This might be easier than all the random threads out there.

Ask me a question about:

1. Recommended parts
2. Installation techniques
3. Installation problems/questions
4. Noise or behavior diagnosis
5. Anything else suspension related

I'll do my best to answer them in a fairly timely fashion.

Other knowledgeable members, please feel free to join in, all opinions are welcome.

Let the games begin

 

IT's about time you did one of these!

 

And YOU sir, I am very happy to have you on board with this thread - you also have been helping tremendously!

 

Awesome idea, hope it takes off, sticky material! you have more patience than I for some of the questions though

 

DJ, if you're looking for ideas here, you could build a running list of FAQ's into your first post, and link the answers into subsequent posts throughout the thread.

For everyone else... if you're been reading or participating in the 5th Gen forum for a while, you've likely seen a number of entries by djfrestyl regarding suspension considerations on the 5th gen Maxima. He's been consistently spot-on and helpful in his advice. Having met him in person a few weeks ago, I was similarly impressed with his character. He's a genuinely nice guy.

If you're in driving distance of his location, you should look him up for your suspension install.

 

Was thinking about this, and will likely implement it, once I get some free time

Appreciate your kind words, and I agree, I'd love to generate some local install business.

OR...some spare tire cover sales

 

Can I ask you about my 4th gen? I haz a serious issuez.

 

I've changed my suspension setup last fall:

- Eibach pro kit
- GR2 struts
- MOOG strut mounts
- MOOG strut boots

Now sometimes, when I turn the wheel all the way to the right, there's a noise coming from the passenger side, I want to say from the top of the strut.

If I had to describe the noise, it sounds like a very old and heavy door slowly swinging open, and the hinges badly need to be greased up. Not that prolonged high pitch noise you'd get from a door in horror movies when a ghost is entering the room at night, but rather that repeated clunking sort of noise.

It makes about three, four popping sounds, just before I get to the bump stop when I turn all the way to the right.

What could it be?

 

^ Sounds like a binding spring? Are you sure the Eibachs are seated well on that side?

 

Almost like a groan, right?

1. Make sure the upper plate "OUT" is indeed facing out.

2. Could be a binding spring. Have someone turn the wheel while you feel around up in the strut area. Make sure the car is on the ground, not on stands, you want to replicate while the suspension is loaded.

3. If it's not the spring it's most likely the strut bearing.

Just because you replaced with Moog doesn't mean the part wasn't defective, or went defective.

In fact, I JUST replaced a defective Moog strut bearing that was new - 2 weekends ago.

 

Well, we all know you have issues despite your car

Sure man, no problem. The suspension is nearly the same anyway. I just HATE 4th gen strut mounts.

 

I had the same sounds too. Djfrestyl and I were able to get it resolved. Most of the noise from from the metal spring rubbing against the perch, the isolator had rubbed through i one spot (which is why i recommend getting new isolators when doing a strut/spring job). I also put a little grease on the strut bearing. No more noises now!

 

OR, save a few bucks and just flip the isolator over - that's what I generally do when reusing OEM springs. Aftermarket springs usually come with their own isolators.

It would be pretty cool if I could find a thick plastic tubing that shrank a bit with heat - to make DIY isolators.

 

lol

Well, I know it has nothing to do with the strut mounts I'm thinking maybe an axle. Here's the issue:

When I turn the steering wheel to the right, I can hear it click on the driverside and physically see that wheel "pop" out. Also, after a right turn or sometimes while driving straight, it shakes like a **** as if it's just gonna snap.

It's more of a one click and wheel "pop" out sort of deal. It doesn't pop out completely, just the upper half of the wheel sort of pokes out a decent amount. I can take a video if you'd like.

 

Seems like it's the axle. Maybe's the nut is loose? Perhaps a hub or bearing that's toast? Post the vid.

 

I've heard a mixed bag reviews about the MOOG mounts, I'd just stay away from them and stick with OEM, the cost savings aren't THAT great. Especially if you're paying someone for labour. Just my $0.02, you've got much more experience than I with them.

Heater hose that's the proper size won't move. A little silicone prior to application will help too, but the key is grease IMO, if it's dry, it's going to grab/move or cause noises, just less so with an isolator.

Or You can buy GM Isolators mad cheap from the dealer too just need the right diameter. I used GM ones on my Tein's and they worked awesome, very robust, not chinsy like the Jap/aftermarket ones tend to be.


Sounds like a bad ball joint or tie rod if you're actually seeing the movement blatantly

 

Hey dj, I bought my 03 max gle with DropZone lowering springs already on the car which I believe is a 2 inch drop in the front not sure about the back. The struts are stock.

The car bottoms out really bad and hard when hitting any small rough patches in the road or any minor pot holes. I've been in plenty of lowered cars and none of them feel or sound nearly as bad as mine. I brought it to my mechanic just to make sure there were no major issues and he said the only things he saw were that one of my springs is upside down and my strut boots are completely torn apart.

What do you suggest I do/buy in my case? I know it will never be a smooth ride because its lowered and what not, but how could I make it atleast a little easier on the car and make it not sound like its losing the front end from hitting minor imperfections in the road? Would appreciate the help/suggestions.

