Was at the track last weekend and tried a few runs with the KS disconnected. Car went from a 13.8 to a 15.1 consistently. I monitored the timing to see what was happening and it dropped from an average of 17 down to 6 with it disconnected.

The good part was that the car is more consistent at 6 deg so I ran the eliminations that way. Didn't win but it wasn't the cars fault.

I also tried the 470k resistor and it still stayed at 6 deg so I am going to try playing with that and see if I can't come up with a resistor that will duplicate a working KS.

I know SteVTEC has done a bunch of testing and I have read his results but for some reason the 470k resistor doesn't work on my 2k2. I plan on doing some more messing until I get a resistor that will work in it as well.

This may be a way to effectively alter the timing between approx 6 and 17 if I can find the correct resistance to emulate the KS. Although this wouldn't have any purpose for most people I am trying to find ways to make the car more consistent for bracket racing so power is not an issue.

Anyway SteVTEC has indicated that the amount of power loss is considerable and I just wanted to show the difference in 1/4 times for me.

PS My project for next year is going to be my old 95 GXE, plan on doing a 3.5 swap within the next month or two. Thanks to JClaw for putting the bug in my ear and Tilley if I can get him to do the cams for me.

 

Bypassing the KS while running the car hard is not a very good idea, especially if you advance the timing alot on the 3.5 with the EU once you get the swap done (you will not see the full advantages of the swap until you get the car tuned, none of us have tuned ours yet, because of the lack of options).

I heard that the 4th gen KS is better. So when you do your swap you could run the 3.0 KS on the 3.5 like I am running. There is usually only around .05 difference between my runs when the track is sticky, and that is with a 5-speed.

 

This is just for the rest of this year with the 2k2. Don't worry I won't run the car hard with it bypassed and some timing advance thats a recipe for disastor all right. Have to get the emanage working before that will happen anyway.

I wish someone with a 3.5 swap would check their timing just to see what it is with the 3.0 ecu vs the 3.5 ecu. The max mine hits at WOT is 17 and pretty well stays there throughout the 1/4.

Ya I have a new spare 3.5 KS as well as a 3.0 so will check the exact timing to see the difference.

 

Back when I was NA I ran at the track with the resistor in place and with the knock sensor connected and ran about the same times.

 

very interesting

 

I am too lazy to change out the knock sensor, I have been running a resistor for over a year and it works great. Just be careful when it is hot running all that timing advance and running the engine hard. I checked out the resistor on the dyno of one of veetec's maximas a while ago, and I think he picked up 2whp and tq from the resistor vs. the KS on a stock engine.

 

The resistor may work on a 4th Gen ECU but it sure doesn't work on a 2k2 and I have tried a few higher and lower than the 470k.

However I will try a few more.

 

I just read the timing on a 2k2 vs mine with jwt ecu and i couldnt believe how low the 2k2 timing was .it would drop to -6 sometimes with stab of the throttle.Ive never seen below 0.

I know it was limited testing all in neutral but from what i saw with jwt ecu my timing was better than stock 2k2. maybe next week ill put a stock ecu and test the 2k2 vs that.

 

Pretty hard to tell just in neutral, mine is all over the place with and without the sensor plugged in.

Try it at WOT in gear and it should steady out except when shifting.

I did find out last night that you cannot switch the KS in and out. The engine has to be shut off for a few seconds and restarted before the computer will adjust the timing up or down depending of if its connected or not.

So my idea of a switch is a bust at least for launch control.

 

Would disconnecting the Knock Sensor be the same(or similar) as having a bad Knock Sensor?

 

Yes, it would.

One question I have is whether or not the ecu uses knock sensor information when in open loop mode at WOT. I have heard that it does not, and instead uses ignition timing mapping dependent only on airflow and rpm.

But your experience, Jime, indicates that, at least for a 2k2 with a disconnected KS, there is an effect on WOT timing. Have you noticed any differences in timing from one run to the next when your KS is connected and functioning properly?

 

The ecu definately uses the ks info in open look at WOT on the 2k2. Haven't tried the 95 yet but I will be soon. I do know the resistor works on my 95 though because I did try that out a year or two ago.

Connected and functioning properly I do get variations in runs but very little and nothing I could pin on the timing. I monitor it and its just sits basically around 17 and doesn't budge.

Also I still haven't found a resistance that will emulate a working KS either and I have tried a few more. Going to measure the voltage and see what it is while running and then go from there.

 

Have you measured the resistance of the 2K2 knock sensor?

 

The 2k2 FSM says the knock sensor resistance should be 500-620 kohms. I would have thought that 470 kohms would have worked, but maybe you should try something around 550 kohms.

 

Tried everything from 300k to 900k so far and no go. There must be something different about the 2k2 ecu. Really doesn't matter anymore for me because I wanted to use it to take off easily and then have the timing come on but it won't do that regardless so I am hoping the Emanage Ultimate will eventually do it for me.

 

Yep, I have the dyno somehwere.


I ran the same car two weeks later though, with different gas, and it dynoe'd a full 10 hp higher, with the KS hooked up, on the first run.

On the next two runs the KS went bad, knocked the power off by 26+ hp!

 

one of my friends has a 96 max.....his knock sensor was bad and still managed to run a 9.7 in the 8th.....guess it ddint really affect his car....weird huh..

 

you should see the diffrance they make on a dyno. Cut my horse power in
the upper rpms by about 35 horsepower. (IM BOOSTED)