Schmellyfart's 4th gen
#322
My 10lb digital scale measures to the thousandth, so I'll let the scales do the rounding for me
The little stuff will be posted directly in here, something like that I wanted to give a little more exposure as it is nearly a bolt on affair and relatively cheap.
The little stuff will be posted directly in here, something like that I wanted to give a little more exposure as it is nearly a bolt on affair and relatively cheap.
#323
Been a while. Just installed a CF trunk and lightened up the trunk arms while I was at it.
97 spoilerless trunk: 26lbs
Ionic Dynamics CF trunk: 15lbs
I also removed ~1lb from each of the trunk arms.
97 spoilerless trunk: 26lbs
Ionic Dynamics CF trunk: 15lbs
I also removed ~1lb from each of the trunk arms.
#325
Thanks, I must give credit to Krismax on that one.
I also picked up a MR2 Spyder drivers seat, 34.8lbs with rails, which almost line up perfectly. Rear bolt holes line up, the fronts need the tabs bent down along with a spacer and a longer bolt. Pics to come when I install it.
Stock driver seat weighs 44lbs power, 40lbs manual for reference.
I also picked up a MR2 Spyder drivers seat, 34.8lbs with rails, which almost line up perfectly. Rear bolt holes line up, the fronts need the tabs bent down along with a spacer and a longer bolt. Pics to come when I install it.
Stock driver seat weighs 44lbs power, 40lbs manual for reference.
#326
Also just went and weighed it at a local rock supply yard, the scale went in 20lb increments.
Vehicle weight bounced between 2960 and 2980, so I'll split the difference and call it 2970.
This was with driver (165-170), full tank of gas, full interior, cf hood & trunk, gutted trunk, no antenna, no washer fluid tank, no exhaust heat shields, 17lb battery, coilovers, fstb, rstb, altima headers, thick ss ypipe, vibrant 3" ultra quiet resonator, 2JR side exit, Milennia wheels with 205/65R15 LRR tires, ES bushings all around, mini side view mirrors, all floormats (10lbs), and lastly I had a gallon jug of water in there with me which is another ~8lbs. I think that is about all that's relevant.
TL;DR My car weighs about 2800 lbs with a full tank of gas.
Vehicle weight bounced between 2960 and 2980, so I'll split the difference and call it 2970.
This was with driver (165-170), full tank of gas, full interior, cf hood & trunk, gutted trunk, no antenna, no washer fluid tank, no exhaust heat shields, 17lb battery, coilovers, fstb, rstb, altima headers, thick ss ypipe, vibrant 3" ultra quiet resonator, 2JR side exit, Milennia wheels with 205/65R15 LRR tires, ES bushings all around, mini side view mirrors, all floormats (10lbs), and lastly I had a gallon jug of water in there with me which is another ~8lbs. I think that is about all that's relevant.
TL;DR My car weighs about 2800 lbs with a full tank of gas.
#327
Thanks, I must give credit to Krismax on that one.
I also picked up a MR2 Spyder drivers seat, 34.8lbs with rails, which almost line up perfectly. Rear bolt holes line up, the fronts need the tabs bent down along with a spacer and a longer bolt. Pics to come when I install it.
Stock driver seat weighs 44lbs power, 40lbs manual for reference.
I also picked up a MR2 Spyder drivers seat, 34.8lbs with rails, which almost line up perfectly. Rear bolt holes line up, the fronts need the tabs bent down along with a spacer and a longer bolt. Pics to come when I install it.
Stock driver seat weighs 44lbs power, 40lbs manual for reference.
#328
I pulled mine out of an 02, But I'd think any 3rd gen MR2 seat would be the same.
Also, I installed the seat last night. In order to make it sit level, I slotted the bolt hole that on the exhaust tunnel and let it rest on the ground. Then I ground down part of the front two mounting tabs, bent them down 90 degrees and threw some spacers and a longer bolt in.
I was too excited and didnt take any measurements, but you do sit lower. Maybe an inch or two. That could be remedied by using the original bolt hole on the exhaust tunnel and a spacer on the other rear mounting point.
The OEM 4th gen bolt holes do pull the MR2 rails out of alignment a little bit, so sliding the seat back and forth is a little notchy.
