Bose Woofer Cut Off Fix For 2000 Maxima
03-03-2009, 09:02 AM
#41
03-03-2009, 10:14 PM
#42
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6
Alright so here's what I did--Im really hoping Im not totally f**ked. I cut the three wires going into the circuit board and I cut the 3 wires coming out of the circuit board. I then matched up the incoming and outcoming wire colors and tied them together. Is that what I was supposed to do? This didnt work at all for me.
03-04-2009, 08:16 AM
#43
Alright so here's what I did--Im really hoping Im not totally f**ked. I cut the three wires going into the circuit board and I cut the 3 wires coming out of the circuit board. I then matched up the incoming and outcoming wire colors and tied them together. Is that what I was supposed to do? This didnt work at all for me.
the best sollution that i found is to completely remove the circuit board all together just cut the zip tie holding the plug and u will see were the boards connected just unlplug all the connectors and re connect the ones that are left leaving the board out. i did this and it does give u a pop noise on start up and u do get some of the other hi/low noises but there not really that noticeable.
03-05-2009, 05:54 PM
#46
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6
Alright, well Ive pretty much given up on fixing this thing because it's still not working. However, now that Ive snipped the wires going into and out of the circuit board(and possibly screwed up the circuit board previously by attempting to solder the joints) eliminating the whole board, how screwed am I if I want to get an aftermarket speaker/woofer? The original plug coming into the trunk I have not touched. Also, anyone know of a decent price to replace that rear woofer with something else? I was told that I would need a new amp as well since it wont be bose. I really am not looking for anything really expensive, just something that sounds atleast equivalent to the original bose woofer.
03-12-2009, 02:28 PM
#47
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 11
Great writeup Teddie18! You can't imagine how helpful that is to me. I have had this problem for quite some time, and have had no luck trying to get it fixed via Nissan or other stereo places. Thanks again!
I have just have one quick question. If I were to bypass the circuitboard, aside from the pop noise on startup, what kind of hi/low noises would the sub produce? Is it like a constant hissing sound, or is it something different? Thanks.
the best sollution that i found is to completely remove the circuit board all together just cut the zip tie holding the plug and u will see were the boards connected just unlplug all the connectors and re connect the ones that are left leaving the board out. i did this and it does give u a pop noise on start up and u do get some of the other hi/low noises but there not really that noticeable.
05-01-2009, 08:02 PM
#52
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Toronto, ON
Posts: 4
Thanks Teddie18. Your repair is applicable to the '01 with a few minor changes. I have posted the steps on the Bose Woofer Cut Off Problem for 2001 Maxima thread. Hope it works for others as well.
05-25-2009, 07:54 PM
#53
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 1
thanks for the post bro. when I took off the chip i could shake the relay and the pins would move so it was an obvious connection problem... a lil solder and voila.... got that bass back.... (chip only on the 2000 maxima's i think)
05-26-2009, 12:41 AM
#54
It's possible to completely remove the "circuit board". As far as I understand it (my stereo knowledge is limited) that board is used to cutoff higher frequencies being sent to the sub. If you completely bypass it, the sub should work, but all frequencies will be sent. It's a double-edged sword since you'll get some noise you're not used to, but also here some of the lows that weren't low enough to make it through the filter.
09-01-2009, 11:17 AM
#60
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 2
Im a newbie here!! Just found the website. Usefull so far but, I have bypassed the circuit board now, but still nothing. Could it be the speaker itself?? I kind of ruled out the amp b/c when unpugged, no speakers at all work. IS THERE A fuse in the bose amp??
Last edited by ez2000max; 09-01-2009 at 11:20 AM.
10-11-2009, 10:56 AM
#61
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
2003 Bose Woofer Cut Out Fix
I have just fixed the Woofer Cutout on a 2003 SE w/ Bose without bypassing the circut board.
Tools Needed
10mm ratchet with extension.
T15 Torx Bit
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Electronics Cleaner (Found at Radio Shack)
Arctic Silver Thermal Compound (Found at Radio Shack)
The issue for me lied in the amp located in the back corner of the trunk.
Using the 10mm remove the amp from the chasis and unplug the connector cable. (NOTE: Don't be alarmed if your speakers don't work at all whild this AMP is out)
Next remove all 8 Torx screws from the amp and remove the bottom casing. then remove the 2 phillips head screws that are all that is left in holding in the circut board. As you remove it you will see that there are two panels that touch the case that are covered in a pink putty. If it looked anything like mine that putty is everywhere. Use the electronics cleaner to clean the contacts and circut board if any putty got on it. Then put arctic silver on the contact points. DO NOT let the compound touch the circut board just put one stripe down the middle of the contact point.
Finally put the circut board back in and replace all screws and plug back in. That part of the amp will no longer over head and the signal should be good.
NOTE: I am in no way responsible for any damage you may cause to your car or stereo system. This a very simple procedure to do, took me about 30 minutes. Also this will void your bose warranty if you still have one.
Tools Needed
10mm ratchet with extension.
T15 Torx Bit
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Electronics Cleaner (Found at Radio Shack)
Arctic Silver Thermal Compound (Found at Radio Shack)
The issue for me lied in the amp located in the back corner of the trunk.
