Last time I did the 1/4 my car was completely stock.
I ran that sucker at LEAST 15 times over and over and over
Best I got was 15.7 but I can't find the slip. My car was full of slips and I lost a bunch of them. The best one I still have from that day is as follows.
r/t: .534
60: 2.374
330: 6.701
1/8: 10.250
MPH:69.29
1000: 13.313
1/4: 15.893
MPH: 87.55
Very disapointed. But it was my first time and I had a FULL TANK and didnt do any weight reduction. Also I had 34 PSI in all 4 tires.


Well since that run I got a UR UDP, Fidenza flywheel, stage 4 clutch, and a weapon R Intake.
I went to the track last Friday with 1/8 tank of gas, no spare/jack in the trunk, and 24 psi in the front 45 psi in the back. I was hoping to get low 15's

I got 1 run in and I have to say. It makes no sence to me.
r/t: .664
60: 2.394
330: 6.759
1/8: 10.353
MPH: 68.03
1000: 13.460
1/4: 16.084
MPH 86.63
what gives? yea I had a lot of wheel hop off the line and I did a crappy launch.. but I got the same 60' as when I was bone stock. Ok lets even say the UDP is horse$hit and doesn't do anything. Even the flywheel. I still had a much better clutch + I am estimating I shaved 150 lbs by having 1/8 tank of gas and no spare/jack compared to when I went the first time with a totally full tank.

The first time I went it was also hotter out then the second time. I remember sweating like a b@stard. Any suggestions/feedback?
I am kinda pissed at my car right now and having second thoughts about modding it further.

Well given the info you posted I'd say there was something wrong with your car back then, and there is still something wrong with your car now and it's likely gotten worse. With your mods you should be trapping at least 92mph. I'd say you were severely down on power then, and even moreso now. I'd start by checking the ecu for codes specifically the KS code.

I get really good gas milage though. How do I go about checking for codes and stuff?

........and I think Island is a good track. That's where I ran my fastest stock time.

how many miles on your car? I would recommend also checking the KS...

And when you change the KS, make sure you change the harness at the same time.

hmm....i didnt change my harness....if its not messed up no need to change rite??

Currently 96,000 miles. My CEL is not on. Is it possible there are still codes to be retreived? And where could I get these codes retrieved at?

The knock sensor code does not cause the CEL to come on. You can get them yourself with a screwdriver.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931

Thanks a ton Nealoc. I will try this when I get home from work today.
Is replacing the knock sensor something I can do at home? And would Advance Auto Parts be able to supply me with one?

Why did you go with a Stage 4 clutch, if I may ask?

Hmmm.... Just a wild guess..... but Stage 4 clutch with a Super Light Flywheel and A light UR UDP doesn't sound like the best combination to me..... according to my research....... (puts on thinking cap.....)

Sure your vehicle speeds up faster when you're on the gas cause it has lighter weight to pull around. But think about the instances when you're off the gas.

I'm not really sure where I'm going with this but someone has told me something about the engine not spinning fast enough after the shift due to a loss of inertia after you step on the clutch. You then let go of the clutch w/ the engine moving slower than the speed you are actually going thus slowing your vehicle......

Something like that.... Does anyone know what I'm talking about or do I just sound crazy. I remember someone here on the org telling me that the UDP w/ a light fly actually gave him a worst 1/4 mile than before when he had just the fly.

Because I plan to turbo + juice my car over the winter.

your horrible time basically comes from the parts that you installed and having to get used to them like the pulley and flywheel combination. adding those basically will have you learning the clutch again. and you have to get use to launching with the lighter counter parts or you will bogg or spin like you did and with the addition of a stage four clutch ? you could've went three or even 2 depending on the power you plan on putting out from the future turbo. and the pulley is horse sh*t until your boosted then you will probably see more gains out of it. but if you think its not the driver and its the car then check the ecu for codes. clear them and do a quick maintaince of the fuel filter, spark plugs, clean the injectors with the fuel system cleaner,even though the gas went up keep using premium gas. if your are not then upgrade. were you shifting at the same rpms as before? just throwing out some things for you to think about.

I pulled codes and got the knock sensor one. Got a new sensor at Advance auto parts for 170$ and just put it on today.

Checked for codes after I got the new knock sensor on (had my buddy do it he is about 3'6" tall so he was the perfect man for the job. Total process took 10 minutes) and got 05-05 code, I was like #%* what did I fu#$ up now. Just checked and that code means no failures WOOOHOOO .

And I bought the stage 4 / flywheel / UDP all from the same guy on these forums. He gave me a good deal on all 3 things. I told him what I planned to do with the max and he suggested a stage 4. They were all the same price so I figured what the heck. After it broke in it actually isn't too bad. It took a little getting used to but it doesn't enguage bad at all as long as I shift at the correct RPM and stuff passengers in my car say it feels like an automatic its so smooth.

Check out the Jime's recent post about the difference a bad knock sensor makes in the quater mile. You should get much better times next time around. Good luck!

Ya. Heres link to results at the 1/4 with a new Knock Sensor. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=1#post4294011