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I'm trying to remove the driver side LCA, and I can't fit my socket on the 27mm nut due to the tranny being in the way Which tools has anyone used to access this nut effectively?
Remove the LCA with the torque pin still attached. You have to remove an additional 4 22mm bolts, but the entire thing comes off much easier.
Then take the torque pin off while it's on the ground. Only way to do it.
Remove the LCA with the torque pin still attached. You have to remove an additional 4 22mm bolts, but the entire thing comes off much easier.
Then take the torque pin off while it's on the ground. Only way to do it.
Well I guess i'm screwed since car is off the ground and I've already taken everything off except the drivers side LCA...oh well you live and learn, thanks for the info, much appreciated!
Remove the LCA with the torque pin still attached. You have to remove an additional 4 22mm bolts, but the entire thing comes off much easier. Then take the torque pin off while it's on the ground.
I have a question about new struts. I recently order a new KYB strut online and when I opened the package the strut looked like this:
Note the shiny part of the tube on top. When I looked at it I immediately thought it was leaking oil, but some online thread said that it could just be assembly lube from the factory.
What do you guys think? Should I go ahead and use it or return it?
I have a question about new struts. I recently order a new KYB strut online and when I opened the package the strut looked like this:
Note the shiny part of the tube on top. When I looked at it I immediately thought it was leaking oil, but some online thread said that it could just be assembly lube from the factory.
What do you guys think? Should I go ahead and use it or return it?
Thanks.
It's probably fine. Remove the strap and test to make sure it has pressure.
It's probably fine. Remove the strap and test to make sure it has pressure.
I did what you said and it does have some pressure but doesn't feel enough. It definitely compressed faster than the other one too. Didn't take too much effort for it to go down either. The other one was made in the USA and this one is made in Japan.
Update: I came back later and compressed the strut a couple of times again and it now feels fine. I guess I had to let the oil settle down inside and work the struts until it gets stiff. I guess everything is okay now.
Last edited by MaxiNoob98; 09-26-2015 at 11:03 PM.
lately on facebook, someone posted that sentra struts would be compatible on 5.5th gens, could drop the car a substancial amount (which hasnt been confirmed...) What do you guys think?
Assuming that Sentra struts would fit on the Maxima (of which I have no idea if they would or not), I think that the extra weight of the Maxima and it's bigger engine would blow them out fairly quick.
Additionally, if the statement is that it would drop the car, then clearly the strut perches are different on the Sentra which would yield all sorts of suspension geometry issues with (presumably) the OEM springs.
So I have a 97 Max and am looking into doing the suspension. I am a total noob about these cars and parts for them. IDK what brands would be best, IDK how difficult installation would be. I just simply don't know anything about it, but I love the sleeper aspect of the car and would really like to make some improvements to the handling. Ex. Instead of taking a corner at 25 I would like to have the ability to take the same turn at 30 35. Also a list of places I can go to shop around. Places besides andysautosport and carid, those kind of sites. Thank you in advance for any helpful responses.
Please read this thread. The majority of your questions are answered within.
The only aspect that is not covered is difficulty of installation - hence I will answer that now, with a question back to you. How mechanically inclined are you?
This is (basically) the procedure, even though it's for a 5th gen. Do you have the tools and comfort to perform this?
Hi Dj, I finally decided to take the plunge. I'm having all sorts of front end noise & problems, so it was either buy a new car or sink some $$ into this one. It's an '01 manual AE 113,5xx with original suspension.....but still low miles and I love my max so I figure if I'm gonna go for it, might as well go all the way. Planning to do a suspension overhaul, and do the work myself....been watching youtube vids and reading the orgs instructionals like it's my job.
Would you mind checking my parts list? I think I finally have everything. I tried to post it all in the text box but it got pretty messy so I attached an excel file instead.
You'll see I have some questions in there:
1- what other parts do I need for the spring/strut swap, that don't come with the hr/kyb sets (or that I can't reuse)? I listed parts that you recommended throughout the thread, but may have missed some.
2- how do I know which wheel spacers are the correct ones? H&R lists 2 or 3 different model #'s for the sizes I want.
3- do I have the correct rim size? (there were several x5 options)
4- should I go with bigger spacers with the Motegi rims because of the offset? (from 5mm/20mm to 10mm/25mm) Obviously I don't want any wheel well rub, and I'd like them to look better by sticking out slightly further, but not to the detriment of performance/handling.
Thank you again for this resource - this thread was super helpful for a newb like me trying to figure out what I need.
This is quite the homework you've done! I see a lot of good work here, but I also see some duplications. Though this would indeed be a complete overhaul, some of these parts are not required to be new and can be reused.
Further, just from a financial perspective. You're spending nearly 100% the value of the car in parts. I think this is overkill and the job should be taken in phases.
If I listed out all my thoughts, this post would be novels long. I propose we jump on the phone and chat it out. Please PM me your number and availability, and I'll give you a call.
This is quite the homework you've done! I see a lot of good work here, but I also see some duplications. Though this would indeed be a complete overhaul, some of these parts are not required to be new and can be reused.
