JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Looking at buying a set of 225/50/15 BFG DR's for both street and track use (I know they won't last long, but I only put around 8,000-9,000 miles a year on the car and pretty much never drive in the rain, fog or winter. Always dry conditions from April to mid November). I'd rather buy two sets of DR's a year than getting slicks AND street tires. I noticed tirerack has them for 114$ each, which is a pretty good price.

My two front tires are almost gone. I think they are surprisingly sticky for what they are, last weekend I did a best of 2.020 on them. I'd think 1.99 is possible, which is good enough for a street tire, but the real problem is that they are simply not consistant enough. Like Jime, I do a lot of bracket racing, and a consistant 60' is what I need. I would launch them right off idle (no clutch dump) just like my street tires, but hopefully they'd be much more consistant.

I've heard of several 1.8 60' on FWD cars with that specific DR size, and a whole bunch of 1.9's. If I can be consistant around 1.95, instead of 2.10 for streets, I'd be very happy. What do you guys think? Worth it? I know Krismax rides on them all the time.

Both my slicks and street tires are gone, so I think I should merge the application into one, and while I certainly don't expect 1.7 60 foots like on slicks, I'm secretely hoping for some high 1.8's (like 1.88-1.90 or so). What have you guys managed on DR's?

One more thing: Do DR's have the same 2nd 1/8th mile rolling resistance loss than slicks? Slicks slow you down somewhat after the 1/8th mile mark, at least that's what I've noticed (more rolling resistance than street tires).

Dave B

Too bad you live in Quebec because I'd sell you my 225/50R15 BFG DRs mounted on 15" Millenia rims (11lbs). The DRs have a total of 8 passes on them. You can even still see the mold nubs on the tread

Jime

iTrader: (10)

My best is a 1.94 with the auto but thats about the best for the slicks too N/A. I am going to use mine next year running Super Street All Motor because I get a 150 lb penalty with the slicks so I don't think I will lose that much with the DR's.

I am sure you can manage a much better 60 with the 5 spd.

Still don't have my engine, should be here early next week, they only come this way when they get additional pickups and deliveries. Going to try and get Jeff at Budget to fix me up with an exhaust next week as well for the 95 the only parts that will work are the test pipe, resonator and headers from the 2k2, the rest of the b-pipe and muffler I will have to get replaced. Wanna get a Y for the test pipe to so I can uncap and see what it does.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

How much for them, shipped? I'm quite interested depending on price, I mean the lighter wheels & DR combo would be awesome to finish the rest of the year, I'll see what I get for wheels next year. Mine are stock sawblades (19 lbs) so going from 19 lbs to 11 saves me 16 pounds of upsprung weight, does anyone know how much I could gain from this?

So you think I could pull a 1.8 with 'em Jime? I launch basically the same way you do (idle).

96sleeper

iTrader: (4)

Guy I know with a 2k2 has cut a 1.92 on drag radials, but he is consistent 2.0x They are still a little tricky to launch, its not quite like slicks.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Still, I heard 5th gens are somewhat trickier to launch than 4th gens. Also, I've blocked my rear springs (reduces weight transfer) and I have traction bars, so I might still get 1.8's...

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Did you find much difference when blocking the rear springs??? I think you've done a lot with weight transfer mods ( rear blocks and tie wraps on the front) but I don't remember any number ??????

With your 60' times, you're doing something very right, but did you compare before and after?? And where did you get the blocks??

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

I don't have much done. Setup for suspension/tires:

- Stock SE springs and struts with a bunch of small Canadian Tire rubber stoppings in the rear springs. Prevents it from compressing too much on launch. I keep them on all the time, ride isn't really any harsher, very comfy.

- A whole bunch of 175 lbs home depot zip ties on the front springs, preventing it from rising too much.

- 215/60/15 Yokohama Avid T4 mounted on stock sawblades all around. Almost new in the rear and almost gone in front. At the track I set tire pressure at 42 psi rear, 23 psi front.

That's it. Cheap, ghetto setup.

Gotten very little wheelhop (and certainly not violent) since I put on the traction bars, so on any given day I usually pull a low 2.1 on the very first run. Last time 2.11 and .049 R/T on the very first run.

