blkmax1

Hey members I have a 01 with 198k, auto. At this mileage etc what things should I pay special attention to, to maintain reliability and good performance. I am the 3rd owner. Also did they come with the lsd trans. In the future I wanted to make it a 5spd. Lol. Thanks for any advice.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The struts probably need replacing along with the boots and the strut bearings.
The front sway bar end links and all the bushings.
Check the bushings that hold the power steering rack on.
Check the bushings on the lower control arms, especially if you have a leaking power steering hose.
The upper and lower rubber biscuits that hold the radiator in place.
Drain the transmission oil and replace. Only half the oil will drain out, but that's OK. DO NOT FLUSH.
Check all the hoses (vacuum, fuel, coolant) to see if they are becoming hard. If so, replace.
Check any rubber part you can find, like the muffler hangers, for dry rot and cracking.

It is highly unlikely that you have a LSD differential. Canadian cars would and some U.S. cars sold along the Canadian border. If the car has auto transmission model RE4F04B, it is not LSD. Model RE4F04V is LSD.

Converting to manual trans is a big job and it is getting hard to find a donor car for all the parts. I wish you luck.

blkmax1

Ok thanks. Is it harder than doing a 4th gen? What about if it doesn't have lsd, can I get a trans out of an I30?

TSelanne

iTrader: (2)

Not sure about that. I thought the AE models all came with LSD as a standard feature. Not all '01's, but the AE's did. I'm not positive on that, but I say it because because I have one and mine is LSD and I'm in the US.

Blkmax1 - re: maintenance; search bud. Search. It's out there. Just takes some time.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

All AEs are LSD afaik..otherwise they would be just another 2001 with some plastic glued on
This is why the driver's CV is different.

AT978

Question, actually one that I've had for a while,

What's the difference between an open diff and a limited slip. I have an ae as well. I was under the impression that I had a limited slip but when I turn the right wheel clockwise, the left goes counter clockwise.... which indicates an open diff? Someone with more knowledge explain please

blkmax1

Ok thanks guys... I'm planning on doing some mods also. If I can find the right parts I might just keep it an auto. I've seen jwt has alot of parts, upgrades etc. Is it worth it, IN the future I'm thinking cams, and possibly turbo or supercharged! I've always wanted an Ae (wishing it was a 5spd) or a 02-03 6 speed. Thanks again for the info

blkmax1

Update. Replaced starter and all it does is click still. I'm puzzlef. What other things should I look at

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Check the transaxle code on the firewall, unless it was changed but that's one place to start.



You never mentions you had tarting issues? Recheck your installation and of course batt POS & GND

blkmax1

Any ideas

blkmax1

Would the crank sensor make it just click when trying to start. I pulled it and there's no dip on it. What else can it be...

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

Have you had your battery tested?

blkmax1

Yes it's good

blkmax1

Changed crank sensors, cam sensor, battery is good. Used starter. Going to purchase brand new and see but I might take one off my 97 and see what happens to know for sure if it's the starter

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like the solenoid is dead is to me. You can jump the terminals on the starter and it should crank.

blkmax1

Brand new starter... still nothing!!! Wtf

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Can you narrow down what solenoid is clicking? Like is the relay clicking on only or is the solenoid on the starter clicking, too? Perhaps the inhibitor is bad.

blkmax1

Yes it sounds like the starter but I also feel it clicking when I have a friend fry to start... Where is the inhibitor located

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If it is the starter clicking (the solenoid), that is a fairly loud click. If it is the inhibitor relay, that is a pretty quiet click.

The inhibitor relay is under the hood, in front of the battery. The cover calls it INHIBIT. You can add a jumper wire in the relay socket that eliminates the relay. Jumper pin 6 to pin 7. If you look on the relay socket, there are tiny numbers marking the pins. Also on the bottom of the relay. DO NOT go by the diagram on the relay cover!

If you do this and drive the car, the cruise control will not work. To fix that, add a 2nd jumper in the inhibitor relay socket between pins 3 & 4.

blkmax1

Ok I will try this and see what happens... Can it be ecu related?

Can't I change the inhibitor relay

Still no luck.. New starter, new inhibitor relay, battery, cam and crank sensors. All fuses look fine!

Okay quick question, could the motor be seized up? I can turn it from the crank pulley. Ive seen a past thread about a motor being seized up and all you hear is the clicking....