Further, just from a financial perspective. You're spending nearly 100% the value of the car in parts. I think this is overkill and the job should be taken in phases.
If I listed out all my thoughts, this post would be novels long. I propose we jump on the phone and chat it out. Please PM me your number and availability, and I'll give you a call.
Cheers,
djfrestyl
Thanks so much for offering to help. Pm sent.
Re: cost; yeah I've been struggling w this for a while. Does one put $2500 towards a new car? Or 2500 to re-furb the old max? Already spent $$ on cattman exhaust and new rad support....and still under 115xxx so feeling like I should keep the car for more years. Maybe that's stupid idk.....I'm sure all you veterans have dealt w the same dilemma. Anyway sorry not trying to derail thread. Looking forward to your advice thx.
Location: 32 miles north of Nissan AZ Proving Grounds
Posts: 239
Originally Posted by TSelanne
Thanks so much for offering to help. Pm sent.
Re: cost; yeah I've been struggling w this for a while. Does one put $2500 towards a new car? Or 2500 to re-furb the old max? Already spent $$ on cattman exhaust and new rad support....and still under 115xxx so feeling like I should keep the car for more years. Maybe that's stupid idk.....I'm sure all you veterans have dealt w the same dilemma. Anyway sorry not trying to derail thread. Looking forward to your advice thx.
My input would be to spend it ONLY if you LOVE the car and plan to keep it. I have done most of the items on your list in the past few years (staged as suggested above). I plan to keep this car for many years as it is a great commuter (125k now). By doing what you propose, you are on the way toward another 115k.
Since you plan to buy tires, consider wider wheels with lower offsets to potentially save the cost of spacers.
Re: cost; yeah I've been struggling w this for a while. Does one put $2500 towards a new car? Or 2500 to re-furb the old max? Already spent $$ on cattman exhaust and new rad support....and still under 115xxx so feeling like I should keep the car for more years. Maybe that's stupid idk.....I'm sure all you veterans have dealt w the same dilemma. Anyway sorry not trying to derail thread. Looking forward to your advice thx.
Originally Posted by CRBWS6
My input would be to spend it ONLY if you LOVE the car and plan to keep it. I have done most of the items on your list in the past few years (staged as suggested above). I plan to keep this car for many years as it is a great commuter (125k now). By doing what you propose, you are on the way toward another 115k.
It's a tough decision. But I definitely don't think it's necessary to replace every part on the list. A great renovation can be done for less than $1k.
Hey I'm newly signed up to the Org been lurking for long enough love it here btw I have a suspension question and I would appreciate any insight because it is making my ride sound like a bucket!!
The sound is heard whenever an uneven surface is driven on and it sounds like a creaking/ rattling from the Rear Right.
Local Nissan dealer doesn't want to sink the time into diagnosing the issue is the gist they tried to feed me so I'm in need of some tips.
I am going to try to record the horrid sound and post on YouTube til then I thank all advice in advance.
Great work I hope you are still in business when I'm ready to do a BBC upgrade. I was planning on doing the 6th gen hardware for my 03 but this would be even better. Am I right? Feel free to school me haha
Last edited by L0vnthatbuddah; 10-30-2015 at 07:53 PM.
Reason: wrong thread
I was replacing my front brakes over the weekend and noticed my outer tie end rods need to be replaced. I was inspecting other components and had a question about the ball joint in the LCA. Notice the folding over of the rubber. Is this normal or is this a bad sign? Both sides are like this.
Hi Dj, how do I know which 20mm spacers from H&R to buy for my rears? On their website, there are four different options listed. If the difference on two of them is just color, which # is the "right" one? 4065662? or 3?
Hi Dj, how do I know which 20mm spacers from H&R to buy for my rears? On their website, there are four different options listed. If the difference on two of them is just color, which # is the "right" one? 4065662? or 3?
With the DRS, you have to replace your wheel studs with longer ones, which should be provided with the H&R spacers. The DRM are a direct bolt on, and your wheels bolt up directly to the spacer. The difference between the black and the non-black, is simply just the color. I would recommend the DRM, because they are a simple bolt on (that is what I have). You can buy them from STILLEN, here's a link: https://www.stillen.com/search/?q=HR4065663SW
Yeah, I understand where you're coming from. I was a bit nervous, just in general, about any spacer. However, I've had my 20mm DRM spacers on for a little over three months now and haven't had any problems. And that's with driving 50 miles round trip to and from school with about 30 or so of those miles being highway miles.
Though I'm a purist, so I replace the studs. Not a fan of a double bolted situation.
The tradeoff of course is convenience and ease of removal.
Dj, I remember reading a thread about someone installing rear spacers w the longer DRS type studs (although I can't find it now), and that you needed to cut out or remove part of the wheel hub (or whatever the part is called behind the studs) in order to get the longer studs to fit. It looked like a real pain, the guy said something about having to whack it over n over again w a hammer to make a dent in the metal big enough to accommodate the stud.
I'd prefer going w the longer DRS type. Will I have the same installation issue?
Dj, I remember reading a thread about someone installing rear spacers w the longer DRS type studs (although I can't find it now), and that you needed to cut out or remove part of the wheel hub (or whatever the part is called behind the studs) in order to get the longer studs to fit. It looked like a real pain, the guy said something about having to whack it over n over again w a hammer to make a dent in the metal big enough to accommodate the stud.