Using the 10mm remove the amp from the chasis and unplug the connector cable. (NOTE: Don't be alarmed if your speakers don't work at all whild this AMP is out)
Next remove all 8 Torx screws from the amp and remove the bottom casing. then remove the 2 phillips head screws that are all that is left in holding in the circut board. As you remove it you will see that there are two panels that touch the case that are covered in a pink putty. If it looked anything like mine that putty is everywhere. Use the electronics cleaner to clean the contacts and circut board if any putty got on it. Then put arctic silver on the contact points. DO NOT let the compound touch the circut board just put one stripe down the middle of the contact point.
Finally put the circut board back in and replace all screws and plug back in. That part of the amp will no longer over head and the signal should be good.
NOTE: I am in no way responsible for any damage you may cause to your car or stereo system. This a very simple procedure to do, took me about 30 minutes. Also this will void your bose warranty if you still have one.
10-26-2009, 07:01 PM
#64
Well, two posts up the guy says he has the fix. i don't know if it works but he says it does.
Pretty easy job too, except for climbing up in my trunk to detach things. Anyway, thanks to the original poster, you rock.
12-12-2009, 03:04 PM
#69
02-11-2010, 09:58 AM
#73
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 68
I have an 03 with the sub cutout....Does anyone know if this will work on the 5.5 generation??
I found people taking out there stock HU to solve this problem i would rather not have to do that... this sounds alot easier.
Has anyone done this on the 5.5 generation??
thanks guys
I found people taking out there stock HU to solve this problem i would rather not have to do that... this sounds alot easier.
Has anyone done this on the 5.5 generation??
thanks guys
02-11-2010, 10:10 AM
#74
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
I have an 03 with the sub cutout....Does anyone know if this will work on the 5.5 generation??
I found people taking out there stock HU to solve this problem i would rather not have to do that... this sounds alot easier.
Has anyone done this on the 5.5 generation??
thanks guys
I found people taking out there stock HU to solve this problem i would rather not have to do that... this sounds alot easier.
Has anyone done this on the 5.5 generation??
thanks guys
02-11-2010, 01:30 PM
#75
I have an 03 with the sub cutout....Does anyone know if this will work on the 5.5 generation??
I found people taking out there stock HU to solve this problem i would rather not have to do that... this sounds alot easier.
Has anyone done this on the 5.5 generation??
thanks guys
I found people taking out there stock HU to solve this problem i would rather not have to do that... this sounds alot easier.
Has anyone done this on the 5.5 generation??
thanks guys
It's certainly less complicated than the 5.0gen fix.
Tried that a few yrs ago, and what a PITA...no workie either.
This seems easy and str8-fwd -- aside from the raping i;ll get @ radioshack.
Might try to source this goo elsewhere?
If I get'r fixed, I'll let you know.
Sick of my "phantom" sub -- but too cheap to replace it.
gr
02-13-2010, 08:22 PM
#78
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: raymond,Maine
Posts: 15
04-01-2010, 08:51 AM
#80
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 20
Wow, did some searches and found this thread...can't wait to give it a try....I haven't actually tried this yet, so don't jump on me for asking...but is the grille on the parcel shelf difficult to remove?
the other question I had was I have been contemplating just adding an amp and an aftermarket sub....where would the best place be to "bite in" to the factory system to get the signal....? I searched and saw the schematics for wiring codes coming out of back of deck, but are these low level (like RCA) or speaker level? The Aamp I have is an older Mono block Alpine that can accept speaker level, so could I take the signal right off the + and - that go into the sub?
Going back to the problem with the OEM sub not working, could the problem be further up the line, in which there is no signal getting to the sub?...thus my idea of taking the leads from those wires wouldn't work, because they had no signal? sorry for the confusion created...
the system is not great compared to aftermarket installs I have done in my other cars, but my daughter mostly drives the Maxima, and I will be hooking up a USA SPEC NI15 cable this weekend to the Bose deck for her Ipod...she is content with the Bose OEM system, although having a bit of bottom end via the factory sub will be nice...if it doesn't work, then I 'll try to wire up the aftermarket amp and aftermarket sub in a box I have not being used.
Thanks
the other question I had was I have been contemplating just adding an amp and an aftermarket sub....where would the best place be to "bite in" to the factory system to get the signal....? I searched and saw the schematics for wiring codes coming out of back of deck, but are these low level (like RCA) or speaker level? The Aamp I have is an older Mono block Alpine that can accept speaker level, so could I take the signal right off the + and - that go into the sub?
Going back to the problem with the OEM sub not working, could the problem be further up the line, in which there is no signal getting to the sub?...thus my idea of taking the leads from those wires wouldn't work, because they had no signal? sorry for the confusion created...
the system is not great compared to aftermarket installs I have done in my other cars, but my daughter mostly drives the Maxima, and I will be hooking up a USA SPEC NI15 cable this weekend to the Bose deck for her Ipod...she is content with the Bose OEM system, although having a bit of bottom end via the factory sub will be nice...if it doesn't work, then I 'll try to wire up the aftermarket amp and aftermarket sub in a box I have not being used.
Thanks