Alright so any type tire is allowed. And of course no nitrous.

Just talked to Neal and I/we think that it would be fun to have a combined contest between Neal and I and You and Tilley. You guys know each other fairly well and me and Neal are good friends. We both have boosted 3.0's and you both have 3.5 4th gens. Some sort of combined ET and trap thingy...Neal is cruching some #'s to see how we could incoporate 2 peoples times and how ET and trap could both be used. For example combining ET's and trap speeds then dividing traps by the ET's to see who has the highest total number. But that would give a bias twoards trap and an advantage to us so we were trying to figure some other way to do it. If you have any ideas post them up.

 

Just go with the best E.T. Whoever is the better driver (I.E capable of handling the power).

 

I was hoping I could join with my little blue bottle and my 3.0. its my replacement for that .5 liter of displacement that krismax has and it makes up for not being boosted like Mike. its ok if ya'll are scared of the bottle. I understand.

 

Id just go with ET because neals traps are very juicy . And i have no clue what ill trap.

 

Well it looks like someone took a few pictures that day. He posted them in our local forum and he's very good at it:



t=223104&page=1&pp=20


That mustang was actually slower than me lol



The RWD Grand Prix was there running 10.4's

 

I like that '69 Camaro.

 

There was another one similar to that, but it ran low 9s@145 mph. Over a foot under the front wheels on the launch & 1.2 60 foots. Sick.

There were more people on Saturday night though, as usual, it was packed.

 

maybe i will try my toyo ra-1 DRs again tomorrow. I think the 26X9.5X16s are hurting my times due too there size. they are taller then the 18s i had on the car.

 

What will happen if I just zip tie only the front springs and do nothing with the rear springs???

Will my 60' will still drop?

Also when the zip ties break they fall on the track?? Because my track is very very **** about leaving anything on the track. Maybe if I put more zipties then they won't break?

 

I originally had rubber studs in my rear springs on the first few runs, but they were too shallow and the passenger side ones fell out.

I pulled my best 60 foot (2.12) with nothing in the rear spring on the passenger side, only driver, so I do not think they helped.

The zip don't break if they are 175 lbs tensile strength. I put 8-9 of them on each spring and they never broke. They DO NOT lower the car, only prevent it from rising too much.

I am going back tonight. I strapped the two front springs with 2 cranking nilon straps each on the spring springs. They lowered the car about 3/4" and the wheelhop is completely gone, even on the street.

I also bought bigger rear spring blockers that do not fit unless I jack the car.

I have two new front tires also (Same thing, Yokohama Avid T4 215/60/R15). They're rated for only 120 mph but tire options suck for 15's and those are pretty f'ing good.

I don't expect anything better than 13.9's-13.7's tonight since the weather is hot & humid and there's no glue on friday nights.

Tomorrow is a big event (10 AM till midnight, two programs) and I hope to have Jime's manual fan switch mod by then, and pull 2.0 60' and 13.5's *crosses fingers*

And Tilley, come on, I wanna see what you guys pull on real street tires.

 

Goodluck! I've ridden around with the straps on my front springs for many months now and none have broken. I put about 7 or 8 zip ties on each spring. They were the biggest ones at Home Depot. I think they are 175lbs each.

My spring boosters on the rear are the largest ones I could find that would still fit. The 2" rubber boosters from Pep Boys were too large. So I put in 1 3/4" boosters that I found from Advanced Auto and they fit if you jack up the car and wedge them in there. They have not popped lose and I have taken several hard turns with them. The front of the car stays pretty flat too with the zip ties in place. The rear was raised by about 1 inch and the front stays the same.

Oh yeah, make sure you don't race with your fans on. It's a slight current draw and it will only make you slower. Just let them run while the car is off and shut them off when you're ready to race. Have fun!

 

I know they don't lower the car. But they don't allow the spring for much movement.