Also, I installed the seat last night. In order to make it sit level, I slotted the bolt hole that on the exhaust tunnel and let it rest on the ground. Then I ground down part of the front two mounting tabs, bent them down 90 degrees and threw some spacers and a longer bolt in.
I was too excited and didnt take any measurements, but you do sit lower. Maybe an inch or two. That could be remedied by using the original bolt hole on the exhaust tunnel and a spacer on the other rear mounting point.
The OEM 4th gen bolt holes do pull the MR2 rails out of alignment a little bit, so sliding the seat back and forth is a little notchy.
#332
you have the same chift **** as a local 6mt swapper...
Wait a second I thought you were 6mt swapped? I see no reverse lockout
Bravo sir, I shall deviate from my course of parts once more again thanks to you.
Wait a second I thought you were 6mt swapped? I see no reverse lockout
Bravo sir, I shall deviate from my course of parts once more again thanks to you.
#333
reading > you
I did the swap on a buddies car. I'll do the 6mt on mine sometime down the road, I'd rather get around to installing the parts I have sitting than to just buy more.
The shift **** is some rando that came with my cheapo eBay STS, thread pitch is different than the stock shifter so I left the **** on there.
Lastly, you're welcome.
I did the swap on a buddies car. I'll do the 6mt on mine sometime down the road, I'd rather get around to installing the parts I have sitting than to just buy more.
The shift **** is some rando that came with my cheapo eBay STS, thread pitch is different than the stock shifter so I left the **** on there.
Lastly, you're welcome.
#334
I knows it very well, got a pic of it in some goober's 6mt swap somewhere.
The L32 Altima 6mt ***** are weighted.... Just unbolt the pattern on the chifter and bolt on the old on, then viola! Cheap, weighted, chif ****.
#336
I'll take average powerband every time.
We're talking 40lbs max, not 200lbs.
There is not a single moment driving both of my 5mt 4th gens where i felt the 5mt was better.
If you're only concern is the scale, then yes, but you only worry about the scale because of performance am i right? Then cost? Well if you don't want to spend about 1k to make your car faster, more efficient, and reliable (facts btw), then well you must have your reasons.
Last edited by aackshun; 06-06-2015 at 09:23 AM.
#338
#339
Dropped about 12lbs with both mr2 seats. Should put the car at 2788lbs now.
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...t-install.html
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...t-install.html
#341
That's an excellent question. Realistically, after the addition of a 6mt there is only another 20-30lbs I can see myself removing before getting down to the luxuries, wiring, and going to town with an angle grinder as krismax has done.
After that, I'll just aim for more power and less friction
After that, I'll just aim for more power and less friction
#345
Long time no update.
December 2015 I installed the 2013 VQ35 engine and a 6MT, went through a few different 75mm tbs on the new engine but performace was pretty gutless, my second Mishimoto radiator was leaking, and I was throwing codes I didn't have with my previous 3.5. I eventually got tired of the car, bought an T-Top MR2 May 2016 and have DD'd that since then and let the Maxima sit.
Found a 93 MR2 Hardtop in June 2016 and scooped that one up to do a V6 swap. Working on selling the T-Top MR2 now.
Fast forward to last month where I've been working at an automotive proving ground for a year and a half which was holding a car show for our department, which I figured would be a great time to get the Maxima up and going again.
So in the last month I've done the following to the Maxima:
New Lawn Mower Battery (17lbs IIRC)
New OEM style Radiator (5lbs lighter than the Mishimoto)
Installed a PFTB with my own custom throttle body adapter and throttle cable bracket.
Installed R32 GTR Wheels (Tires that came with the wheels are too small, I will be upsizing to 245/50R16 as I had on my RX7 Wheels. (37-40lbs per corner vs 30lbs per corner of the Millenia wheels).
For whatever reason downsizing the TB on the Maxima UIM (Stock is 75mm) really woke the car up. I still have plenty more modding to do as the car currently only has a the 3.5, 6MT, Altima headers and 3" Y-Pipe.
December 2015 I installed the 2013 VQ35 engine and a 6MT, went through a few different 75mm tbs on the new engine but performace was pretty gutless, my second Mishimoto radiator was leaking, and I was throwing codes I didn't have with my previous 3.5. I eventually got tired of the car, bought an T-Top MR2 May 2016 and have DD'd that since then and let the Maxima sit.