I'd prefer going w the longer DRS type. Will I have the same installation issue?
I just installed the drs type. all you have to do is bend a very small section of sheet metal about the size of the stud head. also, if you are ocd you can even bend it back after you have installed the studs.
You are referring to the dustshield. I wouldn't even consider this an issue, or worry about it. A very simple workaround which should be expected when installing non-OEM spec'd parts.
Ok guys, if anyone has been following this thread, you will know that I swear by OEM dustboots, and OEM Dustboots only, when working on our Maxima suspension.
- The KYB material is a terrible foam that is impossible to cut, and the opening is just slightly too small for smooth usage with the strut piston
- Moog is no different.
WELL, in doing some research I think I have finally found a product that is suitable for dustboots!
I've ordered and just received a set, and initial thoughts are VERY positive. They practically look OEM - exact same shape, size, and material. Cost is VERY fair as well - about $10-$12 each, about $45 for all 4, shipped to me.
Ok guys, if anyone has been following this thread, you will know that I swear by OEM dustboots, and OEM Dustboots only, when working on our Maxima suspension.
- The KYB material is a terrible foam that is impossible to cut, and the opening is just slightly too small for smooth usage with the strut piston
- Moog is no different.
WELL, in doing some research I think I have finally found a product that is suitable for dustboots!
I've ordered and just received a set, and initial thoughts are VERY positive. They practically look OEM - exact same shape, size, and material. Cost is VERY fair as well - about $10-$12 each, about $45 for all 4, shipped to me.
Question about outer tie end rod torquing. I replaced mine over the weekend and initially thought the castle nut should be torqued to 55ft-lbs. I torqued the passenger side to that amount and realized it was way too much since the castle nut was way above the cotter pin hole. I removed the nut, pulled the tie rod out, reset the rubber boot, and then re-torqued to 25ft-lbs. The castle nut was still above the hole but I left it as is. The driver's side was initially torqued to 25ft-lbs and the nut/cotter pin hole line up perfect.
Should I back the passenger side castle nut off until it lines up right with the hole or leave it as is?
Question about outer tie end rod torquing. I replaced mine over the weekend and initially thought the castle nut should be torqued to 55ft-lbs. I torqued the passenger side to that amount and realized it was way too much since the castle nut was way above the cotter pin hole. I removed the nut, pulled the tie rod out, reset the rubber boot, and then re-torqued to 25ft-lbs. The castle nut was still above the hole but I left it as is. The driver's side was initially torqued to 25ft-lbs and the nut/cotter pin hole line up perfect.
Should I back the passenger side castle nut off until it lines up right with the hole or leave it as is?
You're overthinking this. Sometimes the hole is drilled low. Sometimes it's high. Torque it till you feel comfortable and put the cotter pin in. Ideally yes the cotter pin fits within the grooves of the castle nut. But this is not always the case. It's there as a secondary safety measure.
Hi Dj. The rubber sleeve that fits over the bottom part of the spring. I've read that you suggest simply flipping it over to re-use. Mine look pretty shot however (probably a big reason for all the creaking & groaning going on) so I'd like to buy new ones. A few more bucks isn't a big deal to me considering what I'm spending already, and I don't trust 15 yr-old rubber to last long and would not want it to crack/rip again.
When I go to check out, the part shows as 54034-31U20. If you search for that part # on other websites (which I was doing to price check), it shows as a thicker and different piece that doesn't look like the rubber sleeve that goes on the bottom of the spring. Any idea?
Ok guys, if anyone has been following this thread, you will know that I swear by OEM dustboots, and OEM Dustboots only, when working on our Maxima suspension.
- The KYB material is a terrible foam that is impossible to cut, and the opening is just slightly too small for smooth usage with the strut piston
- Moog is no different.
WELL, in doing some research I think I have finally found a product that is suitable for dustboots!
I've ordered and just received a set, and initial thoughts are VERY positive. They practically look OEM - exact same shape, size, and material. Cost is VERY fair as well - about $10-$12 each, about $45 for all 4, shipped to me.
I plan to install them this weekend. Will post pics and reviews up!
FOLLOW UP to this. Sorry it took so long to close this out.
I'm VERY happy with the quality, fitment, and sizing/specs of the Febest dustboots. They're about half the price as OEM, and they look IDENTICAL to OEM. I highly recommend them as a suitable alternative to the OEM dustboots.
FOLLOW UP to this. Sorry it took so long to close this out.
I'm VERY happy with the quality, fitment, and sizing/specs of the Febest dustboots. They're about half the price as OEM, and they look IDENTICAL to OEM. I highly recommend them as a suitable alternative to the OEM dustboots.
Pics:
Front:
Rear:
Hotness!! What are the part numbers? The link is very vague for which ones to get.
08-20-2015, 09:08 AM
Which tools has anyone used to access this nut effectively?
...oh well you live and learn, thanks for the info, much appreciated!
, I will leave it as is then. I am interested in the results of your new dust boot findings!