Here is my idea. I was thinking since when I raise the front to do an oil change and the back springs compresses because you can see the wheels go more into the tirewell. Anyway, raise the back, the front springs will compress a little and THEN zip tie them. That way the car is lower in the front and there will be even less weight transfer to the rear. What do you think???

And also what do you cut the tensile zip ties with, just regular scissors?

 

Nice scissors worked great for me. Tin snips or wire cutters will work great too.

 

Actually Aaron the ones I have for the rear springs are small, two inch by two inch squares. I place one in front and one in the back. I'll probably put 2 or 3 of the rear coils like that (there are 5 spaces between the rear coils).

 

You could do something similar, or take this a step further, with coilovers. Drop the front down, jack the rear way up, and then use the rubber inserts in rear and straps in the front. I planned on adjusting the height of my coilovers to do this on my 96 at the track but never got around to it.

 

I want to get faster times while spending less money. Next time I'm at the track I'll do Jime's DR mod, and try the zip ties.

I have way too many things to do before I do coilovers.

 

good luck JCLAW. Reading about all this zip ties and rubber stud stuff makes me appreciate my coilovers even more

 

so how about some pics JCLAW?? i wanna see this beast. i always wanted a 4th gen and w/ a swap too.. dammn! is yours a 6spd?

 

Nope. 5-speed like all the others.

I went last night and the track was complete, utter crap. I'm never returning on "street" Friday nights. 2.3 and 2.4 60 foots all night long, had to let off throttle on all my runs (4 or 5 runs). My traps indicated good power (103.68 mph) but there was just no way of putting it down.

The fastest car of the night was a Viper running 12.95 on slicks, to give you an idea of how bad the track was.

I did beat a 2004 GTO though. His pal said "we're gonna laugh" in the staging lines just before our run. Did a huge smokey burn out right before getting beaten by a 10-year old family sedan. He ran 14.4@105 to my 14.4@103 and a better R/T. That's how bad the track was. There also was an early 90's 5.0 pulling 13.8@114 mph on M/T slicks after heating 'em up real good.

Oh and on two different runs they put me against bikes running 10s and 11s. F*ckers.

On the last run I f*cked my launch even worse and missed a shift, actually lost to a newer Si Civic with a 15.08@82 mph. I decided to call it quits after that run even though there was an hour left.

Going bad today and I hope to do just as good as last Sunday. Two bracket races (10 AM to to 11 PM). Gonna be a huge program.

I didn't place the rubber studs right and they could move even with the car sitting down. I know how to place them right today.

I was told Friday nights really s*ck but I didn't fully believe it until now

 

That's 1000$ I can put elsewhere. It takes 5-minutes to set them.

What I will do is get Illuminas with 2.0 lowering springs, get M/T slicks AND put rubber studs in the rear springs.

 

Good luck at the track today! Get slicks and stop messing around!

 

Those ought to work out good

 

I am not going back to the track until I get slicks and the remapped 300zx Ecu.

I blew up the 95 Transmission last night at the track. Missed 4th and into second on the 3rd round of eliminations around 10 P.M., all the way to a 14.097@88 mph on a 14.09 dial-in and a .010 R/T. Do I have to blow up a transmission every time I get a run like that?

Basically the car wouldn't go into the 13s. It took me over half of the day to realize that the nilon straps were the reason almost all of my runs sucked. Took 'em off and went back to the same setup as last week (zip ties on the front springs).

I also had Jime manual fan switch mod running early that day. Got to the track around noon.

A few nissans joined the street class around 6-7 P.M. There was a 05 SE-R Altima among them. The run he made against be ended up being a 14.70@98 to my 14.04@103.

I decided to go conservative on the launch to be consistant. I never floored it in first. I was running consistant 14.0's at around 102-103 mph with the granny launch. I could pull a good 60 foot (2.16) and good shifting, but never on the same run. For example, my 14.01 run had a sh*tty 2.31 60 foot. If it had been the 2.16 that was a 13.70.

Anywho street tires suck. One run you pull a 2.1, and the next it's a 2.5. I pulled good reaction times all day long .0xx most of the time but I f*cked up half of my runs.

