t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

pic, I'm lost here

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Probably just like the one you made me.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Pics when I get the pipe - it's not complicated (I hope) just a better way to divert all those blue-flame (think F-n-F) nitrous gases back along the B-pipe instead of blowing out sideways and melting the fuel lines...

It's all because I had the cutout put on the driver's side of the collector. Wideband sensor is on the other side. The later E85 hardlines and 6AN hoses come together just where the blue flames would slag down everything. Woops.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

An unusual hydragia bloom - 1/2 blue and 1/2 pink. Usually it's one or the other, depending on the pH of the soil. My wife likes her gardens.



A 360 degree scan of the back yard: Click to watch...

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Harold, we running mid 10s yet or what?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Only in my dreams... I think I have finally updated every part that breaks with too much power applied. Only thing is that I'm not going to raise the direct-port nitrous level over 75% of jetting (150-shot) with the factory ECU timing - that level works well on the street even though the M/T DRs can't hold it above 5000. Somewhere around 450 WHP estimated... Dunno about the track - but slicks should stick if needed. Since both nitrous stages are throttle-controlled, I may have to drive it through gear changes for now.

I'm going to try another Test-n-Tune visit on July 18th at the local track - maybe no rain this time. Before then I'll have the new header cutout finished so I can install it on the day. The 3" pipe bend is delivering today, so break out the Eastwood MIG welder. Three bolts and the headers are opened.

" It's always something "

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I spent some time cutting off the old pipe from the 3-bolt flange, then moved the 3" 90* pipe stub around until I found a way to clear everything. Marked the position then pretended I was a welder and stuck the 90* pipe on the flange, then wrapped everything, including the E85 lines, with 2" lava rock insulation stuff (need more now) and secured that with stainless pipe clamps. Looks like everything clears OK -started up and let it idle- because LOUD - then felt the insulation and was still cool on the outside. I think this is good enough to try on the 18th.

Now if I can just get the car on and off the trailer with the cutout installed... pretty sure that if I mount the 24.5" slicks as well, something will hang up when loading. I'm taking off work on the 18th so I'll have time to check everything before I leave for the track.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Oh ok I get it now

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Heck of a way to boil E85, right?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

yeah

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I've been having an occasional problem with the second nitrous stage - sometimes it doesn't work at all, sometimes it fails after working in second gear. I had checked the wiring and the programming in the NX3 controller, and saw the Ramp Reset box -which wasn't selected. Googled that checkoff box and see where it allows the program to reset if the throttle is lifted. Hmmmm.. I enabled that box for both throttle-controlled stages and went for a drive. I can launch in first gear, spray, lift, spray again, do WOT and go into second gear, go into and out of spray then WOT and into third gear, repeat and spin DRs on demand. Not enough highway room to go very far into third, but when WOT it pulls like a beast! In any gear.. Wonder what happens when the headers are opened ??

I think I'm ready for Friday now.

Later today - I pulled plugs for an eyeball check and they looked normal (for E85) with heat showing on the ground straps back to the shell. Good - no plug drama from last night...

Even later today I got my new NX N2O pressure gauge and connected it to the main N2O feed line under the hood and mounted the gauge right next to the purge pipe, on the driver's side of the hood. Now I can see tank pressure real-time, all for $35...

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

The great news now just have to do a anti rain dance for Friday

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Wait - "anti-rain dance" ?? You mean I've been doing the wrong rain dance all this time? That's the last time I ask the local Indian tribes for help... They are having too much fun with their casinos to make the right dance, I guess. I wonder if there is a "dry dance" ??

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

The dry dance is best done sitting down with a beer.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

NX gauge mounted under the hood, next to the Tower of Purge, "all the better to see you with"

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Yeah......

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Lol

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

updates

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Cliff Note version: I loaded up stuff and went to the strip Friday night and made two passes, then came home.

The detailed version - Friday morning (I took Friday off because racing) began with lawn mowers, chain saws, lots of tree trunks being ground up and hauled off multiple times, a plumber working next door, an interior contractor working across the street, trucks and trailers unloading mowers and mowing yards - and this is just in my block. Everybody parked their vehicles in the street, which left me no way to get the trailer parked to load, so I eventually parked on the east side of the house. I had to load up the pickup in the driveway, load bottles and E85 in the car, go get the trailer about 4 miles away and park it on the east side, then turn on all flashers and put out traffic cones so I could load the car. Finished everything about 3PM then set outside in a camp chair to watch the pickup and trailer since I had to park on a busy street. Left about 5PM since the track wouldn't open until after 5PM.

