How do you know your strut is going or is broken??
#1
How do you know your strut is going or is broken??
With just about everyone experiencing broken struts, I am assuming I am next, now having 8,000 km on my Max.
How do you actually know you have the problem? I would kinda like to find out before one collapses on me at 140 km/hr...
Thanks for any help you can provide.
How do you actually know you have the problem? I would kinda like to find out before one collapses on me at 140 km/hr...
Thanks for any help you can provide.
#2
Originally Posted by 2004 Smoke
With just about everyone experiencing broken struts, I am assuming I am next, now having 8,000 km on my Max.
How do you actually know you have the problem? I would kinda like to find out before one collapses on me at 140 km/hr...
Thanks for any help you can provide.
How do you actually know you have the problem? I would kinda like to find out before one collapses on me at 140 km/hr...
Thanks for any help you can provide.
#3
You don't really notice a big difference driving, handling wise, its just that you hear a constant clap/thundering sound whenever you go over a pothole or rut with a particular wheel. My front right strut broke with all of 800 miles on the car.
#4
Originally Posted by 2004 Smoke
With just about everyone experiencing broken struts, I am assuming I am next, now having 8,000 km on my Max. . .
I'm keeping my fingers crossed because of the many complaints on this site, but so far I've been lucky with my struts.
#5
My struts are fine at 5K miles.
I would think turning into a parking lot or driveway where there is a gutter between the roadway and the lot/drive would be a good test of the struts. Cross the gutter at an angle, as that puts maximum torque on the car (and hence on the struts). If you hear a clunking, or other strange sound, it may be time to have your struts carefully checked.
As they are under warranty for 36K, the dealer should be willing to tell you if one is bad; Nissan will cover the cost of the new strut and labor.
I would think turning into a parking lot or driveway where there is a gutter between the roadway and the lot/drive would be a good test of the struts. Cross the gutter at an angle, as that puts maximum torque on the car (and hence on the struts). If you hear a clunking, or other strange sound, it may be time to have your struts carefully checked.
As they are under warranty for 36K, the dealer should be willing to tell you if one is bad; Nissan will cover the cost of the new strut and labor.
#6
I hear will sometimes hear what can closely be described as a 'squishing' sound when I go over the edge-of-parking lot gutter or hump, and other times a 'popping' sound can be heard going over the same bump. I've been told that this is most likely a strut issue (it seems to always come from the front, but I haven't been able to determine which side it is coming from yet). Are these the symptoms that everyone else has been experiencing?
I told my dealer that I was having some strut concerns, and he basically blew me off.. I've been in there so many times for different things that all he said on the customer sheet was "customer has suspension concern", and he proceeded to drive over the roughest road possible - and didn't find a thing wrong.... all the while giving me that fake "I hate you" smile. I wonder what he'll do when I hand him the shimmy TSB?
Thanks
I told my dealer that I was having some strut concerns, and he basically blew me off.. I've been in there so many times for different things that all he said on the customer sheet was "customer has suspension concern", and he proceeded to drive over the roughest road possible - and didn't find a thing wrong.... all the while giving me that fake "I hate you" smile. I wonder what he'll do when I hand him the shimmy TSB?
Thanks
#8
Originally Posted by SilverBelle04
The sound that i experienced was a definite, repetitive clunking noise which was quite noticable on any bumps in the road. They replaced my right strut.
Bob
Bob
#9
Originally Posted by 2004 Smoke
With just about everyone experiencing broken struts, I am assuming I am next, now having 8,000 km on my Max.
How do you actually know you have the problem? I would kinda like to find out before one collapses on me at 140 km/hr...
Thanks for any help you can provide.
How do you actually know you have the problem? I would kinda like to find out before one collapses on me at 140 km/hr...
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Just my 2 cents.
#10
Originally Posted by silvermax04
These clunking noice , can you hear them with all windows up, is it that audible?
yes its a loud bang, you will hear it in the car with the windows up. alos if you have concerns about the struts take a quick look at them. if you see them leaking, your strut is blown. also you could "jounce" the area of the car that you suspect to be a problem (in other words push down on it to make the suspension work) it it recovers fast and not much bouncing then the struts are fine. if it dosent recover quickly and bounces more than 4 times by itself then you wanna have them checked.
#11
On my 04 when I had it 2 weeks after we bought it, it started making a knocking sound. You will know something is broken because it would knock at every bump. The 05 so far has no problems except for the smell. Now that it's cold it doesn't smell though.
