1/4 and 1/8 Mile Racing Talk about track times, launch techniques, strategies, etc. Check out the "Timeslips" subforum for posted times.No discussion of street racing will be tolerated.

New Auto 3.5 N/A time 13.4@101

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Old May 20, 2005 | 09:06 PM
  #41  
Aaron92SE's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Jime
No it didn't spin but it feels soft and slow. Didn't bog either just very spongy not quick like from idle. I have always launched right off of idle like you say and it seems to work the best. However, with the line lock I am probably going to run a delay box as well so its more to have consistency than be quick.

Easier on the car launching from idle as well but I won't stall it up util the tree is set and hopefully it won't be any more than a couple of seconds.

I have also contemplated puting in a throttle stop and running about 75% throttle to compare consistency as well, I have an adjustable one made just haven't tried it out yet.

Going to try it tomorrow without the a/c and ps belts on. Don't think it will make much difference but we'll see. We have a 2 day race weekend and I am camping over tomorrow night.

PS Hey Aaron if you want to see what a delay box will do for your r/t's just add about .95 or 1 sec in the delay box setting (starting line) and nail it on the first yellow. Its amazing the difference as opposed to leaving off the 3rd yellow.
Yeah a delay box will do wonders. But you can't do that in the non-electronics foot brake class. So, I would have to be in the Super Pro class. All those guys hae delay boxes and cut consistant .500s. If you cut .510s, you've pretty much lost the race.

I race without my AC belt on all the time. I also remove the alternator belt and have a multimeter to keep an eye on voltage. With a decent battery, I have never been endangered of not being able to start the car. I can even run my fans for 20 minutes on just the battery and it doesn't suck any noticable amount of battery life.

My water pump is external along with my PS pump. It's all on one belt, so i can't remove the PS pump. I can't run a shorter belt either b/c of the way the timing cover sticks out in the path of the planned shorter belt. So, the best I can do is remove the AC belt (not noticable of course) and the alternator belt (which does work!).

Good luck with the race this weekend!
Old May 20, 2005 | 09:25 PM
  #42  
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Jime do you manually shift your auto or just leave it in D?
Old May 21, 2005 | 02:33 AM
  #43  
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Left it in "D" jimes a bad as.s he won't leave it in D ...
Old May 21, 2005 | 03:19 AM
  #44  
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Actually I just leave it in D, (even if I am bad a$$) tried all different ways and its best just left alone.
Old May 21, 2005 | 03:35 AM
  #45  
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Mine always shifts faster when I manually shift. Back one month ago when I had less mods I was getting consistent 16.5, but when I did the manual shifting the time went down to 16.1

The thing with manual shifting is if you mess up there goes your run, but if you get it right then the time drops. This month I went to the track and had 4 runs. first 3 runs I messed up and got 16.3 then 16.2 then 16.06, and the last one I got right. 15.7
Old May 21, 2005 | 03:40 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
Yeah a delay box will do wonders. But you can't do that in the non-electronics foot brake class. So, I would have to be in the Super Pro class. All those guys hae delay boxes and cut consistant .500s. If you cut .510s, you've pretty much lost the race.

I race without my AC belt on all the time. I also remove the alternator belt and have a multimeter to keep an eye on voltage. With a decent battery, I have never been endangered of not being able to start the car. I can even run my fans for 20 minutes on just the battery and it doesn't suck any noticable amount of battery life.

My water pump is external along with my PS pump. It's all on one belt, so i can't remove the PS pump. I can't run a shorter belt either b/c of the way the timing cover sticks out in the path of the planned shorter belt. So, the best I can do is remove the AC belt (not noticable of course) and the alternator belt (which does work!).

Good luck with the race this weekend!

I should have known you would know all about delay boxes etc. Just got a lesson last weekend from a 9 sec v8 parked beside me, pretty neat stuff with the crossover etc and like you say if you run higher than a 10 you have pretty much lost it. I am in the 30-50 range most of the time which is not bad for foot braking but it is a real art to make it consistent. I think you told me you were avg in the 40's somewhere last year.

You are about the only other guy I know on here who actually races, I don't know of anyone else.

I removed the PS belt and bypassed the A/C, I may try unplugging the alt just to see what it does but my 6 lb battery may not take too long to discharge. Guess I can stop and the end of the 1/4 and plug it back in.

Picking up my 24.5 slicks this morn so that will probably slow me a bit, we will see.

Let me know what you have planned for the season.
Old May 21, 2005 | 08:23 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Jime
I should have known you would know all about delay boxes etc. Just got a lesson last weekend from a 9 sec v8 parked beside me, pretty neat stuff with the crossover etc and like you say if you run higher than a 10 you have pretty much lost it. I am in the 30-50 range most of the time which is not bad for foot braking but it is a real art to make it consistent. I think you told me you were avg in the 40's somewhere last year.

You are about the only other guy I know on here who actually races, I don't know of anyone else.

I removed the PS belt and bypassed the A/C, I may try unplugging the alt just to see what it does but my 6 lb battery may not take too long to discharge. Guess I can stop and the end of the 1/4 and plug it back in.

Picking up my 24.5 slicks this morn so that will probably slow me a bit, we will see.

Let me know what you have planned for the season.
Yeah, I usually average between .540 and .590 for the entire night. That is including the occasional brainfarts that I do sometimes (.600+). I have had several nights where I average .540-.550 without any redlights. But I usually have one redlight per race night, which hopefully comes during timetrials so I can get it out of my system before eliminations. But I have lost many races b/c I redlight. That's really my only big weakness. I can go plenty of rounds usually if I get within 2 or 3 hundredths of my dial in and cut anything better than a .550.

But last season, I won once and got 2 runner up finishes in the first 4 races. Now that is starting the season off well! I was #1 in the points for a little while. But there was a death in the family and I left Las Vegas to move to FL, where I won't continue my bracket racing. I hate the track here. The staff sucks, the track is just ok, but most importantly the staff doesn't know what the crap they are doing. I refuse to race there. I am about to move back to NC, where bracket racing is VERY serious. With all my skills, I'll be lucky to go 2 rounds on a good night! Those guys are really good. I should learn a lot.

But when I remove my alty belt, I estimate that I shave a full tenth in the 1/4 mile! It's that noticable! Think about how hard it is to turn an alternator by hand. It's a lot of resistance. I would get a cheap multimeter from Radio Shack (I got the $20 yellow digital one), and hook it up to a 12v source. I simply stuck a wire in the Battery Source fuse and stuck the fuse back in. It's a very easy and cheap way to keep an eye on your voltage while your car is off and the fans are still running.
Old Jun 9, 2005 | 10:44 AM
  #48  
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vq power man
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