Temp. 81*F Humidity 80% 30ft above sea level.

First Run:

Ran the tires at 28psi. The tires were cold, I didn't do a burnout. I missed 2nd and 3rd this run. It was an overall horrible run.

R/T .110
60' 2.841
330 7.413
1/8 11.027
MPH 66.19
1000 14.074
1/5 16.539
MPH 91.50






Second Run:

Set the tires at 25psi, heated them up coming out of the waterbox. Dropped the clutch at around 3k rpm, and got a lot less wheelspin. My clutch was slipping into 2nd though. I granny shifted as well. The Supra next to me ran a 15.354 @91mph. I was pulling on him the whole time, he had a 2.29 60ft.

R/T .206
60' 2.424
330 6.674
1/8 10.144
MPH 71.53
1000 13.030
1/4 15.419
MPH 92.99

Mods:

VQ35
-3.0 ECU
-Nismo FPR
-K&N Popcharger
-70MM Pathfinder Throttle Body
-5spd Swap
-5th Gen Clutch Disc
-5th Gen Pressure Plate
-CustomMaxima STS
-K&N Popcharger
-XS Racing Headers
-Resonated Straight Pipe
-OBX Cat-Back
-UDP
-Custom 8awg to 2awg 8 Wire Ground Kit
-Z32TT Fuel Filter
-Platinum Tipped NGK Plugs PFR5G-11's

Handling:
-Tein Basic Coilovers
-Ingalls Camber Bolts
-Mille Miglia EVO 5 17x8
-235/45 Generals
-H&R 5MM 5:114.3 Wheel Spacers (Front)
-H&R Wheel Studs
-Energy Suspension Motor Mounts

Braking:
Custom Big Brakes Front:
-12.6" Slotted iRotors
-Fairlady Z 30mm Aluminum Calipers
-BlehmCo Brackets and Hardware
-Z32->Maxima SS Lines
-Axxis/PBR Ultimate Ceramic Pads

Brakes Rear:
-Slotted iRotors
-Axxis/PBR Ultimate Ceramic Pads


I ran full street trim, no weight reduction. I need to get used to my car, that's for sure. I shifted horribly both runs, and I'm pretty sure my clutch was slipping. I really didn't know what to expect, but I was figuring I'd land somewhere in at least the 14's. I also need a tune really badly, I'm running extremely rich, and I still haven't pulled my codes since the swap. Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

yeah youshould be running atleast mid to low 14's ,with your swap you should have ditched the stock clutch.

How are you using the xs headers did you mod the crossmember?

 

I didn't need to mod the crossmember or anything, they bolted right on. The only little bit of trouble they gave me was when I was putting the y-pipe on, it barely fits.

I'm going to pull my codes today. I'm sure I'm going to come up with a KS code, o2 sensor codes, and mabye an ECTS code. Would the ECTS not functioning properly cause my ecu to retard the timing and run rich as well? I have an a/f gauge installed on my rear o2 sensor, and it's staying at full rich. I've never even seen it budge from that position. I also need to replace my shifter bushing. That really threw off my shifting. I also only got 250 miles to that tank of gas, with those 2 passes.

 

don't go in the water if you're able to get around it. it does nothing but hurt you if you're on street tires.

why is your clutch slipping?

 

Because my motor is putting out too much tq I assume.

 

First off your car is looks mean. I'm loving the color. You should definatly at least be in the 14's. Those times look like 3.0 numbers. You should definatly get those codes checked before you go back sounds like they're hurting u pretty bad.

 

id say he should be in the 13s with a 3.5 swap.

 

I should be. I'm going to get back to the track tomorrow to see if I can improve any more.

 

I find that hard to believe. Aren't there lots of guys running stock clutches with basic bolt on 3.5 swaps? Does your clutch slip in 5th gear when you just punch it from like 50mph?

 

Something is seriously wrong, even with that 60' you should be much faster and quicker. Get those sensors fixed and try again!