#13
I am currentl waiting for replacement parts for the dealer. The squishing sound will grow into a audible thumping sound as you continue to drive your car. If it gets really bad it will effect the way you car handles. My Max drives like a buck board currently. This is my third time with this problem. It is driving me nuts, to the point I have almost lost total confidence in the Maxima Product. Yes it is fast, but I want fast, but safe.
#14
Originally Posted by 2004 Smoke
With just about everyone experiencing broken struts, I am assuming I am next, now having 8,000 km on my Max.
How do you actually know you have the problem? I would kinda like to find out before one collapses on me at 140 km/hr...
Thanks for any help you can provide.
How do you actually know you have the problem? I would kinda like to find out before one collapses on me at 140 km/hr...
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Struts serve only to damp the bumps you go over so you don't keep bouncing after you've got over the bump. If they blow, your car will simply be bouncy. It won't 'collapse' on you, only a spring could do that...
#15
to add to Blaise it is a rattle/knock that you can here when going over bumps, I haven't had a chance to take mine in to get it fixed, but mine is audible even with the radio on (but not turned up) and the windows up. I started hearing it back when the car had about 5K on it, but it went away, now it is back in full with almost 30K on it.
#17
I know this thread is very old, but I just started hearing a popping sound today while making a right turn off the freeway off-ramp. As I continued driving home, every time I turned the steering wheel either direction 3/4 of a turn or more, I heard a pop coming from the front left strut region of the engine bay. I'm curious if this indicated a broken or breaking strut? I have a 2005 model Max with the Racingline strut tower brace and 71,500 miles on it. Any input is much appreciated and thank you in advance!
-Steven
-Steven
#18
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
I know this thread is very old, but I just started hearing a popping sound today while making a right turn off the freeway off-ramp. As I continued driving home, every time I turned the steering wheel either direction 3/4 of a turn or more, I heard a pop coming from the front left strut region of the engine bay. I'm curious if this indicated a broken or breaking strut? I have a 2005 model Max with the Racingline strut tower brace and 71,500 miles on it. Any input is much appreciated and thank you in advance!
-Steven
-Steven
#20
My 2004 had the strut knocking at about 100k. The car still drove fine, but the knocking drove me crazy. I replaced both front stuts (Brakes too while I had it appart). After I put it back together, I got an alinement. Drives great now, too bad they put such cheap parts in.
#21
My 2004 had the strut knocking at about 100k. The car still drove fine, but the knocking drove me crazy. I replaced both front stuts (Brakes too while I had it appart). After I put it back together, I got an alinement. Drives great now, too bad they put such cheap parts in.
#22
I lowered my car with Eibach springs but kept the stock strut. I am hearing the same 'knock' or 'popping' sound. I did rotate the spring from the spring perch approximately 1/4" and the sound dimenished however it is still there. 2008 with 17,000+ miles on it and factory 18's.
#26
Ill bump this thread again since I inspected both the front struts and back shocks. Both front are busted and the back shocks, both, are bad...i see leaking too so i know it needs replacing.
So I get an estimate from Midas. 1200 bones to do all fours (including parts). I mean call me stupid, but that is way over priced. I looked at the detail and it was 680 for parts and 550 something for labor. I noticed the OEM struts marked as 281 a piece for fronts..What are these guys smoking on?
So obviously I looked at the KYB GR2 struts and shocks (about 60 for fronts and 50 for back shocks), only thing is i cannot find these babies locally. Do I have to get these online?? if so, what site do you guys recommend? I Shopped around for labor, and the cheapest I found was 55 bucks for strut and shock...so I guess thats about 250 which is reasonable I think...true?
Also, I am not a mechanic by any means but I looked at some DIY videos on how to replace struts, it doesnt seem that hard and my father in law has tools.
Is this DIY-able? Is there a sticky on strut replacement? Or maybe someone could direct me to a site that properly shows how to do it. I don't mind 300 bbucks of labor, but I figured if I could save 300 bucks, I can put that towards Eibach lowering springs and get it over it!...
So I get an estimate from Midas. 1200 bones to do all fours (including parts). I mean call me stupid, but that is way over priced. I looked at the detail and it was 680 for parts and 550 something for labor. I noticed the OEM struts marked as 281 a piece for fronts..What are these guys smoking on?
