burned out light in seat heater switch ???
#1
burned out light in seat heater switch ???
anyone know how to replace that, and what kind of light it is?
It's going to the dealer next week for something else, but I'd just as soon do it myself if it's not a hastle.
thanks
It's going to the dealer next week for something else, but I'd just as soon do it myself if it's not a hastle.
thanks
#3
Seat heat switch light
I inquired at the dealer and they told me that they do not sell the replacement bulb. The bulb can be changed if you find it somewhere, but I had to change both switches at $37 Canadian each ($28us). The dealer informed me that the heaters usually don't work either if the bulbs are shot. I guess the bulbs complete the circuit.
Originally Posted by 2k2wannabe
anyone know how to replace that, and what kind of light it is?
It's going to the dealer next week for something else, but I'd just as soon do it myself if it's not a hastle.
thanks
It's going to the dealer next week for something else, but I'd just as soon do it myself if it's not a hastle.
thanks
#7
A little off-topic, but I have a question with the seat heater switch. Which way is more heat or less heat. I think the manual says opposite of what I was thinking. Do you rock it forward for the lower heat, or for higher heat? I thought the thicker line means more heat, but the manual says opposite. Just wondering. I have a 2000SE, btw.
#8
Originally Posted by ppetruccelli
I inquired at the dealer and they told me that they do not sell the replacement bulb. The bulb can be changed if you find it somewhere, but I had to change both switches at $37 Canadian each ($28us). The dealer informed me that the heaters usually don't work either if the bulbs are shot. I guess the bulbs complete the circuit.
#9
the bulb does not complete the circuit...mine heated fine without the light. They also told me there is no way to replace the bulb and they just did the whole switch. If I had to pay I would have gone to a junk yard and gotten the switch myself.
The thicker line ('push' the switch) is "more heat", thinner line is less heat. I can barely notice the 'less heat' setting unless it's REALLY cold.
The thicker line ('push' the switch) is "more heat", thinner line is less heat. I can barely notice the 'less heat' setting unless it's REALLY cold.
#16
Dealer Quoted $56 (Stated List Price is $76)
Dealer would not provide part number unless there in person. Why? Dealer stated that they receive too many calls with people using them to find part numbers and then shopping elsewhere.
I got the part number from the RockAuto link above, then stated number to Parts Department who would then verify the number.
RockAuto has it for $46.79, plus $6.62 shipping, for a total $53.41
Dealer stated he had the same problem on his Maxima!
#17
I fixed the bulb and it cost less than $2. Here's how to do it:
1 - Take the switch out of the center console. Be careful and pry it out gently.
2 - Disconnect the blue wiring connector and take the switch somewhere with good light.
3 - Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, gently release the 2 tabs holding the blue lower section to the switch assembly.
4 - Pull the blue section out (the sliding contact may fall out-no problem-see below)
5 - If you look at the blue section you'll see the bulb in a gray/blue rubber holder.
6 - The holder is press-fit to the two copper posts, Gently wiggle it off.
7 - The bulb wires make contact with the copper posts using contact pressure only
8 - With a jewler's screwdriver gently pull the bulb wires out of their holes paying attention to the way the wires were threaded through the holder.
9 - Carefully pull the bulb from its holder. Be careful around the actual bulb, it's sticky and the rubber holder can tear.
10 - Get a Radio Shack part number 272-1092 (12v microlamp) $1.69 for two.
11 - Take one lamp and feed its wires through the two holes in the base of the holder.
12 - Push the new lamp all the way down into the holder.
13 - Thread the wires back the way they were on the holder and cut off the extra wire
14 - Put the holder back on the copper posts with the lamp facing inside the switch
15 - If the black sliding connector fell out. Look inside the switch and place the connector back inside lining up the post on the connector with the U-shaped channel on the inside of the switch body.
16 - If the sliding connector is in correctly, you should be able to put your finger on it to hold it in place and rock the switch back and forth watching it move side-to-side.
17 - Rock the switch so the slider is to one side making the opening for the bulb as big as it can get.
18 - Slide the blub assembly as part of the blue section, back inside the switch with the bulb going up into the open section. Snap the two parts together.
19 - Put the switch back in your car and enjoy the new light!!
20 - This whole process only took about 5 minutes once I had the correct bulb.
1 - Take the switch out of the center console. Be careful and pry it out gently.
2 - Disconnect the blue wiring connector and take the switch somewhere with good light.
3 - Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, gently release the 2 tabs holding the blue lower section to the switch assembly.
4 - Pull the blue section out (the sliding contact may fall out-no problem-see below)
5 - If you look at the blue section you'll see the bulb in a gray/blue rubber holder.
6 - The holder is press-fit to the two copper posts, Gently wiggle it off.
7 - The bulb wires make contact with the copper posts using contact pressure only
8 - With a jewler's screwdriver gently pull the bulb wires out of their holes paying attention to the way the wires were threaded through the holder.
9 - Carefully pull the bulb from its holder. Be careful around the actual bulb, it's sticky and the rubber holder can tear.
10 - Get a Radio Shack part number 272-1092 (12v microlamp) $1.69 for two.
11 - Take one lamp and feed its wires through the two holes in the base of the holder.
12 - Push the new lamp all the way down into the holder.
13 - Thread the wires back the way they were on the holder and cut off the extra wire
14 - Put the holder back on the copper posts with the lamp facing inside the switch
15 - If the black sliding connector fell out. Look inside the switch and place the connector back inside lining up the post on the connector with the U-shaped channel on the inside of the switch body.
16 - If the sliding connector is in correctly, you should be able to put your finger on it to hold it in place and rock the switch back and forth watching it move side-to-side.
17 - Rock the switch so the slider is to one side making the opening for the bulb as big as it can get.
18 - Slide the blub assembly as part of the blue section, back inside the switch with the bulb going up into the open section. Snap the two parts together.
19 - Put the switch back in your car and enjoy the new light!!
20 - This whole process only took about 5 minutes once I had the correct bulb.
Last edited by tonyw; 11-14-2007 at 09:28 PM.
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