 

That sucks man. I hope the tranny rebuild/swap goes smoothly.

 

Wouldnt putting the gearbox into 2nd when supposted to be in 4th, do more harm to the engine? What did the engine rev up to?

Anyways, get her back up and running soon

 

Damn sorry to hear that Jclaw

Now it's time for an 00' or 01 tranny if you got da $$$

Jclaw are you using a short throw, if not you should it will help for faster and firmer shifts..

 

Actually I popped the hood this morning and it's the TPS that went off of my ultra-cheap bracket I made. That is why the tach was acting crazy. The motor, clutch and tranny are just fine. I am full of sh*t for not updating you guys earlier.

BTW, I have a short throw.

The street tires are coming off next time.

And so is the 1995 Ecu, it will be replaced by a remapped 300zx ecu (if those f*ckers can deliver it already. 2 day shipping my @ss).

I'll skip next weekend. Saturday June 18th is the biggest import event of the year (Called 'Car Fever 6' since it's been running since 1999). I hope to be consistant in the bracket racing. Guys in the all motor class seem to be running low 13s/high 12s 105/106 mph, so you never know, I might be competitive

 

300Zx ecu will never work.....

 

Sure it won't.

I'll post the dynos. And if it doesn't work, I will bow down to your supreme knowledge.

 

I second that. It doesnt even run the same sensors. I even talked to jim wolf himself and he agreed.

 

You guys agree not to edit your posts and keep them up for the next 2 weeks, right? Mine stay how they are. I will have the dyno runfiles and, hopefully, timeslips.

 

I put a 92 NA Auto 300zx ECU (with ZEMulator) in my car and it ran 90% functional (little idling issues) with some soldering. I had to put a couple jumpers wire and one resistor to fool the ECU. There are only a few sensors (fuel temp sensor, dual o2 sensors, and heated o2 sensor) that are different between the VE and the z32. The harness is identical!

But, I don't think the harness is identical to the 4th gen. Is it? Please let us know what you know. B/c if this works, you can get a ZEMulator in your car tomorrow! Are you talking z31 or z32?

Here is a diagram that compares the z32 TT ECU to the VE30DE ECU:

 

The ECU is from a 1990 300zx (auto). It will be completely remapped.

 

Is the connector identical? Or do you have to swap the harness connector?

BTW, who is doing the remapping for you?

 

A nissan tuner. A harness adaptor has to be made.

He will take the MAF signal from my 95 ecu when I give him the 300zx ecu. He has done many OBDII-->OBDI conversions.

 

That's awesome! Quick question,... why are you using a 300zx ECU? Why do you want to convert to OBDI? Is he going to give you more aggressive timing and fuel maps? Or are you going to burn your own programs on the EPROM?

Are you remotely insterested in the using the ZEMulator tuning system?

 

no need to post dynos i will settle for some pictures of your car some pics of your time slips....

 

He will tune it for me. Since VQ35's run FAR more timing than VQ30's, the gains should be significant. I am going with a 300zx ECU because it is the easiest to tune as far as Nissans go, and it is OBDI. I don't need OBDII technically since my car is a 1995.

 

First off, why would you want to see pictures of my car? It's a black 95 SE that looks exactly like every other black 95 SE. It looks bone stock, right down to the stock sawblades, all-season tires, unshaven trunk and stock 4x4 suspension. The only difference is that it has unpained front fenders (flat black instead of the original paint) and it has a 99 bumper with an aluminum grill and clear bumper lights but I kept the 95 grill with the nissan burger.

Second, I would post pics of my timeslips if I could get my scanner to work, but it's uninstalled and I can't find the original CD. I can take pics of it with my webcam, but unless you've got major pointers on how to make it clear, you won't see sh*t.

 

You can now add a busted front bumper, busted clear bumper light and bumper reinforcement to the description. The last few days are really far up my @ss. This is getting ridiculous.