So obviously I looked at the KYB GR2 struts and shocks (about 60 for fronts and 50 for back shocks), only thing is i cannot find these babies locally. Do I have to get these online?? if so, what site do you guys recommend? I Shopped around for labor, and the cheapest I found was 55 bucks for strut and shock...so I guess thats about 250 which is reasonable I think...true?
Also, I am not a mechanic by any means but I looked at some DIY videos on how to replace struts, it doesnt seem that hard and my father in law has tools.
Is this DIY-able? Is there a sticky on strut replacement? Or maybe someone could direct me to a site that properly shows how to do it. I don't mind 300 bbucks of labor, but I figured if I could save 300 bucks, I can put that towards Eibach lowering springs and get it over it!...
#27
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
Ill bump this thread again since I inspected both the front struts and back shocks. Both front are busted and the back shocks, both, are bad...i see leaking too so i know it needs replacing.
So I get an estimate from Midas. 1200 bones to do all fours (including parts). I mean call me stupid, but that is way over priced. I looked at the detail and it was 680 for parts and 550 something for labor. I noticed the OEM struts marked as 281 a piece for fronts..What are these guys smoking on?
So obviously I looked at the KYB GR2 struts and shocks (about 60 for fronts and 50 for back shocks), only thing is i cannot find these babies locally. Do I have to get these online?? if so, what site do you guys recommend? I Shopped around for labor, and the cheapest I found was 55 bucks for strut and shock...so I guess thats about 250 which is reasonable I think...true?
Also, I am not a mechanic by any means but I looked at some DIY videos on how to replace struts, it doesnt seem that hard and my father in law has tools.
Is this DIY-able? Is there a sticky on strut replacement? Or maybe someone could direct me to a site that properly shows how to do it. I don't mind 300 bbucks of labor, but I figured if I could save 300 bucks, I can put that towards Eibach lowering springs and get it over it!...
So I get an estimate from Midas. 1200 bones to do all fours (including parts). I mean call me stupid, but that is way over priced. I looked at the detail and it was 680 for parts and 550 something for labor. I noticed the OEM struts marked as 281 a piece for fronts..What are these guys smoking on?
So obviously I looked at the KYB GR2 struts and shocks (about 60 for fronts and 50 for back shocks), only thing is i cannot find these babies locally. Do I have to get these online?? if so, what site do you guys recommend? I Shopped around for labor, and the cheapest I found was 55 bucks for strut and shock...so I guess thats about 250 which is reasonable I think...true?
Also, I am not a mechanic by any means but I looked at some DIY videos on how to replace struts, it doesnt seem that hard and my father in law has tools.
Is this DIY-able? Is there a sticky on strut replacement? Or maybe someone could direct me to a site that properly shows how to do it. I don't mind 300 bbucks of labor, but I figured if I could save 300 bucks, I can put that towards Eibach lowering springs and get it over it!...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-G...61210004r24641
Make sure you get a computer alignment after install.
$272 shipped, that means you have $928 left over for install and alignment and do not take it to those fools who gave you that outrageous quote, $350 max for a full install plus alignment!!! The rears are easy and you may be able to do them yourself (3 bolts) and all you have to do is put the rear of your car on 2 jack stands and remove the rear wheels and from inside the wheel well 2 bolts up top, one on the bottom, just use a jack to compress the rear springs to get the bottom bolt off/on...
Last edited by chernmax; 12-07-2008 at 07:57 PM.
#28
Here you go for both front and rear (KYB GR2) somewhat better than OEM and at a great price!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-G...61210004r24641
Make sure you get a computer alignment after install.
$272 shipped, that means you have $928 left over for install and alignment and do not take it to those fools who gave you that outrageous quote, $350 max for a full install plus alignment!!! The rears are easy and you may be able to do them yourself (3 bolts) and all you have to do is put the rear of your car on 2 jack stands and remove the rear wheels and from inside the wheel well 2 bolts up top, one on the bottom, just use a jack to compress the rear springs to get the bottom bolt off/on...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-G...61210004r24641
Make sure you get a computer alignment after install.
$272 shipped, that means you have $928 left over for install and alignment and do not take it to those fools who gave you that outrageous quote, $350 max for a full install plus alignment!!! The rears are easy and you may be able to do them yourself (3 bolts) and all you have to do is put the rear of your car on 2 jack stands and remove the rear wheels and from inside the wheel well 2 bolts up top, one on the bottom, just use a jack to compress the rear springs to get the bottom bolt off/on...