Best is 2.127 with nothing blocking the rears, just 4-5 zip ties per spring, and no burnout. Now I have like 10-12 zip ties per spring, rear blocks, and I do a 2 second burnout. The real advantage is that it's more consistant. Last time I went I did 2.02 but it wasn't a fluke. I also did 2.05, 2.06 (twice), 2.07, 2.08 (twice), 2.09, and a few 2.10-2.13.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Burnouts - now there's a thought.. Huummmm.... I don't as a rule, because the passenger side DR does all the spinning, and my emergency brake won't hold the car.

I bought two sets of four small rubber coil spacers at Advance Auto Parts and stuffed them into the rear Tokico springs - kinda tight , but with some wire ties to keep them in the springs, I went for a drive.

The car did raise up about an inch in the rear, but the ride is definitely better when hitting the usual potholes and cracks in the the city streets. On the highway, the car rides very well - not at all what I expected. The car just feels firmer, but there is no thump or clunk when riding down crappy city streets. Very interesting.

Have you thought about adjustable holddown straps for the front? I've seen some that look like they would fit on the front springs, and if they would, then you could tighten them down with the ratchet before racing....

I'm gonna try some JClaw and Jimi wisdom on Wednesday night at Kansas City Raceway, after I watch BJAY1 run his max at the Topeka-hosted SCCA event on that day. Wednesday will be just like christmas!

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Dave B, do you ever come to KCIR anymore.?? I thought you used to be a regular there with your Max, until you upgraded to a G35.

Kinda beside the point, but I spanked a 6-speed 350Z a week or so ago at that strip. We both ran 14.2's, but I got the guy with reaction time. Our ETs were almost identical. Lucky, I guess, since I was busy melting spark plugs that night.

If JClaw doesn't take up your offer on the DRs, I might be interested....

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

I would pull high 2.0's and low 2.1's with my 225/50/15 G-Force when I was NA

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

What would you pull on street tires compared to the DR's?

Dave B

See your PM box.

I've only been to KCIR once this year (May). I've toned down the racing simply because I don't have the time (10 month old son), money (him again), and I don't race in the heat because cars are so much slower. I plan to go back out in October and run my G in some cool crisp air. I'm hoping for 14.3s@98mph or so. This Wednesday sounds like we're going to have some decent air (70s).

Nice kill on the 350Z. When I was at KCIR in May, a couple 350Z owners couldn't believe my auto G sedan was only about .1-.2 and 1mph slower than their 6MT Zs

What's been done to your 99? Nitrous?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

"I've only been to KCIR once this year (May). I've toned down the racing simply because I don't have the time (10 month old son), money (him again), and I don't race in the heat because cars are so much slower. I plan to go back out in October and run my G in some cool crisp air. I'm hoping for 14.3s@98mph or so. This Wednesday sounds like we're going to have some decent air (70s).

Nice kill on the 350Z. When I was at KCIR in May, a couple 350Z owners couldn't believe my auto G sedan was only about .1-.2 and 1mph slower than their 6MT Zs

What's been done to your 99? Nitrous?"

Yes, I know about the raising-the-kids thing. We got our three girls through cars and colleges (K-State, Drake, and Baker), so now they are making their own way and I get to play with my car! That 350Z was humping that night, but when he lost, he left.

It takes a dual-nitrous NX system for me to keep up, and I have been leaning out so badly lately that I usually burn off the ground electrodes on two or more NGK plat/iridium plugs. Maybe the 135-degree track temp at KCIR contributed, ya think?

Jimi and JClaw gave me some advice, so I'm heading to KCIR on Wednesday and try some things. I'm hoping for mid-13's with the cooler weather, but would settle for leaving with all six ground electrodes intact.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Well, I have seen a best 2.14 on streets but normally 2.19-2.25

st0rm82

is 2.08 good with street tires?
i did a bunch from 2.1 to 2.2 also
its my 2nd time at drag and im driving a manual car since 3months ago

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Excuse me for saying this, but " I never met a Canadian I can beat ".

Great 60', and you just learned to drive a 5-spd? I feel old and slow...

