5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

No Spark No Start!! Help Appreciated

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-21-2015, 08:11 AM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
No Spark No Start!! Help Appreciated

I have a 02 Max GLE, auto tranny no mods about 150,000 on the dash. Recently I drove the car parked it overnight tried starting the next morning, cranks all day but refuses to start. Checked the fuel pump no issues there, changed crankshaft and both cam sensors to no avail. I have no spark, at this point I'm clueless on what else to check. I have a check engine light which stayed on before this happened because of a straight pipe I got due to a clogged cat. Being that the car doesn't start and is parked in my driveway I cant drive to advance or auto zone to get it scanned. I had a mobile mechanic check it out which was a waste of time and money because all he did was tell me what I already knew which was I have no spark. He scanned the car and said a code came up for the crankshaft sensor, which I then changed to no avail. I didn't actually see the code who knows maybe there wasn't one he probably lied. The last day I drove the car it was misfiring I assumed due to a broken coil I had in bank 2, which I also changed to no avail. I know there are other no start threads which I've read thru, they all pretty much say the same change cam or crankshaft sensor. I haven't seen one where both were already changed and the problem persist. I have another 02 Max GLE. I don't wanna waste anymore cash so any parts you guys suggest, I would take it from the working Max install in the no start Max to make sure it works before I buy it. Any help or advice would be much appreciated! Thank you in advance!
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 08:54 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
 
ac max 92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ont. Canada
Posts: 1,713
Have you checked battery and ground connections aswell as fuses? And does the battery have a good charge?
ac max 92 is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 08:58 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
maxiiiboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Just to be safe, I would pull a spark plug and verify it’s firing when you crank the engine. If it's indeed not firing:
  • Is the red security light ON? If so, NATs is preventing your car from starting. You have a problem with your key; try a spare key, if you have one.
  • Check the fuses; #58 in the fuse box by the battery is one possibility, but check them all.
  • The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) provides the ECU with feedback about engine speed and position. If the ECU does not get a signal from the REF crankshaft sensor within a few seconds of starting, it shuts the fuel pump off. You said you changed it; did you use OEM or aftermarket part? Also, did you check the wiring and connectors?
  • Does your car start when you give it a lot of gas? If so, the problem is your IACV.
Good luck.
maxiiiboy is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 09:06 AM
  #4  
Member
 
Mateen995's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 224
5.5 Maxima's don't have a IACV ^
Mateen995 is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 09:06 AM
  #5  
Bad *** Newb
iTrader: (7)
 
Child_uv_KoRn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,943
It does not need the crank sensor to run. Unplug it and see if you can start it (will crank for a while).

A totally shot crank sensor might be able to keep it from running, though (and have seen it cause misfires when it does run).

Or...just start swapping pieces over one at a time from the good maxi haha
Child_uv_KoRn is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 09:09 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
maxiiiboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Originally Posted by Mateen995
5.5 Maxima's don't have a IACV ^
Good point, I was thinking of my car ....
maxiiiboy is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 09:13 AM
  #7  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
Originally Posted by ac max 92
Have you checked battery and ground connections aswell as fuses? And does the battery have a good charge?

Yes battery is full charged, I've tested all fusees, as for ground connections not sure
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 09:40 AM
  #8  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
Just to be safe, I would pull a spark plug and verify it’s firing when you crank the engine. If it's indeed not firing:
  • Is the red security light ON? If so, NATs is preventing your car from starting. You have a problem with your key; try a spare key, if you have one.
  • Check the fuses; #58 in the fuse box by the battery is one possibility, but check them all.
  • The Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) provides the ECU with feedback about engine speed and position. If the ECU does not get a signal from the REF crankshaft sensor within a few seconds of starting, it shuts the fuel pump off. You said you changed it; did you use OEM or aftermarket part? Also, did you check the wiring and connectors?
  • Does your car start when you give it a lot of gas? If so, the problem is your IACV.
Good luck.
I've pulled a spark plug while someone else cranked the engine that's how I verified I have no spark. Checked all fuses battery is fully charged, unfortunately I only have 1 key I bought the car from Manheim auction about a year ago. The new sensors are OEM I heard too many stories about off the market sensors. I know for a fact the old sensors still work I have another Max same year and model. I put the old sensors in and sure enough it started so I didn't have to change the cams and crank to begin with. As for the security light I just went outside and checked, when you turn the key the security light comes on and stays on.
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 09:43 AM
  #9  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
[QUOTE=Child_uv_KoRn;9032486]It does not need the crank sensor to run. Unplug it and see if you can start it (will crank for a while).

A totally shot crank sensor might be able to keep it from running, though (and have seen it cause misfires when it does run).

Or...just start swapping pieces over one at a time from the good maxi haha[/QUOTE

unplugging crank sensor, still wont start, I just might have to keep swapping pieces but I'm afraid I might pull something from the good Max and make it stop working lol
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 11:40 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
DennisMik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 10,649
Every coil has a red and a black wire in the connector. The red wire is 12 volts (when the ignition switch is in the ON position) and the black wire is ground. Remove a connector and check for 12 volts between the red and black wires.

As for the immobilizer theory, I'm pretty sure that NATS turns off the fuel injectors, not the spark.
DennisMik is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 12:06 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
Originally Posted by DennisMik
Every coil has a red and a black wire in the connector. The red wire is 12 volts (when the ignition switch is in the ON position) and the black wire is ground. Remove a connector and check for 12 volts between the red and black wires.