#30
*I actually found the KYB struts and Shocks here locally at "car quest" I didn;t realize they are one of the largest dealers that KYB distributs to. Anyways, it costs a bit more there but in the end, since I wont have to pay for shipping and I am getting it right away 2 miles away, it's same...or better. About to go to the shop. I'll keep yall posted. Hopefully my 06 max with 58K will feel and sound and ride like it should be after these babies are on!
#31
I had a knocking sound coming from my front shocks...most of the time it was the left shock...basically the shock is still good, it's just that the shock is noisy when you go over a bump. I remember about a 1,5 years ago when the noise was persistent even after they replaced both shocks so they replaced the front bearing mounts (under the hood) and they also replaced the silicon/rubber spacer...of which there is a newly designed part without the metal plate (less noise). When the right shock was noisy again this year I replaced both with KYB GR2's. Unfortunately I had a defective shock (defective valve seal) which was replace free of charge...though my friend who is a mechanic charged me two hours or $60 to replace....Now I still get a noise from time to time...price of being lowered with Eibachs however the ride and handling is amazing and I can drown the sound out with my new speakers anyway LOL! This year they also replaced a part in my steering mechanism....all warranty work. I also just replace the front brake booster valve, that cost $140 and was not covered by my extended warranty. BTW the extended warranty does not cover the shocks...Don't forget to do the alignment after you change the shocks eh!
I love the lowered look too!
I love the lowered look too!
#32
I agree with Elmo youwill here slight knockin or rattle in the front..
#33
ok I just got back from Pep Boys, had both struts in the front and both shocks in the back replaced, all KYB. The ride is soooo much better, and the car is more poise when pushed to the limit (of course all struts and shocks were all blown so this might not mean much). I do however still have a knocking noise in the back right occasionally. What do you guys think that could be? the sound seems to come directly in the corner of the car so I am assuming it has to do with the shocks,,,but I don't know.
I notice that our trunk lid is really light and kind of clunky...when I close the trunk on our other car, it seems way more solid then the Max...could this noise be coming from the trunk? or at least the mechanism that opens and closes it?
I notice that our trunk lid is really light and kind of clunky...when I close the trunk on our other car, it seems way more solid then the Max...could this noise be coming from the trunk? or at least the mechanism that opens and closes it?
#36
I just replaced my two front struts with KYB, and it is night and day difference in feel of the car. Price: $379 total
My right front would make an awful groaning sound when going over a pothole or dip in the road. Also, when I pushed down on the front of the car it would make a clicking sound and wouldn't come up right away like it was being held back...
I also wanted to point this out...does anyone notice better traction through replacing bad struts? It feels like my car has much more grip upon acceleration. I'm guessing it's because it doesn't bounce as much causing the tires to be firmly planted on the ground and not skipping up...
My right front would make an awful groaning sound when going over a pothole or dip in the road. Also, when I pushed down on the front of the car it would make a clicking sound and wouldn't come up right away like it was being held back...
I also wanted to point this out...does anyone notice better traction through replacing bad struts? It feels like my car has much more grip upon acceleration. I'm guessing it's because it doesn't bounce as much causing the tires to be firmly planted on the ground and not skipping up...
Last edited by MaxEx; 12-10-2008 at 12:16 PM.
#37
ok I just got back from Pep Boys, had both struts in the front and both shocks in the back replaced, all KYB. The ride is soooo much better, and the car is more poise when pushed to the limit (of course all struts and shocks were all blown so this might not mean much). I do however still have a knocking noise in the back right occasionally. What do you guys think that could be? the sound seems to come directly in the corner of the car so I am assuming it has to do with the shocks,,,but I don't know.
I notice that our trunk lid is really light and kind of clunky...when I close the trunk on our other car, it seems way more solid then the Max...could this noise be coming from the trunk? or at least the mechanism that opens and closes it?
I notice that our trunk lid is really light and kind of clunky...when I close the trunk on our other car, it seems way more solid then the Max...could this noise be coming from the trunk? or at least the mechanism that opens and closes it?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tarun900
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
19
12-20-2021 06:57 PM
MaxLvr21
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
14
10-17-2015 12:11 PM
maxima-junky
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
1
10-07-2015 06:13 PM