Pix:

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Got checked in at the gate, went to the pits and parked and unloaded the car, went to tech garage and got thru that and went back to the trailer. Got out the generator and warmed up the bottles to 900 psi. Waited until about 7 PM when they began running a few cars. Drove down to the staging area and parked the car at one end, walked down and around to the launch area. Track prep seemed kinda light - at least some rubber was being laid down. A lot of different cars and motorcycles began to show up in the pits. Lots of enclosed trailers and tractor-trailer rigs kept arriving. Lots of evil-nasty cars were running around the pits - Yea!

EDIT: Steve Johnson, Induction Solutions, has changed his company's recommendation of nitrous pressure to 900 psi. I starting using 900 psi a while back, and I find that there is less pressure drop as you spray a big load. I was using the NOS recommendation of 950 psi, and that seemed to drop more.

I had set the front M/Ts to 25psi and the rears to 40, and the bottles were up to 900 psi, so I put on the helmet and fire jacket and got into the street car lineup. Off we go. I had left the nitrous programming alone (max 75%) and had the headers capped, to get a baseline run using what I had been using on the highways. Remember, up to this point, I have never made a complete WOT all-gears nitrous pass with this version of the car. Something would always break or fail to work, so I was kinda nervous.

7:50 PM -Spun em up thru the water, staged slowly, purged the bottles, got into the lights, and when countdown started I launched carefully and went WOT and held that until the traps. No drama, everything worked, and trapped a 12.83 ET 111 MPH and drove back to the trailer. Whew - first test over.

Numbers:
R/T.....674 (no comments - I didn't care)
60'......2.114
330.....5.672
1/8......8.440
MPH.....89.58
1000....10.811
E/T......12.833
MPH.....111.12


At the trailer, I left the fans on to cool things down. I decided to open the headers and try it again, using the same settings. I jacked up the Shark and installed the cutout pipe, with extra insulation I put on that afternoon, cause I got the 50ft roll of 2500 deg 2" insulation I had ordered. Loud - I like it. Engine temp was 137deg so I went back to the staging area and got in line. 9:11 PM. Used the same lane (left) again, did a nasty burnout, staged, launched on the lights and things got complicated. About 4500 the M/Ts broke loose and hit 6500 while chattering the tires ( ! ) and went into second gear and starting hammering the tires into the track - I backed out before I lost it, got into third and coasted it out.

Numbers:

R/T......081 ( getting dialed in)
60'.......2.208
330......5.859
1/8.......8.845
MPH......82.01
1000......11.457
E/T........13.649
MPH........103.79

I was making a lot more power with the open headers - the tires lost traction in first and second gears again. Sheesh - I thought about mounting the slicks but I was running out of time - I checking putting the car on the trailer with the cutout pipe installed but I couldn't clear the lip of the trailer, so I put the car back on the jackstands, took out the cutout pipe and put the car back on the trailer.

Next day the M/Ts looked - weird -so I took pix: there are scuff marks and tread cracks all over both of them. ?? I inspect tires often, and they didn't look like this until the evening was over. ??

Both sides look the same, but driver's was in sun and passenger's was in the shade. The tread on both look like pulled pork. Time for some more planning. Next time take my laptop so I can change the programs and start with the slicks.

Sunlit:


Shade:

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

you think they are dry rotted

ABIGBRAIN

iTrader: (1)

I don't think that they are dry rotted. But do you rotate your racing tires from left to right side at all? I swap mine every 20 passes or so. Even with vlsd they will wear differently.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Can't be dry-rotted - they're only a year old or so. They have direction arrows so side-to-side swapping isn't allowable. And no VLSD - has locker diffy.

I'm pretty sure that the tires got a case of stressed-out tread on Friday night, since there was not much tread damage until the last pass. The deep grooves in both tires now have deep extended tears in all the grooves, as well as the sandpapered look on the width of the treads. but, I dunno what's going on, but I either overpowered the track with open headers or I got into rubber cr*p left over from a bunch of street tires and lost traction because of that - although a Harley nitro dragster used my lane two cars ahead of me and clocked a 8.9x.

A guy I know saw me launch the second pass and he said there was flames coming out from under the car - I told him that's the nitrous candle coming on. That's OKC Street Racer talk for huge header flames with N2O. Oh, Discovery Channel at 8PM Central tonight - another new episode.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

lol, my old mickeys did that too, I called them and they said the tires were not meant to for fwd cars and to just turn the wheel side to side when doing a burnout

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Hmmmm... I did a mean burnout on the second pass. Jumped up about 15 feet when I let off the throttle, overrevved and had to get set back down in first gear. Guess I was showing off a bit - it was great that nothing broke on the first run. It did bite hard - which is why I was super disappointed with all the hopping around.

Can I have your turbo? I'm impressed with how far you've taken the stock 3.0 with a turbo - and a hella clutch. Someday...

