No Spark No Start!! Help Appreciated
#1
No Spark No Start!! Help Appreciated
I have a 02 Max GLE, auto tranny no mods about 150,000 on the dash. Recently I drove the car parked it overnight tried starting the next morning, cranks all day but refuses to start. Checked the fuel pump no issues there, changed crankshaft and both cam sensors to no avail. I have no spark, at this point I'm clueless on what else to check. I have a check engine light which stayed on before this happened because of a straight pipe I got due to a clogged cat. Being that the car doesn't start and is parked in my driveway I cant drive to advance or auto zone to get it scanned. I had a mobile mechanic check it out which was a waste of time and money because all he did was tell me what I already knew which was I have no spark. He scanned the car and said a code came up for the crankshaft sensor, which I then changed to no avail. I didn't actually see the code who knows maybe there wasn't one he probably lied. The last day I drove the car it was misfiring I assumed due to a broken coil I had in bank 2, which I also changed to no avail. I know there are other no start threads which I've read thru, they all pretty much say the same change cam or crankshaft sensor. I haven't seen one where both were already changed and the problem persist. I have another 02 Max GLE. I don't wanna waste anymore cash so any parts you guys suggest, I would take it from the working Max install in the no start Max to make sure it works before I buy it. Any help or advice would be much appreciated! Thank you in advance!
#3
Just to be safe, I would pull a spark plug and verify it’s firing when you crank the engine. If it's indeed not firing:
- Is the red security light ON? If so, NATs is preventing your car from starting. You have a problem with your key; try a spare key, if you have one.
- Check the fuses; #58 in the fuse box by the battery is one possibility, but check them all.
- The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) provides the ECU with feedback about engine speed and position. If the ECU does not get a signal from the REF crankshaft sensor within a few seconds of starting, it shuts the fuel pump off. You said you changed it; did you use OEM or aftermarket part? Also, did you check the wiring and connectors?
- Does your car start when you give it a lot of gas? If so, the problem is your IACV.
#5
It does not need the crank sensor to run. Unplug it and see if you can start it (will crank for a while).
A totally shot crank sensor might be able to keep it from running, though (and have seen it cause misfires when it does run).
Or...just start swapping pieces over one at a time from the good maxi haha
A totally shot crank sensor might be able to keep it from running, though (and have seen it cause misfires when it does run).
Or...just start swapping pieces over one at a time from the good maxi haha
#7
#8
Just to be safe, I would pull a spark plug and verify it’s firing when you crank the engine. If it's indeed not firing:
- Is the red security light ON? If so, NATs is preventing your car from starting. You have a problem with your key; try a spare key, if you have one.
- Check the fuses; #58 in the fuse box by the battery is one possibility, but check them all.
- The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) provides the ECU with feedback about engine speed and position. If the ECU does not get a signal from the REF crankshaft sensor within a few seconds of starting, it shuts the fuel pump off. You said you changed it; did you use OEM or aftermarket part? Also, did you check the wiring and connectors?
- Does your car start when you give it a lot of gas? If so, the problem is your IACV.
#9
[QUOTE=Child_uv_KoRn;9032486]It does not need the crank sensor to run. Unplug it and see if you can start it (will crank for a while).
A totally shot crank sensor might be able to keep it from running, though (and have seen it cause misfires when it does run).
Or...just start swapping pieces over one at a time from the good maxi haha[/QUOTE
unplugging crank sensor, still wont start, I just might have to keep swapping pieces but I'm afraid I might pull something from the good Max and make it stop working lol
A totally shot crank sensor might be able to keep it from running, though (and have seen it cause misfires when it does run).
Or...just start swapping pieces over one at a time from the good maxi haha[/QUOTE
unplugging crank sensor, still wont start, I just might have to keep swapping pieces but I'm afraid I might pull something from the good Max and make it stop working lol
#10
Every coil has a red and a black wire in the connector. The red wire is 12 volts (when the ignition switch is in the ON position) and the black wire is ground. Remove a connector and check for 12 volts between the red and black wires.
As for the immobilizer theory, I'm pretty sure that NATS turns off the fuel injectors, not the spark.