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Hmm, so I guess these aren't bad 60' times for being on 235/45/17 street tires?
http://blehmco.com/pics/car/timeslip.jpg

(umm yeah, ignore the R/T... it was instant-green night. ugh)

krismax

iTrader: (15)

my best on those DR's is 2.055 and my suspension is worse than ive ever seen on any car.

people who drive behind me ask why my cars moves like a bobble head

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I have DR's on Millenia wheels too. I have only run once on them and I was cutting 2.3 60's. One thing I will add is that these tires should not be run in the rain. If you look at any reviews on them they get horrible traction in anything other than dry weather, so you may want to consider this when you throw your 'street' tires out.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

If I manage to be pretty steady in the low 2.0's and high 1.9's on the Yokohamas I might keep 'em full time and just change my suspension setup a little. The f*ckers better be consistant though.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hey JClaw, I think if you'd be running on a good set of coilover that could help you shave some numbers. Are you running on the stock motor mount ?

Cheers

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

looking at one of my slips i pulled a 2.1 with nitto dr 225-50-16

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I picked up Dave B' 225/50R15 BFG DRs mounted on 15" Millenia rims yesterday and went to the Kansas City strip - temp in the 70's, low humidity, beautiful evening. Of course they opened late and I didn't get parked until 6:30. Unloaded, changed tires, set the slicks at 20 psi and for the first pass got a 2.081 60', 1/4 13.701 at 101.56 MPH.

Lots of drama on the launch with 35-shot - tires spinning like mad and I drifted across the strip some! Hit the second 75-shot after I was into second, and off I went. The smaller-diameter DRs do act like a much lower gear ratio.

Weirdness on the second pass. I raised the DR pressures to 24 psi - the car seemed shaky on the first pass. The DRs were 2 inches shorter and I had four rubber coil spacers in the rear, so the nose of the car is sitting much lower than the rear.

The staging lights (in the right lane this time) kept seeing the front mount for the Jbars, so the staff finally got me staged OK (this is test-and-tune) but by then my concentration was blown. This was a 2.205 60' 13.836 101.74 MPH pass.

Then I did something stupid. Feeling brave ( the plugs were all normal after the first two runs) I set the second stage to 100-shot, with a fat fuel jet (normal 52/31 - set to 52/38) and after launch with a 2.255 60' something broke around the 1/8 mile mark and I sputtered through the traps at 14.389 and 87.71 MPH. Two plugs, #4 and #5, were melted off but replacing them didn't fix the bad cylinder, so I drove home 90 miles on 5 cylinders. Bummer.

Time for a new VLSD trans AND a new motor!

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Maybe you should drop the juice and replace the motor with a 3.5 You'd be about as fast.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Actually, I agree with you - I have hit the upper limit for MPH, it seems. Although I was using pump gas, not "race gas", last night..... Hummm..

It's funny - the plugs were all looking good after the last 35-shot + 75-shot pass, and even after two fried, they still looked good - just missing their ground electrodes! And part of what I assume is an exhaust valve.

I prefer the automatic, but I was going to ask Tilley to build a converted 3.5 for my '99, and then drive to his shop for the installation this winter. Now I can't drive there, so I don't know what to do...

Replacing the 3.0 with another 3.0 is the quickest solution, but not the one I want - I want the 3.5. But how to get there? Engine swaps in my garage are out, but there are good local mechanics. I'm not sure how long the 4th Gen conversion for a 3.5 would take a local shop, with Tilley's paid telephone consultation? I haven't decided what to do.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

You are lucky you have a garage, I am doing my 3.5 swap outside in the next few weeks.

JClaw got the 3.5 yesterday, looks good, even got the precats, all o2 sensors and a Power Steering pump as well. So after sunday's race I will swap with the 02 Max and then the work will really begin.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

OK, now I feel bad about my garage. At least you didn't say "I told you so..." about burning plugs.

Let me guess, you'll be running 12.8s and 115 in the 1/4 as NA!



Anyone have opinions about changing out heads as opposed to replacing the entire engine??? I found a local 98 max 3.0 with 80K for $390 bucks. Using these heads is tempting.....

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I will be the last one to say I told you so. I know what its like at the track trying to get a little bit more etc etc.

My dream is to be running 12.8 at maybe 108 or so but its hard to say I have always underestimated the potential of a Max.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

OK - I just figured out JClaw and Jimi's secret - it's that Canadian air that they so cleverly use when nobody is looking! It must be the Canadian version of the Secret Sauce manifold someone keeps to themselves....

If this is true, then exporting the Canadian air - cleverly concealed in empty nitrous bottles, or better yet, recycled hot-sauce botttles - could make your fortune - and save tons of engines south of the border!