Ok. What about the keyless entry relay. Im so puzzled to why im not getting it to crank at least...? Ive searched and did everything im pushing towards an electrical or ground issue

Ive continued to.search threads but nothing works... Im really thinking this motor is seized... i just seen tht you tube video. Ill add a video.soon

I also heard that the anti theft relay may have something to do with it, but i only see a keyless relay on the passenger side of the car..Has anyone else experience this issue... No Crank only a click from starter... Once again new starter, changed cam and front crank sensor, battery good, check and switched inhibitor relay. Any experienced help will be highly appreciated

Montego Murph

iTrader: (1)

I'd imagine with all the checking you've done, the grounds are all good.

Any idea how the engine may have seized?

blkmax1

Yes i cleaned the alternator ground, ground on trans, added a ground from trans to battery. Are there any other grounds i should look at

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If you can turn the engine by the crank pulley, the engine isn't seized. But it also depends on how much muscle you had to put into turning it by hand. I suppose it could be getting close to being seized.

The inhibitor relay is also called the park/neutral position relay. There is no other relay involved, forget about the keyless entry relay. If you put that jumper in that I mentioned earlier, that effectively eliminates the relay.

This click that you keep talking about - is it a loud clack coming from the starter? if so, all the electrical circuitry to make the car crank is working and you don't need to worry about relays.

And how many times have you replaced the starter? Just once? If so, it is bad - take it back and get another one. One thing you have to learn about rebuilt starters - just because the first 4 or 5 starters you put in don't start the engine, it doesn't mean that you have some other problem. You can still have a bad starter.

blkmax1

Understand but i took the same starter and put it on my 97 and it started right up

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Well since you have another Maxima, go turn the harmonic balancer by hand and compare the force required to your 2001.

blkmax1

I did that also... i recently put a motor in my other 97 5spd and it felt the same way when turning by hand... I cant understand what can be wrong... The previous owner said the starter went bad and the car has been sitting since Aug-Sept

blkmax1

Any other experience this issue

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Here's something to try. Remove the air filter box so that you have access to the starter. Get your voltmeter and referring to the photo below, connect the meter's positive lead to test point B. Be careful not to create a short. Connect the other lead to ground. When you connect the lead, the meter will not show any voltage. Watch the voltmeter and try to start the engine. When you turn the key to the start position, the voltmeter will show a voltage.

If you have a good, fully charged battery, the voltmeter will show around 11 volts. As a sanity check, connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the battery's positive terminal. Try starting the engine again. You should get the same voltage reading.

Below the photo is a link to another thread that is about diagnosing a no crank condition. Maybe there is some info in there that might help.



https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...rt-thread.html

blkmax1

Thanks for the advice but it seems like nothing is working! This is the first time ive encountered this issue and ive had maybe 7-8 Maxima's and a couple of I30's

blkmax1

Could it be a possible short in the wiring?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

What voltage did you get on test point B?

blkmax1

Voltage is good

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I asked what the voltage was. Good is not a voltage reading.

Since you can turn the engine over by the harmonic balancer and you say the force needed is the same as your other car, that says that the engine isn't locked up.

Having a "good" voltage at test point B indicates a problem with the starter. Out of curiosity, jumper tet point B and C. You will get kind of a big spark when you do this, but this will make the starter motor spin without cranking the engine.

But you also said that you put the 2001 starter in a 97 and the 97 started, it sort of seems like the starter is good. Did you try the 97 starter in the 2001? It would be interesting to see what happens.

Assuming the 2001 starter is OK (but try the 97 starter anyway), I can only think of 2 things that might be wrong. 1) the starter does not have a good enough ground or 2) the starter is not getting mounted correctly and is sitting on an angle and not able to engage properly.

blkmax1

Ok. I will.tell you exactly what reading i got tomorrow... I.appreciate the time to help!

blkmax1

No luck

blkmax1

Ok members. I still cant get it to crank! Im thinking about changing the ignition switch and see if i missed any grounds! Im surprised no one else has had these problems, it wont start in neutral so i know its not the park/neutral switch...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If the solenoid is clicking, the ignition switch is sending 12 volts to the starter solenoid trigger wire (test point A).

Here is the normal path for 12 volts to get from the battery to the starter trigger wire:
battery --> 40 amp fuse C --> ignition switch --> inhibitor relay --> starter solenoid

Have you tried using a jumper wire from the battery to the starter trigger wire (test point A)? This will bypass the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay.

blkmax1

No i havent. Its raining today but i will try this weekend

So.i can cancel.the ignition switch being the problem? I dont want to keep on dumping money into it without resolving the issue

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Before we rule out the ignition switch, do the jumper wire from battery to the starter trigger wire. Based on what happens, we'll go from there.

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

I don't think he's listening to you