As for the immobilizer theory, I'm pretty sure that NATS turns off the fuel injectors, not the spark.
#11
Every coil has a red and a black wire in the connector. The red wire is 12 volts (when the ignition switch is in the ON position) and the black wire is ground. Remove a connector and check for 12 volts between the red and black wires.
As for the immobilizer theory, I'm pretty sure that NATS turns off the fuel injectors, not the spark.
As for the immobilizer theory, I'm pretty sure that NATS turns off the fuel injectors, not the spark.
#12
Here is your problem. The NATS subsystem (Nissan Immobilizer) does not recognize your keys, and the ECU does not fire the fuel injectors in order to prevent the engine from starting. You'll have to have your keys re-programmed at the dealer. At least now, you know what your problem is.
#13
The nats has just kicked on,that means no spark and no fuel for the car,it's in lock mode the key and the nats are gonna have to be reprogrammed. The whole nats need to checked out first. The car should work again depending on it's first problem prior to this status. The missfire and all should be detected when the car is up and running. The misfires just check the codes and check the coils volts and plugs for the proper firing.
#14
You'll have to have your keys re-programmed at the dealer. At least now, you know what your problem is.
I called the dealer to see how much it would be to reprogram the key, they game me a price of $129. The only problem is they said the car would have to be there. Which means I would have to go through the hassle of towing the car there. I was checking online I seen mobile key makers that claim they can reprogram keys at a cheaper price. I was wondering was there a difference in what they do or is it best to go to Nissan? I appreciate your help btw
I called the dealer to see how much it would be to reprogram the key, they game me a price of $129. The only problem is they said the car would have to be there. Which means I would have to go through the hassle of towing the car there. I was checking online I seen mobile key makers that claim they can reprogram keys at a cheaper price. I was wondering was there a difference in what they do or is it best to go to Nissan? I appreciate your help btw
Last edited by courtneyjr; 03-21-2015 at 08:56 PM.
#15
The nats has just kicked on,that means no spark and no fuel for the car,it's in lock mode the key and the nats are gonna have to be reprogrammed.
So not only does the key needs to be reprogrammed but also the security system?
So not only does the key needs to be reprogrammed but also the security system?
#17
I called the dealer to see how much it would be to reprogram the key, they game me a price of $129. The only problem is they said the car would have to be there. Which means I would have to go through the hassle of towing the car there. I was checking online I seen mobile key makers that claim they can reprogram keys at a cheaper price. I was wondering was there a difference in what they do or is it best to go to Nissan? I appreciate your help btw
#18
While $120+ might not be rape at the dealer.... for less money you can get nds2 and a usb cord to do it yourself https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ey-reprog.html
#19
I never asked if they can fix the car I figured if I did they were gonna throw a ridiculous diagnostic fee so I just asked about the key specifically
#20
While $120+ might not be rape at the dealer.... for less money you can get nds2 and a usb cord to do it yourself https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ey-reprog.html
#21
So I just watched this video on YouTube
Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
#22
So I just watched this video on YouTube
Transponder Chip Key Bypass How To For Any Car! - YouTube
Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
Transponder Chip Key Bypass How To For Any Car! - YouTube
Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
#23
So I just watched this video on YouTube
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4v8l75kP_w
Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4v8l75kP_w
Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
#25
Finally figured out the problem about a week ago. Turns out it was the immobilizer. Mechanic charged $60 for diagnostic, even tho I pin pointed the issue was somewhere along the lines of the security system so I pretty much told him what the problem was. The part was $170 brand new from the dealer, he was able to get me a new one for $140. Seen used ones on eBay for as low as $40 but I was in a rush to get the car fixed. Then an additional $100 to reprogram the new immobilizer to the keys and ecu. A total of $300 I know it sucks! Anyway just wanted to post this in case anyone else might have future problems. I'll attach a few pics of the old immobilizer. In case they'res anyone that doesn't know, the immobilizer goes around the key cylinder where you insert the key to start the car. Just remove the cover under the steering wheel to get to it. There's an antenna, the round piece that reads the chip in your key. If the antenna go bad it wont read the chip causing your car to crank but wont start.
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trungg86
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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09-04-2015 04:58 AM