passenger side axle 3 bolts
#1
passenger side axle 3 bolts
need info before doing the job. do you put everything in place like inserting the axle into the bearing and align everything before tightening the 3 bolts? or it doesn't matter. thanks for the help.
#2
if your talking about the axle mount that mounts to the motor, if the bracket is still on the motor then just slide the axle in then tighten it but it wont matter how you do it but it is easy to just mount the bracket to the motor first then slide the axle in
#3
Very big negative ghost rider! It is NOT easy to bolt it to the block and slide it through, ever try it?
Your best bet is to slide the axle into the trans first, with the bracket in place on the axle. Only way you can align the 3 - 14mm bolts. Getting that carrier bearing past the strut tower / ps pump is fun. Doable, but you gotta twist and play with the carrier bearing bracket to slip it past. Then it's just a matter of an extension (or three) and a 14mm socket. Reach in behind the strut tower with the ratchet, easy reach.
#4
Mine was VERY easy. I left the bracket on the engine, used a Gear wrench to remove the three bearing retainer bolts, slid right out and right back in. be careful to line the holes back up as you do it. You could use a long bolt with the head cut off as a guide tho.
#7
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btw, i took the bracket off the frame and then i removed the bracket from the axle once it was removed. there is no way i would of been able to remove the axle while the bracket was on the car.
#8
I've removed the passenger side axle from two different 4th gens and I had to remove the bracket from the motor both times. Once you get it off and separated, use a scotch bright pad to remove the rust build up and cover the mating surfaces with anti-seize to prevent it from rusting together again.
#9
thanks for the info ImmaSquashYou. i havn't looked into that area. i didn't know i can remove the bracket off the frame i thought it is permanently attached.
the original bushing on the sway bar link is torn and the link looks bad. since i need to change the bushing i thought i may as well change the whole thing. it looks like i won't have time for the tie rod. thanks for the tips.
ajm8127, thanks for the info. now i have to look into how to remove the bracket off the frame. need to check on many bolts there are.
the original bushing on the sway bar link is torn and the link looks bad. since i need to change the bushing i thought i may as well change the whole thing. it looks like i won't have time for the tie rod. thanks for the tips.
ajm8127, thanks for the info. now i have to look into how to remove the bracket off the frame. need to check on many bolts there are.
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Alexandria, VA, & Central Jersey
Posts: 2,647
thanks for the info ImmaSquashYou. i havn't looked into that area. i didn't know i can remove the bracket off the frame i thought it is permanently attached.
the original bushing on the sway bar link is torn and the link looks bad. since i need to change the bushing i thought i may as well change the whole thing. it looks like i won't have time for the tie rod. thanks for the tips.
ajm8127, thanks for the info. now i have to look into how to remove the bracket off the frame. need to check on many bolts there are.
the original bushing on the sway bar link is torn and the link looks bad. since i need to change the bushing i thought i may as well change the whole thing. it looks like i won't have time for the tie rod. thanks for the tips.
ajm8127, thanks for the info. now i have to look into how to remove the bracket off the frame. need to check on many bolts there are.
do you mean your stablizer bar (sway bar)? or the end links (ones that connect the sway bar to the knuckle)? Or the bushings on stablizer bar? I can see the replacing the end links, but shouldn't really need to replace the sway bar. But it is a pretty easy job if you're just doing the connecting rod. outer tie rod is easy too, just make sure you done over torque and def get an alignment.
Also, are you using air tools? i'm not sure if you can get the 36mm axle nut off without air tools. I did it once...and i will never do it again without air tools.
#11
As for the axle nut, at the very least try to find a 36mm impact socket. I've split a non-impact socket before using a breaker bar and a piece of black pipe to increase the torque. I know some auto parts stores will loan tools, so you might want to check the ones local to you.
Last edited by ajm8127; 07-28-2010 at 10:45 AM.
#12
Done this on my 97 and 96... Not to Hard...
Just a few notes ontop of what everyone else said... After removing the 3 14mm bolts, have a pan ready to catch your tranny fluid, use a small prybar against the transmission (not much pressure) and pop it out of the socket. Another note (I found out the hard way) when installing the new ones you will likely need to slightly tap the end with a large hammer. If you do this PUT THE LARGE NUT ON FIRST or you WILL strip the threads. Just turn it enough to make one large flat surface to tap...
GOOD LUCK!
GOOD LUCK!
#14
Just a few notes ontop of what everyone else said... After removing the 3 14mm bolts, have a pan ready to catch your tranny fluid, use a small prybar against the transmission (not much pressure) and pop it out of the socket. Another note (I found out the hard way) when installing the new ones you will likely need to slightly tap the end with a large hammer. If you do this PUT THE LARGE NUT ON FIRST or you WILL strip the threads. Just turn it enough to make one large flat surface to tap...
GOOD LUCK!
GOOD LUCK!
#15
This is a definite NO!!! for reinstalling the new one. you DO NOT hammer it in...are you nuts? You will damage your tranny seal and will be more trouble. You need to go under your car and carefully guide it into the tranny. Once its in the tranny, you can push it some of the way in and then use the 3 bolts and tighten it up to send it in the rest of the way...hammering is a definite NO!!!!!
#17
i just did my pass. side axle. i was a ***** if you have never worked on axles before. anyway, the "axle ring?" from the picture on the new axle came loose. is there a concern here? i ended up pushing it toward to the rubber seal "touching the motor end? what do you folks think?
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/o...7/IMG_3583.jpg
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/o...7/IMG_3583.jpg
#18
i just did my pass. side axle. i was a ***** if you have never worked on axles before. anyway, the "axle ring?" from the picture on the new axle came loose. is there a concern here? i ended up pushing it toward to the rubber seal "touching the motor end? what do you folks think?
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/o...7/IMG_3583.jpg
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/o...7/IMG_3583.jpg
I don't recall seeing that ring on my axle. Do you have ABS on your max??
#20
i just did my pass. side axle. i was a ***** if you have never worked on axles before. anyway, the "axle ring?" from the picture on the new axle came loose. is there a concern here? i ended up pushing it toward to the rubber seal "touching the motor end? what do you folks think?
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/o...7/IMG_3583.jpg
http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/o...7/IMG_3583.jpg
A tip: It's hard to tighten the three bracket bolts to the engine properly, so I put a lock washer on each to help them stay tight. Works great. Don't use loctite or you will be sorry.
#21
i guess i need to crazy glue the ring on to the shaft?
You need to make sure that ring is securely seated on the shaft. It rides along the axle seal, if it doesn't seal correctly it will leak or tear the seal and start to leak. Ask how I know. Needless to say, I've R&R'ed the passenger axle a few times.
A tip: It's hard to tighten the three bracket bolts to the engine properly, so I put a lock washer on each to help them stay tight. Works great. Don't use loctite or you will be sorry.
A tip: It's hard to tighten the three bracket bolts to the engine properly, so I put a lock washer on each to help them stay tight. Works great. Don't use loctite or you will be sorry.
#24
thanks all, both axles are in. i almost gave up with the left axle but finally pushed in. regarding the ring on the right side, there is a gap between the ring and the seal now. i left it that way because the ring is not perfectly round and don't want to damage the seal since it is riding on the shaft. it looks like it suppose to cover the seal part that extended outward just like the left side. drop me a line or give me a call if anyone reading this thread and needs help while the installation is still fresh in memory. please don't contact me a few year later.
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