Found a 93 MR2 Hardtop in June 2016 and scooped that one up to do a V6 swap. Working on selling the T-Top MR2 now.
Fast forward to last month where I've been working at an automotive proving ground for a year and a half which was holding a car show for our department, which I figured would be a great time to get the Maxima up and going again.
So in the last month I've done the following to the Maxima:
New Lawn Mower Battery (17lbs IIRC)
New OEM style Radiator (5lbs lighter than the Mishimoto)
Installed a PFTB with my own custom throttle body adapter and throttle cable bracket.
Installed R32 GTR Wheels (Tires that came with the wheels are too small, I will be upsizing to 245/50R16 as I had on my RX7 Wheels. (37-40lbs per corner vs 30lbs per corner of the Millenia wheels).
For whatever reason downsizing the TB on the Maxima UIM (Stock is 75mm) really woke the car up. I still have plenty more modding to do as the car currently only has a the 3.5, 6MT, Altima headers and 3" Y-Pipe.
#348
Thanks guys. Feels really good driving the Maxima again and I can't wait to let it breath a bit more to see what it does on the dyno and the track.
Current Laundry List:
-Fix CEL for rear o2 and KS, then emissions testing
-Make custom 6mt trans mount for stock unibody mount thats a little more refined than raw hockey pucks
-Make dust cover to seal opening under the 6mt shifter (OEM is discontinued)
-Make a VIAS controller, likely with Arduino or similar.
-Test 3.5" & 4" Intakes
-Make Catback, either full 3" or start and 3" and open up to 3.5"
-Tune
Current Laundry List:
-Fix CEL for rear o2 and KS, then emissions testing
-Make custom 6mt trans mount for stock unibody mount thats a little more refined than raw hockey pucks
-Make dust cover to seal opening under the 6mt shifter (OEM is discontinued)
-Make a VIAS controller, likely with Arduino or similar.
-Test 3.5" & 4" Intakes
-Make Catback, either full 3" or start and 3" and open up to 3.5"
-Tune
#350
Finally got the car though emissions, and what a nightmare it was.
I was able to pass emissions on my stock 97 ECU with my first ('03) 3.5 swap and EGR Delete 4 years ago.
I swapped out the '03 engine for a '13 engine because it was burning a lot of oil and I found a good deal on the '13 engine. After the '13 swap I get some EVAP codes I've never had before. All systems check out ok per the FSM for P1447.
OK no problem, I have a 95 Nistune ECU that I'll use since the 95's don't have an EVAP monitor.
After doing a lot of drive cycles and getting rejected for emissions a number of time for the car 'not being ready', I find out that my Nistune ECU resets the emissions monitors to 'not ready' every time the car is shut off, leaving me with 3 'not ready' when the maximum allowed is 2 'not ready'- This doesn't happen with my '97 or '96 ECUs.
Next I removed the Nistune board from the '95 ECU, no change.
I ended up finding a 95' 5MT ECU for $40 on car-part.com located an hour away. And with that virgin ECU I finally passed emissions. What a relief.
Is Nistune to blame here? My Nistune ECU was one of the first ones that Matt had installed it on, and was actually the ECU where he discovered that the 95 ECU also required the type 4 dual ROM board. Looking at the emails that was 5 years ago now
Amidst all of the drive cycles, one of the HVAC blend doors got stuck so now it only blows hot air.
I was able to pass emissions on my stock 97 ECU with my first ('03) 3.5 swap and EGR Delete 4 years ago.
I swapped out the '03 engine for a '13 engine because it was burning a lot of oil and I found a good deal on the '13 engine. After the '13 swap I get some EVAP codes I've never had before. All systems check out ok per the FSM for P1447.
OK no problem, I have a 95 Nistune ECU that I'll use since the 95's don't have an EVAP monitor.
After doing a lot of drive cycles and getting rejected for emissions a number of time for the car 'not being ready', I find out that my Nistune ECU resets the emissions monitors to 'not ready' every time the car is shut off, leaving me with 3 'not ready' when the maximum allowed is 2 'not ready'- This doesn't happen with my '97 or '96 ECUs.
