possible. Or to not break down inconveniently and expensively.

Yet other members seem to feel that they are doing themselves a favor by neglecting their car "to save money".

maximaxi

For those who don't want to pay dealer prices for a Nissan OEM fuel filter, there is also the Bosch 71650 for about $10-15. Made in Japan and most likely a reboxed OEM filter, although the can is painted black instead of silver. Another good fuel filter is Mahle KL171, made in Germany.

Is it really necessary to replace the hose?

To check the condition of the filter, you're better off cutting around the can rather than trying to pop off the plastic top.

CS_AR

No kidding. It reminds me of the expression "We tote the note to save you money." just bring your paycheck in every Friday and we'll keep you in wheels.


I agree. It looks like AdvanceAuto sells a Mahle shaped filter as their house brand. I've got a few of them collecting dust in the workshop that I've picked up as part of some package deal to hit a larger discount tier. I should use them before they get too old.


Nah. It all depends on the condition of the old hose. After 18 years, many hoses on this particular car had become too brittle to remove without putting a slit in the area where it mates with the connecting pipe or hose. It will be easy to change filters from here forward.

No doubt. I need some type of can cutter.

komik

I haven't replaced fuel filter on my Maxima in (I think) about four years. It's on my list to do very soon. Further motivation to replace it is this: I was driving to work the other day when I noticed a strong odor of gasoline. I quickly got off the highway, into the parking lot, and shut off the car. An under-hood inspection revealed fuel all over the bottom half of the filter and everything below it.

Luckily I had nitrile gloves and an assortment of tools in the car at the time. After it cooled off, I pulled the filter. The hose clamp screw on the inlet side of the filter was extremely loose. Once removed, the filter and hoses looked fine. I reinstalled the filter, tightened the clamps, and started the car. No more leaks around the filter.
But now fuel was leaking at the far end of the hose on the outlet side of the filter. The hose itself was backed almost completely off the fitting. The flared end of the metal was visible past the end of the hose! Engine off, shoved the hose a good inch further onto the metal, tightened that clamp, and now no more leaks.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

and this is why i keep my almost 22 y/o 95 max, cause i did all the regular maintenance ( well, most of it ) and then some. i wish i had the money to rebuild or replace the block as she's at 280,000 but still running strong. oil leaks, timing chain rattle, would be costly to fix so i did my injectors in the rear and 2 new coil packs and new plugs and a bunch of hoses that were falling apart and walla!! btw cs, your max seems awfully muddy like it was in a flood, where did you pick it up from?

CS_AR

Carfax reports it lived in a little farming community about 130 miles from me. I think the last owner must have lived on a road with mud. It has been a job to clean up this one.

As soon as I purchased this car, I noticed the transmission fluid was surprisingly clean -- like it had been recently changed. Since it shifts good, I didn't worry too much about it on a car with over 230,000 miles.

It turns out that during the recent midlife refresh, I noticed the transmission had the usual five digit salvage yard receipt numbers painted on the side of the case along with the transmission mounts. Also from the strange way a transmission wires (reddish brown socket) were wrapped around the dipstick housing, I suspect the transmission was replaced within the past year or so. The transmission lacked the caked on mud that was around the bottom of the engine.

In the glove box I found where some guy named "Billy Bob" did take the car in for the usual oil change, tires, alignment, and brake jobs. The tires are in very good shape so I can get at least 1-2 years service before I need to worry about replacement.

Based on the owner's location, I suspect that "Billy Bob" took the car on a duck hunting trip and got it in some deep mud that was sucked up into the Evap canister and into the transmission via old seals that were most likely leaking at the time. The transmission must have failed soon afterward thus causing the replacement. The Evap canister and other codes I found when I purchased the car from a Craig's list used car shark tell me the previous owner must given up on resolving the codes and traded the car for a vehicle better suited for a rural lifestyle.

I can tell you that mud + oil leaks turns into a strange asphalt like material that is no fun to remove. So I will complete the rest of the cleanup when I get into the drive line and suspension bushing refresh.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

you mean" duck hunter " lifestyle....

martyl45

Replaced my fuel filter couple weeks ago, the lovely original one from 1995. Wasnt blocked but its old, replaced my front fuel injectors and they were a little dirty on the pintle caps. I do agree with 1/4 tank rule, I try to push my family to do this especially during the winter. Not to mention that who knows what gunk is on the bottom of the tank after 20 years.

M in KC

If anyone can rehab a neglected ride, CS AR can. I need to change the fuel filter on our '94 Camry this weekend. We've only had a couple of months so no telling how long its been in service.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i think he goes to bed with the fsm every night and has maxima dreams

maxima297

These fuel filters are no more expensive than an oil or air filter. They range from $5.49 - 16.69 retail at Napa. It makes no sense to me how people would rather their vehicle's performance go down the $hitter than spend chump change for a filter.