MaximaInCT203

Long time no speak ORG Members!

I have an 08 Max with approximately 115K on the dash. I have the following "Mods" to my vehicle, if it even matters (had them all since 20K Miles):
1. HID Kit, 35W 4300K Bulbs
2. Short Ram INJEN intake
3. Aftermarket DVD Based EclipseAVN5500 Nav Unit w/Backup Camera
4. LED Reverse Lights

While sitting idle, all lights on the dash, and Climate Control Information Center flicker like crazy. When the radiator fans cycle on is really when it seems to flicker heavily. This will happen even without turning on the headlights.

When turning on the headlights and fog lights, the entire navigation system turns off then on, the dash lights completely cuts off then back on within ½ second.

This first started happening randomly back in July. My first move was to take a reading across the terminals to see if the battery was taking a charge under load, and it wasn't. The reading at the time was about 12.3V. I subsequently changed the alternator. After changing the alternator, it was still doing the same thing.. I decided to wait a while and until things got worse which was 2 weekends ago, where the power level got so low that pressing the gas pedal didn't do anything...i decided to then change the Battery....After changing the battery, I have yet to get back to a point where pressing the gas doesn't do anything, but the lights still flicker and the NAV still shuts off then back on. Current voltage across the terminal is 12.4V. All fuses under hood and in the car have been checked and are good. My cousin seems to think its a bad negative cable....but I disagree.

Oh...and the old alternator was taken to auto zone and checked to be good (sanity check). Any thoughts on what could possibly be causing this? Any help/thoughts/questions would be greatly appreciated.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The alternator is not putting out enough current to handle the load. You haven't mentioned anything in your mods that would draw a lot of amps and overload the alternator.

So if the alternator itself is good, what could keep it from charging?

The alternator is not grounded. Not very likely. It gets grounded from being bolted on.

The stator is not getting power. There is a small plug on the alternator with 2 wires in it. The the yellow/black stripe wire supplies 12 volts to the stator. It gets power from fuse # 26 located in the box under the hood.

The other wire in that small plug (solid brown) is for the battery light in the instrument panel. When the alternator is spinning, the internal voltage regulator will put 12 - 14 volts on this wire if everything is OK. If the voltage regulator thinks there is something wrong, it will ground this wire and the battery light comes on.

Check this little plug carefully. Make sure that the contact pins are not coming out of the connector. Inspect the wires to make sure they aren't breaking off from the contact pins. Check the harness for this plug that it didn't somehow get nicked or cut.

MaximaInCT203

I went ahead and replaced the negative cable since it was a relatively easy and cheap task. That didn't help. It's still doing the same thing. I will take your advice and take a real close look at the plug. I do recall removing it while the car was running and it not making a difference to the voltage across the terminals. Would it be a bad idea to simply add some dielectric grease inside of the connector to ensure proper connection? Could I hook up my multimeter in some way to verify that there is proper voltage being supplied to/from the alt?

Thanks again for your help. As soon as daylight hits I'll check into everything you mentioned

MaximaInCT203

There are 2 connectors on the alternator: one that sits topside and one that is actually underneath it. Which one do you speak of? The one underneath is pretty tiny and is a p.i.t.a to get to...I'm hoping this isn't the one you are referencing.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Oh great - you have the Motorola alternator. I thought 2009 was when they started using it.

So I don't exactly which connector. You want a 2 wire connector that has a yellow/black stripe wire and a solid brown wire in it. I think it is the top one, but go by the wire colors.

And check that fuse. See page 74.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2008/PG.pdf

Also, that diagram shows this perverted fuse thing attached to the positive battery terminal. I saw a video on youtube about it where it supposedly has problems, the 120 amp fusible link that is closest to the battery terminal. The guy in the video says it is a $35 (?maybe) part. I'll see if I can find that video. The output from the alternator has to go through that 120 amp fusible link.

MaximaInCT203

DennisMik

Your help has been invaluable to me. I have found the issue and it lied within the Positive Terminal. The two-pronged metal connector had a spilt in it causing only one side of the connector to really have full voltage. I went out and bought a new brass terminal with a 2-port connector and it resolved the problem. Needless to say, i have a new alternator, new battery cable, and new battery....I SHOULD be good with the electrical system of my car for a while lol.

Thanks again man. Truly appreciate it.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You had the perseverance to stick with it and you got it. Congratulations.

james_costanza

It is great to see members helping members.