As for the immobilizer theory, I'm pretty sure that NATS turns off the fuel injectors, not the spark.
I'll definitely check this out also
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 05:39 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
maxiiiboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Originally Posted by courtneyjr
...... As for the security light I just went outside and checked, when you turn the key the security light comes on and stays on.
Here is your problem. The NATS subsystem (Nissan Immobilizer) does not recognize your keys, and the ECU does not fire the fuel injectors in order to prevent the engine from starting. You'll have to have your keys re-programmed at the dealer. At least now, you know what your problem is.
maxiiiboy is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 07:04 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
vqmaxman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
The nats has just kicked on,that means no spark and no fuel for the car,it's in lock mode the key and the nats are gonna have to be reprogrammed. The whole nats need to checked out first. The car should work again depending on it's first problem prior to this status. The missfire and all should be detected when the car is up and running. The misfires just check the codes and check the coils volts and plugs for the proper firing.
vqmaxman is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 08:52 PM
  #14  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
You'll have to have your keys re-programmed at the dealer. At least now, you know what your problem is.

I called the dealer to see how much it would be to reprogram the key, they game me a price of $129. The only problem is they said the car would have to be there. Which means I would have to go through the hassle of towing the car there. I was checking online I seen mobile key makers that claim they can reprogram keys at a cheaper price. I was wondering was there a difference in what they do or is it best to go to Nissan? I appreciate your help btw

Last edited by courtneyjr; 03-21-2015 at 08:56 PM.
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 08:55 PM
  #15  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
The nats has just kicked on,that means no spark and no fuel for the car,it's in lock mode the key and the nats are gonna have to be reprogrammed.

So not only does the key needs to be reprogrammed but also the security system?
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 08:56 PM
  #16  
Bad *** Newb
iTrader: (7)
 
Child_uv_KoRn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,943
If it ends up being NATS, never pay those retards at the dealership a full hour of labor for 5 mins of work. You can pay for half hour.
Child_uv_KoRn is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 09:40 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
maxiiiboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: California
Posts: 1,445
Originally Posted by courtneyjr
I called the dealer to see how much it would be to reprogram the key, they game me a price of $129. The only problem is they said the car would have to be there. Which means I would have to go through the hassle of towing the car there. I was checking online I seen mobile key makers that claim they can reprogram keys at a cheaper price. I was wondering was there a difference in what they do or is it best to go to Nissan? I appreciate your help btw
$129 is not a bad price. Re. a locksmith or mobile key maker: I understand that many can do this job; did you ask them if they can fix your car?
maxiiiboy is offline  
Old 03-21-2015, 10:29 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
 
nestorlugo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,584
While $120+ might not be rape at the dealer.... for less money you can get nds2 and a usb cord to do it yourself https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ey-reprog.html
nestorlugo is offline  
Old 03-22-2015, 10:01 AM
  #19  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
$129 is not a bad price. Re. a locksmith or mobile key maker: I understand that many can do this job; did you ask them if they can fix your car?
I never asked if they can fix the car I figured if I did they were gonna throw a ridiculous diagnostic fee so I just asked about the key specifically
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-22-2015, 10:25 AM
  #20  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
Originally Posted by nestorlugo
While $120+ might not be rape at the dealer.... for less money you can get nds2 and a usb cord to do it yourself https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ey-reprog.html
Thanks man I never knew this could be done by a average joe
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-22-2015, 11:12 AM
  #21  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
So I just watched this video on YouTube

Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
courtneyjr is offline  
Old 03-22-2015, 11:19 AM
  #22  
Bad *** Newb
iTrader: (7)
 
Child_uv_KoRn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,943
Originally Posted by courtneyjr
So I just watched this video on YouTube
Transponder Chip Key Bypass How To For Any Car! - YouTube

Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
Sounds legitimate.
Child_uv_KoRn is offline  
Old 03-22-2015, 01:55 PM
  #23  
Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
 
nestorlugo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,584
Originally Posted by courtneyjr
So I just watched this video on YouTube
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4v8l75kP_w

Dude said it's not good to have 2 keys with a transponder chip in the proximity of the key ring because it a confuse the computer. As I stated before I have another maxima same year and model. I recently went to a locksmith and got a copy of that key, added that key to my key ring of the maxima that now will not start. I wonder if this as something to do with my problem
nestorlugo is offline  
Old 03-23-2015, 05:33 PM
  #24  
Senior Member
 
vqmaxman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
all the aftermarkets still have to do the same process that the oem guys do.
vqmaxman is offline  
Old 04-17-2015, 01:48 PM
  #25  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
courtneyjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 33
Finally figured out the problem about a week ago. Turns out it was the immobilizer. Mechanic charged $60 for diagnostic, even tho I pin pointed the issue was somewhere along the lines of the security system so I pretty much told him what the problem was. The part was $170 brand new from the dealer, he was able to get me a new one for $140. Seen used ones on eBay for as low as $40 but I was in a rush to get the car fixed. Then an additional $100 to reprogram the new immobilizer to the keys and ecu. A total of $300 I know it sucks! Anyway just wanted to post this in case anyone else might have future problems. I'll attach a few pics of the old immobilizer. In case they'res anyone that doesn't know, the immobilizer goes around the key cylinder where you insert the key to start the car. Just remove the cover under the steering wheel to get to it. There's an antenna, the round piece that reads the chip in your key. If the antenna go bad it wont read the chip causing your car to crank but wont start.
courtneyjr is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mvm062
Infiniti I30/I35
3
11-30-2020 09:00 AM
TheMafia
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
09-04-2015 08:26 AM
trungg86
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
09-04-2015 04:58 AM
meccanj98
8th Generation Maxima (2016-)
0
09-03-2015 08:58 AM



Quick Reply: No Spark No Start!! Help Appreciated



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:59 AM.