Next I removed the Nistune board from the '95 ECU, no change.
I ended up finding a 95' 5MT ECU for $40 on car-part.com located an hour away. And with that virgin ECU I finally passed emissions. What a relief.
Is Nistune to blame here? My Nistune ECU was one of the first ones that Matt had installed it on, and was actually the ECU where he discovered that the 95 ECU also required the type 4 dual ROM board. Looking at the emails that was 5 years ago now
Amidst all of the drive cycles, one of the HVAC blend doors got stuck so now it only blows hot air.
Last edited by schmellyfart; 03-26-2018 at 09:40 PM.
#352
That sentence was correct, it was about my first 3.5 swap with an '03 engine 4 years ago. However I've edited the post to try and clarify a bit further.
Maybe its just me but I find emissions to be a PITA in general.
How are all 52 of your maximas doing?
Also forgot to mention earlier that I'll be deleting the sunroof in the near future since the sunroof motor finally gave out. A great opportunity to drop ~35lbs that I added with the 6MT swap. Currently debating between using a sheet of 1.5mm think aluminum or a UV rated polycarbonate/lexan.
Maybe its just me but I find emissions to be a PITA in general.
How are all 52 of your maximas doing?
Also forgot to mention earlier that I'll be deleting the sunroof in the near future since the sunroof motor finally gave out. A great opportunity to drop ~35lbs that I added with the 6MT swap. Currently debating between using a sheet of 1.5mm think aluminum or a UV rated polycarbonate/lexan.
Last edited by schmellyfart; 03-26-2018 at 09:49 PM.
#353
Also forgot to mention earlier that I'll be deleting the sunroof in the near future since the sunroof motor finally gave out. A great opportunity to drop ~35lbs that I added with the 6MT swap. Currently debating between using a sheet of 1.5mm think aluminum or a UV rated polycarbonate/lexan.
#354
#357
There's a even more I haven't had a chance to put on here.
#359
Thanks guys. Feels really good driving the Maxima again and I can't wait to let it breath a bit more to see what it does on the dyno and the track.
Current Laundry List:
[DONE] Fix CEL for rear o2 and KS, then emissions testing
[Prototype installed on my car for over a year now, currently fine tuning press brake operations before releasing to the wild] Make custom 6mt trans mount for stock unibody mount thats a little more refined than raw hockey pucks
[DONE - $1.08 bread pan from Wal-Mart with foam sealer] Make dust cover to seal opening under the 6mt shifter (OEM is discontinued)
[ha] Make a VIAS controller, likely with Arduino or similar.
[lol] Test 3.5" & 4" Intakes
[Buying a local 4th gen that has a lot of my old parts (3.0, 5mt, 00vi, and Cattman 3" catback)] Make Catback, either full 3" or start and 3" and open up to 3.5"
[Have a few EU's stashed away]Tune
Current Laundry List:
[DONE] Fix CEL for rear o2 and KS, then emissions testing
[Prototype installed on my car for over a year now, currently fine tuning press brake operations before releasing to the wild] Make custom 6mt trans mount for stock unibody mount thats a little more refined than raw hockey pucks
[DONE - $1.08 bread pan from Wal-Mart with foam sealer] Make dust cover to seal opening under the 6mt shifter (OEM is discontinued)
[ha] Make a VIAS controller, likely with Arduino or similar.
[lol] Test 3.5" & 4" Intakes
[Buying a local 4th gen that has a lot of my old parts (3.0, 5mt, 00vi, and Cattman 3" catback)] Make Catback, either full 3" or start and 3" and open up to 3.5"
[Have a few EU's stashed away]Tune
-I think my Steering rack bushings are worn since the car will pull right after a hard right turn and vise versa, probably going to refresh the entire steering rack.
-This 4.1 6MT has been making rattlings that I've been ignoring since day 1. I'm planning on doing some troubleshooting and if it comes down to it, installing the 3.8 HLSD 6mt that I pulled from deloa84's 4th gen (3.5 6mt swap I did for him back in 2014 - he blew the engine, I bought the car off of him ~2 years ago, towed it from CO to AZ and parted it out and kept some for myself, including the very first 6mt 3.0 timing ring I had made <3
-HVAC blend motor was fixed a while back.