Wheel Bearing Replacement
#1
Wheel Bearing Replacement
I've searched the forums but can't find this. I've got a 2005 SE, does anyone know the steps for changing out the front wheel bearings?
Also, a good source for purchasing a Driver's side powered, heated mirror w/memory?
Thanks for the help.
Also, a good source for purchasing a Driver's side powered, heated mirror w/memory?
Thanks for the help.
#2
Should be the same as the Altima......remove the knuckle with hub attached, take to a shop, along with a new bearing. The fronts require a press to get them out or in, so this is why you must take it to a shop.....unless you have a press.
#3
You'll need to buy a new bearing and hub. I replaced only the bearing and ended up tearing it down a 2nd time to replace the hub because it was bad as well. Replace both at the same time!
As 4DRZ said...Remove the tire, brake caliper, rotor, and axle nut. Then remove the knuckle by removing the two bottom bolts on the shock, tie rod, and lower ball joint. Press the hub out of the knuckle, press the new bearing in the knuckle, and then press the new hub into the knuckle assembly. Install the knuckle in revers order.
It's easy if you're mechanically inclined.
As 4DRZ said...Remove the tire, brake caliper, rotor, and axle nut. Then remove the knuckle by removing the two bottom bolts on the shock, tie rod, and lower ball joint. Press the hub out of the knuckle, press the new bearing in the knuckle, and then press the new hub into the knuckle assembly. Install the knuckle in revers order.
It's easy if you're mechanically inclined.
#5
For wheel bearing.. when driving at 20+ mph.. you should hear a humming noise.. The faster you go the louder it gets.. When turing to one side and it gets louder, its the opposite side.. For Ex: Turn left and gets louder its the right side wheel bearing thats bad.. If you don't hear humming, no bad wheel bearings.. I've already replace both of mines and I only got 50K+ miles.. Hope this helps..
#6
After a bearing replacement, is an alignment needed? I had the right front done and now I feel a drift to the left. Is it my imagination or do I need it done? I had an alignment summer 2009 when I got new tires.
#7
Anytime you do any changes even after marking a tie rod, etc. You should have an alignment done, even being slightly off it should be done, not everything is machined perfectly. Any part can look pretty identical but are not. Once you change any part that would affect alignment, it should be redone. You cannot visually see alignment issues with your eye, but if you drive on a fairly flat road and see how straight you go you can tell.
I recall having to replace a control arm that had a slight little bend and it threw off my alignment big time. I compared the bad control arm to the new control arm and I could barely notice anything different. Sometimes I wish I could have a computerized alignment machine, but it's not feasible to own one. You are better off paying the 100 dollars or so to have the alignment done in the shop.
I recall having to replace a control arm that had a slight little bend and it threw off my alignment big time. I compared the bad control arm to the new control arm and I could barely notice anything different. Sometimes I wish I could have a computerized alignment machine, but it's not feasible to own one. You are better off paying the 100 dollars or so to have the alignment done in the shop.
#8
Anytime you do any changes even after marking a tie rod, etc. You should have an alignment done, even being slightly off it should be done, not everything is machined perfectly. Any part can look pretty identical but are not. Once you change any part that would affect alignment, it should be redone. You cannot visually see alignment issues with your eye, but if you drive on a fairly flat road and see how straight you go you can tell.
I recall having to replace a control arm that had a slight little bend and it threw off my alignment big time. I compared the bad control arm to the new control arm and I could barely notice anything different. Sometimes I wish I could have a computerized alignment machine, but it's not feasible to own one. You are better off paying the 100 dollars or so to have the alignment done in the shop.
I recall having to replace a control arm that had a slight little bend and it threw off my alignment big time. I compared the bad control arm to the new control arm and I could barely notice anything different. Sometimes I wish I could have a computerized alignment machine, but it's not feasible to own one. You are better off paying the 100 dollars or so to have the alignment done in the shop.
#9
#10
Hey guys. Wheel bearing, spindle completely shot I learned today.
What is a reasonable price for the whole assembly
hub: bearing and spindle
I am not even sure if the "assembly" that I see advertised online is all of these?
Pep boys called around for me and found one for 190 something.
This would be one for the right hand side.
Is this fair? I am not a cheap skate, I am just wanting to make sure this is a fair price.
I would hate to wait for days to get this part too so I might just go ahead with it being it's a Sat. today.
p.s: My 06 Sonata with identical miles is looking like a million dolla car in terms of reliability compared to my beloved Max. As much as it pains me to say that, it's truth in my case.
What is a reasonable price for the whole assembly
hub: bearing and spindle
I am not even sure if the "assembly" that I see advertised online is all of these?