ABIGBRAIN

iTrader: (1)

I know this Harold.
The swapping is doable... just have to take the tires OFF of the rims and remount for the opposite side.. My Mickeys (275/50/15's) did the same thing. One side would be "smooth" and the other would be "feathered" It has to do with the L/R weight bias. One thing that can help is to run 1-2 psi higher on the drivers side (depending upon how much you weigh) I go 1 psi higher as I weigh 190.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

If I were to do something about the tires, I could just swap mounted tires from side to side. That would rotate both tires in 'reverse'. I have the suspension tuned for those tires so that contact patch is level on both tires. I use the tension from the Tokiko lowering springs and 5-way adjustable struts, along with hard rubber spacers in the springs, to level out the sides and limit travel to less than one inch lift on launch (videos). The axles are mostly level, to reduce stress on the CV joints.

Since the diffy is now welded, if I experience pulling to left or right, it must be due to traction differences causing the pulling. The "chattering" I experienced was probably traction problems, but I haven't felt that since I first installed traction bars. Probably should check that adjustment.

I really need to try the M&H slicks, along with open headers, but that means some re-work on the dump pipe to clear the trailer - or, place 2" planks on the top to raise the car more when it goes up the ramps. That I can test at home...

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

nitrous is soo much easier and the 5spd trans is trash. over the years I've broken 9 of them and have been thinking about getting par gears or doing a 6spd swap

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I think nitrous is kinda like playing golf - almost anyone can do it badly, but to be very good you gotta spend a huge amount of time and money figuring it out. One thing I do think I've got a handle on is the automatic transmission like the 4AT one built by IPT. I finally broke my first one by driving it too much on the street, using my Shift_Fast and banging every gear. If I connected it to the factory TCU, it shifted much nicer and would probably have lasted much longer.

I don't know turbos but it's just a hair dryer connected to the exhaust pipe, right? Imagine your car with a +09 Maxima engine and 15psi of boost. .... and a IPT built transmission to hook it up...

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I'm going to build a track only auto turbo 4gen over the winter

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Any plans on which engine to use?

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Stock 3.0 till it dies, if I can get the car down to 2600-2700lbs then 400-450hp will be more than enough power to run the times I want

ABIGBRAIN

iTrader: (1)

I'm still making strides on the "big" race motor and will be possibly picking up an '05 Altima tranny this weekend for $64.99 + tax and core charge. (4.425 final drive)

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

yeah the altima trans would be a nice addition but only if the trans dies

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Gee, my hi-tech plans for this weekend are to add some 2x8 boards to the top of my trailer so I can install the slicks and exhaust cutout and still get the car on the trailer... not nearly as exciting as what you guys are working on.

Of course, if I still have traction problems, I can mount 26x10x15 M&H slicks on a spare set of American 8x15 wheels or possibly a 10x15 pair of MT race wheels. That's Plan B....

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Going on vacation this weekend so no maxima time for me, beer only

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I bought some 2/6 and 2x8 treated lumber and managed to raise the car quite a bit on the trailer. Took off the old boards and spaced everything up to raise the car up and over the dovetail joint. Lots of sawing and sanding...
PIX follows....

Head end of the trailer:




Rear view camera:


Front tire stop, with a drop-in for the front tires:



Front shot of the trailer:



Rear view, showing the raised boards. The Shark drove right up the ramps and into position in the ramps :



Everything done and tested with the car up on the trailer - fits good. I think I'm ready to mount the M&H slicks, open up the headers, and go Rock-n-Roll at the local strip next Friday night! :

krazy6

iTrader: (5)

Nice setup!

Look forward to hearing how the car runs!

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Thanks - this new wood work will let me adjust the car back a foot or so from the existing front-wheel stops. I've cut four more short sections of treated 4x4 wood to place between the existing stops and the front wheels - I think one or two on both sides will move the car back far enough to take some weight off the hitch. "Some adjustment required". Once set I will use a pile of 4" deck screws to hold in place.

Since the weather is still decent, I also applied 2 gal of Olympic waterproofing to the entire trailer top last night. Because I could - and the old wood was looking kinda dry.

I'm hoping the M&H slicks will hold the car with headers open. I think Friday will be exciting - and I'll remember the laptop so I can change the N2O controller's programming. So much to remember

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Last night I mounted the 24.5x15 M&H slicks, opened up the headers, went after the trailer and brought it home, set up the ramps and drove the Shark up onto the trailer all the way. No scraping sounds, everything cleared and I strapped the car down for the evening, sitting in my driveway. Took pics for later posting...

After work today I just need to go home and load up my stuff in the truck, hook up the trailer and go to the track. I really really like my backup camera - it's so easy to get the trailer hooked up now.