 

As far as I know I'm the only one running the 5th gen clutch. Everyone else is running at least a stage 1 clutch.

And no, it doesn't do that. For now I'm going to attribute my runs to poor driving. I just got this thing finished a few weeks ago, and I'm not used to it at all yet.

 

Hmm well it could be the clutch I suppose but cars with your mods are only putting down what, 220ft-lb? that's not enough to overpower a stock clutch, 4th gen or 5th gen, unless it's worn out OR out of adjustment.

 

These swaps are easily putting out 260+ lb-ft at the crank.

 

I thought it'd be obvious that I meant at the wheel...

 

Doesn't matter. Point is the 5G clutch can't handle it.

 

There have been quite a few guys putting down that sort of torque on stock clutches - supercharged guys and heck, even dandymax is within 10 ft-lb of it and he can launch his car at 6900rpm on slicks with a two step without the clutch slipping. Point is, I don't believe that 220 ft-lb at the wheel is enough to overpower the clutch based on that. - unless the clutch is in less than optimal shape already or not adjusted correctly.

People severely underestimate the difference having a properly adjusted clutch can make. I'd look into that first if I were GoalieKeg, if that's not it then he can take other steps. The first thing we ask at the shop when someone says "my clutch is slipping" is "have you tried adjusting the engagement of it?" It solves the problem more often than not.

Furthermore, he's not making anywhere near what he "should be" anyhow if he's only trapping 92mph - but that is a whole new, unrelated can of worms.

 

Well nismo3112 used an exedy OEM replacement clutch and it was slipping like mad after a month. Then goalie uses a stock clutch and it slips. There's no evidence supporting the OEM 5th gen clutch or OEM replacement at this point.

And where did the 22x WTQ figure come from? Just wondering cus the LOWEST 3.5 torque dyno number that i've seen was in the mid-230's (tilley).

 

You must just like to argue. One the point Neal is trying to make is that the clutch May not be slipping, yet your concerned with this 220wtq number he said. So it goes something like this, when you press the clutch pedal you move fluid through the hydraulic lines to the slave cylinder, the slave piston then converts the hydraulic force into a mechanical force. The piston then pushes on the fork holding the TOB, the TOB then pushes on the fingers of the diaphram, and the friction material IF properly aligned will grab and hold on the flywheel.

As for an example he gave you dandymax, who apparently is using a stock clutch and launching at 6900 rpm on slicks... It should hold.

 

The problem isnt bad clutch or adjustment... its not broken in yet! Goalikeg I told j00 so! 5 lashes! j/k lol

You jumped the gun on this one. I dont care what you say, your clutch isnt broken in and you just proved it. And what are you doing at the track if you still havent gotten used to it yet? RELAX my friend! Take your time with it.

And yes if there is a code for ECTS, the ECU goes into open loop (rich, in your case, UBBER rich). And its really bad. with my motor I got a 92.37 best trap, so for you to be doing 92.99, you got to work out the bugs in there. Come of the SW, and we'll have you leave with ubber power meng

 

ok i have a question . i dont understand how these alty headers bolted right up for you i bought a set and the crossmember was very in the way.

can you post a link on the onbes you bought thanks

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...spagenameZWDVW


I didn't buy alty headers. These are the SS Auto Chrome ones.

 

That was a seperate and unrelated question that has nothing to do with the slipping clutch.
You serious??? I had no idea...
95blkmax might be right. I don't think he let it break in properly because he just finished the swap not too long ago.

 

I think I just need to learn how to drive.

 

Lemme try

 

I got the 220 number from my head as an educated guess... I don't pay much attention to the 3.5 swap threads so I don't know exact numbers like I do for most of the turbo cars and like I do for track numbers.

Like wunfast said I was proposing a solution to his problem that doesn't include the POSSIBLY unneccessary replacement of a clutch. If it's not out of adjustment then he can go from there to something else - like making sure his clutch is broken in lol