6spd_Hayes

iTrader: (3)

I have pulled a best of 1.95 with 225/45-17 BF Goodridge G-force DR's.

That same night, this is my sequence of 60 foots:
2.053
2.079
2.047
1.952
1.969
1.960
1.961
1.990
1.993
1.994
2.090

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Well, that's consistent!

6spd, do you have any other numbers to share on some of those runs? 1/4 mile ETs and MPHs? What tire pressures do you use?

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

I bought a '98 Maxima engine with 81K for $390 - and it's twenty miles from home. I'll pick it up Saturday morning.

A question for the experienced - would it be better to swap the heads with my '99, swap the entire engine, or buy the automatic attached to the '98 engine and swap the entire package???

6spd_Hayes

iTrader: (3)

This may be data overload, but here is is:

All runs are from Huntsville (Alabama) Dragway - 1/8th Mile track
January 2, 2005 - 70 degrees F, 70% humidity
Unbelievable track prep (VHT is your friend)
All runs but 1 are in right lane
2002 SE Six Speed
All runs - running light weight (No passenger seat, back seat, bench, floor mats, spare, jack, tools, etc), 1/8th tank of 93 oct (winter blend), stock 17" SE wheels and Potenza's on rear @ 44 psi, 15.9 pound each Koenig Traffiks on front with BFGoodrich DR's @ 15psi, Cattman Y-pipe, Place Racing Cold Air Intake with Monster Filter, Tokico Adjustable set to 5 all around, Eibach Pro Springs, health burnout, avoiding water box, 3k launch, slipping clutch on launch)

Run #1
R/T 0.168
60' 2.053
330' 5.869
1/8th 8.993
MPH 79.270

Run #2
R/T 0.319
60' 2.079
330' 5.912
1/8th 9.036
MPH 79.360

Run #3
R/T 0.245
60' 2.047
330' 5.864
1/8th 9.001
MPH 79.060

Run #4
R/T .324
60' 1.952
330' 5.764
1/8th 8.886
MPH 79.430

Run #5
R/T -0.016 (red light)
60' 1.969
330' 5.756
1/8th 8.863
MPH 79.660

Run #6
R/T 0.054
60' 1.960
330' 5.725
1/8th 8.841
MPH 79.490

Run #7
R/T -0.051 (red light)
60' 1.961
330' 5.746
1/8th 8.852
MPH 79.660

Run #8
R/T 0.023
60' 1.990
330' 5.842
1/8th 8.986
MPH 78.740

Run #9
R/T -0.097 (red light)
60' 1.993
330' 5.790
1/8th 8.921
MPH 79.040

Run #10
R/T 0.156
60' 1.994
330' 5.800
1/8th 8.918
MPH 79.090

Run #11
R/T -0.036 (red light)
60' 2.090
330' 5.927
1/8th 9.050
MPH 79.370

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Pretty D*mn impressive and consistent, too. Thanks for entering all the background data - it helps understand how you got the times you did.

You don't like water-box burnouts either, I see.

Well, I guess I can't go to Canada OR Alabama and expect to win.

Thanks for your info.

Dave B

I'm convinced the air in Canada is 20% nitrous. In 'Bama, all the Maximas seem to run stellar times. Some of the quickest Maxs on the Org run in AL. It's the elevation and the prep is reportedly good too. Like I told you, KCIR is a much better track than it was 2 years ago especially the first 150', but it's 900' elevation hampers us a little. Being located in a humid river valley doesn't help things either when running at night.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

If Canada is 20% nitrous, then what the heck is Georgia running for breathable air? 50% nitrous AND 8 psi extra pressure?

You know, it would be fun to take off a month and hit several states and try out the good drag strips. All I would need is several spare 3.5 engines, a couple of transmissions, unlimited nitrous, extra tires, tools, parts, a truck to pull the trailer, a divorce, unlimited funds................ Hummm...

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

My track is at 165 ft elevation, guess that helps.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

'Originally Posted by Dave B
I'm convinced the air in Canada is 20% nitrous. "

I think that all of Canada is at 165 ft. elevation, as well. Except for the Rockies - they are at 250 ft. at the top....

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Actually there is no nitrous in the air in Canada but there is a lot of methane which could account for the good times.

PS The methane is created from all the chicken sheit we have to put up with here.