Advice on using slicks
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Advice on using slicks
That's right. I'm a complete newbie about this. I just bought two 23x8x15 M&H slicks and will be picking them up tomorrow for the Saturday race.
Right now I am finishing in 4th gear around 5000-5200 rpms on 25.2" street tires so I hope the 23" slicks will put me over 6k through the traps.
Also I have heard that slicks lower your trap speeds, but I have absolutely no clue as to why. For insistance, I launch it right off the 1400-1500 rpm idle and don't floor it in first gear to avoid wheelspin/wheelhop, and I finish early on in 4th gear with the street tires.
With slicks I could launch it at 3-4k and floor it completely, plus I would finish right around peak Power in 4th gear, so why would my trap speed be lower? I mean, I would get out of the first 60 foot at a higher speed, and my gearing would be shorter. All points to a higher trap speed, right?
As for launching, do you guys recommend doing a straight dump (low rpms though, probably 3000-3500 rpm) since I have the clutchnet 6-puck? Slipping a ceramic disk is bad.
Right now I am finishing in 4th gear around 5000-5200 rpms on 25.2" street tires so I hope the 23" slicks will put me over 6k through the traps.
Also I have heard that slicks lower your trap speeds, but I have absolutely no clue as to why. For insistance, I launch it right off the 1400-1500 rpm idle and don't floor it in first gear to avoid wheelspin/wheelhop, and I finish early on in 4th gear with the street tires.
With slicks I could launch it at 3-4k and floor it completely, plus I would finish right around peak Power in 4th gear, so why would my trap speed be lower? I mean, I would get out of the first 60 foot at a higher speed, and my gearing would be shorter. All points to a higher trap speed, right?
As for launching, do you guys recommend doing a straight dump (low rpms though, probably 3000-3500 rpm) since I have the clutchnet 6-puck? Slipping a ceramic disk is bad.
Because they have more rolling resistance. I've only found them to lower my trap speeds if I set my tire pressure too low, like lower than 11psi, and they hurt my times at that low of psi so I never run them that low. I usually am around 12.5psi. They didn't lower my traps any at that psi or higher, but then again the slicks and millenia wheels are pretty light even compared to my SSR comps and T1-S, so the weight might be offsetting the rolling resistance. Don't worry about it unless you are more concerned with racing for trap speeds and not ET.
Given that are changing your gearing so severely who knows what it will do to your traps. Cartest could tell though but I don't have time to run any sims right now I've gotta head out.
Start out at 3k and see what happens. I think you are going to find that 3k is pretty pitiful though. I did. First time I ran slicks I tried 3k, got like a 2.1, second time tried 4k and got like a 2.0. Third time I tried 5k and got a 1.9 and then I tried 6k and that was more than my clutch could handle. I overheated and wouldnt have been able to launch again for another few hours, but that was the end of the race day anyways so it didn't matter. Start low and ramp it up until you find what your car, or yourself, can take.
Given that are changing your gearing so severely who knows what it will do to your traps. Cartest could tell though but I don't have time to run any sims right now I've gotta head out.
Start out at 3k and see what happens. I think you are going to find that 3k is pretty pitiful though. I did. First time I ran slicks I tried 3k, got like a 2.1, second time tried 4k and got like a 2.0. Third time I tried 5k and got a 1.9 and then I tried 6k and that was more than my clutch could handle. I overheated and wouldnt have been able to launch again for another few hours, but that was the end of the race day anyways so it didn't matter. Start low and ramp it up until you find what your car, or yourself, can take.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
M&H, check their website. They are slightly cheaper than MT's, and that is what Mardi uses for his 1.7 60 foots
Neal: You did a straight dump because the OEM didn't grab hard, right? The clutchnet grabs like a **** but at the same time I am reluctant to slip it
Neal: You did a straight dump because the OEM didn't grab hard, right? The clutchnet grabs like a **** but at the same time I am reluctant to slip it
Yeah I just dumped it (not side step, but released it as quickly as I could without sidestepping). I don't know how they, or your transmission, will react to that technique with the CN 6puck I haven't had the opportunity to try yet. I know with the grabbiness of that clutch and the power I'm putting down I'm going to be more careful at first, and then see what I think is appropriate.
Does that clutch have a sprung hub? If it doesn't, I would be very careful about shocking the driveline. Let the clutch out fast, but don't side step it. Start low, work your way up higher in rpms until you feel comfortable.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,433
From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Yeah it's a 6-puck (Ceramic disk) sprung hub clutch. Grabs hard enough to make me look like a novice manual driver 
Because it is sprung hub, I heard it catches "gradually" which reduces the drivetrain shock significantly (which I guess is why Mardi can drop the clutch from 7000, but he has a built trans).

Because it is sprung hub, I heard it catches "gradually" which reduces the drivetrain shock significantly (which I guess is why Mardi can drop the clutch from 7000, but he has a built trans).
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