 

Hey man, great discussion! Thanks for the input!

I've installed hundreds, maybe had about 3 returns, and all were because of the bearing, not mount.

I like them because the bearing is included.

Interesting. I have never greased a single isolator, or upper/lower spring coil.

Good point! Very well could be!

 

The poor ride quality is likely because your struts are stock, and OEM struts are no good for that aggressive of a drop.

If you like the ride height, keep the springs. Get some Illuminas, new OEM boots, and new mounts.

And then, COME TO ME FOR THE INSTALL! Shoot me a PM.

 

PMed...thanks

 

I didn't know you could buy the front mounts without the bearing, I was under the impression the mount/bearing were one and the same assembly? obviously the rear is just the rubber/abs mount.

dj will help you out you're in good hands. But this specific statement isn't true, if you're willing to pay for Coilovers.

 

I'm thinking.. Maybe the axle is popping out of the trans? I've had bad tie rods on my other 4th gen and never had this viscous shaking. It gets violent.

Aren't clunks normally associated with bad ball joints? There's no clunk, not even a small one.

I'll have a vid up in a few hours.

 

Dj heres a little tip also.when i put the BC's on the 5th gen i was getting a little bit of metal2metal sound and some groan so after playing around for a while with mixed results i went searching for some bearing type materal to put between the mounts and car body what i did was goto the local craft store and pick up 2 of those cheap martha stewart make yourself cutting boards that were 5/32" thick and made a isolator to go between the alum mount and body well the sound went away and stayed away it only cost me $5 too.

 

Ahh ok, im just going by all the lowered cars that I have been in, I dont know much about struts/coilovers and suspension in general to be honest. I never really followed any of the threads about it cause I was satisfied with the height and such when I bought the car, now its time to change it up.

 

You can have a bad ball joint and no noise at all. Need to check the play at 12 and 6 in the air, you're supposed to jack it up, rest the frame on jack stands, and then take the weight off the control arm/ball joint by lifting up on the control arm with your jack just until the tension is off. Then rock it and check where the play is. This is the only way you're going to know for sure.

Suspension is hard sometimes because symptoms can not even exist when there's a problem, or they can be insane even though the issue is very minor (loud clunking only due to a broken/worn sway bar link for example).

By the time your tie rod gets this bad it's been toast for a WHILE:



You can also check tie rods with adjustable pliers on the bottom and top of the tie rod and mount. Squeeze and if the tie rod moves up and down in it's socket, it's toast. It's allowed to sway/turn, but can't move up and down. This is how to catch them before they destroy the knuckle.



Your axel popping in and out, etc could cause a shudder or tension on the turning of the wheel but wouldn't physically cause the center of the wheel to move in and out. If that makes sense?

Suspension pros/cons to different types and CO's vs. spring/strut isn't really what this thread is for If I'm reading right, but lucky for you, the .ORG is FULL of these threads. Your eyes will bleed for days trying to absorb all the information there is.

 

Strut mount and strut bearing are two different parts. With OEM replacements, you buy them separately under separate part numbers.

With aftermarket - both Moog and KYB, when you buy the mounts, the bearing is included in the box.

 

Good tip

 

I'm sure it will be touched upon in this thread. But this decision is up to the individual to make. All we can do is provide the facts for them to decide what's best for them.

Or, if they offer their preferences, we can make the decision in their best interest.

 

Sounds like you need a 5.5 gen amigo

 

That makes sense. When I take the video, I'll turn the wheel with the car on the ground so y'all can see, then I'll jack it up and check for play at 12 and 6 and 9 and 3. At this point, I'm ruling out the tie rod completely. If its impossible for the wheel to pop out with a bad axle, then it's probably the ball joint.

 

Have one, amigo

 

lul

 

Lol!

Just spoke with guarj17 on the phone. The RIGHT parts are being ordered, and an install day will be locked and loaded the moment the parts arrive.

THAT's how it's done.

 

It's crazy that you began this thread today. Last night, after reading your response to someone about boots/bump stops, I thought to myself, "djfrestyle needs to start his own suspension Sticky." Awesome! You're a wealth of information. I agree with Rochester. A FAQ could help so that this thread won't go into the hundreds of pages because some people choose not to read before posting. Concise.

 

DJ, you also need to link to your FS thread on that spare tire cover you're selling.

merovi needs to buy one of those, BTW. Go say "hi".

 

Lol, great minds think alike. You're also pretty good with your info.
I will start compiling the FAQ.

The link is in my signature
PM sent!

 

Yes thank you for that dj.

For the others, to go along with what Rochester said, dj knows what he is talking about AND he knows good sites and such to get the parts you need. (and knows part numbers off the top of his head ) impressive.

I'm confident the drive to Jersey will be well worth it.

 

Lol yea, I have part numbers memorized. Side effect of my day job working with data/numbers all day.

BTW guarj17, when we do your install, save a few bucks for a spare tire cover. Just let me know if you prefer carpet or non-carpet.

 

As promised:


Me thinks it's the ball joint.. The outer CV boot is starting to tear as well..

 

Good info, thanks!

A tip: Never rule anything out until you properly diagnose it. A tie rod could easily be your problem.