Pep boys called around for me and found one for 190 something.
This would be one for the right hand side.
Is this fair? I am not a cheap skate, I am just wanting to make sure this is a fair price.
I would hate to wait for days to get this part too so I might just go ahead with it being it's a Sat. today.
p.s: My 06 Sonata with identical miles is looking like a million dolla car in terms of reliability compared to my beloved Max. As much as it pains me to say that, it's truth in my case.
#12
Unfortunately I have 88 K...I have an extended warranty that I bought for 75K and that was prolly the biggest waste of money I spent, cause it seems that things went wrong right after 75 k ....
got the whole hub assembly replaced on the right side - labor + parts = 480
.....sadly
#13
This may be a dimb question....but, why can't I find a wheel hub/bearing assembly with the bearing already pressed into the hub. I can find the bearing only. I can find the hub only. And I can find the bearing and the hub sold together as an "assembly". But the bearing is not already pressed into the hub. Doesn't make sense to me.
Any ideas??
Any ideas??
#15
08 Maxima THUMOING LF Wheel
My 08 has a thump thump thump sound at 20-30 mph. The sound speeds up with acceleration. When turned to the left it gets louder. It has 64K on it. Just put new tires, pads and rotors. Then had tires rebalanced and have flipped them around a few times to rule out a bad tire. Thanks is advance for any help.
#16
You got a lot to learn if you don't do an alignment after replacing wheel bearings.
For the OP, anytime you take the front suspension apart, you need an alignment, I recommend it. To take teh wheel bearings out everything comes off, tie rods, strut, axle, again, yes you need alignment after this process.
#17
This may be a dimb question....but, why can't I find a wheel hub/bearing assembly with the bearing already pressed into the hub. I can find the bearing only. I can find the hub only. And I can find the bearing and the hub sold together as an "assembly". But the bearing is not already pressed into the hub. Doesn't make sense to me.
Any ideas??
Any ideas??
I also do not do alignments after changing wheel bearings. The tie rod adjustment does not change by removing it from the knuckle nor does the camber adjustment since it is not adjustable.
#18
#19
Your not taking out the suspension to get at the wheel bearing, and your simply just disconnecting the suspension componets such as tie rod end, not making adjustments or even to loosen the jam nut.. Where did you get your info from autozone cashiers..?
You got a lot to learn if you don't do an alignment after replacing wheel bearings.
For the OP, anytime you take the front suspension apart, you need an alignment, I recommend it. To take teh wheel bearings out everything comes off, tie rods, strut, axle, again, yes you need alignment after this process.
For the OP, anytime you take the front suspension apart, you need an alignment, I recommend it. To take teh wheel bearings out everything comes off, tie rods, strut, axle, again, yes you need alignment after this process.
#20
+1
Quote de Lsgun1
I also do not do alignments after changing wheel bearings. The tie rod adjustment does not change by removing it from the knuckle nor does the camber adjustment since it is not adjustable.
Quote de Lsgun1
I also do not do alignments after changing wheel bearings. The tie rod adjustment does not change by removing it from the knuckle nor does the camber adjustment since it is not adjustable.
#21
Alignment after bearing replacement
I had my front wheel bearings and hubs replaced at Firestone Auto Center. The service writer specifically said I do not have to have an alignment. The replacements had no impact what so ever to the alignment.
#22
You'll need to buy a new bearing and hub. I replaced only the bearing and ended up tearing it down a 2nd time to replace the hub because it was bad as well. Replace both at the same time!
As 4DRZ said...Remove the tire, brake caliper, rotor, and axle nut. Then remove the knuckle by removing the two bottom bolts on the shock, tie rod, and lower ball joint. Press the hub out of the knuckle, press the new bearing in the knuckle, and then press the new hub into the knuckle assembly. Install the knuckle in revers order.
It's easy if you're mechanically inclined.
As 4DRZ said...Remove the tire, brake caliper, rotor, and axle nut. Then remove the knuckle by removing the two bottom bolts on the shock, tie rod, and lower ball joint. Press the hub out of the knuckle, press the new bearing in the knuckle, and then press the new hub into the knuckle assembly. Install the knuckle in revers order.
It's easy if you're mechanically inclined.
Also is this a good deal ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/i30-i...item2a106b288b
#25
#27
#28
I BOUGHT THE WHOLE AXLE WITH HUB AND BOOT FOR 56.00 AT AUTOZONE. MY BOOT WORE OUT AND LEARNED IT WAS EASIER TO REPLCE THAN JUST THE BEARRINGS SINCE i DONT HAVE A PRESS. THATS WHY i AM HERE TO FIND THE PROPER STEPS TO REPLACE
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